2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Engine Rebuild - Part 24

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  • čas přidán 24. 03. 2012
  • ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    But not without issues... as expected, a few coolant leaks, some strange noises, but the beast is running
    Previous Video: • 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Eng...
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Komentáře • 42

  • @tomasss64
    @tomasss64 Před rokem +1

    Hello
    With your videos, I was able to rebuild the engine of my Yamaha r1 de2000.
    She had split cylinders. We don't speak the same language, but the pictures are enough.
    I am really happy to have been able to carry out this work in my garage, thanks to your videos. The bike has traveled 7000 km with new cylinders without problems.
    Thanks a lot .
    Thomas.

  • @rowdyrider7754
    @rowdyrider7754 Před 8 lety +14

    I've been repairing motorcycles since 1959, and this is without a doubt one of the best "How to " presentations I have seen in a long time. Excellent instructions easily understood terminology and great video presentation. Many R1 owners should thank you. Well done.

    • @repomannv
      @repomannv  Před 8 lety

      +Rowdy Rider Thx Rowdy, very nice of you to say that. Bike is still running tip-top!!

  • @RobertoSciffo
    @RobertoSciffo Před rokem +1

    Hey John, excellent video series.. I recently purchased a 2000 R1 and I had to rebuild much of it so I am really happy to have had this video series to guide me. I do believe I know what the sound is coming from the oil/water pump. I rebuilt mine and there is a washer on the oil side next to the bearing that, if not installed, has the metal impeller on the water side scratching the inner side of the outer casing. With this simple washer, it pulls in the shaft just enough so that the impeller does not touch the other casing/housing.

  • @ericstyer2890
    @ericstyer2890 Před 4 lety

    Thanks for bringing us along for all the aggravations and small victories nobody considers when they see a running older bike. I do hope #1 intake valve doesn’t make a surprise appearance down the road.

  • @bulgogi19
    @bulgogi19 Před 12 lety

    I recently purchased a 1999 R1 as a project bike and just started tearing into, and let me say that your videos have been nothing short of inspiring!!! I have oil blowing out of the exhaust though and i'm not sure what it could be, the bike only has 30k miles on it, but I imagine they were hard miles run by an inexperienced rider and maybe the rings are toast or the head gasket is blown. You may have inspired me to start my own video series for the '99, at any rate thank you for the videos!

  • @Combine1777
    @Combine1777 Před 12 lety +1

    been watching since the beginning! great job very detailed
    thanks!!

  • @davidmarumaru2090
    @davidmarumaru2090 Před 4 lety

    I had the same year r1. Ran awesome , nice job

  • @flibbertigibbet6200
    @flibbertigibbet6200 Před 8 lety

    Just watched all of these rebuild videos. Great job mate and fantastic guide. Was really routing for you at the end lol

  • @gustavlarsen4225
    @gustavlarsen4225 Před 8 lety

    awesome,watch them,and great help even tho i have a R6 2001,and videos are hard to find,thank you again,enjoy...

  • @bubster1981
    @bubster1981 Před 12 lety

    true, a simple method i use to eliminate any trans noise is to simply place the trans in gear while runing, this of corse stops all shaft and any trans gear roatation...a good way to take away possibilities there...if thats suspected

  • @simonemontelaghi362
    @simonemontelaghi362 Před 4 lety

    in my 2003 r1 there is a spacer/ metal ring before the sproket that drive the oil/water pump . that squeeky noise can be that. I notice in a previous video and also is different model but they are similar

  • @repomannv
    @repomannv  Před 10 lety

    Sorry for replying late on this... The pipe on the left side of the carburetor assembly you leave alone, don't connect it to anything... The pipe in the middle rear of the assembly is the fuel inlet, so attach the fuel line coming out of the fuel pump to this, the length of that fuel line should fit perfectly to this inlet pipe.

  • @maxkosma5738
    @maxkosma5738 Před 10 lety +1

    Well done, i have my own bike work shop here australia, done plenty of rebuilds on all sorts of bikes and i have to say i enjoyed wathcin the vids. Good job. That screech does sound like the pump is rubbing. Now the bike is good for another 90k.
    Max

    • @metalmaster76
      @metalmaster76 Před 8 lety

      +max kosma what's the shop name?
      reckon you guys could fix the 2nd gear issue on my r1?

    • @maxkosma5738
      @maxkosma5738 Před 8 lety

      probikes motorcycles

  • @stephenmacdonald912
    @stephenmacdonald912 Před 2 lety

    I took one apart to fix second gear slip. Got it together started it and when u leaned it on the kick stand it started knocking hard. Had to tear it all apart again that was sad.

  • @powerofone1645
    @powerofone1645 Před 11 lety

    What is involved with "breaking the motor in". Do you ride it for x amount of klms then change the oil to synthetic?

  • @devone744
    @devone744 Před 5 lety

    Where does the timeing case cover cord go??

  • @repomannv
    @repomannv  Před 12 lety

    Foir those of us who only read/speak English, I ran this through google translate... z says just ride the thing, the sound will likely go away after 500-600 kilometers. I'm confirmed the screech is coming from the oil/water pump. I'm going to pickup a new one and if it doesn't go away, swap in the replacement.

  • @spencerburrows3525
    @spencerburrows3525 Před 11 lety

    Hi, the two pipes on the outside of the carburettors are for what and what attaches to each one? Yep i put another engine in and forgot. HELP!!

  • @losteroni
    @losteroni Před 3 lety

    This was a long time ago , did you ever find out what the sound was ? It sounds like maybe the oil/water pump drive chain may be outside one of the guides .

    • @repomannv
      @repomannv  Před 3 lety +1

      When I dropped the oil pan I didn’t see anything obvious but like you say it was a long time ago, I ended up just replacing the whole pump and that solved it.

  • @repomannv
    @repomannv  Před 11 lety

    Yep! Rode it hard at Willow Springs in November, and I'll be riding it at Laguna Seca in March... haven't done much riding around San Diego County lately because its been too damn cold ;-) Are you on the r1-forum? I'm "repoman" over there.

  • @repomannv
    @repomannv  Před 12 lety

    yeah, it could be from the blades, or either of the two bearings in the pump, anytime I hear a high pitched whining sound, I suspect a worn or damaged ball-bearing somewhere... I may test this theory by purchasing a good used pump off ebay and then replacing the whole unit. That wouldn't be too much work at all.

  • @repomannv
    @repomannv  Před 11 lety

    Sorry, was offline for a couple weeks, my recollection is that one of them is not used, and the other is a overflow drain, so just a tube to the bottom of your bike. if you are still unsure, hit me up with an email.

  • @chavismoses7725
    @chavismoses7725 Před 7 lety

    need help my 01 r1 starts up but bogs down and cuts off will run for a short while and stall out I'm having fuel problems tried to clean the carbs still no luck please help

  • @DavidSilva-dj1lx
    @DavidSilva-dj1lx Před 11 lety

    do you still have your bike? im in chula vista. lets meet up.

  • @bubster1981
    @bubster1981 Před 12 lety +1

    high pitched, it almost sounds like a impeller interference...u would deff get that high pitch frm the blades

  • @moulaemou8132
    @moulaemou8132 Před 7 lety

    im working on a similar project with an 01, and have completely finished except for one thing---i have no idea where on the carbs (throttle body) the hoses from the charcoal canister are suppose to go...I'm hoping you may be able to help me>>??

    • @repomannv
      @repomannv  Před 7 lety

      Moulae Mou remove and throw away the charcoal canister. route all drain tubes down along the rear shock and just let them drain to the ground.

  • @zeljkomirilovac
    @zeljkomirilovac Před 12 lety

    sve si uradio profesionalno ne slusaj ove glupake sto te savetuju kreni sa voznjom svi zvukovi iz agregata ce nestati posle 500 - 600 kilometara ja sam imao iste zvukove posle remonta moje yamahe r1 2000 i sada motor radi kao sat i ide 300 kmh jos jednom bravo pozdrav od zeljka iz srbije

  • @prudyboiiz1234567
    @prudyboiiz1234567 Před 9 lety

    i know u posted this video awhile ago. I just brought a 99 r1 while I was over seas. Im trying to do everything myself l but ran into a problem im trying to take off my carbs but you didn't show that part.

    • @repomannv
      @repomannv  Před 9 lety

      Chicolian MacMillian I'm willing to help, if you can explain the problem... basic procedure is to remove the tank, airbox, then loosen the hose clamps under the carbs - all four of them, which are hard to reach unless you have a long handled allen head wrench, then you just rotate the carbs off all together, with the boots loose, they come off and go on pretty easy.

  • @kevinjex8316
    @kevinjex8316 Před 2 lety

    Your cylinder one is to the right side of bike

  • @jasonbortswick6531
    @jasonbortswick6531 Před 9 měsíci

    Hey John I just finished with the rebuild on my 00 r1 I bought the bike and it had a knock in cylinder one fast forward I since.hooked everything up but I just want to crank and a couple pops can't get it to start any suggestions

    • @repomannv
      @repomannv  Před 9 měsíci

      First guess would be timing, check cam chains and cam markers, it’s very easy to be one tooth off; also make sure you’re getting good fuel flow ( ie fuel pump is coming on etc)

    • @jasonbortswick6531
      @jasonbortswick6531 Před 9 měsíci

      @@repomannv would it be something easy to do with motor in the frame

    • @jasonbortswick6531
      @jasonbortswick6531 Před 9 měsíci

      @@repomannv I also watched your catalog on your r1 rebuild

  • @repomannv
    @repomannv  Před 11 lety

    Breaking in a motor is more religion than science, and people argue about this all the time. IMHO, you should always begin with petroleum based oil (not synthentic), you should not be afraid of running the motor hard, just not for a prolonged amount of time, let it heat/cool in cycles. Switch to fully synthentic after a 500 miles or so. I run with Shell Rotella T fully synthetic.