Removing broken bolts
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- čas přidán 27. 11. 2018
- In this video I go through removing broken bolts. This involves using a variety of extraction tools, welding a nut, using vice grips etc.
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Once again, you confirm my thinking to be correct. Your videos have been a fantastic help to me for years. Thank you, Stu.
My brother thank you soo much ,you are a professional, teacher ,you help me alot to remove in broken screw in my motorcycle
I would agree with Matthew Moses, left hand drill bits are a needed to tool for bolt extraction. They will keep the bolt from getting tighter while drilling, but sometimes will actually start removing the bolt while drilling.
My specialty for 15 years working as a fitter/machinist repairing broken screws and bolts brought to me by electricians (the best to work on usually had an easyout broken off in them or a drill or even better both). Left hand drill sets are very handy to have. Blue pivot steel makes an excellent centre punch for smaller screws or where they are broken off too deep to get a centre punch into. Giving the screw a few solid hits with a flat punch first as well as heat and penetrene will give you a good head start. Helicoils and Twinsert Helicoils can be a Godsend ;) Last resort was the EDM Tap Buster.... handy if you can afford a $2000 machine. Thanks again for the great video Stu!
I wish you hadn't posted this Matthew, now I really want an EDM Tap Buster. ;) I had never heard of those before and they sound really interesting. Good tip about the blue pivot steel too. I'm tempted to order a few different diameters to keep in the workshop as I can think of lots of uses for them once you had some on hand.
Matthew I agree with the left hand drill bits, and added an expanded comment on the subject.
Is there anything you recommend to drill straight and centered as someone who deals with broken bolt for a living? The video mentions drill guide but not sure if still can mess things up with that.
So many thanks for your videos Stu. You have filled in the blanks of many of my marine questions.
You're welcome mate, glad you like them.
Awesome video and tips Stu. Sooner or later, everyone gets a broken bolt surprise. These tools and tips can get you out of trouble and save the day!
Thanks Jack! :)
Brilliant video - thanks for taking the time to make it. And what a surprise to see it being made by Dangar marine. Love the Hawkesbury. Lived on the river 30 years ago. Really miss it.
Glad you enjoyed it. :)
Great videos Stu, thank you, I’m still learning from you at 46yrs old. I’m new to Marine work. However, I do prefer using a stud extraction tool instead of vice grips on protruding bolts, but I guess that’s because I have the tool 😆. Salty winter roads in the UK mean lots of broken bolts to practice on. Now I’m living just down the road in Sydney it’s much more pleasant. Your videos are brilliant help with my new project fishing tinny, especially as it has an ‘86 25hp Johnson on it. Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying the vids. I do have a set of set of stud removal tools too but I can never find them! :)
4:02 Your video did help so i had use tongue and groove plier in tight spot on motorized bike get broken bolt out of clutch plate.
Saving DIY guys one vid at a time!!Thanks again Stew:)
Thanks Mike!
I love the old Mercury cowl shop decoration.
Great video. I've found it use full to weld a flat washer on a flush broken bolt then weld a nut to the washer to extract a broken bolt.
Sounds like a good addition.
I have found that if you suspect that the bolt is rusted in,give the head of the bolt a solid whack or two with a hammer before trying to undo it,you may have to tap the socket or spanner onto but i find that they come out fairly easy.
If they dont repeat till it does.😁
I learned the hard way to never use an "Easy out" in very cold weather (below about 40 deg farenheit) Did it twice, and both times the easy out snapped off in the bolt and I ended up drilling around the bolt and repairing the threads with helicoil. Maybe I had cheap easy outs, but twice bitten quad shy...
Howdy Stu; life is keeping me busy so I'm watching your videos backwards to catchup. Yes bolts and nuts can be stubborn to remove. I tend to over tighten bolts, ya gotta have a feel for tightening just right. Thanks for another well crafted video my Friend. Hope Eddie is well. See ya on the next video and past videos, maybe one or two back.
Hey Angello, it is easy to over tighten bolts. I think most people are worried about them coming undone and tend to over do it. Time for a torque wrench on your Christmas wish list! ;)
Hi Stu, here's a tip or two...
Instead of working with those easy-outs that always breaks and are a hustle, you could always drill a hole in the bolt and tap a torx-bit into it, then just screw the bolt out. Many times works much better in my opinion!
Another thing you can do if you have a steel bolt (stainless or regular) in an aluminium-housing / thread is to drill out as much as possible of the bolt and then drop a certain acid on / into that hole. Aluminium creates aluminium-oxide which protects it but at the same time the bolt is slowly vanishing...
Did that with great success in the early 90s on an OMC 70hp where two out of six M8 bolts connecting the power-head had snapped and refused to come out. It took maybe two days for the acid to clear the threads completely but the result where great!
Can't remember 100% what acid it was. At the time I went to the local university and asked a chemist-teacher (who where so happy that someone even noticed him). Got a small glass-tube, maybe 50ml(?) for free. Can't find the tube any longer but I guess now days the answer is just a couple of google-clicks away..
Hey Hendrik, your torx-bit suggestion is very similar to that kit in the blue box. I found those to be quite good. I like the idea with the acid, makes a lot of sense to make use of the two different properties of the metals.
Glad you liked the acid-method, try it sometime! It takes a while (days) and you'll have to dry out old (used) acid + drip some fresh into the bolt a couple of times but it actually works = as long as you're not i a hurry...
Yes those easy-outs... The ones that you screw actually expands the bolt as the go in which sometimes counteracts with what you want.. They also have a tendency to snap as they get stuck when they reach the diameter of the hole (if the bolt does not want to let go). Where as a torx-bit or similar rather starts slipping (damages the drilled hole) = let you have another go with one of a larger diameter...
Keep up the good work, really enjoy watching your videos!
@@DangarMarine you should make a video on removing stripped manual release valves on the Yamaha 4 stroke trim units. Very common since it's a flat screwdriver and soft aluminum. And there's no such videos on that
Great video ..I have used high tensile grade 1/4 box ground to a taper to remove tough bolts before again great video thank you
Thanks Scott.
Correct! 10/10
Another sweet video Stu. Great timing actually as I need to get some busted exhaust manifold bolts out from the heads of my 6.0L L98 in the Caprice. Nice little refresher video cheers 👍🏻
Thanks Tom. In your case I would be using a lot of heat. I hope they aren't too awkward to get to! Being on the bench certainly makes things much easier!
Yes, very awkward access in the car. I'll be takin the heads off to do it as I want to do the hydraulic lifters at the same time. We were up your way this morning for a run up to bar island and then onto spencer, got the boat on the trailer just as the wind was picking up. Was a beautiful morning though!
Champion 👍🏼
good stuff
If the head is aluminum, building up a bead on the bolt will work down to about 4 mil or so below flush with the surface, before you weld the nut on... we do this often, and it works like a charm.
Although aluminum melts at a lower temp than steel, it also acts as a heat sink, and if you weld the bolt a little bit at a time (waiting for the heat to dissipate), it usually doesn't harm the aluminum block.(it also weakens the bond from the corrosion on the threads... the expansion/contraction from the heat/cooling cycle helps too)
One more tip that I learned in Machine Shops many years ago - a 50/50 mixture of ATF and Acetone makes an amazing penetrant... but be sure and degrease it thoroughly before welding a nut onto it.
It works!
The 50/50 acetone ATF mix has been mentioned several times and definitely something I'll be experimenting with in the removing corroded bolts video.
You can get the easy out out by hitting it with a stick welder get a arc with the rod loose in the holder,just pull the holder off killing the power,riggle it gently and turn to back it out (once its cooled).
For a tap i get a old drill bit about the same size as the hole,cut a slot through the middle of the shaft and keep making the slot bigger until it slides into the waste shutes of the tap(dont make them to long or they wont be strong enough just long enough to get good purchase on the tap),put a drill on the other end of the drill bit and reverse it out.
Doesnt always work but if you have run out of options it worth a try.
Brilliant boy ! Iike it all way from Goa, India.....
Ah, love Goa. Spent some nice time living up in Saligao.
oh the fun of broken bolts!!!! left hand drill bits are great for ones that aren't stuck too bad. drilling through a bolt will help relieve the suction if the easy out doesnt plug it off. i've had my best luck on stubborn ones drilling through and using a four-sided remover. ive found that the steel bolts in aluminum are usually plated gold or silver. if ANY of the plating is gone or there is any rust or corrosion replace it- never wire wheel it to clean it up- unless you specifically plan on using it to build a reef
Interesting point about cleaning up with a wire wheel potentially taking any coating off. Definitely something to be aware of.
plated gold or silver i meant in color lol. one is a cadmium plating an the other i'm not sure of may be zinc. it is on there to help prevent galvonic corrosion from dissimilar metals
I use hinge drills to centre a left handed drill bit 👍🏻
Great Help ...Gold ..Thanks Danny SA Wallaroo ....Gold Thanks ...............
I have found that a good smack with a hammer works well.
Most bolts shear off under tension, release that tension by driving the remainder of the bolt back down then drill it out.
Have found multiple times that 30+yo Phillips head screws would not move until smacked sharply with a hammer.
Thank you for this video. I had some bolts snap off on my lower foot when I was putting a new water pump in.
I’m going to try these this weekend…
Again, thank you.
Great video Stu, thank you! Is the video about corroded bolt extraction up yet like you mention in this video? I have 4 bolts stuck in an Evinrude power head that I'm working on and they are definitely corroded in place. Thanks!
Have you ever tried using dry ice to shrink the metal instead of heat? I've even had a bit of luck with regular ice to quickly cool one side of the joint while the other was still warm.
Nice !
Thanks Mark! :)
Great video mate.An air chisel with a pointed bit works well too as the hammering action helps to free up the stuck bolt.
Cheers.
For sure, impacting action really does help to free things up.
I don't know how you got to 88MPH to go back and forwards in time with all the rain you had yesterday, I could hear it in the background! Then again, a Perenti doing 88MPH anytime is a massive achievement!
Hey Ron, I could get my Perentie up to 88 if I dropped it off a cliff. ;)
That brick? Mate that would have to be some cliff!
Great video. Did you happen to get the 3rd part done?
If you have to drill, try to get some left hand drill bits. They can sometimes bite and remove the bolt.
For those wothout these welding devices is where options are needed.
Great video. You mention this is a 3 part series and that you will deal with corroded bolts in another segment. Did you ever get to it?
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Very nice video
I broke an easy-out off once on my Yamaha 650 motorcycle. It really wasn't a big problem at all and the solution was very simple...although for the rest of the bike's life it was kind of ugly with that broken easy-out sticking out of the bolt hole. lol
It's a badge of honour. ;)
Another method for rounded off bolts or nuts is use a stillson wrench.
Pease. Going to help a lot
Nice video. I have a corroded bolt that broke from the thermostat. Can you post a link to where i can search for guided pin to drill out a hole in a bolt. Then i will probably use easy out to remove the bolt. Thank you very much!
I find a small pipe wrench is more effective than ViseGrips. Any tips on removing a snapped tap? Rookie mistake, not tapping in 1/4 turns. We learn more from our mistakes...
The reason you couldn't get those overtightened bolts out is because they stretch a little when (over)tightening. Just a little bit, but enough to mess with the threadpitch. Only happens locally, around the area where it breaks, but that's enough to lock the bolt in forever. The threadpitch of the bolt and of the hole don't lign up anymore, so it's physicaly impossible to unscrew it.
This doesn't apply to small chinesium bolts, but to more qualitative bolts.
Yes, the stretch really does wedge them in good. I was expecting the heads to break much more easily but they were OEM bolts so I guess the steel quality was quite good.
Had a head bolt break flush with block on a C85 Yamaha. Then I broke off the easy out. Had to get a tungsten carbide burr to grind out carefully. Took a day. Whew
Yes, it ain't much fun...
With a bolt broke above surface you can use the extraction sockets. I broke a bolt on thermostat housing . tap extraction socket on to bolt and use rachet. The socket will digg in and twist bolt out. ( i also heated then oil while hot let it cool to suck oil in . . repeat 2 or 3 times)
when you mean bolt broke above surface you mean when head is busted off and you have shank you can grip? I've seen extraction sockets but it looks like designed for rounded head not a shank
@@jonsen2792 yes exactly what i meant. . . I broke a bold on thermostat housing on old ford 300 6 cylinder . Head of bold broke off. . Shank was sticking out just enough to gently tap extraction socket onto the shank and use rachet to remove bolt. . . Its designed for rounded off bolt heads but works great on round shanks too . . Just choose proper size
@dangar marine were you ever able to publish part three of this video series I’ve looked through all of your old videos and don’t see it?
After breaking my first screw extractor, I never again use those. For me, it's best to just get to the point: redrill the hole entirely and use a thread repair kit.
Thank you very much for this video. I understood the system. However, I would like know if this is possible to extract a long rusting screw from the A/C compressor?
They can be tricky. Soak with oil and try an impact screwdriver or vice grips.
@@DangarMarine thank you!
Good tools for this for sure. The last one I have not seen before. What is the brand name? The one with the reverse drill with the reverse thread sleeve. I ended up drilling mine out due to the corrosion. The 3/16 bolts for the anode center drilled and one pulled what was left of the threads out. The other one was slightly off center but was able to run the new bolts in no problem. The side 5/16 bolts for the trim unit will just use self locking nuts on 2 of the 3 then put a repair threaded insert on the last one. I do have other small ones for covers ect.. to try out your meathods. Can't wait. Haha
I'm not sure what that type was called. From memory it doesn't have a clear name on the box, I'll double check. By far the hardest part drilling a bolt out completely is being absolutely dead centre the whole way down. This isn't such a problem depending on the situation, but with something where the torque spec is critical I would go with a thread repair system afterwards.
Thanks for the awesome videos. I have been watching your videos for a while now and started working as a marine mechanic apprentice myself for the last two years. As a 19 year old, do you think this field is a good career for myself? I would love to hear some of your thought s for the future of this business. Thanks a lot
Hi Dave. I think you will find it an enjoyable career. I can only seeing the business getting busier and busier and more people seem to be buying boats. Most people complain that they can't get into a workshop because they are too busy. You won't be short of work!
Removing broken bolts on outboars power heads due to being extremely salt water seized near solded are the most difficult to remove easily.
Is there a certain brand that performs better than other -- extractors?
Rusted stud video please!
Best tactic take lock tight put it to the drill head drill it wait take it out with the drill
G‘day Stu. I can‘t find the third part about corroded bolts. I just have the lower unit off an 1998 merc 125, where most of the stainless bolts were stuck due to the aluminium oxide. Whats your idea to keep the saltwater and corrosion out? Whats your opinion on stuff like tef-gel, duralac,…? Best regards
Stu, I have the same question. Did you ever do the promised video on removing bolts when there heavy corrosion?
Hi stu i know this is an old video but i am repairing a 40 hp 87 yamaha and have broken 4 head bolts and some on the exhaust cover can i just the mig or arc welder on head bolts as there stainless i believe ,i want to try to save this engine it isnt a basket case yet just need some advice .
Can u use the spiral easy out in a impact driver
There would be way too high a chance of it breaking in an impact driver. You need to use your hand to feel how much force is being applied to the tool and stop if it isn't coming out.
Hi mate you say you are goin to make a more indep video on rusted corroded bolts to get out i cannot find it i took the side plate off my 75hp yamaha 96 model and 2 bolts broke one is lower in the cowling how do i get to that one please it broke flush and the other is proud by about 8 mm and i tryed the vice grips with no luck any help please thanks mate
The 6x22 flush broken frozen bolt is too hard now to drill out (using new drill bits). Before I tried to to heat it up and use HF 90 amp arc flex weld bolt but it broke off multiple times. Did this process end up hardening the bolt? If so is there a process so I can I soften the metal and continue to drill out?
Not that I'm aware of. An EDM machine may be your only choice.
Wow I hope you read comments on your old videos because I have question for you? I did exactly as you shown, but my left "extention" broke into the bolt. Its imposible to drill it out. I have tryded several HSS drills both Titan and Cobolt but nothing helps. I don´t have a welding maschine yet, Please do you have a solution. The bolt is really styuck. Happy new year buy the way;)
That is a very tough situation unfortunately, and one reason that some people go straight for drilling the bolt. An EDM machine will be able to remove it if there is someone around near you that offers that service. Failing that, if you have enough room you may be able to drill down beside it and then go the thread repair route afterwards czcams.com/video/u5k-qDIL3Kk/video.html
Cheers and thanks for that. Experienced a related issue when winterizing my Yamaha this last fall. Last task of the day was to shoot some grease into the various fittings and accidentally twisted the grease gun as I was removing it from one zerk. Yep - snapped the head clean off. First time in 40 plus years of boating I've done that so stared in disbelief for a minute failing to comprehend the full scale of the horror. Digging the remains out will have to wait til the spring but I'm hoping as the fitting by its nature lives in a greasy hollow that it will spin out without much problem. This ever happen to you?
I've definitely seen that happen before. The good thing is that it already has a hole through the middle so drilling it will be relatively easy.
Hey Stu - success! Did a little video shout out to you as I tackled this pretty straightforward problem...
czcams.com/video/-U9J8CZ2E_g/video.html
Can anyone suggest the best way to remove two broken tap bolts from your intake manifold ❓
finally something ive done, broken bolts not getting them out, LOL
;)
Stu , who makies those sockets? model number would help alot.
Is there a common (or technical) name for the socketsr? manufacture, or link? Thanks
www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-bolt-extractor-socket-set---3-8-inch-9-piece/342010.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwr8zoBRA0EiwANmvpYLk5cJAdqwnyNOYFKGEUY11TH66v4ph5kudgZgWgGD6wvsAHm7NGnBoCzHAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hi dangar, this video was too late for me, just a week ago I tried to using extractor to take out a broken bolt deep inside the hole in of one of my outboard gearbox, I doing same thing as you, then I put in the extractor and turns it until it tighten, and using a spanner to turns the extractor and break it. I already spray penetrating oil and let them sitting about 10 minutes to start work with. Still getting bad result.
Yes, I did what you saying about the worst case, broken bolt inside, and the broken extractor also in it, damm it!
What my next act was take out all the gearbox parts like gasket, after that I should be using gas torch to heat on the gearbox block and try one more time for it.
Or any suggestion for it?
Still thanks for your video to explain the right way how to extract bolts which maybe I'm doing fine but not enough good luck for my situation.
Hey Jerry. Heat definitely helps. The good thing about the problem being in the gearbox is it gives you the option of taking to a specialist shop and having it removed if needs be. As Matthew mentioned below, if you can find someone with an EDM machine they probably won't charge a fortune to remove it.
@@DangarMarine Thanks! I planning to looking for help if needed. But the gearbox still running over 6 months right now, the gearbox got 2 stuck broken bolts in the water impeller box opposite side, so it still getting other 2 brand new bolts to made it tighten, and I keep monitor the water temperature for the engine was good, so I think I still got time to find a good way to fix it.
i get so mad when that happens i just take a sledge hammer and start busting away ,, i can get the bolt out but i have to replace the engine block
LOL, you wouldn't be the only one!
A trick Iearned make a drill bushing cut in a lath clearance out side diameter tap drill size hole drill oil harden steel harden put back some good bolts into holes head put bushing in clearance hole you turn head into drill jig and drill out then clean up threads with tap put bushing in t box for next job harden bushing will not let you go into softer material work good for me made a couple for different size bolts
How’s the boat build going?
Update this weekend!
You can watch project farms videos on wax and liquid rust removers. Wax doesn't actually work .
It's funny, a lot of people swear by wax but what I noticed is that as soon as it cools and goes solid again it seems quite grippy.
vice grips should have been the other way around for max force. Learnt that in engineering. Like there is only one way to use a shifter. Not trying being a smart arse, just what I learnt....
Good point and the teeth are then pointing in the right direction as well for maximum grip. Another great video Stu. Thank you
For sure, good point. Having the force against the main solid part of the tool is the stronger way to go. :)
No easy outs, they are a nightmare to get out when broken off....which happens quite often. Drill out the bolt until just the threads are left, then use a tap to carefully remove the remaining threads.
I do think you need to be very careful with easy outs, for sure. I'm happy to give them a try once the first hole is drilled but if doesn't feel like it's coming out I'll very quickly swap to drilling the whole bolt out. I think the main reason I go to a thread repair rather than a tap to remove the remains of the thread is I find it quite challenging to drill accurately enough down the centre of the bolt to not damage the block thread.
@@DangarMarine I was going to ask you why you go straight to thread repair. So even when you use a drill guide that still won't help you drill accurately enough?
Can i come over and work for you?
How is charly??🐾🐾
Charlie is fine!
yo this dude hard as fuck 💯✊
An easy way is to leave things with broken bolts to a shop! hands dont even get dirty
Im the guy who always, always, always breaks off the easy outs. I detest using them. I know they work for most people, but just never had any luck with them.
The reality is that bolts break because they are very stuck so for that reason easy outs do have very limited success.
God I wish I could find a video where the bolt is down in a hole. Mine is a headbolt .
Drilling it out and putting in a helicoil is probably your best option.
Nice video from Indian occupied Kashmir
I still have the remains of the one and only easy out I broke off many years ago as a reminder of what not to do. Boss wasn't impressed either. That would've been close to 20yrs ago now and I still remember what a shit day that turned out to be.
Ah, you won't be the first or the last to do that...