This is the type and quality of video that will help generations of folks who have limited to no experience with drum brakes. Very well done and EXTREMELY helpful! Thanks so much!
One of the best videos ever. Exact, precise, using tools you like. An incredible help replacing brakes / pads, cylinders and whatever. You make it look really easy. A few springs were tough. lol. GREAT VIDEO.
Nice video on drum brakes. This will be very helpful for folks from disc brake era. I remember 10 years old in my dads auto repair shop my first job 66 caddy 4 wheel drum brakes. Have fond memories of those days thanks..
Thank you for this very well done video. I appreciate the close ups of all the parts. Good lighting and camera angles too. I’m about to tackle this on my 66 Impala. Did it 15 years ago and completely forgot how to. You highlight all the watch outs. Thank You!
This is by far the best video I've used for working on my drum brakes. Especially because my car is also a 65 Impala, so everything looks exactly the same! :) Thanks for posting!
Thorough tutorial, good work! I recently replaced the shoes, wheel cylinders and backing plates on the rear of my '98 Honda CR-V, very similar procedure. One thing to add, I always chamfer the leading edge of the friction material on each shoe, just makes for smoother operation and dust dispersal.
Your are the best! This is a fantastic tutorial! Thank you. I have a 64 vette with drum brakes that need some love. Your video has given me the confidence to go get dirty.
Great teaching video, I've always worked on relatively current vehicles, so I was surprised to see that hose be a issue. Goes to show the vintage stuff requires an added perspective. Thanks for that insight!
Lots of good information. I would add use your mobile phone camera to take several pictures of the brake assembly before you begin to dismantle it. If you need to, move the pictures to a computer and display them on the larger screen so you can see where everything goes.
nicely done Barry. i always put a clear hose on the bleeder to a container , sure helps from cleaning the mess . and easier to see the air bubbles and .new fluid.
Great video Barry! I was in the process of making of a video about upgrading the brakes on my G20 van. If it's ok, instead of filming the drum brake portion I'm just going to send them to this video. You explained it better than I ever could!👍
Man I wished I would have found this video before I started yesterday lol. Luckily I told myself I might not have had everything correct even though I had everything back together. Mainly with the pivot cup and retaining springs....was left with that little washer that goes under the front spring on the forward or right side spring, I didn't see where it came from. Also I had the little C clip that holds the adjuster to the shoe, fly across the garage...couldn't believe I found it. But this video is the best one and I watched 3-4. My car is a 64' Impala and is identical to this car. Thanks!!!!!!
What about the front drum? Was wondering how much to tq the castle nut against the bearing to seat the hub and bearing, and then back off a turn or so?
@@kevins.3825 I can't say the exact torque. I always learned to do it y feel. Tighten the nut as you rotate the drum. You will feel it start to resist rotation. From there back it off just enough for a slight resistance. Set the caged nut on it and install cotter pin.
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing this on my chevelle restoration in the future. I have done this before about 40 years ago but the video was a good refresher for my memory. Thanks.
I would check that master cylinder, rebuild it or change it and flush the brake lines from crust. I have had failing master cylinders building pressure
Hey Barry, Great job on the video. Surprising but there are not many videos on this specific brake. Question about the bar?? You mention when you first installed the 'left' end of the bar that you are inserting it to match a notch in the primary shoe. It appears the notch is actually in the emergency brake lever. Or did I not see this correctly? Thanks!
Great video, thanks! I recently had someone tighten the drum brakes (all 4) on my 1969 Camaro and now have a vibration I feel through the driver's seat mostly under low-medium acceleration. Could this be caused by over-tightened rear drums? Any help appreciated.
I'm not sure what kind of Pontiac you have (always a good idea to share the model info), but the front ends may be incredibly similar across models. On my 67 Camaro, the rear cylinder exchanges were simple as shown in this video. The fronts were an absolute nightmare. On my front end, the cylinder bolts are diagonal from one another (not linear like the rears). Then the brake line angles out toward the rear with the bleeder valve angling out toward the front. The angles are to get around the linkages that hold the spindles in place. To get enough clearance around the wheel cylinder, I removed the hubs. Super easy. Just pop the caps off, remove the cotter pin, spin off the castle nut, and slide the hub off. From there, it's just an absolute mess. No way for me to use a ratchet on either bolt -- there's just no clearance back there, as it's a completely different experience from the rears. Could only get a wrench in there with minimal throw. Took a long time to unthread. Then, the brake line took 2 men and a boy to disconnect and uses a 5/8" wrench. Totally different from the rear lines. The only way that worked for me is to pull the cylinder and brake line forward through the hole ... which requires removing the bleeder valve first! So, yeah, after the two retaining bolts are removed, then I removed the bleeder valve. Pulled the brake line through the hole. Then, kroil + heat gun + channel locks on cylinder + another person wrenching = got the brake line off the cylinder. Then, I reversed the process to reinstall. It makes it smoother if you have a bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the bolt threads. Otherwise, they'll fight you every step of the way on the install. For bleeding, it was also super difficult. Because of the weird forward angle of the bleeder, it was not possible to get a flush wrench on the valve. Trying to find an angle to get a bite on the bleeder valve was challenge every single turn of the wrench -- it was an absolute full-body workout. Whoever designed this system needs to be beaten with a wrench. Good luck.
That bar is the linkage for the parking brake. Therefore, you'll only find it on the rear (or whichever axle of your car has the parking brake attached).
No. The reason is that replacing the front cylinders is about 25x more difficult on these old GMs. There are weird angles and the spindle/suspension components render ratchet useless. So, it's a very difficult and tedious job that NOBODY seems to ever show. At least, on my 67 Camaro, the difficulty of the fronts wasn't even comparable to the rears ... the fronts were in a different category altogether.
This is the type and quality of video that will help generations of folks who have limited to no experience with drum brakes. Very well done and EXTREMELY helpful! Thanks so much!
This is one great video. Commentary is well done and simple. Camera shot is just right. Thank you
One of the best videos ever. Exact, precise, using tools you like. An incredible help replacing brakes / pads, cylinders and whatever. You make it look really easy. A few springs were tough. lol. GREAT VIDEO.
The best tutorial on drum brakes ever. Especially liked the wheel cylinder replacement tips. Give yourself a ringy dingy. Thanks.
My first time doing drum breaks on my 66 ss impala this video was a big help
Very good video, every step covered, will use this to do my brakes on my 63.
Nice video on drum brakes. This will be very helpful for folks from disc brake era. I remember 10 years old in my dads auto repair shop my first job 66 caddy 4 wheel drum brakes. Have fond memories of those days thanks..
I noticed a spider crawling on the floor.it comes towards the drum on the floor when he shows his tools 😄
Thank you for this very well done video. I appreciate the close ups of all the parts. Good lighting and camera angles too. I’m about to tackle this on my 66 Impala. Did it 15 years ago and completely forgot how to. You highlight all the watch outs. Thank You!
Good video and details is a must and you showing where to put part's in their place is a must for someone that's never done it thumbs up.
Thank you so much. I had my rear end powder coated and totally forgot how it goes back together until now
This how a person is supposed to demonstrate. Great example. 👍
Excellent explanation. Perfect for a novice like me. This is my reference now. Thanks Man!
I have a 64 Pontiac Parisienne. A Canadian model same as a Chevy Impala. This is the best drum brake tutorial. Great detail.
This is by far the best video I've used for working on my drum brakes. Especially because my car is also a 65 Impala, so everything looks exactly the same! :) Thanks for posting!
Using vice clamps for the springs is GENIUS
They are still a pain in the dick to work with though
Thorough tutorial, good work!
I recently replaced the shoes, wheel cylinders and backing plates on the rear of my '98 Honda CR-V, very similar procedure.
One thing to add, I always chamfer the leading edge of the friction material on each shoe, just makes for smoother operation and dust dispersal.
Excellent job on this video - thank you!!
Your are the best! This is a fantastic tutorial! Thank you. I have a 64 vette with drum brakes that need some love. Your video has given me the confidence to go get dirty.
Thanks this was super helpful for my 67
Great teaching video, I've always worked on relatively current vehicles, so I was surprised to see that hose be a issue. Goes to show the vintage stuff requires an added perspective. Thanks for that insight!
Fantastic video, your a great teacher/educator. Thank you so much.
Lots of good information.
I would add use your mobile phone camera to take several pictures of the brake assembly before you begin to dismantle it.
If you need to, move the pictures to a computer and display them on the larger screen so you can see where everything goes.
Nice job and very knowledgeable. Keep up the good work. 👍
Helped me a ton! replacing wheel cylinders along with my master cylinder on my 67 caprice great stuff !! Thankyou !! Worked like a charm 👌🏽👌🏽
nicely done Barry. i always put a clear hose on the bleeder to a container , sure helps from cleaning the mess . and easier to see the air bubbles and .new fluid.
I do that as well. Just didn't think about it for this one.
Thank you for taking the time to share, great video!
thank you so much for the video! I have been looking for this for over a year. It was simple and very easy. Thanks!
Awsome instructor, Thank you!
I have a 63 impala that I make videos on and thank you so much. This helped a lot !
Very good video & well explained. Thank you crating this piece.
Great video Barry! I was in the process of making of a video about upgrading the brakes on my G20 van. If it's ok, instead of filming the drum brake portion I'm just going to send them to this video. You explained it better than I ever could!👍
Thanks. That's fine with me.
Very good video straight to the point no bs
This video really helped me out 😊 thank you
Thanks for the video ,it really helped
Nice work
Fantastic video, thank you! Very helpful!!!
Great instruction video! Thanks so much.
Jo Daddy 's Garage !!! Thank you for this very well done video 👍 Excelente su explicación en este video gracias 👌
You are awesome. Great video ❤
Man I wished I would have found this video before I started yesterday lol. Luckily I told myself I might not have had everything correct even though I had everything back together. Mainly with the pivot cup and retaining springs....was left with that little washer that goes under the front spring on the forward or right side spring, I didn't see where it came from. Also I had the little C clip that holds the adjuster to the shoe, fly across the garage...couldn't believe I found it. But this video is the best one and I watched 3-4. My car is a 64' Impala and is identical to this car. Thanks!!!!!!
What about the front drum? Was wondering how much to tq the castle nut against the bearing to seat the hub and bearing, and then back off a turn or so?
@@kevins.3825 I can't say the exact torque. I always learned to do it y feel. Tighten the nut as you rotate the drum. You will feel it start to resist rotation. From there back it off just enough for a slight resistance. Set the caged nut on it and install cotter pin.
@@JoDaddysGarage yeah that’s the way my grandfather taught me back in the 80’s just wasn’t sure if there was an actual spec. Thanks.
perfect details
thank you!
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing this on my chevelle restoration in the future. I have done this before about 40 years ago but the video was a good refresher for my memory. Thanks.
Thanks!
nice joe!,thnxamill!!
Nice video good detail A+ ICE CREAM
Excellent
MOST EXCELLENT 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🙏
💯👍thanks
I would check that master cylinder, rebuild it or change it and flush the brake lines from crust. I have had failing master cylinders building pressure
Good super video
I want the car.. you talked me in to it
I should have watched your video before replacing my brakes
Hey Barry, Great job on the video. Surprising but there are not many videos on this specific brake. Question about the bar?? You mention when you first installed the 'left' end of the bar that you are inserting it to match a notch in the primary shoe. It appears the notch is actually in the emergency brake lever. Or did I not see this correctly? Thanks!
The notch is in both the shoe, and parking brake lever.
Great video, thanks! I recently had someone tighten the drum brakes (all 4) on my 1969 Camaro and now have a vibration I feel through the driver's seat mostly under low-medium acceleration. Could this be caused by over-tightened rear drums? Any help appreciated.
Possibly.
How do you attach the parking brake cable ??? Or do you leave it attached?
You leave it attached.
I’ve got a 60 impala. Would the brakes look pretty close to being the same?
Should be. Drum brakes have been like this for a very long time.
I have a 1966 Pontiac. Trying to remove front wheel cylinders. How do I remove the front wheel cylinder Bolt?
Do you have to new cylinders? Look at where the bolt goes in the back. It's usually 1/2" head. Ratchet and socket should work.
I'm not sure what kind of Pontiac you have (always a good idea to share the model info), but the front ends may be incredibly similar across models. On my 67 Camaro, the rear cylinder exchanges were simple as shown in this video. The fronts were an absolute nightmare.
On my front end, the cylinder bolts are diagonal from one another (not linear like the rears). Then the brake line angles out toward the rear with the bleeder valve angling out toward the front. The angles are to get around the linkages that hold the spindles in place. To get enough clearance around the wheel cylinder, I removed the hubs. Super easy. Just pop the caps off, remove the cotter pin, spin off the castle nut, and slide the hub off.
From there, it's just an absolute mess. No way for me to use a ratchet on either bolt -- there's just no clearance back there, as it's a completely different experience from the rears. Could only get a wrench in there with minimal throw. Took a long time to unthread. Then, the brake line took 2 men and a boy to disconnect and uses a 5/8" wrench. Totally different from the rear lines. The only way that worked for me is to pull the cylinder and brake line forward through the hole ... which requires removing the bleeder valve first! So, yeah, after the two retaining bolts are removed, then I removed the bleeder valve. Pulled the brake line through the hole. Then, kroil + heat gun + channel locks on cylinder + another person wrenching = got the brake line off the cylinder.
Then, I reversed the process to reinstall. It makes it smoother if you have a bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the bolt threads. Otherwise, they'll fight you every step of the way on the install.
For bleeding, it was also super difficult. Because of the weird forward angle of the bleeder, it was not possible to get a flush wrench on the valve. Trying to find an angle to get a bite on the bleeder valve was challenge every single turn of the wrench -- it was an absolute full-body workout. Whoever designed this system needs to be beaten with a wrench.
Good luck.
I am putting shoes on a car that had NONE. I suspect that the horizontal "spacer" bar is NOT USED on the front. Is that correct?
I believe all drum brakes use that bar.
I have an old parts car and it didn't have the bar on front.
That bar is the linkage for the parking brake. Therefore, you'll only find it on the rear (or whichever axle of your car has the parking brake attached).
Doesn't anybody work on FRONT DRUM brake cylinders and rubber brake lines?
Mitch person love your break video on a1965 s/sport do all have a separater bar on them
No. The reason is that replacing the front cylinders is about 25x more difficult on these old GMs. There are weird angles and the spindle/suspension components render ratchet useless. So, it's a very difficult and tedious job that NOBODY seems to ever show. At least, on my 67 Camaro, the difficulty of the fronts wasn't even comparable to the rears ... the fronts were in a different category altogether.
seen a guy knock his front tooth out using visegrips as brake tool bad advice brother on tools proper tool is not expensive