Seized Clutch Fan Removal 2002-2006 T1N Sprinter
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- čas přidán 13. 01. 2021
- In this video, Bill removes the clutch fan that seized up on him mid trip. If your clutch fan seizes and your van sounds like a dump truck, don't panic. As long as you don't let your temperatures rise too much it's safe to run the van until you can replace it.
Always buy OEM for this part from Million Mile Sprinter:
Fan Clutch WITH BLADES: www.millionmilesprinter.com/p...
Fan Clutch ONLY: www.millionmilesprinter.com/p...
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Thanks guys, super big help watching your videos.
Thank you
Thanks for the video!
I the panel that the bonnet, hood closes into is only held on with 4 bolts, if you remove them the radiator can be pulled a few inches forward,
Just did mine after replace (2003 ,156000 mile) a rebuild fuel pump. tanks for ur tutorial on pump rebuild. So I found to remove the two lrg bolts at the end of the beam holding the radiator in place. The use two 2' wood pole to push the and separate the shroud and radiator to get 3' 4' more inches to wk with. For what it's worth. I like ur fan hold method u used. Another great heads up! !
Made my own pulley holder , you can also buy them for like 20 bucks too, I also have used a chain vice grip
I've bought 3 so far, and none of them fit.
The EverTough Adjustable Fan Clutch Holding Tool (67065) worked perfectly for me, but it won’t fit without first removing the plastic fan blades from the fan clutch and that’s not easy without tipping out the radiator. A stubby 5 mm hex allen wrench might get out the three bolts holding the blades to the clutch, but good luck getting the bolts back in. If the radiator is tipped out, torque the three bolts back in to 9 Nm.
new to the 2500 sprinter world. appreciate your videos, my first comment is a recommendation. I'm going to change the injector seal on back injector. I am going to do the water pump too. Do you recommend changing all the pulleys too and the fan if I get the engine all open? its like a $100 fix injector fix could turn into a couple hundi real fast if i do. Vans got 175k miles
Water pump requires drinking the fluids so it makes sense to replace the coolant hoses at this time. The injector seal requires taking the injector out so naturally this is the time ot test the injectors at OcalaDiesel.com or other Bosch Authorized center capable. If the one that needs to be replaced comes out without too much trouble, put a cork or paper towel in the hole and work on the next one coming forward. With mount 175k it is likely they have never been out so it's time to test them and replaces seals.
How short do you cut the Allen wrench so that it clears the rad but also still engages the bolt head?
I didn't cut it. I bought a stubby wrench. We have a link for it on our products page. floridavanman.com/links
Dude you are becoming a Sprinter guru. But can you tell me with your advice already given, how much abuse the serpentine belt can take? You have demonstrated serious ingenuity with your "hold the pulley/tensioner" block´n tackle.
BTW: My van works, there is no oil cap dance. Though I do have things to do...it´s a 2001 2.7 liter James Cook camper.
Also, consider yourself lucky to be living in Florida, even if you are one of Susan Wojciki´s favorites.
I've seen serpentine belts swell to 150% from soaking in diesel dripping from the high pressure fuel pump. Laid in the sun for 3 days and it was fine. In another recent video I found out how to snap a serpentine belt when the a/c compressor seized-up. They definitely are not indestructible, but they will put up with a lot of my B.S., for sure!
Why did you remove the belt exactly? Was it just because the clutch was seized? If I replace a worn out clutch do I still need to remove the belt?
I find it very hard to hold the pulley and turn the bolt, while the belt is still on. The belt doesn't hold it tight enough to break the bolt loose but it gets in the way of trying to hold the screw-heads (if you have that tool). The belt really interferes with the ratchet strap method of holding the pulley.
I just bought T1n and stuck in a mountain Canadian Rockies town. The problem is I only have an "in-transit" 7 days out of province/state insurance with 2 days left. I'm 8 hours normal driving speed to get across the border to my mechanic to do the out-of-province/state inspection.
My fan is loose and doesn't spin so it doesn't cool. I saw a guy do a hack that might work to lock the fan to spin as a fixed 1-1 with the shaft. Do you think this would cause my sprinter problems running with full blast cooling for that long?
Not at all. Lock it in there and GO! A big washer on the bolt will do the job for locking it and you may hear the rushing air. No worry! Many fans fail this way, locked 1:1 and folks don't notice. It may take longer to reach optimum operating temperature, but the fan always spins on *low speed. This only locks it on *hi speed.
@@FloridaVanMan Awesome. Thanks. :)
My fun clutch seems to be sized up when engine is cold and I try to spin it by hand but is really hard to move, does it mean I need a new fun clutch??
It should be hard to turn, even when cold. If you spin it by hand and it keeps spinning after taking hand out, that's bad. They can seize up and only spin by slipping on the belt. That's bad too.
@@FloridaVanMan yep it was seized in my belt it was not spinning at all by hand when cold neither when hot but if I understand fun clutches are harder to spin by hand when engine is ho,t shout your ENGINE OFF you guys! just washing my hands here, thanks man I ordered the fun clutch and water pump it seems the bearing in my water pump it's in his way out
What in the hootenanny Florida ratchet-strap concoction you got goin' on there? :-)
It works... I've bought several tools for the fan clutch. None of them fit. I don't mean they fit poorly... I mean the buggers won't go in or they go but don't hols squat.
@@FloridaVanMan - about to pull my fan off to change/repair the front main seal, vacuum pump, and HPFP this weekend. It'll be an early fail if that fan doesn't come off easily. I'm keeping some ratchet straps handy!
Do I hammer the clutch out the fan?
Never mind I just saw your other video. Thanks!!
Is the fan faulty if it stays on too long? Or is it a faulty temp sensor?
Clutch fan sensor is built in, but how do you know it is staying on too long? It will stay on until it cools sufficiently.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks for the info. After flushing the coolant system I went for a test drive and the temp gauge was unstable and the fan stayed on when the gauge went back to normal operating temp. Maybe airlock? Faulty temp sensor? Viscous fan clutch? Faulty thermostat?
@@rwp9835 I'm not clear what you mean "stayed on". The belt-fan on the front of the engine will spin with the engine. I don't know a clear indication of when it is on/off. The electric fan in front of the intercooler is a different story.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks for responding mate. My first time to learn about these mechanical issues and your YT channel is the best. Turns out I had an airlock in the coolant system which meant the coolant temp sensor gave off incorrect readings which in turn kept the clutch fan running. Appreciate your help.
@@rwp9835 If everything is working fine now, that's great. But the clutch fan does not have any communication with the rest of the van. The clutch fan (aka: Viscous-fan) is controlled only by its own internal temperature. This guy breaks it down better than I ever could: czcams.com/video/UwM4OqsLek4/video.html
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You’ll have an easier time if you just remove the shroud 🤷🏼♀️
The shroud won't fit between the fan and the radiator, so we'd need to disconnect the radiator, tip it out & loose a gallon of antifreeze, or remove the fan first.
no.. undo the shroud clips, then move the shroud towards the engine (don't try to haul it out )...then get your allen wrench in front of the shroud. (between the shroud and the rear of the rad) e@@FloridaVanMan
I don't see the link for stubby in the description. Mind sharing the link to buy one. Thanks
It is on the second row of our links page: floridavanman.com/links/