Thanks for this vid saves me having to mess about taking off the sway bar, ball joint , strut and axle hub and using that cone technique this seems much more straight forward! 😎👍
I've done a few of these over the years, nice and simple. Like the cling film and long nose pliers tip, will be doing that for the forthcoming one on a Freelander. 👍
I just did mine today using this split boot. Worked like a charm and is the way to go if your axel is still good. My shop wanted $700 to replace the whole axel and, after buying a couple of tools I managed to keep the cost well under $80. I cannot stress out enough how important is to preserve the lip of the original boot that goes towards the transmission in place if you’re replacing that one. Cut out the old boot around the edge without removing the original strap. Once the old boot is out, then cut out the old strap away (ask me how I know). That end of the axel is oddly shaped in my car (2007 A4) and you need the original boot’s end because it matches the contour of the part and will give you a nice flat round shape to slide in your new boot into. If you don’t use it, the grease will leak out and water will get inside. .
No, cut the old boot out with the smaller trap still in(leaving it undisturbed)nearest to the transmission side. Cut it nice and clean and don't remove that part. Remove the strap only when you're ready to slip-in the new one over it for a perfect fit, so it won't leak in the future.
Were you replacing the inner or outer CV boot? It sounds like this may be an issue for only some vehicles. I believe most CV axles are round on both the wide mouth of the axle boot and the narrow end around the shaft (regardless of whether it's an inner or outer boot). Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you're saying that on your 2007 A4 your axle is not completely circular and so a universal split boot with a round narrow axle end will not work unless you leave the end lip of your original boot. Is that right?
I'm doing the other one tomorrow as it happens too. Just to add, before I add the grease back in, I'm going to also smear/push in a small amount of ordinary silicone into the glued joint, on the inside, and give it an hour to dry (have a cuppa :) as I found a tiny spot of grease seeped through eventually on a different one I done - centrifugal force is very high - so this should make doubly sure this doesn't happen. It was only a tiny spot which wiped away but just to perfect it, Seán
I was quoted $480 to get mine done,I'll go this way,you sealed the deal with the best video I've seen on this job,made me feel relaxed enough that I can do the job myself.
Just make sure to take your time, no hurry, do the thin part that's going to be under the clamp first like in the video, and work your way along making sure that you glue gets in as far as the last part that's glued. Before you clamp it up just check the inside to make sure it's all sitting ok - the joint should be well able to take the stretching once it's glued for a few minutes. Blow a hair dryer in there if it's a cold day or warm up the boot on the radiator before you start, it helps activate the glue ... All the best! Seán
That one took over an hour overall but videoing it added a good bit of that. I checked it about a month later before NCT(National Car Test) and did notice a tiny spot of grease coming out at the top of one of the joints where I'd missed with the glue but it wiped clean. I washed it with a brush and white spirits, let it dry and squeezed some more glue into the joint. On other ones I've done since I push some Silicone rubber(colour not important as it won't be seen) into the joint on the inside as well and give it an hour to set before I add the CV Grease and that seems to solve this, Seán
I did my outer cv boot and after initial gluing I ran a bead of the rubber cement all along the seam to ensure no future separations along the seam. So far so good. Great video.
On some vehicles pulling the axle shaft is not a simple or easy process. I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 and pulling the axle shaft to replace it with an OEM boot presents new risks that a split boot replacement does not. In my case, the inner CV boot tear was caught before any deterioration of the joint -- pulling the axle may result in a leaky seal on the transmission side. It also requires additional tools like a large socket for the axle nut and a hefty breaker bar. My mechanic with 35 years of experience indicated the inner CV joint can go another 75k miles or longer without making a peep if you replace with a split boot. If you waited too long and you're already getting noise from the axle, then, yes, replace the axle shaft.
I think it was a Sealey brand Duncan if I remember correctly but it was whatever my local MotorFactor had in stock. Just check the 'out-of-date' date as the glue might be gone hard, All the best, Seám
A best a temporary fix , stretch boots have made split boots obsolete. Stretch boots are fitted at DIY level using a cone, but even the pro-level tool is not that expensive.
Hi Michael, it passed the NCT just last week so if there was a problem with it they'd have failed it ... for even a pin-hole. All the best and thanks for askin'! Seán
Hello, I've never had an inner one tear, maybe as they don't get the same movement as the outer one. I see specific inner Boots listed online though - web address at end. I'd imagine you'd know by looking at it if it is suitable. Sorry I couldn't give clearer information, Seán www.amazon.co.uk/STICKY-SPLIT-DRIVESHAFT-GAITER-INNER/dp/B008B5HFHW/ref=asc_df_B008B5HFHW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499298107818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10206693788583478242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007871&hvtargid=pla-1239254603918&psc=1
The 'Split Boot' is specially designed for one-side's edge to sit into place with it's opposite-side's edge and be glued in place - a raised line and a recessed line - so I don't think a standard boot would work. They're very cheap to buy anyway, Seán
I've had a look at what you mean by 'Big Body' and any of the Corolla Big Body CV Joints that are worked on all appear similar to the Universal Split-Boot I used - but you probably have to cut the boot in a different place, or maybe no need to cut at all.
@@joemartinez2425 Hi Joe, Any Motorfactor should have them(or ebay) and the glue usually comes with the kit along with gloves, a blade and both big and small steel bands. The only thing you should need to buy extra is the crimping pliers and I recommend getting a decent one as the cheaper one I got snapped on the second fitting, Seán
This has got to be one of the best videos I have seen on performing this task. The cling film, pliers, broom handle hacks are just genius
I'm blushing ... but thanks very much for the kind comment, Seán
Thanks for this vid saves me having to mess about taking off the sway bar, ball joint , strut and axle hub and using that cone technique this seems much more straight forward! 😎👍
I've done a few of these over the years, nice and simple.
Like the cling film and long nose pliers tip, will be doing that for the forthcoming one on a Freelander. 👍
Thanks, Seán
Gran trabajo!! Gracias.
I just did mine today using this split boot. Worked like a charm and is the way to go if your axel is still good. My shop wanted $700 to replace the whole axel and, after buying a couple of tools I managed to keep the cost well under $80. I cannot stress out enough how important is to preserve the lip of the original boot that goes towards the transmission in place if you’re replacing that one. Cut out the old boot around the edge without removing the original strap. Once the old boot is out, then cut out the old strap away (ask me how I know). That end of the axel is oddly shaped in my car (2007 A4) and you need the original boot’s end because it matches the contour of the part and will give you a nice flat round shape to slide in your new boot into. If you don’t use it, the grease will leak out and water will get inside. .
No, cut the old boot out with the smaller trap still in(leaving it undisturbed)nearest to the transmission side. Cut it nice and clean and don't remove that part. Remove the strap only when you're ready to slip-in the new one over it for a perfect fit, so it won't leak in the future.
Were you replacing the inner or outer CV boot? It sounds like this may be an issue for only some vehicles. I believe most CV axles are round on both the wide mouth of the axle boot and the narrow end around the shaft (regardless of whether it's an inner or outer boot). Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you're saying that on your 2007 A4 your axle is not completely circular and so a universal split boot with a round narrow axle end will not work unless you leave the end lip of your original boot. Is that right?
Great Video!
I’m trying this tomorrow!
I'm doing the other one tomorrow as it happens too. Just to add, before I add the grease back in, I'm going to also smear/push in a small amount of ordinary silicone into the glued joint, on the inside, and give it an hour to dry (have a cuppa :) as I found a tiny spot of grease seeped through eventually on a different one I done - centrifugal force is very high - so this should make doubly sure this doesn't happen. It was only a tiny spot which wiped away but just to perfect it, Seán
Very well made video.
Using cling film was a great idea thanks for the tip
Thanks Dave, hope you've got it all back together by now :) Seán 👍
I was quoted $480 to get mine done,I'll go this way,you sealed the deal with the best video I've seen on this job,made me feel relaxed enough that I can do the job myself.
Just make sure to take your time, no hurry, do the thin part that's going to be under the clamp first like in the video, and work your way along making sure that you glue gets in as far as the last part that's glued. Before you clamp it up just check the inside to make sure it's all sitting ok - the joint should be well able to take the stretching once it's glued for a few minutes. Blow a hair dryer in there if it's a cold day or warm up the boot on the radiator before you start, it helps activate the glue ...
All the best!
Seán
Thank you very much. =)
Thank you
Excellent video thank you. Questions, about how much time did it take for the whole procedure and how's it holding up, any issues?
That one took over an hour overall but videoing it added a good bit of that.
I checked it about a month later before NCT(National Car Test) and did notice a tiny spot of grease coming out at the top of one of the joints where I'd missed with the glue but it wiped clean. I washed it with a brush and white spirits, let it dry and squeezed some more glue into the joint.
On other ones I've done since I push some Silicone rubber(colour not important as it won't be seen) into the joint on the inside as well and give it an hour to set before I add the CV Grease and that seems to solve this,
Seán
I did my outer cv boot and after initial gluing I ran a bead of the rubber cement all along the seam to ensure no future separations along the seam. So far so good. Great video.
Looks like a good job, but is it more hassle than taking the drive shaft out?
I have to do this myself and I'm not sure which way to go...
I think it is anyway, Seán
On some vehicles pulling the axle shaft is not a simple or easy process. I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 and pulling the axle shaft to replace it with an OEM boot presents new risks that a split boot replacement does not. In my case, the inner CV boot tear was caught before any deterioration of the joint -- pulling the axle may result in a leaky seal on the transmission side. It also requires additional tools like a large socket for the axle nut and a hefty breaker bar. My mechanic with 35 years of experience indicated the inner CV joint can go another 75k miles or longer without making a peep if you replace with a split boot. If you waited too long and you're already getting noise from the axle, then, yes, replace the axle shaft.
Which brand did you buy? Need to do mine this week. Mot due next week.
I think it was a Sealey brand Duncan if I remember correctly but it was whatever my local MotorFactor had in stock.
Just check the 'out-of-date' date as the glue might be gone hard,
All the best, Seám
A best a temporary fix , stretch boots have made split boots obsolete. Stretch boots are fitted at DIY level using a cone, but even the pro-level tool is not that expensive.
I done this over two years ago so it's been through two NCT's since. Stretch boots are very good - agreed - but there is a bit more work involved too.
After 2 years is the boot holding up?
Hi Michael, it passed the NCT just last week so if there was a problem with it they'd have failed it ... for even a pin-hole. All the best and thanks for askin'! Seán
Does this work for the inner boot which is the boot near the engine ?
Hello,
I've never had an inner one tear, maybe as they don't get the same movement as the outer one. I see specific inner Boots listed online though - web address at end.
I'd imagine you'd know by looking at it if it is suitable. Sorry I couldn't give clearer information,
Seán
www.amazon.co.uk/STICKY-SPLIT-DRIVESHAFT-GAITER-INNER/dp/B008B5HFHW/ref=asc_df_B008B5HFHW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499298107818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10206693788583478242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007871&hvtargid=pla-1239254603918&psc=1
Can you use the existing boot instead of slit boots?
The 'Split Boot' is specially designed for one-side's edge to sit into place with it's opposite-side's edge and be glued in place - a raised line and a recessed line - so I don't think a standard boot would work. They're very cheap to buy anyway,
Seán
better to remove the old grease
where can i buy for my toyota corolla big body
I've had a look at what you mean by 'Big Body' and any of the Corolla Big Body CV Joints that are worked on all appear similar to the Universal Split-Boot I used - but you probably have to cut the boot in a different place, or maybe no need to cut at all.
No information on where to buy split boot or what kind of glue😏
@@joemartinez2425 Hi Joe, Any Motorfactor should have them(or ebay) and the glue usually comes with the kit along with gloves, a blade and both big and small steel bands. The only thing you should need to buy extra is the crimping pliers and I recommend getting a decent one as the cheaper one I got snapped on the second fitting,
Seán
Does ANYONE make a split steering rack boot like that???
i dont think so since steering rack is just 1 bolt
10x harder to do than just remove