REDGARD FAIL! What did we do WRONG??
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- čas přidán 4. 02. 2019
- I followed instructions, but somehow we must of missed a step because everything cracked and water would have poured right through. Why does Redguard Fail? What did we do wrong?
Did we use too pourous of a surface? Did we lay it on too thick? Was it too high of humidity in the shop?
Anyways, Please comment and let me know your thoughts so we can try it again!
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Thanks for not deleting the video re"guard"less of the comments. There's always something to learn. Personally, I've used the product many times, rolling or painting it on, and it's done a fine job. Thanks for taking the time to produce and post this video.
I'm a painter and you cannot apply any coating that thick and expect it to dry correctly. The corners will take forever to dry because moisture gets trapped under the surface that has already dried, so it has to dry through absorbing into the surface that that you applied it to. And it will also shrink as it dries. .
The problem is two fold. You put it on way to thick, and then recoated before it was dry. What happens is the outside of the coating shrinks as it dries, but underneath it is not dried. So what happens is it will crack due to the drying process. I prefer two coats using a large 3/4inch hot dog roller. It is always better to use multiple thin coats as opposed to a thick coat. This is true with almost all paints and topical coatings.
I hope this is helpful. PS I will be using red guard next week again. It is a fantastic product, and does its job when applied correctly.
That’s for clarifying
Same with nail polish too. Who would have thought 😉
Can you go over it with more Redguard the next day to cover the cracks?
@@rafaelmiranda8935 if you sand it real good first you should be able to
@Rachel Jackson Thanks! I really wasn't expecting anyone to reply hahaha I actually just finished sanding the walls and filled in areas that had deep cracking with laticrete thinset. I wiped the dust off then brushed Redguard on areas that had hairline cracks with a thin coat and so far it looks like it has covered well! Some areas have dried already and it looks like the cracks have not come through again. I'm gonna finish off with a second thin coat and maybe even a third to be on the safe side 😁
I don't think that is a very fair test of red guard. It is supposed to be painted on, and recoated 1 or two times. Putting it on that thick compromises the cure process causing the cracking because it simply isn't made to be put on that thick like it was thinset or something!!! Had you simply painted on three coats with adequate drying time between, you surely would have got different results. StarrTile did a test with red guard on cardboard and it held water for three days!
@@TileCoach yeah in multiple layers, always use a brush or paint roller
@@TileCoach if its 80 sqft per gallon coverage then half coat would be 160 sqft per gallon so you put it on 4 times to thick per coat since you thought its 40 sqft per gallon... you guys are so special... same as your 1000 mm in an inch...
I have put thin layer of Red Guard on Custom Speed Set and got the same reaction. Its not about how thin or thick you put it on, it appears that Red Guard reacts really bad with certain mortars. Take the Custom Prolite for instance, I have never had an issue with applying Red Guard on Prolite or directly on the Schluter membrane
@@alexbeis1861 It's easy to be condescending from the cheap seats
Agreed. And the home depot & handyman comment is insulting.
Good to see lots of feedback here. Even though this test failed it’s just as valuable as someone who shows it successfully being applied. We all know people that consistently fail to read or follow instructions or believe their way is always better. Some people need to see a failure before they believe it. This was a great example to show those types how it fails when not applied properly. Just as in life we often learn more from our mistakes than successes. Humble and honest guys. Great video.
I can attest...in IT, we only learn when things go wrong
It almost looks like it was applied to intentionally fail
I use redgaurd on every shower but use a brush! Never had this problem. I’m doing the card board box with redgaurd test right now going on a week and no leaks. Great product!
@@TileCoach you had a room full of "pros" and not a soul there knew how to apply red guard. What a joke. No wonder you work constantly fails
@@mikecoolcheeseharry5518 This guys are NOT pros, they are just Bros, lol. I watched this video thinking are these guys joking? Wow, epic fail. This is why I no longer hire "Pros" and instead just do the job myself correct the first time.
I used a brush too and wondering if I did it wrong.
So here's the thing it's longevity and percentage based for warranty that means the company's wants a 99% success rate over the warranty period if apply according to directions and that means a thick coating cus the company doesn't want to have to pay for missed pin holes
What water proofing do you use for your wall paneling? The experience I have with red guard is I apply the red guard with 1/2” nap rollers and I do 2 coats on walls and 3 coats on all corners and curb and joints. I think it cracked because it was to thick as well.
I love the gag video. Had me in stitches. Thank you for the entertainment.
I've been using red guard for years wih never an issue and never a call back. Use alkali resistant, self sticking mesh in the corners and seems. Then use a throw away brush and start with a thin coat working it into the substrate. It will be dry in 20 minutes. Then brush a slightly thicker coat on the seams and corners and roll the rest with a throw away 6 inch roller. You can dip it right into the bucket. That will dry in less than an hour. Then repeat with one more coat slightly thicker than the second.
I don't use it as a pan liner. I use a vinyl liner on a wood pre-slope, then mud over, then red guard the mud and walls. It glues the corners so you don't need grout caulk. The standard grout in the corners does not crack.
I used red guard in my bathrooms with thin coats and put in a fan every coat and it works great.
What brand fan did you use and what speed did you set it to?😂
You need to roll it on. StarrTile has a video where he put RedGard on the inside of a cardboard box and it became a completely liquid-tight vessel.
I have only used redgard in one shower installation and it did not fail at all, Applied with roller and brush, worked well. Just redid my own shower and I used a membrane roll system. Maybe others with more redgard experience can chime in. MastertileGA has been using redgard and other topical membranes for years with no issues.
I enjoyed your content... I've been using redguard for about 10yrs now, I first used it on my own shower and I sprayed it on with my paint sprayer... I did 3 coats of redguard with no cracking of the sort... I know spraying wasn't recommended but I said what the hell it was my house lol...
I did the flood test for over a week with no problems at all... That's when I had time to go back to do my tile. I've been under my house a few time and my bathroom floor is dry as a bone... I think the notched trowel isn't the best way to apply the redguard
Never had that happen to me, and I’ve used a ton of red guard...although we don’t use it anymore due to time constraints. We have found that the Kerdi or laticrete sheet or board works a lot better and is quicker to get started on actually making money (laying tile)
There are two reason why I think your test fail: One; it is way too thick, first coat should be very thin almost transparent. Second; you didn't apply enough pressure when flattening the ridges look at (6:40 on) he didn't apply enough pressure at all to make sure it adhere to the cement board, you suppose to press the product down actually hear scraping sound to make sure the product is adhering (that's why most people prefer rolling it on). Redo your test use a roller apply 3 very thin coat you will see a big difference. There is a lot of products out there where people think is no good but it's actually user error.
Thank God for this comment form cause I was having the same problem with cracking on my thin set it covered the walls and benches fine but not the floor I pulled up the red guard from the floor I'm going to re apply it with thinner passes I will let you know how it goes
It’s almost as if you wanted it to fail...3 evenly rolled coats, change directions perpendicular each time. One coat AM, one lunch, one PM. Tile next day. Never fails...
To Weldon, I have a question.
I'm getting ready to apply two coats of the red guard.
I've heard that I have to get all the thinset and tile laid with in 72 hours.
What's the best thing to do.... I've heard the tile will not stick if I wait longer than 72 hours.
These guys are straight up morons
Alex Beis how? Bad product glad they showed us
@@howardlaney1837 The product was not installed properly. Went on too thick. We use this all the time and have never had a leak. I paint it on with a brush or roller 2 to 3 times and it works great. Check out other videos of installs and you will see its a good product.
@@chadmckillop398 I just used it on a shower the other day and everything is good, cut my edges with a brush the rest with a roller, waited until the first coat was dry and proceeded again. Sticking like a charm.
Doing multiple thinner coats at a time and using the fabric in the corners works best with red guard
And using the right fabric in the corners is huge
I use it on Kerdi joints only. Bullet proof installation, given their original warranty of no leaks with unmodified thinset to overlaps and Kerdiband. Getting the tile right is a whole 'nuther story. Waterproofing of the shower area is pretty basic these days. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Well worth checking out. You do good work.
watched your video and while I do love redgard and use it in many areas I never use it as a pan liner. Laticrete is the product of choice for pan liner where a paint on is needed. By the way my background is that I have been working in the tile industry since 1993. Redgard is great to use over non critical areas. when going over any masonry it is vital to remove all dust via sponge and dry before application. also multiple thin layers have never cracked out for me. my main use is as a reinforcing water proofing over hardie backer board around the step of showers and in the 90 degree joints. Again in those areas it is not needed but I used as and additional degree by choice. As to why yours cracked out, one thought is that if there was any dust the redgard would not bond to the surface so as it drys it contracts causing cracks. Any way I am glad to see other people testing products. Keep moving forward it is how we build quality in our craft and it shows we care about what we do and who we serve after all each customer is our boss.
All liquid applied barriers we do a water cut primer coat. With a roller and brush. Will be ready for first coat within an hour. Full rolled second coat takes about 4 hours to dry. We put a box fan on it. Final coat by end of day and ready to go in the morning. All corners need to be taped. Never had an adhesion issue crack or bubble. We have used red guard , laticrete and Mapai , I use them for walls only though. We do regular deck mud / liner pans. But we do membrane about 6” onto the pan.
Hey buddy, I have a question. Can I apply redgard on Kerdi membrane?.
I had a concrete contractor use this on two month old fresh concrete with no vapor barrier between soil and concrete. He used it as a vapor barrier for an epoxy overlay on a shop floor? Thoughts
I’m confused on applying the preslope Kerdi shower pan Which thin set should I use.??Also with thin set should I use to apply the membrane application. Will the thin set properly cure behind the membrane???
It’s like hydro ban. Surface must be super clean no dust. Roller works better, 3coats. It seam like your first coat was a little bit thick. I roll it then smooth out with trowel.fan helps also.
Never seen redguard take 6hrs to dry. Coat was definitely too thick. We have never tried the notch trowel application...
I have used this material on several shower project’s over the last seven years as a retired contractor. I have applied it over cement board and the relatively new poly/styrene materials. The last two projects I also used it on the shower slope on top of one inch base cement. I did all corners with normal joint tape and unsanded joint material. in some cases at the bottom the mesh cloth.In my case , I used cheap four inch foam rollers to apply the material on walls and floors rolling each coat out. Overall, I applied five coats over three days as I worked in other areas of the project. When finished, you have a thickness of about one business card. First and second coats, be sure to work into voids and bubble areas. Next three are just to build the membrane thickness. Works for me!!
Good Lord, that dude with the trowel acted like he was icing a cake! And, yes, "tilecoach", when you apply it with a roller, the roller is supposed to "ROLL" the redguard on like paint! If the roller isn't rolling, you are again putting it on too thick!! Think of it like painting something, several thin coats are better than one thick coat!
I apply first coat and let dry for a few hours. Second coat I let "cure" over night.
Hello watching your video I wanna ask about the red gard how to use after we filled up all the joint cement board using the mortar my question is do I need to apply the waterproofing membrane in whole shower wall or just a joint cement board I filled up with mortal..thanks for the answer
i do 3-4 thin coats.sometimes ill get pitting, but that from the backerboard. ive never had it crack on me like ur vid?
Wow so many haters, you read the directions and followed them, then it failed , then respectfully asked for advice, Total respect for you guys... love the videos. I also a nor cal guy.
BTW, those cracks are from shrinking, either the base material shrank or the top material was too thick and shrank. But you def helped me , I will definitely do a test before I "lay it on",
Isaac, my thoughts are, your video confirmed for me what the thumbnail already told me- which is the coat was TOO thick. I often teach my young apprentices that a thinned down coat will always adhere better than a thick coat. We can easily test this hypothesis by putting a thick drop of paint on any surface, then right next to it apply a very light thinned down smear and really rub it in. Come back in a few days and the thick droplet can easily be peeled up with your fingernail, while the super thinned down coat will need sand paper or mechanical process to remove. Hope that helps and good luck in your future projects! really enjoy the informative videos :)
I have used this product behind tile on shower walls, i rolled it on 2 coats on top of sheet rock i have been curious as to how waterproof it is i have never had it crack on sheetrock never used it on cement or hardibacker
Question... I have a slab in bedroom. Moisture is evident and won't dry 100% that showed up after grinding high area. What can I use? Red guard not bonding. Also Can O apply leveling compound to the product?
I applied with a roller. After the first coat I noticed cracking overt the hardibacker seams that were spliced with quick set concrete beneath. It did not adhere to the seams!
It's a whole lot easier using a roller and paint brush for the corners. I used this in all my showers, works great, hasn't leaked as far as I know. Great videos guys.
Key words "as far as I know".
Can't remember how many showers we've done after coating with RedGuard. We always use a 4 inch brush, apply like painting a wall. About 2 hours it's completly red and dry Then apply 1 or 2 more coats as needed. We set fans on it to speed up the drying. Love this stuff, works great!!
i enjoyed this review of red guard application. I believe you followed the application instructions correctly as as they were labeled on the product.The problem is in the way you were directed as per the labeling . You put it on too thick .
Using a trowel dont work for me either. As the red guard dries it shrinks. That's why you got the cracking and pinholes. i prefer to use re-enforcing fabric in corners and any change of plane .2-3 coats with a roller and proper dry time in between coat works well. if you dont have a roller a brush will do. throw them away when you are done.
A jack of all trades is a master of none but oftentimes better than a master of one. Thats the complete quote.
I have used Redguard many times, and other similar products as well, and will continue to use them. I tried the trowel method once and quickly decided I would never do that again, and I actually wondered why they would even print that on the label? Having many relatives with many decades of experience in painting (actually centuries of experience if you add all of their years together) I have always known the best method to get a thick coating, is multiple thin coats. And with some extras thrown in for different purposes, it is essentially just latex paint. You can treat it basically like latex paint.
I used to live in the desert and never had an issue with getting any of these products to dry. In fact most of the time , by the time I got all the way around a shower applying a coat, it was already dry where I started. Then I moved to the land of the sweaty air, and the first shower I did, I watched and waited all afternoon and the first coat didn't dry. I returned the following day and parts of it still were not dry ( corners and anywhere it was a little thicker ) . The humidity here is somewhere around a thousand percent or something like that. Blinking and breathing are strenuous enough to make you sweat in the summertime! I got a fan and with that it dried pretty quickly, and the next coat dried pretty quickly and evenly. The second coat always dries slower because it can only evaporate, where the substrate (walls or floor) will soak up much of the moisture from the first coat.
Yes it is a time consuming process, but I have found it to be reliable. Also I am not in the high volume, production end of the spectrum. I am old. I hurrrt. Emphasis on huurrrttt! I don't want to run anymore
Thank you for asking "what did we do wrong?" Most people will never do that. They will just say "yeah I tried that once and it was garbage", and that's the end of it. And if we're being honest, you didn't actually do anything wrong. You read the directions right off of their own label. Which I personally feel are misleading...
I used a whole piece of wonder board 3x5 a long time ago. 3 years to be exact.
I still have that piece of board outside 24/7 and use it as a slider door on my back patio.!
I’m surprised it has not peeled of after all the rains and sun exposure plus an everyday use as a “door”. I trust this product just apply it as thin as possible multiple coats.
Love watching and learning but I have no idea on what shower system works or how they should be installed seams you find a problem with all of them?
When it comes to warranties I think we are on our own. These corps design their warranties to not pay so it is my responsibility to find products and methods that I trust because in the end failure is on me. So with that in mind I'd go with 4:1 sealer coat and two thin top coats completely dried between applications.
Going back to your Kerdi tests and forgetting about manufacturer warranties, I'd be curious if Red Guard over the Kerdi bands would seal those corners.
Thank you for your videos, I'm sure they are a lot of work but they are awesome.
Mix and spray. 3 or 4 even, thin coats. Cover an entire shower in minutes, cleanup a breeze. Also drys much faster than rolling. If going on floor, the only place I'll goop it up is around the flange prior to install, then I'll smooth the excess and cover the floor working my way from the flange to walls/threshold. Otherwise it's awesome that you guys experiment in house, testing the limits (and beyond) of some products. I'm sure you've already saved someone from making the same mistake.
“a jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one.”
Lol I never seen someone trowel it on like that 😂😂😂😂
In the beginning there was Tripleflex. Remember?
Used to apply same way. Ever use home depots version of Ditramat? Junk. ......and the Custom products are a joke too in my opinion. TEC, Laticrete, Ardex, etc are really the only way to go unless the customer insists then make em sign a waiver ......and u were never there if anybody asks. Then again, why do the job if not confident. Aloha🤙
1mm is .040
Handyman method bro 😂
@@larrygeordan5747 RG is one product that is actually really good quality from HD. Also Custom SLC is just fine. Polyblend is ok. Mapei 4:1 is the bomb only bostik dry pack is better. Laticrete thin sets are amazing but their floor mud sucks. Hydroban is king but aqua d dries before you can even get the damn anti fracture membrane up.
@@juanramirez-lr8fk actually no, it’s a valid method to waterproof. But this video install is done wrong and you definitely Have to know what you’re doing for it to be successful
do you think it is necessary to put walterprofing in shower pan
Does it need to be mixed up good like paint ?
Hi Isaac, I hardly use REDGUARD , my weapon of choice is HYDROBARRIERE from Laticrete - blue stuff. However each of those products acts the same way and works similar. Over the years I observed same situation - cracking and pealing off when I accidentally dropped membrane somewhere on floor and left to dry (thick bubble) or filing gaps larger than 3/16" - also to thick coat! This is why it is essential to combine any waterproofing topical membrane with fiberglass mesh tape - especially where boards meets, corners , built-in niches etc.. This areas always have bigger gaps and membrane will simply crack if layer of membrane is to thick ( greater than 1/8 -3/16") . If you chose to use liquid membrane you have to let one thin layer dry before applying second coat, and use of fiberglass mesh ( not the type that you used around drain on this video, but actual fiberglass ) in every corner is a must. In one of my recent videos I am showing exact same application to yours ( on shower pan and curb) , but combined with fiberglass mesh tape with exceptional results, maybe you saw that video..? Any way, I have been using topical membrane and traditional pan liner ever since - I never experienced any leaks or issues when done correctly... You aske about opinion - I gave you my honest opinion in this subject. Cheers - Michael
P.s. I also observed that more liquidly membranes has tendency to crack easier when drying - this is why I am preferring Laticrete product because consictency is way thicker than redguard - easier to apply on walls, less messy and not cracking as much as red stuff....
@@TileCoach czcams.com/video/-Ql2xnSU1b8/video.html
Can I use a tile adhesive over redguard ?
I’m kind of shocked you guys didn’t already know how and why to use this product.
Great video and comments- really important to know what an go wrong. Thanks
Hello CZcams's when can I apply rearguard on my concreat shower pan bc website said 28days to cure ,thanks
Thanks for this demo , my take ,,,, yes you waist 2 days minimum with this stuff thats why I do it at the end of the day let it dry over night and the next day 1more coat first thing in the morning with fan on and at the end of the day one more coat so its 3 coats all together, and I use a brush 4 inch. Now if for any reason there is still moister in the pan or any other corner redgard will crack and take its time to dry and then when its fully dry you will be able to peel it of real easy in those places , THAT SHOULD NOT HAPPEN. But I have learned to work with it for many years and thank God no problems ever , not that it can't happen but thats why I take my time to insure 100 % . This is my take and I respect others opinion on this product and others ,,,, again thanks for all theses great videos best regards.
I think I would reserve redgard for wall waterproofing and stick with a pvc or like membrane in mortar bed for floors. It looks like the test in the video was applied quite thick. Maybe thinner coats for 3 or four coats would cure faster.
Did you contact the manufacturer?
"We never followed the instructions, so why everything cracked out is a mystery to me." lmao!
How long did they let mud cure before red guard application?
I applied three layers with a brush (following directions on drying times) and it worked great.
How do you not know about other water proofing materials?
I use HPG on all our showers. Tried red guard once and saw the cracks and said F that! Scrapped it all off and did real shit... it costs 2 times as much but I am getting $85 sqr ft on my showers so i won’t use anything less then HPG and ultra flex 2...
I cannot believe the amount of failures your experiencing. Your procedures need overhauled and you gotta climb out of that box your in.
Most contractors would have bailed out and went back to corporate America. I appreciate you sticking with it cause it’s just gunna be more work for me down the road... Thankyou for creating my
Retirement fund
I had the same experience. I used the v-knotched trowel as the instructions and applied according to the instructions. The membrane ended up cracking open all over the place. I decided to get rid of it and use a different product. I must have done something wrong too. It seems like the trowel option doesn't work but for the roller option so many people in the comments are ok with their experience.
I've never used it as a pan, but will apply to CBU on walls when doing a tub/shower or a shower with a pre-made pan. I like that CBU won't deteriorate in wet areas, but dont trust it as a waterproofer. If water gets behind the tile I want the CBU to have Kerdi-like qualities.
I either use a chip brush or a cheap roller cover to apply 2-3 coats on walls. I get about 55-70 SF per gallon coverage. I've never seen the cracking you experienced.
Multiple thin layers I believe is the way to go just like when u paint something. As long as your mill thickness in the end is the same as manufacturers requirements for warranty.
The red guard didn't fail. You failed.
It's disturbing that the directions tell you one thing, but everyone who uses it tells you not to do that.
Just finished using RedGard in 100 sq. ft. shower. Used PROVA Joint Waterproofing Strip on all corners and seams. Rolled on 2 gallons of RedGard over Hardi backerboard with 3/4 in. nap roller. Applied three thin coats in different directions each time. I believe multiple thin coats are key and giving each coat plenty of time to cure between applications, (I had the time), because after letting it thoroughly dry you can see whether you have enough coverage. Again, because I had the time, I much preferred this method because of the cost savings over Kerdi and I think it turned out great
Great video! I will say I have used liquid membranes for ten years and never had a problem. I even started deleting the pan liner seven years ago and still no problems. I use tec and latacrete products for my showers. I have found that rolling the membrane is much better. You have to have a prime coat first though. I roll three coats on the pan then caulk the edges before the third coat. I'm not a big fan of sheet membranes because one air pocket on the edge will render it useless. Showers are not meant to go in fast. The faster you do it the more mistakes you can make. Just my opinion. I have never been a custom fan so these results don't surprise me.
Agreed, 100%. Ive been a huge fan of Mapelastic HPG, personally, and have NEVER had a failure.
Just to note, RG is essentially an acrylic paint and both shrinkback and priming (as noted by most commenters) are inevitable flaws that Custom tries not to highlight. HPG is more of a synthetic rubber (with solvents to prevent polymerization until cure) but it's still susceptible to shrinkback if applied too thick (>40mil). With Meipei, I can achieve three thin layers (flat trowel only) in one application at the end of prep day, and be ready for tile by morning.
no pan liner? you hot mop at least?
i think the coat was too think. i think you need lots of thin coats. What is the moisture content of the cement? thanks
@@TileCoach i think it was too thick. moisture meter of the cement????????/
@@TileCoach maybe some residue from the kerdi. try just regular mud pack. maybe?
Thinner coats and wipe everything down( dust free)
I used a rough brush for the corners and a roller for the flat areas. Change directions on the second coat . No problems at all , worked as advertised.
Try to mix the redgard with water and then brush it on your mortar bed. It will sink in better and stick very well. You can mix it with water and spray it on if you have larger areas to cover. Also if applying to drywall or mud. Prime it first twice with a good paint primer to make sure the redgard stick to the surface.
Unfortunately you put it on way to thick.
I wonder if it would benefit to apply the first coat and leave the notches to make sure of consistant application, let it dry and then once dry, go over top the first coat and just fill in to the top of the ridges for a sure consistancy. We always use Kurdi so I dont know if this would work or not.
Isaac Ostrom Maybe the ridges would cause cracking after the second coat the more I think about it haha not sure. But thanks, maybe kurdi is just the way to go. Time is money
C'mon Starr Tile, you know you want to. I think they're waiting for it.
He doesn't have to. Isaac's numerous fail videos, and fail tests are proof enough. Except one.. the redguard test, which didn't fail. Hmmm.
Hello...! Do you know why you can not use Pre-mixed ceramic tile adhesive...??? There is no explanation for that....Thanks..!
😂
Never used a notch trail to apply the red guard...I've always used rollers for big areas an brush for corners. An once that first coat dries apply another coat an check an see if it's at 30mils
I use this to waterproof my niches it works great for that. I try not to use I for pans but I have when I needed to. I could have done that in several hours with a roller and a fan.
I’m 3 years late but hope this helps someone. What we do is apply a primer over the dry pack with a mixture of red gard and water mixed. We roll it or brush it depending on size of the area. That primer is absorbed into the dry pack and creates a coat in which the red gard full strength bonds to it perfectly and evenly. The primer drys very quick and if we’re in a hurry we use a fan to dry it faster and can apply up to 3 coats not including the primer in one day when doing commercial restrooms or wet areas . Water test can happen 1 or 2 days later depending how dry it is. Been doing it this way since we started using red gard and haven’t had a fail yet.
We also use mesh or fabric for the base and pie cut all drains . Local 4 so cal out!👊🏽
Custom actually makes a Redgard Speedcoat, it's oil based and dries in cold weather better. I think they said a half hour per coat? Mil thickness requirements are way thinner for it, they say one gallon of it is equal to 2.5 gallons of normal Redgard coverage-wise. The guy on the phone at Custom told me not to bother with it and just use normal Redgard for my tub surround (later I got a good deal on an opened gallon of Aquadefense, so it was moot.) It's meant to be combined with their "speed slope" mortar, that also dries in an hour, so theoretically with it you could do a mud shower in a day with it, it can also be mixed to a wetter consistency to build one hour drying mud walls. Seems right up your alley, actually.
In Germany, we have similar products, It so wacht out as the primer was missing.
The only thing I can think of is he didn't slightly dampen the porous pre slope 1st and may be the temperature hit 40ﾟ or below at some point? The instructions tell you not to install it at 40ﾟ temperature but who knows may be it the temperature range you are at it was still close enough to be a problem. Also was that Flynn said that was installed how long before that was uninstalled? It still have moisture in it?
can i use it as a fifi liner?
Interesting, was there anywhere that said that the base should be primered first? Thats what the non stick seems like to me.
How does everyone here know their showers didnt fail?? I have done a shower with zero waterproofing, does not leak or smell of mold. I did it wrong and wouldnt do it again. But nothing is wrong that I can tell and it's been 5 years. I'm not about to tear it out to see if it "failed".
Other than that....good testing my man!
mikebsexy
You won’t find out until the grout breaks down starts to crack and the water gets behind the tile. That’s what the water proofing is for.
@@smash72cutlass30 I have a mortar bed, liner and preslope. It will take a few more years I'm afraid then. Plus rain shower head...not much direct water hitting walls, just the humidity
Honestly your substrate was the problem in my experience red guard has cracked on me when you apply it on wet surfaces that are not completely dry yet otherwise it would have dry within a hour with a little fan. I don’t know but your pan look kind of damp.
I agree you can see the red guard lifting mortar when he peels it.
I think the liquid waterproofer directions sort of overcomplicate the process, though if you really wanted to make sure, you're better using a credit card mil gauge. But they're actually sort of simple to use, just do two or three thinner coats with a brush and roller, let the coats fully dry between each coat, and stop once it's all one consistent color almost like a normal wall paint. That and the mesh tape meant to be used with it is a six inch dryer sheet consistency tape, not drywall style tape (though Custom in videos sometimes shows drywall style tape?) I think the trowel method would really only apply for a mortar bed with a thick aggregate, and even then you'd still want to knock it down a lot more than this guy did, this guy seemingly just sort of smooshed it around, and didn't key it in hard or knock it down hard. I'm guessing this guy's dry thickness is 3-4mm in some spots, with one coat, I don't know totally for Redgard what directions are but Mapei only advocates 20 mils dry thickness, or about as thick as a credit card (maybe 1.5mm?) for Aquadefense dry.
how many tile guys does it take to put on red guard?
I have used this all the time you put it in to thick. I use a roller the first time I go one vertical the the second time I go horizontal and it works great.
I just did my new bathroom shower. Used roller and brush for corners. Bathroom temp was probably 72 degrees, I was able to get 3 coats done in one day, about 90 min to dry red each coat. Been a week since I put it on, no cracks.
Correct me if I’m wrong but temperature plays a big key on man made products, just like when painting a car , if you don’t have correct temperature your paint will fail !
I applied it to cdx board for my aquaponics sprout shelves and I rolled it on. So far its holding up really well. I did not follow the instructions initially because my forman at the time told me to roll it on. I got say I'm glad I rolled it on. It dries quicker it adhesive to itself really well. So applying a few or 5 coats will save the hassle. However i live in San Diego so my dry time is pretty quick. 10mins- 30min in perfect conditions. 1hr-12hrs depending on weather and time.
Idk if your thinset was fully cured or not but idk how it peeled off. I can never get that shit off once it dries. Either way I roll it on, two coats in a cross hatched pattern. One bucket gets me thru a standard tub.
I agree with a few other comments that if it is applied in thin coats it works fine, but if it reads that it can be troweled on then you should be able to do it, but your right it takes to long, we always let each coat dry over night and never had any problems....that we know of.
Man, you guys are catching all kinds of hell for this test! Keep your videos coming! I love learning different ways to do things. Don't listen to the haters. Thanks for all the info!
Hey Issac - just applied too thick... RedGard is a great product - try again and you'll like it
Issac I think thin coats are the way to go although I have never used it as a pan liner . I like to use it over hardibacker and especially on the curb
I had the same issue and it was solved by using a fiberglass mesh in between 2 coats of redgard. First I applied redgard on my substrate, then I applied the mesh on top of the fresh redgard covering all seams and corners and I did another coat on top of the mesh and that solved the problem of having cracks and fissures after it dried. I hope this helps.
Thats why I have my hot mopper lol
Nice video
And the only time I don’t hotbmop cause it’s in a building in downtown LA
And I’ll use a liner and float the shower
I rolled a gallon of Hydra flex onto a 30×30 shower in several coats and it's tighter than bark on a tree.
You ever see a birch tree? Lol
After a few years after building a shower with Redgaurd over drywall I have to report that it will it deterierate and become a mold issue. It's better to use cement board because it will always dry if it gets wet. AND you want a pre-slope for the same reason . Drying capabilities are important
I use this product for walls, but would not consider it for a pan. Thin coats, then reapply. Then reapply, until good coverage.
What do you think of tile and epoxy grout? I've heard if you use epoxy grout and tile, it doesn't matter what's underneath.
Also, could you try Laticrete's Hyrdoban next?
Oh it absolutely does matter what is underneath. Tile and grout are only intended to be a waste resistant system, never to be used as the waterproof layer.
Most bakes tiles are only waterproof in the glazing, which often doesn't carry down the edge of the tile. Any chip, crack, or exposed edge can introduce water behind the tile.
Most important rule: If you wouldn't trust it before the tile goes on, then it's not ready for tile
@@snytty so is epoxy grout good insurance or a waste of money in terms of waterproofing?
It's kind of a pain in the rear end to install, but it's certainly a good product and can only help add another layer of protection
Epoxy grout has great holding and resistance power, even spot applied tiles if combined with epoxy grout will hold with time and will be leak free, and if any crack ever develops that will be crack on tile than grout line. The catch though, not all tile with non-glazed surface can be used with it, as cleaning it from something like natural stone, or texture tile is almost impossible if some neglect happens. That is why the most of videos of its application on youtube feature glazed tile.
good videos buddy, I never use red guard in my jobs just dont work what i would recommend is Dragon skin or Mapei product