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I haven't seen one if there are but if you can test one on another golf that is working normally you'd find out the normal voltage and compare ... there are enough of them out there :) I didn't get that technical, just started taking it apart until I found areas like worn or corroded contacts that might be causing the problem.

Hope it helped, Seán

Just make sure to take your time, no hurry, do the thin part that's going to be under the clamp first like in the video, and work your way along making sure that you glue gets in as far as the last part that's glued. Before you clamp it up just check the inside to make sure it's all sitting ok - the joint should be well able to take the stretching once it's glued for a few minutes. Blow a hair dryer in there if it's a cold day or warm up the boot on the radiator before you start, it helps activate the glue ... All the best! Seán

The 'Split Boot' is specially designed for one-side's edge to sit into place with it's opposite-side's edge and be glued in place - a raised line and a recessed line - so I don't think a standard boot would work. They're very cheap to buy anyway, Seán

Hello Ash, The broken steering lock was my problem too, although mine wasn't stuck in the 'on' position as it appears yours is. The solution I imagine is the same, that is to remove the steering lock mechanism and free-up the steering. It should come down once the spring that pushes it up is removed. The hole I drilled in the bottom of the steering was the way I got it out, straight down. Hopefully this helps, Seán

Thank you very much for the reply. Done the same but unable to turn the key still.

Some one coming to change the barrel tomorrow

Hi, Sorry about the late reply. If you haven't got it sorted yet can I check, when you say it blows faintly are you referring to the strength of the fans air flow or the heat temp? The Heat Sensor informs the Onboard Computer about the temp of the engine so it regulates fuel/oxygen mix etc whereas the thermostat just opens and closes to regulate the flow of water/coolant through the engine, depending on the water temp flowing through it. Is this of any use? Seán

Hi Michael, it passed the NCT just last week so if there was a problem with it they'd have failed it ... for even a pin-hole. All the best and thanks for askin'! Seán

Thanks, Seán

I done this over two years ago so it's been through two NCT's since. Stretch boots are very good - agreed - but there is a bit more work involved too.

I think it is anyway, Seán

On some vehicles pulling the axle shaft is not a simple or easy process. I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 and pulling the axle shaft to replace it with an OEM boot presents new risks that a split boot replacement does not. In my case, the inner CV boot tear was caught before any deterioration of the joint -- pulling the axle may result in a leaky seal on the transmission side. It also requires additional tools like a large socket for the axle nut and a hefty breaker bar. My mechanic with 35 years of experience indicated the inner CV joint can go another 75k miles or longer without making a peep if you replace with a split boot. If you waited too long and you're already getting noise from the axle, then, yes, replace the axle shaft.

Hello, I used the wire to maneuver the larger piece so it fitted out. I had to add corners on to the hole - 7:55 on video - using the side of the drill and a small grinding piece. It slipped out so quick I didn't manage to get it on the video. Hope this helps, Seán

Yeah I see that part but I mean the lower part which is hard to see but is there at 6:06 and then gone in the next shot at 6:28 before the steering control module is removed.

@@knickerzz6916 'Morning, Everything inside the 'ledge' was part of the steering lock mechanism and was broken and had to be removed. The first circular ring part came out in bits through the front. It looks like it was complete in the video but when I started to remove it it was broken and came out in parts.

I had no problem with the NCT. Checking the NCT Preparation Guide on this it says "It is acceptable for a steering lock to be missing or inoperative provided the vehicle has an engine immobiliser, or a permanently installed immobilisation device which acts on either the steering, brakes or the transmission" see under 7.3 Locks and Anti-Theft Devices- www.ncts.ie/media/aidher01/nct_manual_2023.pdf

... and good luck in the NCT :) Seán

Great stuff Seán thanks 👍

Hi, just the cheaper petroleum wax, coloured with wax crayon - same type that is in candles. The micro-crystalline is better(more flexible for working on afterwards) but about twice the price, Seán

I'm blushing ... but thanks very much for the kind comment, Seán

I'm doing the other one tomorrow as it happens too. Just to add, before I add the grease back in, I'm going to also smear/push in a small amount of ordinary silicone into the glued joint, on the inside, and give it an hour to dry (have a cuppa :) as I found a tiny spot of grease seeped through eventually on a different one I done - centrifugal force is very high - so this should make doubly sure this doesn't happen. It was only a tiny spot which wiped away but just to perfect it, Seán

Hah! I suppose you can look at that in two ways Timothy ... needing the repairs in the first place or the fact that they last long enough to require repairs 'eventually' ... at least with the Golf anyway :) Seán

That one took over an hour overall but videoing it added a good bit of that. I checked it about a month later before NCT(National Car Test) and did notice a tiny spot of grease coming out at the top of one of the joints where I'd missed with the glue but it wiped clean. I washed it with a brush and white spirits, let it dry and squeezed some more glue into the joint. On other ones I've done since I push some Silicone rubber(colour not important as it won't be seen) into the joint on the inside as well and give it an hour to set before I add the CV Grease and that seems to solve this, Seán

I did my outer cv boot and after initial gluing I ran a bead of the rubber cement all along the seam to ensure no future separations along the seam. So far so good. Great video.

Hello, thanks for your comment. Perhaps you may not have read my reply to the 'upper comment' to clarify? How would you explain it to the Judge … my car measures in miles per hour and I was driving at 10 miles over the speed limit but the Speed Camera measured me at 16.1 km over the speed limit so it was incorrect ??? I’m afraid you’re still getting the ticket whether you measure it in miles or KM ‘cause the actual speed you were travelling at is still the same, and the same amount over the speed limit. Anyway, if you jump the video forward to 1.31 you'll see the printed foil from my old speedo has both the Miles and Kilometers marked so you can read in both Miles and KM ... so it measures the speed. So at 50 mph the speedo arm will be at the position it has been graduated to for 50 miles ... which is 80km. Granted, if you take your foil from a different model car ... firstly it probably won't fit but also it most likely would be graduated differently, but you could confirm by placing one over the other and holding up to the light to establish that both 0's match, and the 50 miles mark match with the 80km mark ... like that great scene from the film 'This is Spinal Tap' where the guitar is graduated up to 11 :) With regard to cutting the Foil … fair enough, I didn’t need to cut it but the internal spring mechanism of that speedo arm is so fragile, if the top doesn’t pop off easy(which it didn't) you risk damaging the system inside … then it most probably wouldn't measure correctly … in miles or kilometers. All the best ! Seán

Hello, I've never had an inner one tear, maybe as they don't get the same movement as the outer one. I see specific inner Boots listed online though - web address at end. I'd imagine you'd know by looking at it if it is suitable. Sorry I couldn't give clearer information, Seán www.amazon.co.uk/STICKY-SPLIT-DRIVESHAFT-GAITER-INNER/dp/B008B5HFHW/ref=asc_df_B008B5HFHW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499298107818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10206693788583478242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007871&hvtargid=pla-1239254603918&psc=1

Speed is independent of whether you measure in Miles, KM - just the graduations are different - 10km will always be 6.21 miles. The old one has the KM graduations also, alongside the larger miles graduation on the outside, but smaller, so it was easy to confirm that the needle was giving the same reading. Just to be doubly sure I done a few test runs with the SatNav to confirm. I did get little shock though on a different Golf where the previous owner had changed to a larger diameter alloy rim and tyre without re-calibrating the onboard computer ... now that gave an inaccurate reading all-right - I noticed when the speed fines started comin' in :( All the best, Seán

Hello April, ***Important*** I only consider it suitable on less-sensitive areas of the body eg hands - First apply Petroleum Jelly(Vaseline) onto skin to prevent the small hairs from getting caught in the plaster when hardened by keeping it 'flat' against the skin. If I am using on more sensitive areas of the body eg Face I prefer to use Alginate without any barrier, then a rough plaster bandage shell over it to hold shape. Other videos I made that might be also suitable - czcams.com/video/RekrYgwC3gg/video.html or czcams.com/video/HDl2YobOSJk/video.html or czcams.com/video/vqzf28aPias/video.html All the best, Seán

@Keep it as simple as you can it is not just because it can stick, it's because plaster heats up and can burn skin. People have lost fingers in hand moulds before. Also, someone else could copy you and not do it the way you do it. It is important to educate correctly.

@@aprilgreen1970 Hi again April, this is a plaster 'bandage' mould not a plaster block mould - a very different casting process.

@@aprilgreen1970 "someone else could copy you and not do it the way you do it. It is important to educate correctly" ... sorry, you've lost me ???

@Keep it as simple as you can Videos are educational. I was never taught to apply plaster/plaster bandages to skin whatever the situation, so I'm just explaining that people copy what you do, but without correct steps with the correct products for the task, they can make serious mistakes. I am not trying to lecture, just commentating on what I know so I will leave it there, thank you.

I think it was a Sealey brand Duncan if I remember correctly but it was whatever my local MotorFactor had in stock. Just check the 'out-of-date' date as the glue might be gone hard, All the best, Seám

I've had a look at what you mean by 'Big Body' and any of the Corolla Big Body CV Joints that are worked on all appear similar to the Universal Split-Boot I used - but you probably have to cut the boot in a different place, or maybe no need to cut at all.

No information on where to buy split boot or what kind of glue😏

@@joemartinez2425 Hi Joe, Any Motorfactor should have them(or ebay) and the glue usually comes with the kit along with gloves, a blade and both big and small steel bands. The only thing you should need to buy extra is the crimping pliers and I recommend getting a decent one as the cheaper one I got snapped on the second fitting, Seán

Hello Den, as it stopped working and then worked again suggests that there's something disconnecting or catching rather than a burned-out motor - a couple of sharp taps while you try opening it is always worth a try before dismantling it ??, Seán

Hello, I used 6mm dia. but I would've used 5mm Gutter Bolts if I had them, because they are flatter head and bolt, Seán

Sorry for the late reply Ryan - does the engine actually turn over and not start or does the engine do nothing? If the engine turns over and doesn't start then I'd be thinking first that the Keycode chip in the key is not matched(or something amiss) with the cars Computer Unit? After this I'd start looking into the wiring, or make sure the unit at the bottom(other end of steering barrel) is connecting properly, Seán

i dont think so since steering rack is just 1 bolt

No, cut the old boot out with the smaller trap still in(leaving it undisturbed)nearest to the transmission side. Cut it nice and clean and don't remove that part. Remove the strap only when you're ready to slip-in the new one over it for a perfect fit, so it won't leak in the future.

Were you replacing the inner or outer CV boot? It sounds like this may be an issue for only some vehicles. I believe most CV axles are round on both the wide mouth of the axle boot and the narrow end around the shaft (regardless of whether it's an inner or outer boot). Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you're saying that on your 2007 A4 your axle is not completely circular and so a universal split boot with a round narrow axle end will not work unless you leave the end lip of your original boot. Is that right?

A T40 star-head fits it.

Try the easiest first so try WD40 or similar oil into lock. This will help with both the electrical connection and any physical sticking of the mechanism. Also, pop off the plastic circle inside the boot , spray from here too, and check how this emergency opening point works, Seán

@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 I will try, and I will also check the power supply, that there is no imperfect contact on the electrical path

'Morning Evert, line up the two half-circle holes(on position) then insert the paper clip. Hopefully you'll be able to do this as sometimes/most-times the pieces that jam up the mechanism on the inside make turning the ignition to this point difficult. If you can't line them up then try to insert it anyway or a thin needle held by a pliers as you just need to press down the clip that stops it sliding out, Seán

@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 Thanks for the speedy reply. Will give it my best shot. Great video.

Hello David - from what you describe it sounds like this piece is from the first part of the ignition( the part that holds the key - the part that's in my hand at 4min20sec of video) this may pop out when removing this part but probably isn't the reason you had to take the barrel apart in the first place. Check if the inside part of the barrel turns ok with a flathead screwdriver. If it doesn't then the problem is inside here, Seán

@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 hi Sean thanks for your reply, I've check in around and found no more broken pieces etc, the ignition turns fine, I assembled it all back together and befre I put the barrel on, I turned the ignition with a flat head screw driver all is fine the car is turning over ok, my issue now is once the barrel is on and back in place I insert the key and it's not Turning properly at all, I don't know why, I've had the barrel check all is fine with that also, any further advice be much appreciated, I've had no car for over a week now :/

@@dmahn90 Hello again David, if the inner ignition mechanism turns smoothly with a flat screwdriver all the time when you have the front part of the key barrel out, and there are no broken parts inside then that points to the first part of the key barrel itself. Have you got/tried your second key? Maybe your key is worn and just doesn't unlock the key barrel properly anymore. You'll know this anyway when you have the two parts of the key barrel separated and if you can turn the key in the ignition when it's out of the barrel, Seán

@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 hi, well I seems to be the lock in the inside is the problem, I got the barrel on and she i tried Turning it its getting stuck I can hear the lock it's self clicking on the inside, I don't have the proper tools to drill out the lock like you did and that would possibly sort all my problems, so I'm getting a locksmith out today to replace the lot, it's costly but I'm in need of the car ASAP, thanks for all the info Sean greatly explained.

@@dmahn90 'Morning David, it mightn't be the standard locksmith job so don't be surprised if he/she goes 's*@t !' Just in case though, you'll only need to drill the hole if you can't get all the broken pieces out, and any drill shoild do - as it's aluminium(softer than steel) the drill can be used to grind to grind by putting light sideways pressure in the hole. Just remember to wear goggles in case it breaks, Seán

Keep us updated on your progress :) Seán

@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 had to take the whole thing out. My key would not turn enough to insert the wire. Drilled the bolt heads and used a screw extractor. Replaced the cylinder. Car is fixed.

Great to hear. It's difficult to imagine that this appears to be such a common problem. Take care! Seán

Thanks Dave, hope you've got it all back together by now :) Seán 👍

My key wouldn't turn either. I sprayed WD40 oil into it and kept 'jiggling' it back and forward until it turned. Have you tried this already? Seán

And if this doesn't work you could just go straight to drilling the hole underneath the actual steering-lock area and take out some broken pieces. this should allow the key to turn.

Thanks for this Craig. Drilling the 3mm hole and hammerin' in the t15 bit is a great idea allright, certainly if the preferred option is to remove the whole unit . From what I gathered from other videos on this, these shear bolts aren't very tight. I just wanted to remove the lock mechanism in it's entirety - not just the shrapnel - and get back to driving. The key itself is chipped so this is security enough ... hopefully! Thanks again, Seán

I got a small pin drift through the hole on the plastic casing and tapped the right hand bolt out quickly. The left hand bolt has poor access to do this so I snipped just enough plastic housing away to do the same. I replaced it with standard 16mm length M8 bolts. Drilling would’ve been cleaner but my car broke down in a parking bay with no access to power. 🙁

I vouch for the first point. by far the easiest way to remove the bolts is to drill a hole in it and hammer a bit into it, no amount of tapping could relase the bolts on mine, luckily i saw this comment after breaking every 'screw extractor' tool. make sure to use a sharp HSS or metal drill bit. also it isnt really possible to make a straight hole as the dash is in the way, it doesnt matter as long as the bit is hammered in place. ps. i removed 4 screws this way with ease. Thanks !!

Sounds like some physical problem inside the lock if it won't open with the plastic manual lever that you can access from inside the car(hidden behind plastic pop-off cover). If you have a long-nosed vice-grip try it too. All the best, Seán

I have the same problem! I tried to open it with the manual lock on the inside of the door and it broke. Any suggestions??

Thanks very much! Hope it helped, Seán

È bello sapere che l'hai fatto funzionare di nuovo. Da quello che vedo, Audi, Seat, Skoda e VW condividono tutte accensioni simili. Is míse le meas! Seán