How to Change Brake Pads | Honda CBF1000 GT
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- After giving my poor brake pads a nice roasting on the track it was really time to change them, or at the least inspect them! So this video goes through how to change out the pads on both front and back calipers of my CBF1000 GT. This model has the 9 piston total setup, or 3 of the same caliper, 2 on the front, 1 on the back.
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Bikes: Honda CBF1000 2011
Honda Super Magna Vf750c 1987
Suzuki GSX-R 750 SRAD 1996
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#Honda #CBF1000 #Howto
Apologies for the garage videos lately, food poisoning has put me down for a week and we've also had an endless amount of rain :'( Normal vids should be back soon(as well as more garage videos)
I was worried at the start the gorilla Biker going to do brakes and not used copper grease then bam big tub all my faith in you was restored 😂 I think you discovered why those were the original rear pads just shows you really need to keep checking all these things once again perfect video 👌👍
Haha I completely forgot to put it in at the start :P Glad I saved it :D Yep, I can definitely see someone realising they've to take the rear wheel off and everything and just saying naaaaaah :D Thanks :)
Another good one. I have always been brake obsessed. I would have bled the system after a pad change, especially if you had suffered fade... Look forward to seeing you struggle with the cables.... Hope feel better soon !
Me too, brake lines, good pads etc etc. I want to upgrade the master cylinder on the gsxr too. I usually would, but the linked brake and ABS system you apparently pretty much need a tool to bleed it correctly as there is so much lines. It's one job I probably wont ever tackle myself. Linked brakes suck for many reasons :D The cables on the gsxr should have been fine :P But of course something went wrong :D I'm getting there, thanks!
Just done my 2010 ABS bike using this method. Worked absolutely fine. Only minor problem was on the first caliper the anti rattle spring fell out and it took a few tries to get it back right. I fitted EBC track day pads, still suitable for road use. HH pads were already over £30 so paid £44 a side for these. The existing pads were nearing their limit and had four separate friction pads on each, whereas the EBCs have two, therefore more friction pad area in comparison. Quick and easy method avoiding any brake bleeding; about 20 minutes a side. Didn't do the back brake at present as it looks a lot better than the others. Very helpful video, cheers :)
Ah yes those track day pads look the job, I have just heard they're sometimes not great from cold and need to be warmed up which is why I stuck with the HH, commuting to work I need them to work from the off, but let me know how they work out as it'd be a great option :) Thanks, glad it was helpful :)
Oh, now you've got me worried. From what I can see, both the HH and the pads I've fitted are fully TUV approved and on testing them out ( gently) they felt fine with a decent initial grab from the off. According to the info on the back of the pack the pads were in, there's others that are not TUV approved and only for track use. I'll update you once I've a few miles on these :)
OWNER CBF1000FA-C 2013 Thoroughly enjoyed your video, totally agree with your comments on rear braking stopping power. My model has 5 pistons, I assume less effective than your 9 (3x2 front +2rear) pistons. I found EBC174 pads had been fitted in the rear, now fitting HH pads in hope of some improvement. 👍
Thanks! Ah they changed the rear on the mark 2? I didn't know that. That'd surely be cost saving rather than just have 3 of the same. Mad.
HH will absolutely help feel at minimum, the bike stops and isn't terrible but I do wish I had a liiiiittle more bite even now, still after my jaunt on the track I'm a lot more comfortable with the stopping power that is there :)
Really enjoyed your video GB 🦍 🏍 Nice idea pushing back the piston with the old brake pads. Outro Crew Rocks ✊🏻
Thanks! Ah it's the laziest way I could think of to do it 😂😂
It's good to see the CBF getting lots of love. I should wear gloves more often. Wow, you heated up those pads pretty good on track day. I don't think I have ever had "Linked" brakes. For the short couple of years I raced street bikes I went through brake pads and brake fluid so much faster then normal. Nice vid, your arm still looks brutal and hope the new peg doesn't break. Later...
Need to do chain and sprockets on her yet :) Yeah I'm really trying to wear them more I used to never ever wear them 😬
Yup. Cooked I say 😂 My advice is never ever get linked brakes....I don't think you'd like them.
Yeah I can imagine! If I was doing that regularly they'd get fairly used up :) Thanks man, haha it's actually pretty good now. I heal pretty quick....it's going to take a few months for the lump to go down I think. Me too bud! 😬
Later alligator?
I've just bought my first Biffer and these vids are a great resource, so thanks. One question - would you not give the pistons a clean before pushing them back into the caliper? I always did this on previous bikes but must admit it simplifies things doing it this way.
Glad you like them! I did clean the pistons, from memory it's in the video in a very short clip. People tend to click away when you show actual cleaning though so I edit it out. Always give them a clean, I also rebuild calipers when they need it. I have videos on that process too, just not for this bike but they're all very similar.
Solid video man. I like the wrenching videos as much as the motovlogs... we all have motovlogs but we don’t all show the wrenching that we do. I have the same brake pads, well, same company on my Dyna and the do a solid job. Are pegs meant to be jumped on by a giant? Outro crew IS legendary.
Danke. Ah glad to hear it, I never know. They're also so much harder to film I find 😂 Yeah EBC makes brakes for literally everything I think!I even have EBC all round on the Magna :)
They bloody well better be. Otherwise don't sell them to me 😂
Everyone who listens to me that long is a legend 😂
Nice job on the brakes mate. 👍
Thanks bud :)
Thanks ❤
More than welcome! :)
Halfords advanced tools? What you make of them? Rear caliper overhaul next please 🙌🙌🙌
Also I don't know my arse from my elbow when it comes to bike mechanics but from what I undersand thread locker and not grease should go on caliper mounting bolts? Could be wrong tho
I like them, been using them years and have had no issues. Bike work in particular is very light anyway so doesn't really stress tools, I've actually done caliper rebuilds front and back on the gsxr rebuild if you haven't seen them? :)
I've never used threadlocker on them, you certainly can but with the heat cycling they often tighten up themselves so I've always used copper grease as it's an "anti-seize".
@@TheGorillaBiker I just got the 150pc set and only been messing around with spark plugs and pad changes, been pretty decent so far to be fair! I'll deffo check out the caliper rebuild. Your hornet spark plug video really helped me.
With the brakes being so important I try and follow the manual/manufacturer recommendations to a t and putting grease on there instead of thread lock seems a bit counter intuitive to me tbh. Grease also changes the torque further risking stripping from what I've heard and read? I'm brand new to this stuff so genuinely asking and trying to figure out the right way. There seems to be a lot of different info regarding this stuff everywhere. I actually prefer the workshop vids to the riding ones! Keep up the great content
Nissin brake pads make breaking pretty smooth. But there is a huge price difference.
Honestly HH EBC brake pads have always been my go to, not much pricier and always make a difference. I think the only way I'd get the brakes on the CBF to "feel" how I like brakes, is to de link them and add braided lines.
@@TheGorillaBiker You can give a shot. There is no such a huge difference between EBC and Nissin in terms of total breaking performance. However Nissin's pads are softer. That is why first biting feels much more better than EBC. You can get same performance with less pressure. I would like to ask something else since you have same bike. My cbf's handlebar vibrates between 60-110 km/h when my hand off. I saw there are many people suffered from same problem. have you got any idea or suggestion?
Love your videos btw. Great explanation ^^
Nice! My only question would be if it would not be a good idea to go ahead and clean the break rotors?
It brakes a lot better now in fairness :) Yeah you absolutely could, I actually did clean up the bits I touched off camera but didn't mention it, good spot!
Great video, but what the hell have you done to your right elbow? Massive bruising!
Thanks! Haha one of my best friends decided he didn't want me on my bicycle anymore, I crashed off it at about 25mph and landed on said elbow.
You need more light good video thank you.
I don't even live in the same country anymore :) I'm a hobbyist also not a professional so I'll likely never invest in proper lights. Glad you liked the video :)
You didn't mention if you fitted the, 'Normal' EBC HH or the higher temperature EPFA, HH EBC's. I have a full set of the EPFA's for Silverstone.
Normal. Seeing as this is 99% my daily road bike I thought it made more sense :)
So when the CBF moves on what will she be replaced with I ask ?. Mmmmm good one : )
Haha that's a long way off yet, so I have no idea :P
Looks like the rears were swapped out in the nick of time :-)
Haha there wasn't much meat left on them for anyone!! :D
Useful video for the front, I'll need to do mine soon...however....I've just done my rear pads (Mk2 CBF) and erm, I didn't need to remove the axle. You sure about that bit? I did undo the end can retainer (because it made access easier obviously) but otherwise it was a doddle. Even for me! (Which is saying something :) )
Yep, the mark 1 is mounted on a loop through the rear axle. The bolts aren't removeable from the side :) Might be somthing they realised was a bit of a shit job and changed it for the mark 2. I wouldn't know without doing the Mark 2. Or I could be wrong. I couldn't see a way to dismount it easily anyway, the most straightforward for me was the axle!
@@TheGorillaBiker Ah.....I did wonder about that bit. Seems like the Mk2 just "fixed" a few of the Mk1 issues. Sounds (and looked) like a pain to do! Still, good job and useful video - thank you! :)
Same as me I never removed axle. Just the pin squeezed the pistons dropped in the new pads and done. I have to do fronts soon so great vid GB thanks.
Whoyou if you managed that you're far more flexible than me! I can see that would be possible :)
@Martin ah no it's not too big a pain, dropping the axle is more a tad annoying than anything major it's still only 10 mins :)
Is there anything that you can do about the rain?
I'd banish it forever during the day if I could..let it rain at night no bother!
@@TheGorillaBiker From your lips to God's ears.
Didn't seem to work sadly 😭
How can you live with titanium coloured pegs? Tut tut.
Pretty easily :)
*Gorilla lies and tears at his hair worrying about the mismatched colours*
@@TheGorillaBiker Bro, I'm sure they look sick.
They do not. But that's ok. Its primary job is to go fast :)
@@TheGorillaBiker Well stop tearing your hair out then. lol
Haha I've none left to tear out anyway 😂
the principles' are their, your missing the science of it all, you don't use copper grease on abs units it has metal in it, use silicone on the pins, use red rubber grease on the pistons, make sure your cleaner is rubber friendly, don't force the pistons in before cleaning them, your forcing crap past the seals. and what in gods name your cleaning inside the piston for i don't know, its the outside that matters, you should also clean the clips and a smear of grease, and if your brake's are still bad try replacing the fluid, i do mine every year, if your pads are cooked then so is your fluid. hope this helps, and look into why you should use Honda air filters, their made from differant papers which breath easier, no that cheap hillflo crap.
I only put the copper grease on the threads of the pin to stop it seizing, if that affects anything there there's an issue with design imo. But fair point, silicone would be better.
I do use red rubber grease on pistons. Not sure why you're aiming the cleaner comment at me, safe to assume I used proper brake cleaner. I did clean the pistons lightly before pushing them in, I wasn't doing a full rebuild.
For dirt, why not clean the inside of them, better than leave a heap of dirt there eh.
Fluid was fine, the issue is just that brake system in general I'm not a huge fan of, it functioned fine.
I've never had an issue with hiflo. I've also never stated I'm a mechanic ever, in fact I generally remind people I'm an idiot :) The purpose of this video was to show people the basic how to get the pads in and out, not an in depth video on everything about brakes.
Non! Sérieux. Ne démontez pas votre étrier de frein pour juste changer les plaquettes!!!! il y a beaucoup plus simple, plus rapide. Et ça ne nécessite pas 20 mn de tuto youtube. La CBF est bien conçu par un constructeur sérieux et de renom.
I mean you watched it. Please share a video on how to do it faster while still checking things and cleaning things, everything I do isn't on the videos 😂😂
Have a wonderful day, and again, please share your better way from renowned manufacturers. Also the service manual is generally what I follow, the one written by the renowned manufacturers.