How to Install a DRO 5 - Installing the Y Axis Scale
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- čas přidán 31. 03. 2019
- Shars.com approached me about making some videos showing the installation of one of their Sino Digital Readouts (DRO). In this installment I'll be putting the Y axis scale on the machine and discussing some of the quirks of this particular scale installation. I'll be making separate videos showing the installation of the various components so it is easy to reference back to each part. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below. Thanks for watching!
Stuart: Congratulations on this DRO series, it's great. Think your audio, your cadence, and your voice quality are excellent. And, your overall step by step presentation is excellent. SHARS you did good.
Excellent series Beautiful work!!
Imagine you have a 400mm scale, and it's off by 1mm (.040") in both directions - the measure will be over the entire course of the travel sqrt(400*400+1+1) = 400.002 - You would be 2 micron, less than 1 tenth imperial off. I might be wrong of course but I think this entire effort of alignment is futile. I think that 0.3mm or around .012" should be the target just to prevent stresses on the reader assembly from the axis travel.
This has been very informative, I am thinking of buying a Sino for my Busy Bee mill. The previous videos for great too and I'll watch the next.
Good series. Thanks for the information.
I've seen the internals on these type scales/readheads. They are a floating carriage, with a reader that has bearings/wheels that hold it in place in relation to the glass. Which tells me, so much accuracy isn't really needed. I think. But I too would want to set it as precise as I can. For the Y axis, I used the 3/8-16 holes already tapped on the knee casting to fasten a bracket with grub screws top and bottom next to all mounting screws. That eliminates the trial and error with shims, and all your adjustments are from the front.
Very nice series. Been a big help to me
Good vid, Stuart, and I thank you for posting this and all your vids. For uneven surfaces found on a lot of machinery I've been using spherical, or leveling, washers. Helps when you have a slight angle to deal with. Keep up the great work.
When using shiims at two points, run a piece of paper betweeen the scale and the machine surface to see if there are any high spots twisting it. If so, shim both sides up (or do unmentionable with an angle grinder).
Im doing the exact same mounting having seen this. It actually would mount up the other way easier in my case but I don't want chips getting in the scale so I'll be making a pretty substantial bracket like yours. Very helpful to watch thank you
Good luck with it. Let me know if you need any help.
Thank you for your time and effort for those of us that don't know it all
thanks so much, my readout is 007 when dti is 004, hell I never knew abt this, originally I glued with sika 11fc a 32x32 alu shs to the lathe on the y, 1metre long, I just clocked it, amazing perfect, ah well it is a quality toolroom lathe from 1978 Cazaneuve 575 x 2m, the scale was not available in 2m, but my work is close to chuck, then clocked the height o the scale 050 out, got it close now the readout is same as on the clockdial , MERCI mon ami
Good work! Very informative and edited. Keep it up.
Your bracket is probably bowed out because the surfaces of the stand-offs are not co-planer. You could bolt a 1-2-3 block to the top of each stand-off and indicate them horizontally and vertically. The stand off will need to be slightly wedge shaped or you will need a wedge shaped shim.
Hi folks. I guess that if you have a surface plate, or even the top of the mill table you can check the extrusions for straightness before you start. BobUK.
Hello. I find this video series very interesting, just what I need. Is there any reason why you adjust bracket and scale with shims instead of set screws?
Shims are simple, give a more stable base (not likely to rock around on a small point of contact), and are unlikely to shift under vibration.
@@StuartdeHaro Stuart, I think Darko might be pointing at something like this. czcams.com/video/e1vSp-Ztbwo/video.html
John here has 4 little grub adjustable grub screws. It's a pretty clever method to anchor and adjust the mount. ;-)
Hello Stuy, if the axis scale are too long, can they be cut and shortened? I ordered them on eBay for my Sieg SX2LF mini milling machine, but they arrived over a length of 500 mm instead of the ordered length of 400 mm travel length. Let me know, thanks. 🙂👍
Hi Mick. I'm not really sure on that one. I have worked on machines that have scales that are longer than the table though. The scale was just mounted to an adapter plate which was mounted to the table. As long as the scale doesn't interfere with the handles it isn't going to hurt anything. If you email me directly I can send you send pics of a machine here at work that is like that. My email is on the About tab on my channel page.
If the holes on the scale were the same as the holes on the knee casting why not just make stud stand offs? All put $ on it that they are machined a lot closer in tolerance then any extruded aluminum. If needed u could still shim and adjust vertical since the holes in the bracket are slotted. Just saying
The holes in this scale were not the same as the holes in the knee, so I had to drill new ones.
Hmm . They lined up on mine . I guess that's China for ya
Main Mr ramcharan pal milling operator and surface grinder tool room department holder language Hindi ok