SYMPTOMS OF A BAD BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- In this video, you will learn 5 symptoms of a bad brake master cylinder. Watching this video will help you diagnose to see if it is time to replace your brake master cylinder. You will also learn how a brake master cylinder works. This video also teaches you where the brake master cylinder is located. Symptoms of a bad brake master cylinder that you may experience are brake fluid leak, fluid contamination, a spongy brake pedal, pedal sinking to the floor, and longer braking distance.
Thank you for watching!
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Dude, love this channel, super quick and to the point.
Ball joints and tie rods next please!
Facts
GREAT! Just what I need to know, my Manuel says nothing! Cheers! Keep up the legitimate information that you are spreading!
Very nice, thank you!
Thanks for the video.
Thks for the info, The drawing shows there are 2 boot seals inside the master cylinder.
I guess way back seeing how I'm older. I'm 68 & cars had one seal/boot thing inside to pump
the fluid through the lines. so yes if it wouldn't pump or leak down while holding the pedal
bad master cylinder. But today I'm trying to bleed the brakes on a 90 bonneville master cyl. with
a large top that snaps off when filling. I can have success on the bleeding on the LR &RF but the
RR & LF there's not any power to drive fluid and air out. So I suspect 1 boot that pumps is good and 1 boot is bad. and that seeing how two wheels bleed normal but are kitty corner to each other, so,
they must,divide up the 2 pumps in the master cylinder between lines not front & back, but 1 of each diagonal. So with out repairing / actually replacing the long separate rear lines & having to bleed I wouldn't of found out that the master cyl is half bad, but the only thing is then. Why did that line leak
before I replaced the lines, when hitting the brakes?
This described everything I'm experiencing.
Same 😢
Excellent video!
Nice and simple learn something in one minute and 45
Thank-you
Excellent video and succinct Thank you
and thank you!
Wonderful channel,new subscriber
probably the case with my 90 suburban! thing deserves a new one only 32 years old!
nice video
Thanks for the video 🎉🎉 short and to the poing.. subscribed
Very nice, thank you!
What about if there was a problem between the master cylinder and the brake hose, I already changed out both front brake hoses and brake calipers twice. And if you separate the line from the master cylinder to the brake hose it does not drip.
Thank you!!!
Thankyou
and thank you!
Did you leave out the possibility that valves in the ABS control module are failing?
Does it also make a loud noise almost like a power steering noise
I'm have spongy break it goes till floor when I try to break, mechanic stated that break pump has to be replaced
I have brake fluid in my intake manifold could it be this 2010 mustang gt
Hello I have a fletwood bounder 1986 and the brake pedal doesn’t come back when I press it down what could be the problem Thanks in advance
Thank you for the video. This is a very good explanation.
I have one for you as I was hoping you had covered it already but can't find anything.
The Master Cylinder that's losing fluid from either the clutch or brake when no leaks are evident or visible. How to diagnose and rule out all possible scenarios.
Curious is your channel will involve getting the hands dirty or just diagrams and narration? Honest question.
Cheers from Aus
Could be leaking into the hydro booster
The only other thing I'd add is that when you pump the brakes with the engine off, it never develops pressure and just keeps sinking.
Would this cause a creaking noise
Yes on some cars I believe it can also effect the idle
I have brown break fluid begin the break pedal located on a rubber part which compresses once the break pedal is compressed? Any reason why.
Hello i have a 2014 Impala limited. But my problem is that there is nothing leaking anywhere at all. And there was no fluid in the brake reservoir. I have no idea what happened. So i put more break fluid in the reservoir. So now it's full and nothing is leaking. But my brake pedal goes almost all the way down. But it still stops barely lol it will still stop the car. But the pedal goes way too far down still. Could this be a broken master cylinder? or maybe I just need to bleed the breaks? And if it is just them needing to be blead so i get the air out. It still doesn't explain why the reservoir was empty?.... What do you think?
Great video, thanks
I got a issues with my brakes on my 2013 accord, none of the wheels are bleeding, no fluid coming out, while pumping the pedal everything seems normal, pressure builds up and pedal goes down when I release the bleeder valve but no fluid. It’s got me puzzled, I’m thinking it’s something to do with my abs module, I forgot to mention that the brake fluid was like black that’s why I wanted to flush the brake system, could the master brake cyclinder be clogged with dirt or debri. Thanks in advance
Your brake lines that go to the wheel cylinders could b clogged. Unattach the brake lines at the wheel cylinders and have someone pump brakes. If no fluid comes out the hoses, you got clogged lines
Hi, please I have this w204 c300 4matic mercedes 2010, and I parked it for a while ( like 3weeks ) when I finally moved the car just few meters into the drive I noticed the brake pedal flat-out momentarily and came back normal , ( happened just that once , since then I haven't driven it again, ) what could be the cause ???
Thank you for the video. When the tyre refuses to move after braking to a halt, and the rim was very hot, and brake pads smelling, what's the cause? Had to wait for several mins it to cool down before the tyre could move again.
Sounds like brake calipers got fused to the rotor
So I just replaced all my brake lines. Rears bled fine. But I can't get anything out of drivers front, and hardly anything out of passenger front. 2001 Silverado 2wd. I'm stumped no lines kinked or leaking
Mine goes to the floor but if I let go and push again down it stops but stops like I just slammed the breaks
I could not stop the car at all. Absolutely no response.
Scary
Sounds like you had a catastrophic brake failure. Had this happen one time when I opened a 560,000 mile Chevy 5.7L van. Brake line had rusted and I got lucky as all hell as it decided to go completely when I was coming to a stop to park it in front of the house 😅
The same thing happened to me two weeks ago....
Can a master cylinder fail without any noticeable leaks? Not a complete failure, but not allowing proper flow to the calipers, causing a seized/sticking caliper?
@@giveme10feet I'm not certain.
what about another problem, of front calipers dragging caused by fluid pressure not releasing and traveling back to the master cylinder
True which will cause brake pads to wear prematurely
Hey I been having a problem with my passenger side front brakes sticking and I put all new calibers and rotors brakes and flex line and still have this problem u think it could be my master cylinder
@@danielfiscus7658 yes start at caliper and work your way back to master cylinder
@@robbirobbi8497 I have put 3 different new calibers on to make sure they was good every thing has been changed besides that the pedal felt fine tho is the only reason I didn’t change it and I was going to have the shop down the street fix it but they said since I didn’t have them put the calibers and rotors on they wouldn’t work on it but they did say all the work I did was done right I gave up on the car and got a new one but now I’m ready to fix it and sell it but I want to make sure it’s brakes are good so some one that buys it don’t get hurt
@@robbirobbi8497 thank u I’ll buy a new one tomorrow
I've test drove a car earlier that has an UK MOT test advisory on "Brake Pedal Creep", and on the test drive, it seemed like the pedal had to go down a long way before the brakes kicked in, but if you braked hard, almost foot to the floor, the car stopped well. Could these mean a bad master cylinder? Cheers.
have you also tried to bleed the brakes from each caliper?
did you find out what this was? Got the same problem after some rather spirited driving
Hi.
I am sensing some issues with my brake pedal. Let's say I am driving on highway and not using brake pedal for 15 mins. I have noticed that to apply brakes, it needs a little hard foot. It becomes scary at times.
However in city driving like stop n go driving the brake pedal works very good. What could be the issue?
Your brake pads or rotors are getting worn, time for brake job
What about when I hit the brake and it's ok, but at times if I hit the brake the pedal will sink to the floor then I'll pump quick and it's back to normal, and it does this everyday , after like 3 or 5 stops it's when it happens... And it started when 1 day I hit the brake all of a sudden, from then on months later it's when I started noticing it.. if it's not air in the brake lines it's def the master cylinder... PS the fluid is actually dark 🤨 ever sense I changed the master 2 yrs ago
just started having the exact same issue today. prob the cylander. bringing my car in asap
I changed both front calipers and brake hose and my front right side brake & back left side brakes keeps locking up can my master cylinder be the problem it’s like the more I drive the more the breaks locking up ones it cools down everything is back to normal , it’s a 2011 ford edge
❓
My brake pedals pressure is inconsistent. If I apply the brakes there’s a chance the pedal will feel normal, then the next time I apply the brakes it’ll go to the floor. I have to pump the brakes in order for the pedal to have what feels like enough pressure for the car to stop. Is this a bad booster or master cylinder?
I have same issue
There’s a way to check your brake booster while the car is off by stepping on the brakes a couple of times. Look it up.
Sounds like a master cylinder going bad, I have to replace mine, what ended up being wrong with it? Air or debris get in lines?
maybe you might answer this idk but my pedal sunk to the floor and then fixed itself shortly after so im guessing a seal inside was broke but them resealed? maybe idk
I had the same issue. Did you ever figure out what it was?
Does this leak affect the powersteering in any way?
No
I have a 1992 Cheyenne 2500 I bled the brakes thinking that would fix the bad pedal however now the brake light is on and the pedal goes to the floor while the truck is running and the brakes lock up truck won’t move. When I turn the ignition off the pedal slowly comes back up. Any suggestions?
That's strange as hell, I've got a 95 f150 and just got brakes changed and pedal sinks to the floor on stops, pretty sure it's master cylinder, I'm stuck with it for another 4 days until part gets here to fix it, but that's wierd, have changed calipers recently with brakes?
Is that the same that causes my clutch to not engage correctly or just very harshly?
Your problem could involve the CLUTCH(not screaming lol) master cylinder
Check the fluid in there. If it is full and trouble engaging clutch check this
You sound like chrisfx
Mine has all these symptoms but also makes a hissing sound when pressing the brakes. Also bubbling sounds. Could my brake booster also be cooked?
Vaccum booster leak… do a smoke test
I have a brake problem on my 91 Ford f350. Yesterday when i was going to the store, i push down the brake pedal to pit it in drive as soon it was in drive, the truck few out my driveway and it wouldn't even stop. My driveway got a little hill. I pull up to the stop sign and red light and pull into the store it stops. Im afraid that it wont hold when im going down or up a hill or even on or off ramp on a freeway. What could it be.
Better get your brakes checked buddy that seems mighty dangerous.
Hard pedal still atyer i replac3d the check valve
What if it’s sucking air back up into it
Ford 4500 service electronic braking sustem
Can bad brake master cylinder cause braking when not touching the brake pedal? Because I have a problem that my car keeps braking ( lightly ) when not touching the pedal. There is nothing wrong with brakes, and I changed brake fluid. Also, when the brakes are “stuck”, the brake pedal is “hard” and I just lightly press it and it brakes hard. I have to press it all the way, and that “unstucks” the brakes for a while.
Maybe you need to rebuild your calipers, the piston could be contaminated with water or debris causing it to not function correctly or stick.
Brake pedal sunk to the floor, had to pull emergency brake to even slow down and switch to park to come to a complete stop💀scary when u can’t stop ur heavy ass truck and ur approaching a red light
I’m experiencing a hissing sound when I press my brakes.
This could be your brake booster. Check this video out to understand it better. czcams.com/video/993AAOzHspk/video.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
what if fluid is leaking out of the brake master cylinder cap??
The top cap? Screw tighter or get a new cap I would guess? I assume that is what you meant.
@@GMoney-B
I had air lock in the system after replacing the front caliper piston...a few more brake bleeds rectified the problem.
@@atillaozturk7075 Hooray and congrats for you! I am realizing the blessing it is to have functioning brakes without issues. Been having brake gremlins keep popping up every couple months after I bleed them, slowly troubleshooting the problems. Happy wrenching.
@@GMoney-B
sometimes just take the master cylinder lid off, give the brake 40 or so pumps and the remaining air will just escape
@@atillaozturk7075 What the heck. I just tried it and it completely worked! You are such a life saver! I would not have imagined that would have worked! Thank you 3,000.
The fact that this worked makes me think it may actually be the master cylinder. I am thinking that the air is getting localized inside the cylinder, maybe from seaping air from seals on the outside lines to the MC or the connection from reservoir to the MC, not sure of course.
I would think it would only be air around the MC because I don't know how air could get moved from say; the calipers or brake lines especially from the back of the car? Unless air gets compressed and pushed out to the open cap/negative pressure area)even if it's around the back of the car in the calipers or brake lines. Any thoughts?
Either way, you are a life saver. This will save me sooooooo much time this weekend from having to bleed all four calipers for a 4th time in the last 4-5 months till I can figure out a permeant solution or take it into an experienced shop.
Meh, this is kinda useless information, all these symptoms could be other brake system faults unless the fluid is observed leaking out the master itself. That's not really a symptom, more of an obvious problem.
A real sure symptom of a bad master cylinder is variable pedal height; where sometimes it feels like the pedal drops significantly further than you are familiar with. This indicates failing cup seals, They are named this due to their shape and as you increase the fluid pressure it presses the sides of the cup against the bore improving sealing. If they start to intermittently pass fluid, pressure doesn't build and the cup edges don't seal up.
If you suspect a master cylinder, It's probably failing on the rear circuit. If it fails the front brakes circuit, you won't have any doubt it's failed. Best test is to jack up at least one side. Have an assistant slowly press the brake pedal down while you rotate the front wheel. As soon as you can't turn it by hand anymore the assistant stops moving the pedal down and holds it's position while you go to the rear. Spin the rear tire while the assistant continues pressing the pedal further. On some the pedal hits the end of travel and you can still turn the rear but most often it's a judgement call based on how much farther the pedal must go down before the rear is locked because you are only turning it by hand and comparing this to how far the pedal move under normal on-road braking.
I just remembered a Dakota a customer bought without inspection and replaced his own master for low pedal. I thought he failed at bench-bleeding it and either left in air or flipped the seals by doing it dry because it still had a very low pedal but after actually looking at it found the brake line the the rear had rusted out behind the gas tank and the original owner had spliced it with rubber hose and sold it off lol. glhf
Thanks for useful real story. I have to keep in mind there more dishonest people than honest ones.
very useful suggestions and help us better check the problem.
Bad brake line block bad
What's a spongy brake pedal? Slang is limited to one neighbor sir.
Imagine you're driving, and when you step on the brake pedal, it feels kind of soft and mushy, like stepping on a sponge. That's what we mean by a spongy brake pedal.
🤌
is it a question? Why? Why does he talk like this?!!?!
He sounds like a NPC 😂 his video on point tho ⚡