Budget Cable Railing Materials
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- čas přidán 23. 10. 2019
- In this video I am demoing/reviewing some cable railing fittings that were sent to me from Muzata Cable Railing. You can skip to 4:00 in the video for installation. I asked if they could provide a discount code for my viewers who might be interested in their products, and I have it below.
Discount code ($5 off orders over $100 valid only at Muzata site):
YTBER-JOSH
Lag Screw (L &R):
muzatarailing.com/products/ck...
Cable Cutters and Crimper: www.muzatarailing.com/product...
Cables:
www.muzatarailing.com/collect... - Jak na to + styl
Thankyou for editing, sometimes it’s painful watching people struggle
I do my best Chevy! Thanks for the kind words :)
You answered every question I thought of about cable railing. I was looking for exactly this hardware - clean looks, installs inside rail instead of outside, and not too expensive.
I haven't seen any other videos that did a climbing test. Thanks for the great video!
Chris, glad it was helpful! I tried to be thorough, appreciate you taking the time to comment!
Thank you feeling much better about this product now. Installing this week!
No problem Matt! Thanks for watching!
GREAT video! I just found your channel today and your videos are very informative! Thanks for taking the time to share these budget friendly tips!
Alison, thank you so much! Glad they are helpful and thank you for taking the time to say so :)
Items were exactly what I purchased and video was perfectly suited for my project - THANKS!
John Mortenson, very glad to hear that! Thanks for taking the time to say so :)
@@PottersWork
Honestly you have to be careful with these sort of workarounds.
The crimping of the sleeve is meant to be done between cables. Not a cable by itself.
Even when you did your demo with the wire clippers to crimp the sleeve, you did it horizontally instead of vertically.
Careful with all of this ... if the wires need to hold over time, it may not be a good idea to use the hardware you recommended.
Watch this if you would like to know how to swage properly or “crimp” as you call it.
czcams.com/video/dlECTP3Qr0Q/video.html
Best wishes from Singapore
Thank you!!!! Because of your video, my deck looks awesome!
Sue, glad to hear that! Thank you!
Nice experiment. Thanks for giving us this comparison.
No problem, thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for making this video! Awesome job and exactly what I needed.
No problem! Thanks for watching :)
Excellent info. Appreciate the climb test.
Thanks Papa_Fish!
Very informative. I have the exact items and your video answered all my questions. Melbourne Australia.
Ramos Furtado, awesome! Glad to hear that it was helpful! Hope your install goes smoothly.
Cant wait to try this product, pricing is right and really like the clean lines, thanks for a thorough video!
S Gammon, no problem! Glad the video was helpful!
@@PottersWork thanks for the demo.
1. A proper swage or “crimp” as you call it will lock the threads of the cable between each other. It then will support 90% of the cable specified weight.
This method is using the hollow cavity section of the screw to squeeze hold of the cable. This is totally different and relies on the strength of the hollow tube and how well it was swaged. Coupled with rust, I would think that the holding power will be compromised over time.
3. I saw when you used your wire cutters swage the
Thanks for your review
EXCELLENT! Best video on the cable system I've seem and I've look at over 20 videos on youtube!
I’m glad to hear that! Thanks for watching too!
Loved the stress test
Very scientific right? Lol. Probably better ways to do it, but that was the easiest
Great job, very helpful. Thanks from Australia 🇦🇺
Thank you! And hello back from Kansas ;)
Very helpful. Looking to do my railing too. Thanks...
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment Patrick!
Really helpful video!! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Mark!
Thanks, very helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
I did this for 150 ft railing. Bought the crimp for 40 on amazon and works fine. They also sell for stairs that can go different angles. If you are doing in summer, don’t make it too tight, it will become shorter and put too much tension on post
Glad to hear it worked out for you! 150’ is a pretty good stretch as well!
What crimper brand?
This is his first time and goodonya for getting it done. Keep in mind that we're rigging railings. Think rigging a boat.
"From far it doesn't look terrible". We'd need to have a pretty large deck to get far enough away for that
to not look "terrible". It would help if we first started out thinking we could afford to do the cable railing correctly.
All the components needed to finish it as it looks on the WEB pages is a good place to start.
Galvanized wire isn't close to making that list. Neither are bolt cutters whose purpose is conveniently defined in their name.
That's why they aren't called bold "swagers" or bolt "crimpers". Stainless Steel is the best choice for stuff having
to hold up 24/7 outdoors. It is steel that stains less than other steel. It can rust depending on circumstances.
Crimp, turn 90degress, crimp, turn 90, repeat as needed. Crimping again 90 degrees to your first might smooth
metal that may have pinched out of the die on the first pass.
Stainless Steel Ferrels that fit in the post give it a finished look.
Use of turn buckles means we can lag all the way in to hide threads on that end then cut enough slack to be able
to terminate the other end. That slack would be removed with the turnbuckle.
Heck, all this is online. Do it that way and only compromise after posting on a place like this or calling the vendor
asking what they'd do on your budget.
By-the-way, I'd tune the strings up to Ukulele tuning and let the kids do something creative with your deck.
If you have a couple sections tune one to GCEA for Soprano and Tenor
and dGBE for Bass. I can hear the kids now yelling, "comeon we're going to play Potters porch."
Excellent video
Thank you!
I bought these products from steel dn mate, and I just complete the project, saving money and clean look. Amazing!
Awesome, glad to hear they worked well for you! They are pretty nice!
I love the tutorial, thank you. I’m really liking how you connected the 2x4 to the posts. It looks seamless! How did you do that? Our deck needs a big makeover, this railing and the posts. Yours look really well done. Thanks!
Hello Sparkle Fire! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! I used pocket hole joinery to connect the railing like that. It’s very simple if you purchase a pocket hole jig. I have used a Kreg pocket hole jig for about 10 years and have been very happy with it. I currently use the Kreg K4, but started off with the R3 for my 1st jig. Both would work for this railing, but the K4 is faster for more holes. Hope that helps!
Josh
Thanks for the demo! Excited to try these fittings out. Any idea what standard die size the 1/8 die corresponds to? I have a crimper with 14, 10, 12, 8, 7 AWG, etc sizes, so just curious if you know.
I don't have an answer for you, but in searching for a hydraulic swaging tool, I see that most with AWG size dies are not rated for steel. I'd recommend double checking yours before using it on steel....just food for thought, I am a far cry from a CZcams know it all, just what I've read recently.
This is a great video. I was getting pricing of $135 per foot for cable railing! Although Muzata is sold out of the lag bolts Amazon has them in stock. Another CZcams win.
Awesome, that’s great to hear you were able to find some Nick!
My wife and I did a deck workover this summer and installed the muzata railing system in a 600 sq ft deck. We picked the flat black finish on the cable and hardware. We are very happy with it.
This is a good DIY project and all the more so because I could not get a contractor to do the job. All are too busy here in Colorado.
I didn’t know they had black hardware now. I’m going to have to take another look. Thanks for the comment!
Would be nice if they made a simple slip cover so that you could place two on the wire then crimp and slip over the exposed threads 👍🏼
I agree, that would be a good idea
I have used this same cable system inside and outside of my house. The trick is to cut the wire at the right length to have most of the threads inside the wood. They rarely loosen, but when they have it is simple to tighten them. Fortunately for me, when I bought my materials, they had a different hydraulic crimper. It was much faster to use.
Pat, that's great advice, thanks for adding this info to the comments section!
what are you cutting cable with
so it dont fray on the ends
Your video was great. Their recommendations for the amount to cut off the overall make you see threads like you showed. To not see threads cut 1 1/8" off square runs, 1 5/8" off of stairs, 1 5/16" off square to rake. Buy extra so you can figure it out too.
I didn’t know those measurements, so thanks for sharing! They didn’t give me that info when they sent me the stuff to demo.
I just did this on 4x4 posts and they bowed like crazy after a day. Following the instructions, I left an inch of thread and it was way too tight. Luckily I was able to straighten the posts and re-do them. Be careful not to put them too tight
THANK YOU!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching! Hope it was helpful!
id leave a little threading exposed so you can tighten them up as they stretch out from people putting weight on them. Great tutorial. i am installing a very similar system on my deck. thank you
Not a bad idea for sure. Hope it was helpful and thanks for watching!
I am at the point of cutting the cables. If I cut the cables so they deadhead inside the lags how many turns does it take to tighten the cable. I do not want 1/2" of threads showing but do want some threads for future tightening if they relax over time.
@@go4itpc, that would depend on how much slack you have in the cable. I pulled out as much slack as I could and it only took a couple of turns to tighten them up.
Just checked their website and seems they are "Sold Out" of about everything I needed!
Bob, I think Covid has them backlogged...hopefully they can get caught back up
Amazon sells the lags
Thanks, I found them on Amazon
good video thanks for the ideas. what about just using the long shank eye bolt and tightening from the back without the turnbuckle.
Derekbitt1, that definitely would work as well! Would be much cleaner too. And thank you!
You did well I learned a lot from your installation and honest feedback on the Missouri product I was wondering if you had any follow up I had another question if the cable does give and sags do you have to replace it completely because there’s no way to tighten it all that you do still have that half inch on the other end for tension down the road? Thanks again it was a huge help
Muzzata?sp
@@ameyc2, thank you for watching! I still had lots of threads left to tension it up more...you can see in the video that I had a pretty good sag before I tightened it up and still had quite a bit of threads showing. If it gets a little loose, just tighten each end a turn or so and that should do it. I hope that helps!
Here's a tip if you have a big shop vice you can make your own dyes by slotting 3/4 carriage bolt nuts with a grinder or file and then put the cable lags between and tighten. And use magnets if ya want to hold them in the vice
That’s a great idea! Thanks for sharing that with us man!
Awesome video! I don’t like the threads showing as well. Curious, could you screw them in showing 1/4 and tighten to flush? Thx.
Salvatore, I think you could do that for sure to keep the threads hidden!
Good product, but my qustion with cable railing is what about maximum recommended span of the cable between post? I have a large deck that was added to over time so, some of the spans are about 72 or inches or more.
That is not much more than the spans I have on my porch Donald. I think a lot of local codes will tell you that as long as you can’t fit a 4 inch sphere between them, they will meet code. So you may just have to have them a little closer together for a longer span… I would always counsel someone to go ahead and ask their local building official just to be safe.
Thanks @@PottersWork
Just done a deck railing with them if you measure it out it works awesome with no threads showing
Josh, good to hear they worked well for you! They really are pretty nice
My job is still waiting on the front veranda but I reckon I'm up to speed on a few things. I was told that using bolt cutters is NOT at all suitable. That is because a proper swage tool actually bonds the cable to the swage. Also one compression is easily enough as this is not a load bearing cable. I used a hammer and cold chisel to compress all my copper shade sail swages but after being told how to do it the right way, I bought a hand swage tool and went over every swage so now I know a big wind will not blow my expensive sails away! As for my railing, I bought the left/right lag screws as they do look neat as a pin on the CZcams vids I've seen and easy peasy to install. My job is over 20 metres x 5 rows of cable so this is the cheapest way of getting stainless steel balustrade. Turnbuckles and all those other fancy fittings would up the cost significantly and would just makes the finished job more clunky imo. Thanks for the video Josh; you reinforced my thoughts that I bought the right hardware.
Jed, do you happen to have a link to a video or some pics of your project? It sounds awesome! Would love to see it. And thanks for watching and for your knowledge addition to the comment section!
I would say the biggest question is this
Are the people who are watching this professionals or DYIrs.
OR.. a tradesman that requires a long lasting tool. A decision we all make
Great video. The crimper is a problem for me. It looks like a lot of work. Needs to be redesigned.
Michael, I 100% agree with you…it could be way more user friendly and more efficient for sure
I just wired mine up. System works great, but if your 4x4's are weak, these will split the wood in half. In order to avoid this don't over tighten and add a bottom plate
Lgeezy, glad to hear they worked out for you! Good advice as well
I like this system, but instead of lag ends I would prefer a machine screw end so you could thru drill the post and adjust tension that way. A lag screw seems like it could loosen as wood ages and dries out.
I would have to agree with you on this, I haven’t seen if they’ve added a newer product since my video that does this, but might be worth checking out.
Do you know if you can run these cables on a diagonal with the lag screw cable connectors and just drill the holes at an angle? This is specific for a handrail on a stairs that are diagonal. Thanks.
Jonathan, I don't see why you couldn't do that, as long as the holes are drilled at an angle. Might want to check with your local building official just to be safe though.
you could also measure and crimp both ends first.
Love all the videos. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the helpful information. Do you think this would work for long runs? My deck is quite large. I have a 31' run and and a 27' run. I would not want to use these for each section as the cost would skyrocket.
Rob Bosch, thank you so much! Do your long runs have posts every so often? I would hesitate to use something like this on a super long run. I would probably want a bolt with a nut and washer so you could really put some tension on it over a long run. Otherwise I worry it might sag a bit. I would say these would be fine for spans 8’ and under between posts in my opinion
@@PottersWork Thanks so much for the quick response. There will be a post every six feet. If I had to use these between every 6 foot section it would obviously cost a lot more money. I really like the look of these fittings compared to the double hook, but like you I worry that they won't hold up for long runs.
Rob, I think if you can just drill a pass through hole in each post you might be ok...since the 6 feet spans would help with the sag. However, you might reference this video of some guys using different Muzata fittings on some longer spans. I haven’t watched this whole video yet, but I have been meaning to
czcams.com/video/-PzMYtGsqSY/video.html
@@PottersWork I will check that video out shortly. Again, thanks so much for the great videos and quick responses. Have a great rest of your week :)
Yes, these work fine on long runs. Did a deck for a customer that had two runs of 30' and they tightened up fine. Follow instructions. It says to measure distance of run (between posts). Subtract 1,1/2" from measurement, then Swage as demonstrated in video. If you measure correctly and subtract 1,1/2" accurately, your cable will be perfectly tight and the threads on the lag stud will be fully embedded into the post. Unlike the video.
What kind of anchors to be used in case... Concrete beams or MS box pipe?
Hello. I’m about to do cable railing on my deck rails and came across your video. Would the lags work if my deck rail was 24ft long and I went ahead drill a whole through the posts in between? Hope that make sense?
Hello Ricardo! Yes that should work just fine as long as your distance between your posts isn’t too long. I actually did the same thing on my deck. I drilled 3/16” holes in the posts between my two outside posts and then ran the cable from one end to the other. You can also buy sleeves made just for this if you’d like a more finished look as well.
yes! this system works for that.
@15:40 that’s why I decided against cable balustrades. My kids would be all over those things and climbing over the railing.
Definitely something to consider Kyle. I’ve had a neighbor kid or two climb mine. My son never did that I know of, but I made it clear he wasn’t supposed to climb them.
I used this kit ! try this trick . Pilot drill like you did then use the lag like a drill bit in the drill to send it in . Works great . I also had a open end crimp tool that way you can set all your lag half way in then crimp all the wire at the same time then tighten. I really like how simple and nice the look . Great video
Josh, sorry I am just seeing this comment! That’s a great idea with the drill, and I need to find myself an open ended crimper for sure!
@@PottersWork I’m happy to share ideas with another craftsman who take pride in their work 👍
@@josho4971, well it’s appreciated! That’s the best part about CZcams comments…learning from all the other workers out there. Sometimes the comments aren’t always nice, but most are lol ;)
Do you recall the make and model of the open ended crimper? That sounds like a huge time savings.
@@davidnorwood8109 if you are in a jamb and need one asap harbor freight has one for automotive that works ok . If you have time I bought a nicer one on Amazon, it’s in my work truck I’ll look at the brand today and try and get back to you .
Aluminum turnbuckles are only for displays at wax museums and Halloween haunted houses. LOL...
Not really, but seriously, I wish I would have caught you saying these were aluminum when you first started working with it so I could have laughed all the way through it waiting for you to put pressure on the aluminum. I like the plain one. That's what I'm going to do. Thanks for the vid
The new crimper seems more user friendly. No need to remove the post and remove the top die.
Ken Shepherd, I haven’t seen the new one, but that sounds much better. This one still works well for me and I’ve used it on some other things too. Actually comes in handy for more things than I thought.
Thanks!
Jim, thank you for the super thanks! You are the 1st one I’ve ever had, you just made my day! Hope the video was helpful and have a great day :)
Can you crimp the cable ferrule used on the turn buckle with that style hydraulic tool ?
Wade, honestly I think it would work just fine for those as well. I just used bolt cutters since I didn’t have a swaging tool. I think the hydraulic crimpers would work just as well though now that you’ve mentioned it. Couldn’t say 100% sure without trying it though.
@@PottersWork Thanks.....you made me spend $120, ordered this morning :-)
I bought these after watching your great video but every time I turn them to tighten the cable pulls out! Maybe my hydraulic crimper is weak? I bought it new with the kit. Any thoughts?
Rick, I haven’t had that happen before…have you tried using a smaller swage die in the crimper? That would be my first guess to fix it.
With this exact setup, can you make a 90 degree turn in a post and carry with the same cable? Instead of having to drill and use another set of the L&R's in the same post just on the other side.
Maybe it's different in the US but in the UK thats a £200 tool and those screw in fitting s are £37 each so £74 plus the cost of the cable which is the cheapest part. This is way more expensive than even glass. I priced this for a client and it worked out for a 4 foot section, they wanted vertical wires. It worked out around £800 for a 4 foot section. Obviously they never went with it and managed to get toughened glass panels for £75 per section.
Wow, I wonder why it's so much more expensive than it is here in the US...that's a big difference
Great video! Where can I buy these neat cable railing terminals?
James, I put a link in the description. I haven’t personally bought from them since they sent me the samples free but plan to purchase some hardware in the future. I would be curious to see how quick their turn around is on an order.
@@PottersWork thanks
James L, no problem!
Thank you so much for your video...what site or were can we buy the hardware???
For you diy crimper, drill a hole in the lock cutters.
That's a great idea, I have an old pair that would work great for this in the future. The hydraulic crimpers work great, just not easy to carry around.
Used to use that cable cutter in my slickline days.
Cheryl, were you working mines when you were slicklining?
Nah... no explosives, no perforating just O&G. Definitely going to use this set up for my garden house.
Hi there, does one have to use the left and right lags at every section? Or can one drill holes through several sections and use the lashes at the first and last sections?
You can drill holes and string the cable through for sure. I have another video I did that in, but I used turnbuckles…that was before Muzata sent me the lags to try. I still kind of prefer a turnbuckle on one end for ease of adjusting cable tension.
does look like a DIY job
It is a low budget alternative, the company does make some nicer fittings as well for a higher cost.
The big question from a pro builder is this. With multiple post. Ie>4×4s. The lines of the cable system may be interrupted from one side to the next. Hence the length of the threads. Wouldn't one "panel" interfere with other?
A long run of 20 feet. >five post< the cables should line up all across the separate sections. Therefore i see a conflict of the fasteners colliding within the post? Isn't this an issue? Especially when we as installers want, or should want a clean appearance. No threads showing?
Is there a longevity issue with the overall depth of the threads and how far is the penetration?
Before they collide?
RM, when I did mine, on my long runs I just drilled through the post and ran my cable straight through. I would only use these where my cable terminates at each end. I helped a friend do his this way too and it worked great. We used these sleeves for all the posts between for a clean look.
Muzata 50Pack T316 Stainless Steel Protector Sleeves Protective Cable Railing Kit Hardware Grommet for 1/8" Wire Rope Wood Posts Deck Stair Railing CR13,CP1 www.amazon.com/dp/B07174JGTR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YSWDFWRBAAMFPKZMBBN5
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to start. What length would you stretch between posts? I will need to install add posts. What size post would you recommend? Thanks for any advice.
@@victorhallman3363, your distance between posts will depend on what size beams and joists you are going with. Usually you can find some good charts on google for deck building. Most likely you will want to use 4x4 posts unless you are going to be doing longer spans with larger beams that would require a 6x6 post. I’ll post a website that has some good info below. And I also like to encourage talking to your local building official, he/she will probably be able to give you some great info too.
www.decksdirect.com/how-to-frame-a-deck
One hard ware site said that on a corner you can offset so that they pass each other or use partial depth fittings. Oa a corner the offset picture looked fine.
Why is it that Muzata does not list: Recommended distance between two anchors AND recommended distance between mid-support post. They have lots of product but you need to request this info. from tech support, I could not find on web site
Hello this is Sandra!Thank you, thank you.That is exactly what I need, can someone please tells me where can I buy it?
Sandra, I have links in the video description to buy them. Hope that helps!
Do one complete side and you shouldn't have to disassemble tool each time I would think ,I am getting ready to do one I will try it .
Let me know how it works out Allen
I wonder if you could chuck that into ur drill to install those bolts???
Honestly, you probably could...just would want to be sure not to spin it in the chuck so you didn’t scratch it up.
Exactly. 1st thing I thought of. Why work harder than you have to.
Buy a couple extra I use the as pre drill for threading works a treat
Hey Potter, wanna try our latest cable railing products? Please let me know how to reach you
Would this railing design meet code? I would guess the inspector would want to see the cable installed through the post
Matt Magee, definitely check with your local building official. It seems to vary quite a bit from place to place
For guard railing a 4 inch sphere may not pass through any opening.
I done my railing this year and turned out very well. I used turn buckles with my cables.
lewisdean22, did you use this style hardware? I am partial to turnbuckles as well, I kind of like the industrial look it gives.
@@PottersWork your spot on the look from the hardware gives this a good look, maybe not for everyone who may want a more streamlined approach. But the industrial look does it for me. Love from Scotland 🏴
@@lewisdean22, what can I say, you and I have good taste ;) lol
Nice vid. Perhaps someone should invent a turnbuckle with lag screw on end, and crimpable sheath other end... jussayin...
That would honestly be awesome DubD. Would help in some other applications as well.
Can you crimp them round instead of hexagon?
Probably with the right insert for the crimpers or a set of crimpers that has a smooth round die you could do that for sure.
What about stairs any videos ?
Julie, I don't personally have any stair videos on my channel...I imagine you could still use this hardware if you just drill your holes at the angle of your railing.
It says to measure between each post and cut wire 1 1/2 - 2" shorter. I have instructions
Thanks TopDaug, mine didn’t come with instructions, just the hardware. That’s good to know
Great video! But the hydraulic press seemed like a pain. Too many moves to press and then move. There are other presses that are open on one side.
I would have to agree with you Joseph…the press is a little cumbersome for sure.
@@PottersWork thanks again for great video. I have my supplies coming tues 👍👍
@@Joe-eu3th, you bet! Hope it was helpful!
Do the cables get loose as the temperature changes?
Troy, I haven’t noticed it with temp change, but I did notice it as the lumber dried out at the beginning. I think it’s been over a year since the last time I adjusted them. And that was all of about 30 seconds worth of work to just snug them up about 1 turn.
@@PottersWork so as the wood dried, I take it the wires loosened? I guess what I'm getting at is I don't want to run out of adjustment with the lag screws. How much of the threads would you leave visible to ensure I have enough adjustment to tighten the cables back up? I'm using treated 4x4s as posts, that were still fairly wet when I installed them 2 weeks ago.
Troy Dunn, yes as the wood dried out it shrunk slightly. I would say leave at least an inch of threads showing on each side. That gives you a full 2” of adjustment. It really doesn’t take much thread to tighten it up.
@@PottersWork ok, thanks!
@@PottersWork I think your advise is correct. Say you plan on railing being there former to 15 years + you need some treads to tighten
very informative and thanks for the input. Just hope the kids and grandkids do not climb on the cable.
No problem! My kid and the neighbor kids climbed mine a couple times…I have had to tell them the stop a few times lol.
Top one is way cleaner looking but you already know this
I agree…no threads looks WAY better
I'm the same with no threads measure the thread and give your self a little bit more slack in your wire
If you have 1/2 an inch of thread u will need and 1inch of slack I would think
what size cable?
Tonya, I used 1/8” stainless cable in this video.
Looking for a cleaner look thank you for the video
Paul Phillips, you bet! Thanks for watching and commenting! Have a good day!
screw to attachement in further before cutting and crimping so you wont see threads use a dummy one as an example to factor in the rest of the assembly. The turn buckle is ugly
so I don't need a hydraulic crimper? That thing makes the budget double/triple
You don’t “need” it, but it does look a little nicer. You can also buy a Swage tool that would hit somewhere in the middle between using the cable cutters and the hydraulic crimper…that would probably be the best bet honestly. They have some on Amazon for around $35
@@PottersWork Can I just get bolt cutters like you did? Don't care too much about looks, just want to crimp
@@DyLemmaOG make the 2 crimps at 90 degrees from each other if you do.
I prefer the system that goes all the way through the boat and you can put a note on so that it’s not stressing on the fibers of the wood I think this will eventually pull out was a nut the end can’t
alfriedar, 100% agree with a bolt and nut being the strongest way to fasten. This would be a good option where that’s not possible. The company also sells nut/bolt options as well. This is just what they sent me to demo. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment for others to see as well.
IF, the threads of the stud are fully embedded into the post upon tightening (distance between posts less 1,1/2") AND you make a proper swage, these studs are usually rated for 900+ lb's of pull out force in #2 pine. If it's hardwood, I'm sure it's much greater. Keep in mind, that's just with one cable run, you will have 9-10 runs typically with 900+ lbs ea. But yes, thru bolt is best. But these are very adequate. Have used this system for many customers. 1x19 SS cable is a must. Better than 7x7.
Ron, thanks for you knowledge and input! I didn’t know that they had such a strong bite, I learned something today :)
get a single hinge swaging tool so much easier
I agree. Much quicker but you need to spend money on a good swag tool. Cheap ones might not have the crimping power or might not have the tolerances for the size wire used to hold the wire securely.
Where’s the links???
Hello! The links are in the description below the video. Thanks!
I hate the turn buckle idea it's ok but not for me
50# is all that required
The issue with threads showing seems like a measurement issue.
Definitely could be for sure. This was the 1st time I’d used them. I think after a couple it would be easy to get it closer. Only issue is if you’re a little too long, you lose your flat spot for your wrench to tighten them.
Cheaper on Amazon
Nice 👌 but I'm sure it's out of building code because kids can use it as a latter and fall off the other side
That's not how the code works. And it's spelled "ladder".
Why not try cutting it w your cable cutters? And after failing with your home made cutter/ crimper, why not try a large pair of vise grips? Stainless is soft. I'm trying it tomorrow. Think cheap. Use what you got.
Good video but would not use either, neither is appealing to the eye.
Use your drill put it in half way
Not a bad idea!
$119 for the crimper and cutters alone...not really 'BUDGET' pricing!
Jason, that’s kind of why I show the bolt cutters as well. However, even with that cost of the crimpers it’s still substantially cheaper than buying most of the kits out there. The pricing on this cable railing stuff is ridiculous.
I don't want to see threads either
I agree, they don’t quite look as clean that way
Nice video, thanks. Super unappealing system from an installation point of view. Labor-intensive as heck.
That crimping tool is a joke. Spend the money and get one that's speedy
Speedy would be better for sure, but they are pricey. This is a video for people on a budget who will be trading their time for savings.
What’s your hurry
Terrible design for a a crimper - better off to get bolt cutters and notch out the end to make them a crimper.
That’s a good idea Boe
That is actually a great idea. I’m going to do that.