Tesla Model 3 - 12V Battery + More
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2024
- Today I will go over the Model 3's 12V battery including accessing the frunk, testing voltage and amperage on my 2 year old car, and cover jumping a dead battery.
Great battery resource:
teslatap.com/articles/12-volt...
Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC300XL 900 Peak Amp Jump Starter $83
amzn.to/2zy9r5J (paid link)
Ohmuu 12V Battery $400-500
amzn.to/3b8HXkx (paid link)
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94.2% - Auta a dopravní prostředky
You should always remove the negative cable first, the chassis is a negative ground. If your wrench hits the chassis while touching the positive terminal, your gonna get a real surprise.
Thanks, when I do an update video, I will mention this.
5:30 is the quickest way of blowing the fuse in your multimeter lol often you cant see a correct parasitic drain test when the car in in an unlocked state, and disconnecting the battery on a locked car will trigger the alarm. need to slacken the NEGATIVE terminal, connect your meter to the post and cable, then disconnect the battery. (do not press any key buttons or trigger any wake up system on the car or you will blow the fuse in the meter.) Depending on the car this might need to be left in this state for a minimum of 10-15 minutes up to an hour to get a correct reading.
FANTASTIC video, super informative! Your videos are always concise, accurate and full of information.
Thanks for the compliments!
They finally changed this so you can't open a persons frunk with a 9 volt? Awesome! I was always hesitant to put anything of value in there knowing how easy it was to open.
The Model 3 and Y use a flooded cell battery, not an AGM.
In need of help.
I picked up my Model 3 a month ago. Love it. Previously, I had an ICE car (Subaru) and carried a small air compressor in the trunk - just in case.
This is what I bought, a few years ago: *Master Flow MF-1050 Tsunami Tire Inflator*
It has a 12 VDC motor that draws 30A, and has 'jumper cable' clamps to connect to a 12 V battery to operate.
The Tesla cigarette lighter jack supplies 10A(?), so cutting the clamps and soldering in a cigarette lighter adapter won't work.
If I need to operate the compressor for 10 minutes to inflate a tire with slow leak (say, there's an embedded nail), and Tesla's 12V battery supplies 45A, will the lithium batteries recharge the 12V battery, or is 30A too high a draw for 10 minutes?
I know I can buy another compressor, but I already have this one.
Honestly, this is a serious compressor designed for off-roading and I wouldn't use it with the Model 3. The Model 3/Y 12V battery is not designed for this type of use. I would recommend something like this: amzn.to/3K27goV It runs on battery or by 12V.
very good video as always. Have you touch up your model 3 yet? I recently got a rock chip on my rear driver side door. I'm not sure to get Tesla OEM paint kit or dr. Colorchip kit. Any idea?
Chris Brown I have been lucky so far. It also helps having ppf on the front (bumper, fenders, hood). I bought a Dr Colorchip touch-up about six months ago just in case. I’ve used them with three previous cars and it works well.
@@MTNRanger I also have PPF on the front. A rock hit my side door lol. I heard Dr. Colorchip lifespin is 1 year. Better store it in a cool place.
As long as they are sealed well I’ve had them last a few years. From what it looks like, the Tesla paint is made my Dr Colorchip. I don’t think it matters which one you choose.
On one hand you mention off-the-shelf replacement batteries while, later in the video, you suggest taking the car to Tesla for battery replacement. Given that when you removed the terminal connections you took the battery offline, is it correct that there's no secret handshake or special button in Service Mode needed to reset the battery? So if it were out of warranty, just go buy a new battery and slap it in.
Yes, I should have been more specific. Now that my car is out of warranty, I would simply purchase the $85 12V battery from Tesla and install it myself. When mine died last year, Tesla would only cover it under warranty if they did the installation.
@MTNRanger do you know where the LV Battery 12 volt temperature sensor is located? is it in the red (+) cable? They placed a new 12volt battery in the car yet i get the notification that the battery temperature sensor shot circuit. Could it be that they replaced the battery and left metal tools near the battery like you mention in the video not to do?
I looked in the service manual and it does not say where the battery temperature sensor is located. I would contact service and have them fix it.
they do not know. i saw that the postive and negative cables also can be replaced, if there is a short circuit could it it be in one of those cables? and could a sensor be in on of those cables?@@MTNRanger
Hi, does anyone know how powerful the step down dc to dc inverter used to charge the 12v battery is ? I am camping in my m3 lr and purchased a 12v inverter allowing me to use household appliances on the go. Knowing how powerful the charger is would be useful to know what I can expect to power for extended periods of time.
Good question. Lots of discussion on this topic here. It starts with the Model S specifically. teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/is-it-safe-to-connect-a-large-inverter-to-the-12v-battery.97744/#post-2297726
hey what is the voltage from the cables(from the converter) if the battery is disconnected? thank you
I don't know. I'll have to check that out at some point.
How do you open the frunk with the doors locked? Also how do you disable mobile access?
Supposedly the frunk will open when locked with a dead 12V battery. To turn off mobile access, go to the car’s Safety & Security menu, the option is at the bottom.
Tesla Tips by MTN Ranger Oh ok thanks for the info.
Do you have to pull the high voltage battery fuse prior to disconnecting 12V?
No, you don’t have to.
Tesla Tips by MTN Ranger well I recently had service and asked the Tesla mechanic. He advised pulling the battery disconnect under the rear seat first.
CoollllCat Thanks for letting me know that.
How do you check to verify the DC to DC voltage is functioning to ensure the charging is happening?
I replaced the 12v to lithium iron phosphate and its been great.
Now 2 years later: Twice I've had it throw error code and turn off 12v system off. Not stranded but lose cigarette lighter power and limited other functions. Each time i checked lithium iron battery was good and had around 12.4 voltage. Due to slightly low voltage, i manually charged battery and reset the system and code. No problems until a few months later same issue. Battery doesn't seem to be the problem.
That's one of the reasons I have stayed away from the Ohmmu batteries. Too many software issues, no proof that they last any longer, and too expensive. I suggest going back to the OEM 12V battery.
@@MTNRanger well i already did it, so I'm stuck. They do have a newer version of the OHMMU using bluetooth to fine tune charging parameters to avoid this fighting of software everytime Tesla make software adjustments.
Tesla is also part of the problem when they tune to stop things that they don't support you using.
I think lithium is better and it definitely will last longer physically. Just need some tuning of the system. Led acid batteries suck and don't last these days.
For years I wondered why they couldn't do everything without the battery and Tesla must have finally agreed. Mew Teslas are eliminating the need for this battery which seems to be the biggest failure rate on Tesla's being towed over this minor issue.
@@BoDiesel The LiPo 12V battery in new Teslas is a lot smaller now. It's a shame they can't retrofit older cars with them.
Thats so odd. My model 3 died today, and it would not power up even after jumping it with my suv, AAA truck, jump starter and a trickle charger. Would not power up to unlock the doors. Had to put it up on dollys and push it out my garage so the tow truck could hook it up. Tesla held it overnight and some how got it to open. Also had no warning messages
I have heard that can sometimes happen. The hood didn’t open when using the emergency connectors in the tow hook opening?
Deleted my first comment to give more context.
12v died in my M3 last night. Tried to open frunk with both a 9v battery and a new charger I had in garage. Neither worked.
Switched charger out to an older model and frunk opened.
12v was completely dead.
I'm curious, what were the two charger models? I'm assuming you mean a battery jumper like this: amzn.to/3rGY55B ?
@@MTNRanger the one that wouldn’t engage the frunk was a vector smart battery charger vec1095.
The one that engaged the frunk was a Schumacher se-82-6.
Interestingly, once the frunk was open. the Schumacher didn’t supply enough power to jump the battery so I had to switch back to the vector
@@VoyageWithoutCarbon Interesting, thanks for the detail.
The reason your one battery charger didn't work was that it's "smart" and will not put out any voltage unless it detects some voltage on the wires. This is used for reverse polarity protection, but the Tesla frunk jumper wires are not connected to the battery and will not show any voltage. So the "smart" charger or jumper will not output anything.
If I had an LED strip with two 12v wires, could I just simply connect them to this battery?
It’s usually better to tie into a 12v connection inside the car. But some people have connected accessories directly to the battery.
Maybe a stupid question - how you unlock your car with dead 12V battery to get frunk be opened? App will not work I assume?
As explained in the first couple minutes, you have to use a 9V battery with the 12V wires in the bumper tow bar opening to open the hood. Then you can jump or replace the 12V battery.
@@MTNRanger thanks, but you also explained this will not open the frunk with one of the latest updates if the car is closed. And if it is closed and 12 V battery is dead how you will open the car to use small 9V batterybfor frunk opening? Or did I get something wrong?
@@sergeyrudnitskiy7579 If the 12V battery is dead or the car is unlocked, the method I show will open the hood.
@@MTNRanger thanks again!
How do you unlock it if the battery (12Volt) is dead?
Once you open the hood by using the method I showed, you will need to either replace the dead 12V battery or use a portable jump starter powerbank to at least open the doors.
You mentioned that in order to open the frunk, the door has to be unlocked, but since the 12V battery is dead, how can you even unlock the door to perform the method you showed ?
@@KN-oh2ks There are two ways to open the frunk with this method. 1st: door is unlocked. 2nd: door is locked/12V battery dead. So if the 12V battery is working it will only open if the car is unlocked.
@@MTNRanger so if your 12v battery is dead, can you even access the door to unlock it? Something is missing here in your video. Cos you are trying to show a way to open the frunk when the 12v battery is still working though.
@@KN-oh2ks The door doesn't have to be unlocked if the 12V battery is dead.
He read the power drain wrong. To read amps you have to move the connector on the multi meter to amps on the left and not where he had it on the right for volts. So he read nothing with it not connected correct. Always move the connector back as soon are you are done or you will blow the fuse when you try to read volts connecting across the pos and neg terminals.
If you look closely you can see that he switched the DMM to current measurement. Gut a current draw of 0A would mean that absolutely no system starts when the battery is connected. My guess is that the DMMs fuse for the low current measurement range was broken which is typically fused at few amps.
@@christianbauer6443 but you have to switch teh DMM to current measurement and move the lead.
This soooo stupid of tesla. i mean, im still going to buy a model 3. So this is just ridiculous....
You mean having a 12V battery? Most, if not all EVs have them to power the accessory system and to be separate from the high voltage system for safety. Tesla is moving to Li-Fe-PO4 12V batteries in the Model S/X. They may eventually be available to the 3/Y - but they cost a lot more.