Deep Cleaning Ceramic Coated Wheels with the 3 pH Wheel Wash System
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- I adopted this from another brand to showcase the equivalent range in the CarPro line up as everyone has access to the CarPro product line. The 3 pH wash system involves the use of three different pH ranges to deep clean the surface of a ceramic coating which can become clogged during its lifespan. If this process does not revive the hydrophobic layer of a coating then it is fair to say the hydrophobic layer has failed yet the coating is still on the surface.
The 3 pH ranges consists of an alkaline wash an acidic wash and an iron remover (pH neutral).
CarPro Lift: www.detailedimage.com/wax.php...
CarPro Descale: www.detailedimage.com/wax.php...
CarPro XL Brush: www.detailedimage.com/wax.php...
Adams Tire & Rubber Cleaner: amzn.to/3KaNZ4J
Glassparency Iron Remover: glassparency.com/michael-guzman
SPTA Cordless Pump Sprayer: amzn.to/3v6Ow3I
Intro: (0:00)
What is 3 pH? (2:41)
Alkaline Pre-Treat: (7:00)
Iron Remover Application: (9:53)
Acidic Wash: (11:07)
Rinse: (15:24)
Outro: (18:44) - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Hmm, interesting. I've always just used an acidic solution (Pearl Nano's Water Spot Killer in my case) on coated cars that are "clogged up" and have lost their hydrophobic performance and have always had excellent results. What I do is I wash the car normally with CarPro Reset (most often) or megs Hyperwash, doesn't really matter, and after I rinse the car down, while it's still wet, I grab the Pearl Nano WSK, spray a few good splats onto a fresh microfiber towel and then I work it into the car's surface, kinda massaging it or as if I was washing it again, adding more sprays as needed as I move to the next area and the water dilutes the product. You don't really need too much and the product starts lathering up and has great lubricity. I go around the car MUCH quicker than when washing since it's already clean, I never have to rinse the towel so I just go around and work it in real quick and then I THOROUGHLY rinse the car down and boom, the majority of times the beads are back in near full effect, then I just dry the car and top it with reload or whatever I'm inclined to use at the moment. What I LOVE about giving it an acid bath as I like to call it (it wasn't a common practice back when I was doing it, it's only recently that this has started blowing up as more people catch on to how effective it is). Anyway what I love about it is how SLICK the paint feels as I'm drying the car after the acid bath! It really shaves off all the mineral deposits and other tough road film/other stubborn stuff that doesn't come out with washing, claying or other chemicals. Some times I'll do it on cars even if they're beading pretty well, as it always boosts gloss, slickness and hydrophobicity that might be uneven (but don't recommend doing it super often, once or twice a year is about as much as you'd ever wanna do it, if you find that you're having to do it more often than that, then you're either not washing your car often enough or your wash process needs work). I'll add CarPro's Descale to my list of products I wanna try out. An acidic wash would cut a whole step and save me a lot of time if I can just acid bath as I wash and then rinse off and be done with it ready to top it up.
You are exactly right that using a water spot remover is a good way to bring back the life of a coating when it looks like it may have lost its hydrophobic behavior. Descale is a good option to have as it is not as strong as a dedicated spot remover but it does seem to work well for the decon process.
I thought the wheel looked clean before, but it was popping after! Daaaaaang. (Cool seeing the nozzle in action)
Another great video Mike, I'll have to try the 3 PH step in the future. I like you said you need to get your wheel refurbished- its like brand new! Haha 😉
S1 soap good soap it’s 9.5 PH. Great for striping 2 wash’s should break down wax, Sealant etc.
Hi, great video. Really useful information… You mentioned doing a similar process for the paint but I couldn’t find the video. Did it get made? All your videos are informative and so I would like to know more about your regular processes. Thanks again.
Thanks. I went over the 3 pH on the video on an actual coating.
Armour Detail Supply Armour Pro Quartz Ceramic Coating - 3 Month Update
czcams.com/video/4UnB_cImG48/video.html
yeah not fan of this electric foam sprayer, when you used echo2 in it as just pressure sprayer it make more sense to me. This video actually remind my begginings when i get into detailing couple years ago:) did not have pressure washer at start and was using garden hose - oh boy that was LOT of water wasted :D great video as always:)
Mike, thanks for this. I applied DLux last year to my wheels and the water behavior hasn’t been great so far this season so I figure it either is severely contaminated or has failed. Admittedly this is likely my fault as I was rushing last year and probably did not give the coating a proper surface to bond to, and I also used wheel cleaner/ironx more often than I needed to last season. This process will be a good test to guide next steps as I already have fresh DLux on deck for application this year.
Do you cover your mentioned dislike of spray and rinse in another video based on product testing vs traditional spray and wipe sealants? I was curious to hear your opinion given I have been using Hydro2 from CarPro with some success on uncoated vehicles.
I don’t like using them as they seem to attract more dirt. More apparent on wheels. I don’t use them on paint. Actually I don’t think I ever have.
@@MikeGDetailing very cool, thanks for the response. 95 percent of the time I’m using hydro2 on other cars that I don’t monitor over time so I don’t think I would notice this. I tried the similar Sonax product and was not a fan vs the Carpro offering. Dirt attraction is good food for thought on adding a spray and wipe product to the next purchase.
Also instead of Lift a good APC does just as good
Guz, great topic on 3PH. I’ve gone down the rabbit hole with the labocosmetica process and their theory on this. Is anyone in the U.S. selling their stuff yet?
I don’t believe so. At least I haven’t seen besides their own site.
Clarity Coat has there products in the US but since COVID he has very limited inventory. Their new iron remover loos like the best on the market but not yet available here.
@@functionaldoc5054 good to know. Thanks FD. Hopefully we see their inventory/supply increase over the year.
Do you think using Descale monthly would harm a coating? I used Adam’s acidic strip wash and it brought back old Griot’s 3-in-1 and Diamond Wheels on one of my cars. It seems like the ceramic products really tolerate acids much better than alkalinity when you look at the torture tests. If the acidic wash brings back a weakened sealant it’s hard to see it doing much to a coating like Mohs Evo. I did my own test on a shower mirror coated with Fireball Pirouette spray sealant and the acid soap worked there too. I hit the mirror with Adam’s Wheel and Tire Cleaner pH 13 beast and it damaged the sealant in one application.
You should not need to use it that often. It also depends on the coating you are using. But most coatings have a pH range of 2-13.
@@MikeGDetailing Mohs Evo. They do give a wide range for resistance but I've noticed even though they say up to 13 is fine many coatings are weakened by the high pH stuff.
@@chrisbradley3224 descale has a lower ph in the range of 6 when diluted in water. Undiluted it’s a 3.
Off the detailing path here Guz, did you replace them with the Bilstein struts for the GXP🤔
No. I have had the General Motors Performance Parts lowering kit for years which includes lowering springs and Koni adjustable struts.
@@MikeGDetailing oh wow, that's cool they still make perf parts for the car😉
The aftermarket is still good for the w-body. GMPP themselves don’t make things for it.