Repairing a damaged bolt thread
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- čas přidán 17. 11. 2018
- In this video I show using a Time-Sert thread repair kit to repair a damaged bolt thread.
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Great video Stu. Always remember, every five minute job is one broken bolt away from becoming a three day ordeal!
Thanks Jack, ain't that the truth! :)
Great explanation of why the time-sert is often times the better option vs just drilling and tapping and going oversize.
Excellent tutorial Stu!
Thanks mate!
This is the exact problem I’m having with the bolt right in front of the trim tab on my lower unit! It came out normal but now just spins indefinitely trying to put it back in!! Thanks so much, Stu!!!
Yes, the dreaded endless spinning. This will fix it in a flash. :)
Thanks Stew very informative!!!Your a great teacher and you have a way of making things look easy to the layman!!
Thanks Mike!
Well done Stu...thanks!
Very Good video!!!!!! greetings from Argentina
Thanks Matias!
As always another great video. What I use is aluminium brazing where there are no components that are too close that can be damaged by heat. Most people don't realize that anyone can braze aluminium with only a butane torch and the metal doesn't get hot enough to have to use protective gasses. I've attached components onto my runabout, filled in old rivet holes, filled in corrosion on outboard legs and once easily patched ten cent piece size holes; all with brazing and it's stronger than the original. I drill out the stripped threads and add some metal back. I then insert the bolt while the metal is molten then heat the bolt and area then add more brazing rod to fill the hole. I then unscrew the bolt (no need to tap) then tidy up the job. I use MAP gas as I can get more heat into the aluminium in a shorter time. I had to do this recently on a '78 30HP Johnson.
Brazing sure is a great technique. As you say, you can always just build the material up again and then drill and tap.
Stu, thanks again. I used this technique to fix my motorcycle.
Excellent as always mate. Almost makes me want to go strip one of my threads. 😳
Thanks mate. I'm sure you cant find something that needs rethreading. ;)
Thanks for the video Stu. I learn something every time on your channel.
Thanks Paul, glad you've been getting something out of the vids. :)
Your videos are epic mate. Thanks for doing these! It’s a shit load of effort filming and editing everything. Cheers💪
Excellent vid, great tutorial and explanation!👍🏻
Thanks mate. :)
Great Video Stu!
Thanks mate! :)
Hi Stu, I've got a 302 ci. block with an oil pan bolt stripped because my Mechanic uses an impact gun to replace the bolt. For two years I've used Teflon tape to take up the difference. it's not a well used vehicle, not every day anyway. So far so good, no problems. I need to check the oil often just in case. I purchase a oversized tap and matching bolt for a future repair. Thanks for another well scalped video. Cheers !!***.
The good thing about the oil pan is that you have so many other bolts holding it on. As long as it doesn't leak I wouldn't stress too much, but could be fun to fix seeing you have the tools now.
Thanks for your help
You're welcome. :)
Good shit stu as always
so good.
I consider drilling and tapping/Helocoil, etc. to be THE last resort, but if absolutely necessary, you demonstrated the right way to do it. The Time-sert, IMHO, is MUCH better than Helicoil.
Again, another awesome video bro.
Thank you!
What do you instead?
OMG, last year i broke a bolt from the same cover in my BF30 trying to change the internal anode. I broke it during the screw. Almost a deja vu, Stew. Great job.
It's a pretty common problem with outboard unfortunately. :(
Only time I've ever used a thread repair kit was when my buddy, helping me reassemble an evinrude, stripped the spark plug out of the head by cross-threading it. Drilling the plug threads out just felt wrong as all hell, but installing the sleeve and 'pounding' the tool in to spread the insert so it would bite, worked well enough that afterwards I was back up to 140+ PSI compression.
Wish this video existed back in the mid '00s.
It is a nervous moment as you need make something worse before you begin making it better.
Always reading my mind man! Gonna try this on my bolt threads that are stripped out on my lower unit mid section connection
Good luck Ramon!
Nice work mate love ur channel.
Thanks Victor. :)
Nice bit if kit. I have only ever drilled and tap, which meant I was increasing the bolt size. Good vid thanks
They are handy in certain circumstances, that's for sure.
Just awesome
I really enjoy your videos. I don't own a boat but I find your processes for getting things done both informative and instructional. Very interested to see how you progress with the steel-hulled trawler. Really felt for you when you had to put the diesel into the LR because you'd run out of money! Good luck with it all.
Thanks Nik, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
I was always curious how those thread repair kits worked, thanks for demystifying the process!
You're welcome mate. :)
Nice instructional video Stu, as always. I see below you have hit the pretty common time wall for the boat project. You are not alone on that one, probably 80% of such projects stop for the same reason. "helicoil' has become a generic term for any thread repair kit. I was told to use a sealant like Loctite on the repair thread (helicoil itself) to seal it from water which could cause corrosion issues. Also, some aluminium parts have steel coil inserts for the bolts - check that there isn't any such thing in the hole before you try to drill out the stripped hole, those inserts are typically very hard steel and will ruin drill bits immediately!
Hey Ron, hope you are going okay. Looks like I'm going to be making some changes with the boat project to make it a bit more achievable, but more on that soon!
Great video - stripping threads is always a horrible experience, but if you are confident in how to repair them, that makes an agonizing roadblock in a job or a project into a manageable one.
I'm a fan of time-serts myself - and one of the really nice things that comes with the name-brand kits is a tube with a perfectly flat end to help you start the drill and the tap perfectly straight. It's a little thing, but it can make a huge difference.
Hey Paul, yes, those guide tube can be great, particularly for drilling out broken bolts.
Great information mate... and don't stress the boat build. BTW Love the hoodie ...i gotta get me one of those !
Thanks Mark. Hopefully it will be too hot for us to wear hoodies for a while. :)
Long time my friend...
Congratulacions for good job...
And vídeos too...
Ponta Grossa city
Brasil
Thanks Carlos!
Nice hint at the end to buy hoodies.lol.Good stuff mate.
Thanks Fabian. ;)
When I was into Chevy Corvairs, with aluminum heads, often the 1/4-20 valve cover bolts would get stripped by mechanics used to bolts going into steel and forgiving of over tightening. Since torque needed to seal the cover was quite low, our first option was to go to a metric bolt (forgot size) that was just a bit larger than that 1/4-20 and just allow it to create it's own threads. No need for drilling and tapping. And, fit through the original valve cover holes... :)
It would be interesting to experiment on a hole stripped and the metric installed to see just what torque it'd handle.
RichE (San Diego, CA getting cold here, went down to 57F ~14C last night... :)
Aluminium definitely is soft enough to have a bolt cut its own thread. There are definitely plenty of metric/imperial bolt sizes that are very close like 3/8 and 10mm.
Hey Stu,
Another great video...
I'm thinking about buying a boat just so I can put some of the stuff I've learned on the channel into practice !
Keep up the great work.
Thanks Paul, glad you liked it. :)
Remember the old saying “A boat is a hole in the water that you throw money into!!”
I'm curious if there will be a specific episode devoted to broken bolt extraction "marine" version, since damaged threads and broken bolts in aluminum engine blocks/housings are a VERY common occurrence.
With aluminum, you're options are a bit more limited since cutting torch heat has to be applied very conservatively.
I would say the broken spark plug video partially covered some of that topic, but not fully enough to deal with broken bolts specifically.
Indeed there will be! Hopefully not too far away. :)
Thanks for the vid Stu. Wth my 115hp etec, a mild steel bolt was used for one of the 2 bolts that hold the propeller shaft housing assembly in place via the 2 tab retainers. I have just removed it but the correct Evinrude bolt I purchased will not torque down due to the resulting corrosion. I am getting a mobile thread repair company in to correct this but an not clear on whether they should tap out the hole to the next size up (if there is room) or insert a stainless thread repair in the the existing hole. I thought that having the stainless in contact with the aluminium below the water line would cause further issues with the dissimilar metals but given the bolt going in to the thread is also stainless, that must mean it is actually Ok. It also seems difficult to find 316 stainless imperial bolts so would be good to use the one I purchased from Evinrude dealer.
As you say, the bolt going in is stainless anyway. Putting loctite on the thread insert and grease on the bolt will help too. It also means you can use a single spanner to remove the bolts later on.
Hey mate, loving your vids. 👍🏻 quick question I couldn’t get the drain plug out of the gearbox and used an impact driver to retrieve the plug but cracked the thread of the casing.. I tried helicoil but no dice.. is their another solution or am I looking at a new case.. cheers
The Time-serts are nice,but VERY pricey here in the States.We usually use a Helicoil and they work fine. Just FYI, it's snowing here in Detroit;-)
We have a few Recoil kits here which I think are very similar to Helicoils and they seem to work fine too.
Am just about to go out and unpack the boat from the first trip of the season. 2 days on Burrill Lake . barely anything even biting, nothing worth keeping, but any day on the water is better than working.
hows the boat build coming along?
It's not at the moment. I just can't find the time. I'm considering making a smaller boat from home to push on more regularly.
Excellent tute Stu. Let us know what is happening with the boat build..
Thanks mate. Struggling to find the time at the moment.
@@DangarMarine - know that story well...same here. I seem to need bigger breaks these days...damn age!
Thanks Stu. I always wondered what locked the insert into place. My uncle once had a '59 Mercedes and he stripped one of the spark plugs and his solution was to epoxy in a new plug. Frightening to say the least. Mind you, he was mechanical engineer.
It is amazing the heat that some epoxy formulations can withstand.
Hey Stu
Thanks heaps mate. Really enjoy your vids.
Can you do a tut on extracting a broken bolt shaft from the engine block. I tried so many tools and nothing worked. Bloody bugger is annoying me.
Ps. I really want to jump back on Patreon to support you but I moved overseas and no longer working as I’m continuing my masters degree. Hopefully when I get back.
Hey Ibrahim. Yep, definitely planning to do a bolt extraction video very soon. Good luck with your degree! :)
Just what I need to fix the bolts I had to drill out on the tilt unit bracket. I can put nuts and washers on some of the 6 but not some of them. Putting in these helicoils will do just fine. Probably will work better too being stainless steal with the new same material bolts to remove them down the road. Stainless and aluminum is horrible combination materials for saltwater use. But ideal for a helicoil to fuse together with aluminum over time😁
Hey Tim. Yes, aluminium and stainless aren't great friends, that's for sure.
Great video... when the season is done I'm planning on removing a water jacket very similar to that one. My honda bf30 is 23 years old and I don't think the former owner ever changed the anode... Any pointers so I don't break all those 6mm bolts? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the great vids and giving me the inspiration to work on my own outboard. Finally worked up the courage to replace the water pump with a new kit only to find the previous monkey of a mechanic had stripped one water pump bolt (which was poking up over 2 cm and another 3 bolts raised up 5mm from the top of the pump case. It was probably just the pressure of the housings holding all it together. Anyway back to the stripped thread. I have been researching which thread repair kit to use and are still unsure. The Wurth website says their inserts are galvanised steel. So putting a stainless bolt into galv steel into aluminium and submerging it into salt water concerns me a bit. In your case it was above the water line but not in mine. Are the other spring type such as Helicoil stainless steel or are the also galv or hardened steel? What do you recommend? Sorry for the long post but perfect timing of the video. Cheers.
Below the waterline I would definitely go with something stainless. These ones are advertised as being stainless and would do the job quite nicely (in the right size of course) www.gearbest.com/tool-kit/pp_009213016760.html?wid=1433363¤cy=AUD&vip=16076654&gclid=CjwKCAiAiuTfBRAaEiwA4itUqCARKKz8S1IMubbZWbBjbbhBXJnk20ypqJhejeuHfCvrlaFFjXIMvxoCY40QAvD_BwE
Stu, where you supposed to use the flare tool to finish the installation
Very informative videos
Thanks
No, these are all the steps for these installs. The installation tool flares the bottom once it goes all the way in.
smashed the thumbs up @ :03
Good man! ;)
Stu, would you use Loctite Stud Lock to keep the insert in long term?
It wouldn't hurt, but the expanding at the end of the installation is stronger than any loctite would be so isn't needed.
Awesome...do the hoodies come in a full zipper front?
They do offer that option, I'll just need to check how the printing goes across the join before I sell them.
Top tip: When tapping a blind hole, stop before you reach the end of the hole. Trying to remove a tap that has snapped because it bottomed out is no fun at all. Otherwise, great video.
Yes, they are very hard to get out if they break, that's for sure.
Question is the torque spec’s the same?
Stu great video. which system is better : Helli Coil or Time Sert to repair a crankcase that has pulled its threads out due to excessive salt water seizure and corrotion on bolt's thread when removigg cylinder head ? Will a long Time Sert handle 25-28 NM of torque ?
They are both pretty good, but I prefer Time Serts. They are stronger than the original threat apparently.
Hello Stu, need to install a Time Ser kit for a M10 cylinder head bolt on a 2 strokes Tohatsu 18 HP outboard. The OEM 10M bolt has 20 mm lenght threads. On Amazon only see M10 kits with just 15mm lenght threads. Question if installing such 15 mm Time Serts will they be capable of securing tight such bolts that needs to be torqued to 28 NM with a torque wrench ?
Yes, they should take 28NM just fine.
I have a 9. 1/2 Johnson seahorse about 1967 .It starts Idles nice but will not pull under load any thoughts thanks
I'd check compression, carb clean, spark plugs, reed valves - all the basic stuff and then see how it goes after that.
Hey Stu, i have a 1984 johnson
70hp and noticed it need grease on the new water pump but don’t know where to apply the Evinrude Johnson Triple Guard Grease on the water pump,does it go on the shaft or O-rings,or the keys? I normally take it to my mechanic but he’s having health problems and would like to do it myself, Thanks.
Hi Omar. Normally you put a bit of a grease around the inside of the metal cup that the impeller runs in to give it a bit of start up lubrication before the water is being pumped.
Dangar Marine thanks stu. Would if be fine to put some grease on the o rings that go on the shaft to make them slide easier on the shaft? And to keep the key and black rubber band that goes around the cup on would i be able to use the grease or would 3M 847 Scotch-Grip Rubber & Gasket Adhesive, Brown be better to use?
Would you recommend using lock-tite on the outer threads of the insert? I'd be concerned of the insert coming out with the bolt, should you need to remove the bolt in the future. Sorry - I've never used a thread repair kit and I'm sure they've thought of this. Your explanation at the end (about the kit pushing out the lower threads to secure it in place) may be their plan. I just wasn't sure if lock-tite is optional. Another great vid
During the last part of the video Scott, Stu pointed out how the threaded insert physically locks into the block hole by being force to expand into the block hole. It seems to me this mechanical solution is going to be much stronger than lock-tite especially as this is a block that will, I expect, break any chemical bond over time.
@@BenMitro thanks for that. I kinda thought this was the case.
Wikipedia says that those make stronger joint then orginal.
Interesting to hear that. I certainly felt they were as strong as original.
Hold on , did I see safety glasses being used, you must have found then in THE BOX that in very clean.
They like to make a guest appearance every now and then. ;)
How do you repair an aluminum boat Transit I have a 16 foot boat 6 foot 3 wide
Presuming you mean transom, normally just by welding and extra plate on.
هل يمكن ان تخبرني كيف اتخلص من دخول الماء الى القارب من جانب المروحه /الشفت/
Drill size for retapping a hole is not about what you think it should be!
Look up the correct size drill to use and there’s a chance it won’t be stripping out again!
pesky strip outs!!!! one thing i wish manufactures would get together on is bolt torque is it dry threads or lubricated??? most service manuals wont say unless its an absolute critical. while aluminium is great stuff it can be rather soft. it is easy to get it crooked so a tapping block helps too.
Yes, there does tend to be a bit of variation in bolt installation procedures, that's for sure.
What's happened to the boat build
Struggling to find the time.
what is Dangar?
Just FYI it's a 6.8mm hole for an M8 thread
That sounds right. When I was thinking later I thought you would need at least 0.5mm each side, not total.
These thread repair kits offer and steal thread that is less likely to be damaged by the bolt, especially on applications that are removed and replaced from time to time. I thought Time-Sert had an alignment kit to make sure everything went in straight. Not sure.
wanted to be the first lul
why not just get a new bolt? the wrong title I now see you mean a female thread so why???