Hey there it's Sunday morning!
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 05. 2024
- The 3D printed band saw "upgrades": • He Said You Can't 3D P...
Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans/
Support this channel on Patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=865843...
My main channel:
/ jpheisz
Website: ibuildit.ca/
Facebook: / i-build-it-25804801424...
Instagram: / i_build_it.ca - Jak na to + styl
Good cheer John! Nice enthusiasm. Couldnt thumbs up fast enough.
The story of my shop time is moving stuff from one flat surface to another.
You net to get Matthias Wandel interested enough in 3d printing to do all the "break" tests to see which infill is actually the strongest.
Those tests have been done by various youtube channels already. One thing to keep in mind though is in which direction the infill needs to have most strength (and whether just pressure needs to be handled or also pulling). Some tests focus on pulling a piece apart, some (ex. Slant3D) on putting pressure on the part.
I forgot to comment on the original video, so iI'll do so here (probably a better chance you'll see it here anyways). Speaking for myself, I'm a fan of your woodworking projects, but it's not really the woodworking, per se, that makes them appointment viewing: rather, it's the engenuity you bring to these projects. You're very creative and good at problem solving, so for me, whether you're 3D printing things or building them out of wood, it doesn't make a huge difference. In fact, all the tools you used at the end of the video that you'd printed got a good chuckle out of me, just because I wouldn't have thought to model and print them. Seems like you're having fun too, which I think is sort of subconsciously infectious. I say go whatever way brings you the most satisfaction.
ETA: did you see Marius Hornberger's newest project? Holy shit. If you haven't you'd really enjoy that one, I think.
John smiles, lol. Good talk John.
Good to see a fusion of woodworking and 3D printing, not many channels explore that option. Somehow my CNC rarely gets cluttered, I usually clean up after each use (or project) because I won't use it if there's junk on it. Same goes for other working surfaces, if it's collecting junk then I first clean up and start fresh or I won't start at all. Each to their own to get off to a flying start with projects. A clean shop is just so inviting to start a project in :)
I'd think that printed plastic parts would get soft, or even warped if left in the hot sun. I don't think that going "more plastic" and "more disposable" is a good thing, for the environment, but even more importantly, for our health.
The Bandsaw of Theseus :-) Nice work, I'd like to see more 3d printing, but all techniques have their strong sides and weak sides. 3d printing is for finicky and precise parts, wood, solid and plywood are for parts that have to be durable and stong
Adding to that, 3D printing is mainly for small parts and parts that are difficult or even impossible to assemble otherwise like printing articulating parts in place, while wood and CNC is mainly for larger parts as printing very large parts becomes unpractical as build space is small and doing anything larger than 100x100x50mm will take days to print.
How about printing a form and then filling it with another material? It could be filled with anything appropriate for that piece: portland cement, spray foam, epoxy, whatever. The printed infill could be minimal, just whatever will make the form keep it's shape when filled with the added material.
It is wonderful to see you in such good spirits despite the weather. You look like you are having a lot of fun again. I swear that the top of my workbench is a portal to another dimension. I clean it up, turn my back, and it is full again. I thought dust bunnies multiplied fast.
I am really looking forward to seeing the new shed, especially as you have so many ideas for it.
Best Wishes, B.
I miss your potato reveal videos, glad to see you still around sir
Thank you. I had to step back for health reasons but I am hoping to get the greenhouse going this year and spuds next. I would love to just bull into it but that's what got me in trouble a couple of years ago so I think it's best to let time do it's thing. Best Wishes, Brendan.
+1... Is it going to be a small(er) _3D era woodworking shop?_
7:30 NOW I'm no longer ashamed to count the occurrences where i broke/misplaced a Tool and *just reprinted* since i had it recreated in CAD&PLA. ... SIMILAR STORY: CNC
... I should have watched your BIN
pls pls film the *vertical CNC dust cover* ....will copy promised😅
Would love to see the enclosure build, even though I’m unlikely to build one. Always something to learn and I watch all of your videos.
John, if it works... It works. Doesn't matter if it's plastic, wood or metal. 😊
I'd be worried if you were going to use the square with a blade, for cutting something. You know? It would wear pretty quickly. But since it's not the case... Nobody cares. 😉
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The spindle sander is quickly becoming the 'not used much" category for woodworkers. For me, however, I make a lot of templates and refine smaller parts frequently, so the spindle sander is really handy for my workflow.
I see some speaker beauty rings and horns happening soon 🙂
This is the reason I watch your channel. If something doesn't work, you jut change it. I haven't built many of your projects, but I have gotten a lot of ideas for my projects, and for not being fixed to a layout. You also aren't building an enormous space to keep all of your tools in, because they don't all have to be in one space. The biggest decision over the next few months is, going to be, what face will be on the CNC lid?
Always interesting.
Glad you are having fun with the printer. It definitely can be a rabbit hole
... John has the luck of the late coming... WITH his *bambu lab*
while I enjoyed 3D printer building (fiddling) I almost lost woodworking
watched both videos ! just keep on keepin on , i'll keep watchin , thanks !
Hey John, very nice to see another video.
Ohhh... BTW, John... 3d printing and rc stuff are an even better combination. So, who knows an rc car or boat? 😉
Wife keeps asking me to clean my workbench. What's the point, I tell her, it will look the same in a week...
My workbench would look the same in 15 minutes. I was working on 2 different projects this morning- before I could start a step I would clean off all of the tools and materials from the previous step. Then when I finished the next step I would clean off tools and get ready for the third step. I did that numerous times, even sweeping and vacuuming twice during that process.
Infill shape is a complex element to select - there are infills that create better (edit: at least for certain directions of part loading) layer to layer adhesion, some that are far better at stiffness:weight or toughness:weight ratio than others, some folks prefer because it doesn't tend to show through the outer walls as easily and probably a few other variables... Then you have infill position and percentage - for something like your zero clearance table insert it would help with the strength of that part hugely if the printer isn't printing infill but solid walls in the direction you are going to cut into it - as soon as there are no walls around the infill the part will generally crush dramatically easier (which is where you need to master your slicer or edit the gcode yourself so you can tell the printer to effectively print the infill where and how you want it).
I was watching the video of the printed saw parts, wondering about the strength, and then you showed the problem with the table. That's part of the trial and error- determining how strong they need to be for the intended use. Also attachments may be another limiting factor- how you bolt to the plastic parts. If you look at cars- a plastic bumper cover never breaks, it always damages the little tabs where the cover attaches to the body. For want of a plastic tab an entire bumper is lost.
Horizontal surfaces- everybody has that problem. I envisioned a conveyor belt system with part of it in your shop, the majority of it goes through the walls and sticks out somewhere else. Think about the sliding playing field at Allegiant Stadium in Las Vegas- the entire playing field slides out into the parking lot exposing an entirely new horizontal surface. When the piece of conveyor in your shop gets full you just push a button and that piece goes out through the wall exposing a new empty flat surface. Or you may have seen the little display cabinets in antique shops that work almost like a ferris wheel- push a button and a new horizontal surface rotates to the top. There are automated car parking machines that work like that. You would just need a big basement for all of the horizontal surfaces to disappear into.
I’m curious how many spools you’ve used since getting the printer. All very cool projects 👍🏻
Gyroid is best when you want to load isotopically. triangles are the bestagons of one directional reinforcement.
My point is that sparse in fill needs to be thicker if you are trying to use it to add strength in any direction. And that you should figure out in which direction the part needs to be strongest before slicing it, so that you can orient that infill to add to the strength in that direction.
And I would dispute the claim that gyroid is more effective for adding strength in all directions better than the tri-hex infill. Most of the strength of a part comes from the outer shell and to increase that strength you effectively bridge from one side to the other with bracing that doesn't flex.
@@IBuildItScrapBin yes, I concur in almost everything. but the appreciation of strength. for example, your insert piece is perfectly reinforced, but that just because of the form factor of the lateral walls. the lateral walls are almost completely unsupported by the infill (as they are composed of angled pillars).if you make a cube with the same infill and test the UCS (unconfined compression stress) test, the lateral walls would fail faster.
what you refer to strength pertaining to how the material performs is actually moment of inertia given the geometry of the material. if we considered it as mechanical structure, this being plastic, the transmission of stress is quiet poor (sorry for my weird way of expressing, my knowledge comes mostly from geomechanical engineering, as thus I think this stuff as (re-) distribution of stress fields, and I am not a native speaker), so large unsupported facets start to absorb the stress as the shell line instead of the totality of the object. And gyroids reduce the effective area of unsupported facets (but they are not perfect, of course, because of 3d printing layer deposition anisotropy)
an unsupported external shell start to act like a independent weak bridge. and could break before transferring the load to the rest of the shell if the infill fails to transmit the force around (that produced the failure of the fist inserts, and the table). this can be solved increasing the shell transmissivity (increase the thickness of the shell) and increasing the supports to reduce the effective unsupported span. this is no different from how you reinforce a excavation close to surface. and the answer is always to supports if possible, it cheaper and easier. which is what you did. the gyroid would work better in an excavation in deep with high lateral forces that have to be balanced. the analogy starts to crumble when we think that the excavation could be rotated, an then a gyroid could then be useful again.
what I mean with a isotropic load is that the max force excerpted can come in any direction. and then every surface is "equally" supported with a gyroid infill, while a polygonal approach would reinforce one way disproportionally (which is the right solution almost always).
(if this sound overtly critical, I am sorry, I am 99% in you camp. the only thing that I do not think is right is the interpretation of thin shell structures, everything else, and the solution are spot on)
I hope that any of this is at least legible xD.
The external walls are not unsupported, since they make up the shell of the part. Look at how a box beam is strong, even though it has nothing inside.
@@IBuildItScrapBin yes, I know. the form factor and the wall thickness make it a none issue in the design. but that is thick piece of plywood, not 1.2-3mm of plastic (that has about the same strength properties of wood and possibly a lot less rigidity because of layer discontinuities).
given the moment of inertia of the structure, plus the loading requirements, the beam is probably overbuilt. And, as the load is along the beam, the wall would act as the moment of inertia of a square. not like the 3d printed face with not enough support.
to make a correct analogy to the insert breaking, grab a sledge hammer and hit the center of the beam the hardest that you can, and let see if the face doesn't break (aka, insufficient support) before every face breaks in conjunction ( as if it was a cohesive object or a shell).
this is a ridiculous test, but it is to show what is the capability of load transfer in one axis.
You are talking specifically about the insert and how it failed while I'm talking part strength in general. Of course a broad "board that's largely hollow needs internal support when loaded at the middle of that "board".
What broke the insert wasn't impact force, but a rapid increase in the load, like it suddenly weighed 20 times more. The insert then caved in because the internal support wasn't strong enough to hold up the top. To make that support strong enough you make it thicker and orient it the right way
To make the insert as strong as possible it would be 100% solid. Less than that you'd want to ensure the internal structure is strong enough to support the top when loaded by a wide margin. You do that by making the bracing thick enough and continuous to act as trusses holding up the top. If the truss deflects sideways, it fails, so it needs to be held vertical via the tri-hex pattern or other pattern that keeps it from deflecting.
The only down side is cost in filament and TIME! YES, it's possible to make an entire band saw (frame would be WEAK POINT) but why?
John, what are your sparse infill settings and you nozzle diameter?
That infill looks at least 1mm
I increased the sparse infill to 1mm and to 25% using either a 0.4mm or 0.6mm nozzle. I also slowed everything down so that the layers have a better chance to fuse together.
You made the comment it looks and feels like a toy... Does that "bother" you vs the touch and feel of wood tools you've built?
Hello John, you're an absolute master and I follow all your videos, but I also hate you too much because you never released plans for the bandsaw. YOU NEVER RELEASE PLANS FOR YOUR BEST INVENTIONS.
I watched a video from MatthiasWandel this morning that is identical footage. So what is up with that? Are you associated with Matthias?
we all know matthias is still alive but he's already rolling in his grave.
John, did you lose some weight? I hope it's intended.