2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Engine Rebuild - Part 20
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- čas přidán 19. 03. 2012
- Continue crankcase assembly: oil/water pump, oil pan, head stud bolts, stator.
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Hey, sometimes manuals call for using a new bolt and then torquing it to spec. The idea is that the bolt is softer than the material that it threads into so it locks into place. If you are doing this with an older bolt it is best to use Loctite. Hope that helps. Loved all of the rebuild videos!! They are super helpful!
I take it you fitted the main water pump outlet after fitting the sump casing. Wouldnt it have been easier to do it before then you can guarantee the pipe has gone into the pump housing correctly with the o-ring seated well?
Cheers
Oil dripping off the bottom of the stator cover may not be from the stator cover. That's a common path for an oil leak to take. Put fluorescent dye in your oil (used for detecting leaks together with a black light), and trace the oil leak back. You may find its coming from the head gasket near the oil port near the cam chain tensioner. The oil can run along the engine case then down off the bottom of the stator cover.
Early R-1,s had leaks on bottom of stator cover because of poor o.e.m. gasket-Woodcraft makes an aluminum-paper sandwich which solves this properly,also they sell a real nice cover with replaceable skid plate
Safe to safe its not the battery. You need to look at the whole charging system (stator, rectify/regulator), and wiring. The factory service manual has a trouble shooting section. Post this on the r1-forum.com, I and others can give more detailed answers there.
My impeller did not spin freely, there was some resistance, and I should have known that something wasn't right. I just found it easier to buy a whole replacement pump... which is what I would recommend you do, keep watching ebay and go to the r1-forum.com to see if anyone has one they can sell you.
would a water pump removal be the same on a 2006 fz1, from what i understand the gen 2 has a r1 motor
I hope you can help me , I have an electrical problem with my yamaha r1 2005, A year ago the battery get damaged, so I had to buy another battery ,( It wasn't the original ) ,when I wanted turn on the bike didn't have enough power to start the first attempt ,and the battery is fully discharged, so I had to remove the ignition ,and wait a few seconds and try again and turn on and the bike
I have one yzf r1 2000 i didnt now the water pump was in there mine is starting to heat a litle bit. Faster than is use to do you think it can be the thermostat
so I thought it was the battery because it wasn't the originally , five months after the battery get damaged again, , as the season was ending and I leave it that way ,now I bought another battery (supposedly better than the original ), and I have the same problem, could you help me please give me some ideas that may be please ,,,,,,,,,,,, thanks
I did the oil pump chain, and noticed a little slack in it. It's the 3rd one I was able to push on and all are a bit loose.. Is that normal?
hi, i hope u can help me. i have a 2000 yamaha r1. i saw a leak by the stator cover and changed the gasket. the leak is still there by the screw that goes in at the bottom and i can also see some oil coming out right by the small chain sprocket but its not from the sprocket. the gasket around the sprocket looks good. what do u think could be the reason.
John, great video! I have a question for you. The lower radiator pipe that goes to the water pump/oil pump. I have a 2003 R1, and i broke the drain bolt off of the pipe. So I removed the radiator fluid and took out that pipe. Oil came out from where that pipe was. Now I have a new pipe and new orings, when I reinstall the pipe, what keeps the coolant and oil from mixing? I dont' understand how it works. Thanks in advance!
Right, that's normal that oil will come out when you pull that pipe from the engine. What keeps the oil and water separate is the o-ring you slip on the end of that pipe. When you install that pipe into the engine case, the end of the pipe inserts directly into the water pump. The o-ring on the end of the pipe seals the water pump so no water going through the pipe can escape into the engine compartment. Also, there is an o-ring that seals against the outside of the engine block, which prevents oil from leaking out and onto the floor. The pipe is fairly long since the water pump is right in the middle of the engine assembly, oil flows around the outside of the water pipe once its inserted, but the oil and water are kept separate. Look at some of the parts diagrams and it might help visualize it.
SupermotoJohn Cool! Thanks for the description. I have looked at diagrams and pictures, but I wasn't quite getting it until you described. When I broke the drain bolt off my confidence kind of ran out, so I was wondering what all was going to come along with putting back in the pipe. It makes sense now, i'll hope for no leakage after it goes back in. Thanks a ton!
MrMarquis1981 SupermotoJohn One more question. When I took out the radiator pipe, i hadn't drained the oil yet. I didn't really know that I needed to. Now I am wondering if oil could have gotten into the water pump when the oil drained and pipe was removed with oil in there. What are the chances? I am wondering if I need to take the oil pan off and check and possibly clean?
MrMarquis1981 no need to worry about oil getting in the water pump, when you pulled the radiator pipe, any oil would have come out of the engine case if the oil level was high enough.
Hi John, did you prime the oil pump? Or just relied on using assembly lube, and filling oil where service manual mentions to fill oil? Did you monitor oil pressure with a gauge at all when you first started the engine?
I'm about ready to fire up, but am concerned about running dry, or not having oil pressure.
Your videos are the best,
thanks-
Flylikechris I don't think I primed the oil pump, with everything coating in assembly lube you are good to go for initial start. I did not monitor oil pressure, I figured with the crankcase full of oil, there would have to be some sort of catastrophic issue not to have pressure, like a major leak. FIRE THAT BIKE UP AND STOP WORRYING! ;-)
John Falkenthal Fired the bike up today and she ran great. I can't say thanks enough!! You're videos gave me the confidence and useful tips to help tackle the project.
Oh, and no problems with oil pressure haha
Flylikechris Right on Brother! Congratulations!
Wich loctite did you use for the engine internals? thanks
If I remember correctly, the factory service manual did not specify which loctite to use, but I think everyone always uses the "blue" type for engine applications where you are likely to remove those bolts at some point in the future. if you use the red stuff, you have to heat it up to loosen the bolts down the road.
@@jf5543 thanks a lot!!