1995-2008 Ford Ranger Blower Motor Resistor Speed Control
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2010
- Part Used Without New Wiring Harness:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
Part Used With New Wiring Harness:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
or complete kit:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q...
Click the above link to find the blower resistor for your vehicle.
In this video you'll learn to repair and replace the blower resistor as well as the pigtail connection. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Saying thanks from 2022 man I appreciate it, bought a ranger and the previous dude had removed so much stuff and wired up the most random things! Been figuring out the missing parts but I had two pigtails that have no home, you just helped me find the solution for one of them and I am very thankful dude.
This is exactly where the resistor is located in my 1990 Ford F-150. Thank you.
Watched your video and was able to install the new one myself. Works perfectly now. Thank you for that.
This was a great. I bought the pigtail, and it had colored wires. But, the colored wires did NOT match those on the old pigtail! Only had HIGH and LOW for four years. Perfect video for me, thanks and keep posting
Thanks for making this video. It was very helpful!
I also use liquid electrical tape on the exposed soldered splices, then heat shrink the tubing over the liquid electrical tape while it's still drying. Makes for a completely waterproof wiring splice.
Thank you so much for your video. Easy to understand Thank you.
Good video. It was much tighter in my 2004. One note, the "diode" is actually a thermal fuse. Make sure that it is not touching the resistor coil next to it, or it may blow prematurely.
Did this yesterday on my 2006 Ford Ranger.. was really tough getting the screws out.. just tight getting a socket wrench on them and holding it.. couldn't disconnect the connector as it was totally rusted in place too so that made access even tighter.. tried spraying the connector WD40 and contact cleaner and couldn't free it up, so just re-wired a new pigtail too... it went in a lot easier than coming out...
Great Video!
Thank You you just saved me a few hundred dollars
Thanks this was very helpful.
thanks for watching!!
Yes it was very helpful, one thing after the fact, the resistors on the old pack is mounted on fiberglass it seems, after examining it later I found tiny hairs of glass in my finger, beware! Try not to handle it with bare fingers
Will the resistor cause the blower to not blow much volume? All speeds work, it just doesn't move much air on high,
Quick question
could I just replace the resistor or do I have to replace both connector and resistor?
I have a 2001 ford ranger and just did this but didn't do the connector.. which connector did you use.. there are a ton on that site .
When I search for ford ranger nothing pops up.
Thanks,
-Nigel
VERY DIFFICULT in a 2003 Ranger. There is a big gas/throttle unit on fender in front of blower. I had to remove it, and also the Washer and Coolant reservoirs are much larger than in this video. You can barely get your hands into the space for the resistor. I had to unplug lots of wires to access the resistor, but got it. Old one was very rusty.
here's another problem that can happen. The wiring harness at the "relay fuse box" can wear, causing a wire or two, to become disconnected. I had it happen to me, as I replaced a few parts, and none of them helped out. I replaced the connector and wire and it worked. So, others coming here. check the wiring harness under the 'relay fuse box" just in case.
If you have problems with the connectors 1. put some Penetrating fluid on them 2. let it soak 3. Pull firm and slow. Just buy the right parts and go slow and you can Avoid cutting a soldering like this video
the 1999 should also be the same. Ford was nice enough to keep the basic chassis and electrical of the ranger the same for a long long time, so what works on one year, will often work on a very wide range of years.
hola amigo como puedo limpiar el adentro de blower
I dont have current going to the plug
What could it be?
I had no air blowing through vents, i did replace the resistor and the connector as well. The ac started working normally again but it lasted just two days. Now, I am unsure what to look at. Could it be the fan? the fan has continuity, maybe the fan failed this second time? any comments appreciate it.
+Ya Tu No Quie Ni Trabaja I would start with checking for voltage and ground at the blower motor.
Yep, the 2000 should be extremely similar if not identical to this procedure.
Good video, but you need some soldering schooling. Terrible.
haha thank you,
Help Pig tail has no power o already check the fuse
Function of the flusher relay
Ugh THANK YOU. But now I realized i have a vacuum leak causing my vents to default to defrost at higher rpms. great. thanks, ford for using a vacuum system for this. wtf were they thinking?
Hi, did u find the vaccum leak for your issue?
@@ephrain92 i did. The person before me had installed locking 4wd hubs. When they did that, they did not plug the vacuum lines that would have connected the stock vacuum switch hubs. Once i plugged those lines my problem went away.
No flux?
quick question- my fan motor was not acting up, it worked fine last night. When I started the car this morning, it would not work. When I turn the selector, I could hear what sounded like a door opening, but the fan is not blowing at all. Is there a fuse that I should check first, or should I replace the resistor/pigtail? Im just wondering what else it could be? Thanks for the great video.
If you have zero fan speeds, then the blower motor may have failed. You can unplug the blower motor and then supply 12 volts to it and see if the motor spins at all. If you supply direct 12 volts to it and nothing happens, then the motor is failed. Check closely around the wiring for the blower resistor. if it looks overheated or melted, then you would want to replace the blower motor, resistor and the wiring.
Here is a link to the complete kit on AMZ:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q01W3OE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00Q01W3OE&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=TBUF2XKKLV2YYSJB
Thanks a lot. The fan ended up working a few hours later which leads me to believe that is the harness. I'll change it out soon. Thanks for the help. Will be ordering parts from you soon.
+i like my women and subs 6&12
you are a douche. get a life. This is what you do, this post is a year old. what a loser.
does this video also apply to a 2000 ford ranger?
It is very very similar
It's good you're using solder... however the joints look atrocious.... heat shrink helps immensely. Proper wiring job! I give it a 4.3/5. I docked points based on using a torch/heat gun for soldering... it's easy to burn the insulation off the wires and even burn the wires themselves if not careful which will add resistance to the circuit and weaken the integrity of the connection. A simple soldering iron can be purchased for less than $10 at a hardware or hobby retail store. Be sure to contact the wire joint with the soldering iron as you heat up the joint... place the solder on the joint away from the iron...once the wire joint receives the correct amount of heat the solder will melt like butter evenly across the entirity of the exposed wire and even make it's way in between the strands creating a clean, even, and secure joint. For each solder joint, perform a "tug test" to ensure joint integrity and if succeeded will create a connection without adding resistance as well as ensure that the wiring job will outlast the vehicle. It takes a little extra time but it's worth it to guarantee you only perform this job once with peace if mind! Its also worthwhile to note that there are several types of solder out there... a simple rosin-core would do the trick here. Other than that... great video and presentation. Keep it up.
Hello, I have an 03 Ranger xlt. The blower has stopped working all together, will a new resistor fix it?? The blower motor was acting funny before it went out. Any help Thank you.......
If the blower motor was "acting funny" beforehand, then you may need a blower motor and resistor. You would have to test the blower motor and if it is noisy or pulls more amperage then it is supposed to, then it can cause the resistor to burn out in which case you would need both parts.
The blower motor may be failed and should be tested. You can unplug it and test it by supplying 12 volts to it and see if the motor spins at full speed. If it does not, then you need a new blower motor. check the blower resistor wiring harness for overheating, if it is hot or melted, then replace the resistor and wiring also. All of these parts are very inexpensive and they all work together.
Here is the whole kit:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q01W3OE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00Q01W3OE&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=TBUF2XKKLV2YYSJB
Ford xlt ranger....2000...blower motor stops time to time when truck is shut off...tap
And restarted...tapped with hammer...works again ..bad fan blower?
If you are tapping the actual blower motor and it is coming on, then the blower motor is failing. It is the same as tapping a starter motor or w window motor. If it runs like that for long enough, it can cause excessive current draw through the circuit and can damage the wiring harness and the blower resistor. So if you replace the blower motor, make sure to thoroughly inspect the wiring and the resistor
Thanks..it seemed to work today...now that it is warmer here...I'm not as rushed to fix it...noted the current draw..I don't want to put fan motor replacement off too long as to damage harness and resistor....as for my fuel gage not working .....that requires a tank drop? Correct? Not an easy layman project...would a garage mechanic charge around 500 for fixing the fuel gage ...? Due to labor...thanks for your help....and my air bag light flashed 3 times I think when I started truck ....then it stayed on during driving....fuse? Or more? Would it pass inspection in pa.? If that isn't corrected ....? Thanks for your expertise
Both of the other problems can be diagnosed to find out for sure, The fuel gauge not working is most commonly caused by the fuel tank sending unit level sensor wearing out. So yes you would have to drop the tank to change it, It is a complete fuel pump assembly, sometimes you can fix the level sensor or replace it, but dropping the tank to inspect the pump is required. The airbag light can be diagnosed for sure, but again a common failure is the clock spring which is located in the steering wheel under the horn. If the horn button also doesn't work, then you can be pretty sure the clock spring is failed and that will turn on an airbag light. If the horn works fine, then you may want to have it diagnosed.
Horn doesn't work...okay thanks...great advice and I appreciate your responses.
how does one replace one on a 2006 ford ranger
It is very very similar and located in the same area
The heat shrink is to cover up that horrid looking soldering job 😂😂
No no... hes got a point. View my review of the video and itll be made clear.
Wow 💕🤙📱😳🤗
And the reason you order the pigtail also is the old one will not come of the module without breaking wires......YUP!!!!
yeaup, it get hot from the extra amperage being pulled through it and then it gets brittle and eventually breaks
no no no it just does not come out with a tug had to remove the resistor then break the tabs to get off now i am left stranded with no connection and no new pig tail to replace broken one.... so all is not easy to do
David Clouthier Its not this gentlemans fault your not a mechanic.. those connectors are made to pull up and pull out, if you broke it u put way too much pressure that was uneccessary to remove it.. better luck next time lol. U get ehat u pay for from watching a youtube video with 0 experience..
Why solder? Why not just use butt connectors. Easier and more sturdy.
not 8mm
bullshit! i got a 99, i had to screw the freakin thing out and it still wont come off. how the fuck do you make it looks so easy?