Part 13: 1966 Chevrolet C10 & C20 Full Brake Job & Full Floating Axle - 1960's-1990's Drum Brakes
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- čas přidán 11. 02. 2021
- Help me out as we do a complete brake job on the old '66. We will remove everything down to the backing plates. We will clean and rebuild everything. We will replace all the shoes and turn the drums, rebuild all the wheel cylinders and adjust all the bearings.
Wife has been in bed for two hours me I am watching a 1966 brake teardown Yes I am happy in my life and all is good. oh I just bought a 66 going tro be delivered here in a week... I am already wanting to start restoring it.
Bought my first project truck as a birthday gift to myself. This is the first video I'm watching on the road to restoring a '66 C20. This was a VERY EDUCATIONAL start. THANK YOU!!!
Congratulations! Have fun, be careful, and thanks for watching!
Excellent! Thank you for sharing. Love that press.
Thats crazy. I cleaned up my cylinders and got them ready for new seals and caps
When I went to get them. There wasn't much difference in buying rebuilt cylinders already put together.
I cleaned up the inside with steel wool and a drill bit on my drill.Did it for nothing 😂
But hey they came out awesome 👌
Wow this is just what I needed! Thanks so much
Great work. I am 67 and have owned numerous Chevy trucks and cars . 1967 GTO, 1955 Chev, 1962 Impala, 1964 c10 , 1965 C10, 1979 C30, 1998 C2500. I loved your comment about the gear oil smell. My wife agreed . Thanks for showing the correct procedures for these brake systems. I learned this after attending community college for auto mechanics after getting out of the Marine Corps 47 years ago. You are a great teacher as well as a superior mechanic . Great job.
FANTASTIC VIDEO! I've got a 69 C20 that I suspect has a bad rear wheel cylinder based on how the e-brake won't hold (and it is adjusted as far as it will go) on the slightest hill and the fact I keep having to add brake fluid. You'd think one of the wheels would show sign of the leak since I am going through that much fluid, but there is none. I learned all my mechanic skills (along with a lot of other things , electrical, plumbing, you name it) from my dad and I've worked on my own cars for 40+ years. I lost dad as well as his very close mechanic friend within 6 months of each other 7 years ago. Now if I ever get stuck on anything I don't have my go to guys to call for help. When it came to this truck (which was my dads), the removal of the rear axel scared me a bit. Finally someone posted a video showing everything. End of last year I called around to have someone do the brake job for me and no one wants to work on a rig that old. The one brake shop I called said parts are too hard to find and didn't want to take up one of his bays waiting for parts. I ended up buying everything to do the both front and rear. We're talking drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, brake hoses, master cylinder, the spring kits, you name it I bought it. I might just attempt to do it myself now after watching. Any idea if the J2222-02 would be the same for a 69 C-20? That's a handy tool and needing 175 lbs #'s on the outside nut its not like you can do it any other way! Thank you, great video!
Well, if you were anywhere near Kansas I would happy to do it for you. This is the whole reason why I started making these videos, few know how to work on them anymore. Obviously the guy just didn't want to work on it because I went to my local parts store and they could get all the parts I needed.
My best advice is to buy a factory service manual. I'm pretty sure the tool will be the same but that will tell you for sure and it will also answer any other questions you may get stuck on. Just make sure its the genuine Chevy book and not a Chiltons or Haynes or any of those worthless things.
You deserve an award, you really do. I watch alot of youtub video, I never subscribe to any of them, which I should, but you just set the BAR at the top. You should teach others how to make these videos. I just bought a 65 and was fighting with the first drum, but I'm ready now. I don't often, to many times, go back and watch all the videos of a producer. But I;m telling you I;m going back to watch all of yours. excellent, absolutely excellent. Keep up the great work. You seem like the type of person you just want to go for a beer with. Thanks again.
Thanks a lot, I appreciate the kind words!
I agree 100 I also don’t subscribe but I did now
Or can you just come take care of mine. It would be nice to know that it’s getting done right
Love the videos. Thanks for explaining all about the older generation brakes too. I’m working on restoring my first truck (1963 C30) and I’ve been watching all your awesome videos. Thanks for investing all the time you have.
Back in the eighties I had a 66 Chevy and I didn't have any help I didn't have a nice tool like that can be done regardless. I like the brake drums I think they worked well maybe not the best they did well
I appreciate the details provided in assembly. Good job.
Thank you sir. Best video I found to rebuild my brakes
Glad it helped
Greatly appreciate the detail in your video. Great job thank you!!
Me and you Would Hit it Off. Im 55 from Michigan. 3rd Gen Auto Worker , both Grandpas where Farmers. My Dad Drag Raced in the 60s and early 70s. Grew up with Old Chevys Mainly. But we both Work alike. I won't do it - unless it's Done Right. I've been off work and Really enjoyed watching your work. I've had about every year Chevy trucks you been working on. I just bought a 1984 4x4 short 350- 465 4 speed from Montana, and my Son Got a 79 4x4 long box 3/4 ton 465 4speed , from Montana. Bodys are Rock Solid. We are puting a motor in my boys truck. Rod Knock. Keep up the Great Work.
Thanks a lot and have fun with your projects! Perhaps cleaning every part inside a drum brake is a little weird but it would just feel wrong otherwise! Thanks for watching.
Thank You for sharing this. I do believe that a semi-floating rear axle design would be more like an 8 or 9" Ford or '55 to '64 Chevrolet pass. car. So your GMC truck would really be considered non-floating because the axle bearing is not attached to the housing by a retaining system using bolts .
☆👏Nice work!
It’s nice of Methuselah to let you use his press.
Awesome video. I'm currently doing a frame off on a 66 3/4 ton. You confirmed I did things right and showed what I forgot (cooper washers in new front brake hoses. TY!
there's always something! happens to me all the time as well. good luck on the truck and thanks for watching
I was lucky and only had to take one of the hoses off again to install the copper washer when I did this last week.
i ha d that same suspension and rear axle (ho52) in my 67C20, i ended up replacing it with a late 70s 14 bolt. it was the single best upgrade ive done to that truck in all of the years that ive owned it.
Could i ask what you like better about it? I have the HO52 in my 65 and from what ive read they are pretty bulletproof and sought after by some communities.
@@austincurrier7460 they are bullet proof but the problem I faced when my h.o.52 went out was parts availability was really really bad. It was more cost effective for me to have a 14 bolt built and dropped in than rebuilt the old one, that and I think the tallest gears I could get were 3.90.. I ran 4.56 for years and just wanted a bit more highway speed
My 14 bolt is rocking a 3.73 ratio with an Eaton true Trac, it's also got a b&m aluminum cover that makes it hold way more fluid..
I BOUGHT A BOX FULL OF WHEEL CYLINDER REBUILD KITS OFF EBAY , FOR FUTURE BUILDS , NOW IF I COULD JUST REMEMBER WHERE I PUT THEM
Excellent video! Just came across this and I subscribed..... I have a 1969 Chevrolet C20, 4 speed, 396 engine....the rear, driver's side wheel cylinder must of went bad, had fluid on the tire, so it's a good opportunity to go thru the entire brake system....
Sounds like a great pickup, thanks for watching!
I had the same happen with the passenger front. Took the opportunity to replace the rear brake hose because it was in rough shape and ended up having to replace two steel lines while I was at it.
Hey there. Quick question. I replaced my 66 c10 master cylinder with the exact one you used in this video. However, the front brass plug weeps brake fluid no matter what I do. I have cranked down on it about as hard as I dare and even added teflon tape (I know...) and it still wants to ever so slowly weep under braking conditions. Any suggestions on how to stop the weeping of brake fluid from the plug? Also, thanks for showing the bench bleeding process.
honestly I may try to exchange it for another one. it makes me wonder if either the threads are messed up on the casting or plug, or there is a crack in the casting.
Hi, I saw that you removed the seal out of the rear hub to get the inner bearing out. Just wondering how you get the outer bearing out?
I have removed the big fat circlip but I still can’t get the bearing out. Do you have to split the hub to get it out?
Also, would you have any idea what supplier in the U.S. would have a upper steering column bearing? Mine is a 69 C20 and I am finding it difficult to source one ( I am in Australia which doesn’t help.)
Thanks for the vid, it was the best on pulling apart and re assemble that I have found. All I need to source now is one of those sockets that you used.
Cheers Stu
Great video. I have a friend who has a 1966 GMC truck and there are no parking brake cables going in the rear drums. It looks like some of the cables are under the truck but just holes going into the backing plates. Do you have a link to a parts diagram? Thanks and great work.
Thanks for the video, this will be very helpful when I get around to doing the brakes on my '65 GMC 3/4 ton. One upgrade I'm going to do is to switch over to a dual pot master cylinder from a 67-72 C10/C20. From a safety perspective it is quite an important upgrade. I was wondering why you went with the stock single pot master cylinder?
Great question! The goal of both projects that I have been doing, is to simply get them running and driving again after many years of just sittin'. In both cases money is a definite factor and I'm limiting what I do to what I feel is completely necessary and what the owner wants done. Perhaps down the road he will feel like doing that project. Besides, in an emergency there's always that nice big parking brake handle just begging to be pulled!
I have a 1964 GMC 1 ton truck I went to replace the rear breaks and none of the bearings ,shims and dont see how this axel was held in would you happen to know where I can get a diagram to put it all back together because my wife is torturing me. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you you have a great show.
Does anyone know where I can get the top stud? I busted mine and having a heck of a time finding one for those years and model.
Great video, You wouldn't know where i could find those push rods for the brake cylinder would you? The guts on my drivers side are gone i have found everything except those push rods and when i try ordering from VIP ect. i get a message that that part doesn't fit my truck. 65 c10 1/2 ton..
Not sure where to find any new ones unless you happen to hit one on ebay. You could also send one to me and I could fabricate a couple for you. Go to ratzlaffmotorco.com >Rebuild Service>ACRS Sheet or just email me at ratzlaffmotorco.com
How many ton jackstands are those?
I just did this job a few days ago on my 65. It really annoyed me that I couldn't get a wrench on the bleeding screw. It is hard to see air bubbles when the nipple is inside a socket.
Subscribed. I like that you pointed out nothing beats original parts. Pulled my bearings out and they look fantastic and are stamped made in usa! Painted my 65 c20 frame today. enjoying your videos as i go through my build. Did you rebuild the control arm shafts too? im having the hardest time finding the rubber bushings for the lower control arm shafts. Im hoping they are the same bushings as the lower control straight shafts the 67-72 c20 uses.
Thanks a lot for your comments. No, I didn't have to pull apart the suspension on that project. And being that you're working with a C20, parts are harder to find. There is some overlap in the parts they used from one body style to the next so I hope you're right as well. Let me know how it goes!
Do you know the bearing numbers and race numbers for front inner and outer? Also rear.
What size jackstands are you using?
What part number is that seal??
Found your channel because of the old c10. Love the progress videos! You seem to be pretty knowledgeable I have a 1966 k10. I'm wanting to convert the front drums to disc but haven't had any luck. What would you recommend to do a swap from drums to disc on a 4x4 model? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! God bless.
I would start with CPP classic performance products. I've used them before but not for 4x4.
@@TheJayhawker appreciate the feedback I will give those a look and see what I can find. Thanks again👍
Question you don't have to pull C clips out to remove the axel shaft
So if you watch again starting around 45:00 you will see that there are no clips holding a full floating axle in. On a typical semi floating axle, the clips are all that hold your axle in. On a full floating axle the hub and brake drum are held onto the axle housing with the large nut and then the axle itself is held in by the eight bolts going into the hub. Thanks for watching!
Hi I notice in a few videos you use "Silicone" (Oil pan gasket and backing plate on brakes). What silicone specifically are you using? Brand / Name?
Typically I use Permatex Black RTV
Very useful video Thank You! Feel confident to do it to my 70 C20. Where did you get your brakes and bearings?
For the rear drums only
From my local Bumper to Bumper parts store.
So where do you connect the parking brake line?
The parking brake uses a lever and steel cables. Skip to the 1:00:00 mark and I am attached the new brake shoes to the cable ends. Thanks
@@TheJayhawker of course but i have the type that you have in mind
30. It doesn't have a hook for the line and I see the line going back there just not where it connects.
Can you use brake grease and anti-seize interchangeably? I enjoyed the whole video. Thank you. I learned alot.
I think I primarily tend to use anti-seize on drum brake parts because that's what the old school guys I learned from used on them. On disc brake parts however I tend to use the grease.
@@TheJayhawker Thank you.
MY 1970 C20 front brake gets hot --we have replaced the cyl/hose/master cyl/and this brake will not relax.Bled the system--- the front brake shoe is wearing away and the rear shoe on the front drum brake is not. the left front does not get hot and is working the two rear are working well the truck will stop but for some unknown reason the right front shoe is super heating the drum in less than ten miles. is it the proportion valve and if so why is just the front shoe and not the rear shoe wearing??? springs have been replaced --I have relaxed the brakes on the right side and they tighten up in just a few seconds when I put it back together and start driving the steering wheel grabs to the right even if I have adjusted it so the left is tighter than the right.. Perhaps you can deduce what the problem is and make me happy.Hope so anyway --like your web page Bob aka Jarhead old Marine Corps sniper in sunny Wildwood Florida where the gator roam free as do we.
You skipped over reinstalling all the hardware on rear brakes not very helpful
at all shouldn’t waste everyone’s time watching one of your video’s it’ll. E the last time I watch one
The rear brakes are basically exact copies of the fronts with the exception of the parking brake pieces which I believe I adequately showed and explained. Part of the "fun" of making public videos is that I have some people complaining that I don't show enough, and some that say they are way too long and that I go into too much detail. Luckily most people are thankful and encouraging for what I'm doing. How are your videos coming along? I would like to see how to do it right. Thanks for watching, and I hope you can eventually give me another chance. God Bless.