The reason ceiling lights in bedrooms were mounted nearer the window was to be able to undress and not be backlight creating a shapely silhouette for passers by. The advent of blinds and lined curtains for the masses overcame the need for this practice.
By the way - I think this is your best video to date! Really gives an impression of what it’s like to transition from being a jobbing tradesman to actually building a company - good luck!
7:17 they're called 'modesty lights', not for reading but to prevent a shadow of you undressing at night being cast on the thin curtain that people would see walking past
I've heard and read this so many times over the years but it really sounds like something made up to explain the practice and those listening thought it seemed sensible and so believed it to be true. But actually Tom was close with his suggestion that a bed went under the light. Okay so a bed there would be pretty silly, it wasn't beds but dressing tables that went there. You put them in front of the window for the best light. When gas lights came along wall sconces were favoured for smaller rooms but if you had a pendent one that would go over the dressing table - which was in front of the window. Then electric ones were positioned where it had become traditional to put the gas - and still are even though dressing table might not be so common and good electric lights means they don't need to be put under the window for available light any more.
Also in the older type of properties the door usually opens into the room not against the wall so you cant see as easily what is going on in the room upon entry.
The longer content is so much better, but I’m glad it’s not long videos of the same scene like in a garage or under the stairs changing something out. So much stuff is going on in the videos and I don’t get bored and start skipping ahead like I do on other videos. Keep it up mate
Another cracking video, really loving the content, lots of different bits instead of just someone spending 30 minutes changing a fuseboard, lovely stuff!
Light fittings were originally placed near the window so at night when you rgetting changed there was no shadow silhouette on the curtains to improve privacy
Hi Thomas...you mentioned about the light being next to the window due to reading and bed position. I believe the real reason is once the curtains are drawn you cannot see a silhouettes of you changing your clothes. Try it next time place your hand away from the window pendant side you won't have a shadow and then place your hand towards the window side and you'll see a shadow.
Tom the light fittings were place so that there would be no shadow cast on the curtains if someone was getting undressed Enjoying the growth of your business takes me back thirty years when I fist started .stay safe bud
When I was a youngster my dad bought a Dymo label maker, the old type where you squeezed the handle in to form each letter, and I remember using up most of the tape labeling things around the house, including the cat.
"Tardis Tar and Glue Remover" is what you want. Removes sticky stuff like its nothing. Basically as effective as using petrol (shhh). Warning though, it can sort of bleach plastics and such but it's good stuff if you want to put minimal effort in.
To get the glue off you need panel wipe / pre-clean, that's what professional body shops use before painting a panel, after painting and before lacquer basically whenever, doesn't damage the paint and should remove everything. If it's really stubborn you can carefully use a caramel wheel (rubber eraser wheel) in a drill, that's what gets used to remove the 3m tape that holds door trims etc on. Tricks of the trade picked up from my old man who was a panel beater and painter for 40 odd years.
The reason for the lights being so close to the window is so it doesn’t cast a shadow or silhouette of a person, bit of a privacy feature for those who walk around naked 🤣🤣
I love watching the company grow and see it coming together step by step. The light in the ceiling is a modesty light or a ladies light for when they are undressing so it doesn't cast a shadow of the lady onto the window when gentlemen are walking past. The removal of glue - use de icer it's brilliant for getting it off. Don't shit on the lawn Hugo 🤣 I would have also labelled obvious items for the craic 👍
For the glue residue: I know here in the states Turtle wax makes a "label and decal remover" spray that absolutely worked wonders when I unwrapped my car. That being said, it's very harsh. It will damage most plastics it gets on, so pay attention to where it drips and everything. And after using such harsh things to clean the paint (the brake cleaner included) you need to re-wax the area. The clear coat will start peeling within about 6 months if you strip it and don't re-wax it.
To get rid of the sticker residue you need the stuff used by vinyl shops - its called 'Autosmart Tardis' - can be bought on amazon - rinses off with water after use and can also remove tar on paintwork
Tom, I don't know what you have in your area but there's a product called Goo Gone, it is great for removing glue, old decals, tree sap etc. I bet that would take the residue off in a jiffy.
working in the electrical manufacturing world with bugger all electrical knowledge, this really helps me understand why shit goes wrong and why nearly almost all the installers/electricians/plumbers really don't have a clue about how things work. I once spoke to a spark of about 20 years who didn't know how to do a visual test on a double pole isolator that has an led for a shower that was tripping the electrics
EICR is the new PAT industry, hardly anyone does PAT testing properly, I've caught out companies by planting equipment that should have been obvious fails and they all had passed stickers put on them.
What KW is that immersion heater? You'll find over time a 3kw will eat a modern fused spur alive, madly enough the fuse will outlast the spur at around 13A... best to put it on a 20A DP.
You can get Paterson/back boxes made for trunking and it means you can fir end caps into the boxes and trunking for a much neater finish, done retires like this for 15 years on residential concrete flats
Our current flat is wired in in D-Line semicircular trunking. It's surprisingly attractive compared to the regular boxy nonsense, and they have a reasonably nice range of surface-mount backboxes w/ knockouts specifically punched to take the trunking. It's good stuff!
Exeter represent! There's a few guys here that knew of you Tom😊 If you fancy a Thomas Nagy branch down here I quite like tetley tea bags in the ready room🤣 I always got grief for my harness but at least your using one😉 Keep smiling 😊
I know you got it sorted but for the glue residue: I use Goof Off for pretty much everything...it is safe for vehicle paint. There is also 3M Adhesive Remover if you don't mind paying a bit more...both work very well for me.
Isopropyl alcohol. Wd40 some Googone would do it too . If you have to you can always use some cutting compound and an electric mop to get the paint back to the same condition as the rest .
Love the videos. After 40 years working I still don’t understand why invariably the most skilled employee ends up as a manager doing all the odd and sods. It is great having “camera guy” and it makes a huge difference in the video quality but is it vfm?
Tar X, tar and glue remover, WD 40, petrol etc will help remove the decals glue, heat gun for removal at the start also may actually help remove most of it.
@@jerryuk93 sacraficing efficient lighting of a whole room incase someone wanted to place a dressing table next to a window and didn't want curtains is hardly sensible....
As a Detailer, The best product for removing sticker residue is Tar and Glue remover, i specifically use Autobrite directs Just the tonic (can be found on amazon)
Regarding the broken socket, Halford warranty is usually very good. I took a 3/8” ratchet wrench back a few weeks ago that failed and they swapped it without question. It was at least 20 years old and had been part of a set given to be as a gift from my parents many years ago. No receipt required. I’ve also replaced a swivel joint from the same set about 10 years ago. It’s well worth buying the Halford Pro stuff for this reason (and get a trade card too, as it makes their items very competitively priced)
Original pipe (1950) embedded in the wall supplemented with surface mount trunking when it was re-wired is exactly how my flat has been done. Each room got extra sockets so the cable for the RFC comes out of the wall behind one socket, goes through trunking around where new ones have been fitted, and then dives back in the wall and on to the next room. Actually a very neat job.
Hi Thomas, The reason they use to put lights by the windows was so when people were undressing in the room the light didn’t cast their shadows through the certain side.
I've stripped signage off our works vans, usually a fingernail under the corner and careful peeling (keeping the angle as low to the metal as possible) gets them off, glue and all.
I've always used solvent cleaner to remove old vinyl graphics glue. Best to leave it on for a few minutes to soften it before wiping off. Loving the regular videos!
Love my Halfords Advanced kit - only had to replace one thing and they were fine. I'm told they sometimes are funny about receipts, so I keep a little envelope with them though tbh I've had them all long enough now that it wouldn't really bother me to just buy a new one. That said, randomly, my oldest set of sockets are a Wickes Special that I got in about 2003. They became my "abuse it" set - you know, the ones you hammer onto rusty bolt, use in a impact driver because you don't have an impact bit to hand etc. Some how they've all survived - the ratchets are long knackered, but the sockets seem to be indestructible!
@@thomasnagy I always just buy it from the website as click and collect so all receipts are digital. You can give them your email in-store but I've had them type it wrong in the past and you're left without one. Definitely rate the kit as awesome value for money though.
As others have probably said, the ceiling light near the windows was to stop people seeing the silhouette of a person getting undressed. I normally get the reolink stuff from Amazon, also I had a camera go crazy, I had to update the firmware on it, after that it was ok, but before the whole image had a pink tint to it.
Try WD40 - certainly won't harm anything and works for me on many sticky residues. The problem with "brake cleaner" is that it could contain almost anything! Usually aggressive and that is usually why it is being employed.
I've used 'Thompson's uPVC Restorer' applied to a damp cloth in the past, though I'm not 100% sure if it contains any sort of abrasive component, so probably wouldn't risk it on paintwork. Try it out on an inconspicuous area, as they say..
Petrol and a cloth will remove the glue, I worked for a company once and it was going into examinership and we had to remove all the branding in a rush it worked a treat! There is proper adhesive remover made by Evo-Stik it comes in a metal can that's the one my local sign writing company use.
There are decal remover rubber disks available, they go on your battery drill on low speed, no harm to the paint job unless you run them on high speed!
As for getting the glue residue off, I found Axminster blade and bit cleaner works a treat, looking at the ingredients it might just be ethanol, not sure if it is good for paint but I've not had any problems
I always heard the light fitted by the window was a privacy thing, supposed to make it harder to see anyone in the room with the light on the closer it is to the window or something. Its probably bollocks 😅
To remove stickers' adhesive residue I always use what we call "Waschbenzin" in Germany. That definitely does not affect the paint. It seems to translate to "white spirit" or "benzine".
@@keithduthie I would never have thought that there are so many similar but different chemical substances. According to Wikipedia petroleum ether is something else. I do not know whether it makes any difference for the application.
Awesome to see the content back up to full pace. Really insightful and how your company is now running. All the best with the growth Tom! Cheers for putting out the videos.
@@jerryuk93 cool man. I don't care really but if you have a chance in the future to criticise anyone for some reason, it's kind of nice to offer a solution or something else to try too - if you think you know best. It's like.. a life skill. Cheers, have a good one. 👍😀
Sticky Lable Remover is great for removing sticky lable residue. Get it in a can from your favourite industrical supplier/RS/Screwfix etc. Safer than solvents etc.
Tom Point of contention 3kw immersions make fuses heat up in use Most people recommend using a 20A DP switch or a 15A plug and switched socket for immersions
Funny that, I had an elderly lady on a retirements plot, all the houses were fused at 13A FCU going to a 20A MCB/B in their flats, I tested the load it was 14A max, and it burned out the cheap shitty FCU that was installed. I replaced with a MK one, it has been fine ever since. But they push this stuff to it's limits, which is not the right way. I was going to install just a 20A Isolator in it's place, as it is directly connected by radial to a 20A MCB in the CU, but didn't want to make her house different to the others. Crazy, all the estate is the same. What would you do guys? 🙄
@@muzikman2008 i'm assuming that was the good old MK stuff? I've never seen the new MK stuff last more than a few years on an immersion supply. Me? if its a new/ish board take the breaker down to a 16A MCB/B remove the FCU and swap in a 20A DP. Ancient board, swap to a 15A Fuse switch socket.
@@cargunnutuk Yeah..thats a good shout, It was new MK stuff, I don,t fit anything else now, unless they specify for asthetics..blah de blah. but it has been ok. The company that fitted them were "over zelous" let's say on FCU's everything has them lol...never seen anything like it. They would have put one on the Toaster if they could 😉 yeah...washing machine, dishwasher, fridge etc... but the emersion??? nah...too close to the limit. repaired about 6 months ago, she has been fine, last time i went to do a light fitting change, I checked it out of curiosity...was fine. I know a 13A BS1362 will carry 1.66 times the rated value, so for a 13A fuse this will be 21.6A... the design fault is in the FCU. although they "should be compliant" I think they failed in this design, or used cheap shitty FCU's. Not been back since, so it is holding in there.
Love this Channel! It has inspired me to finally take the plunge into changing careers into the electrical industry. Love everything you are doing. Really enjoy watching your content.
@@thomasnagy No thank you! Honestly really has inspired me. Even to the point of making CZcams videos to document my transition into the electrical world!!
Love what you are doing. The set up back at the unit is nice “somewhere who cares for…” having a great work place environment is critical. I would just say you really cannot say “I trust them but…..” you either do or you don’t trust is binary. So if you want to aspire to a workplace that cares it’s more than coffee and biscuits and a hammock. Trust your team… suggest you grab a copy of Happy hour is 9 to 5. Or watch Turn the Ship around.
Sticky Stuff Remover… the stuff eats through any adhesive! Splash some on a wad of blue roll, leave it splatted on there for 5-10 minutes and wipe it off… stuff can be used on skin and hair, unlikely to cause any issue with the paintwork.
You can get tar and glue remover that has the same consistency as polish, leave it to sit on the glue and it’ll dissolve it. Way easier than the usual liquid stuff.
I had a qualified sparky chasing out a wall diagonally to put a new cooker cable in. I queried it, and he bluntly told me it was on an RCD so was fine, and ''don't tell me how to do my job''
I’ve always used a hot air gun on low heat, get the area hot but not to hot to touch, most of the sticky comes off with the vinyl. Wipe off with petrol, never failed me.
Loving the content Tom. My only gripe with your decal branding is it's clean but doesn't say or even indicate what kind of business you even are. Or are you going for the Adele look, the public should just know? Ha ha
@ Thomas Nagy, Citrus-based cleaner will take that residue off, it's the same thing people use for removing stickers from fridges before they sell them.
Use Cut and polish paste to get the stickers off. just any old cut polish paste will do just fine. and make sure you use plenty of rags so you aren't smearing the same crap back on.
The reason ceiling lights in bedrooms were mounted nearer the window was to be able to undress and not be backlight creating a shapely silhouette for passers by. The advent of blinds and lined curtains for the masses overcame the need for this practice.
By the way - I think this is your best video to date! Really gives an impression of what it’s like to transition from being a jobbing tradesman to actually building a company - good luck!
Cheers mate, really appreciate it :) I'm glad that people are liking the longer content :)
@@thomasnagy no one mentioned the longer content lol you really are a prize prick
@@diesel508 Says you with 2 Subs and no videos, Get a life.
@@photosbycharles9880 😂😂😂
This is fast becoming my favourite background program to watch while I work, thank you 'Big Clive' for getting me hooked on Thomas
7:17 they're called 'modesty lights', not for reading but to prevent a shadow of you undressing at night being cast on the thin curtain that people would see walking past
I was just about to write that.. he should come up North, all older houses are like this
We were still taught to do that when I did my apprenticeship way back in the late 70's (1977-81).
I still do it if ceilings are low.
I've heard and read this so many times over the years but it really sounds like something made up to explain the practice and those listening thought it seemed sensible and so believed it to be true.
But actually Tom was close with his suggestion that a bed went under the light.
Okay so a bed there would be pretty silly, it wasn't beds but dressing tables that went there. You put them in front of the window for the best light. When gas lights came along wall sconces were favoured for smaller rooms but if you had a pendent one that would go over the dressing table - which was in front of the window. Then electric ones were positioned where it had become traditional to put the gas - and still are even though dressing table might not be so common and good electric lights means they don't need to be put under the window for available light any more.
Also in the older type of properties the door usually opens into the room not against the wall so you cant see as easily what is going on in the room upon entry.
The longer content is so much better, but I’m glad it’s not long videos of the same scene like in a garage or under the stairs changing something out.
So much stuff is going on in the videos and I don’t get bored and start skipping ahead like I do on other videos.
Keep it up mate
Another cracking video, really loving the content, lots of different bits instead of just someone spending 30 minutes changing a fuseboard, lovely stuff!
Cheers pal, really appreciate it :D
Wish I could change a fuse board in 30mins.
@@BakedTuber Lol 45 mins in a 2 up 2 down 🤣👍
@@muzikman2008 With your testing as well? Must be a quality job.
Light fittings were originally placed near the window so at night when you rgetting changed there was no shadow silhouette on the curtains to improve privacy
True.
I don’t think I have ever laughed that hard when I saw the label “ chair “on a chair that guy is a legend 😂😂👍🏻
The reason lights were put in by the windows is so that you didn't cast a shadow on them when you were getting changed
Hi Thomas...you mentioned about the light being next to the window due to reading and bed position. I believe the real reason is once the curtains are drawn you cannot see a silhouettes of you changing your clothes. Try it next time place your hand away from the window pendant side you won't have a shadow and then place your hand towards the window side and you'll see a shadow.
Tom the light fittings were place so that there would be no shadow cast on the curtains if someone was getting undressed
Enjoying the growth of your business takes me back thirty years when I fist started .stay safe bud
So interesting to se how a growing company like yours works. Love the videos Thomas. Onwards and upwards my friend 👍
Thanks pal!
Joe's lable printing prank on obvious objects is genius and something I'd do haha
When I was a youngster my dad bought a Dymo label maker, the old type where you squeezed the handle in to form each letter, and I remember using up most of the tape labeling things around the house, including the cat.
use isopropyl alcohol for removing glue residue, will be safe on paint. DON'T try anything harsh like acetone, will probably melt the paint/lacquer.
wd40
"Tardis Tar and Glue Remover" is what you want. Removes sticky stuff like its nothing. Basically as effective as using petrol (shhh).
Warning though, it can sort of bleach plastics and such but it's good stuff if you want to put minimal effort in.
Or you can get preptone? From autosmart.
Or maybe try some acetone
Exactly this, I use litres of Tardis every month.
To get the glue off you need panel wipe / pre-clean, that's what professional body shops use before painting a panel, after painting and before lacquer basically whenever, doesn't damage the paint and should remove everything. If it's really stubborn you can carefully use a caramel wheel (rubber eraser wheel) in a drill, that's what gets used to remove the 3m tape that holds door trims etc on. Tricks of the trade picked up from my old man who was a panel beater and painter for 40 odd years.
DEFINITELY panel wipe yes
The reason for the lights being so close to the window is so it doesn’t cast a shadow or silhouette of a person, bit of a privacy feature for those who walk around naked 🤣🤣
yep, that and people always had dressing tables under the window too. :)
I love watching the company grow and see it coming together step by step.
The light in the ceiling is a modesty light or a ladies light for when they are undressing so it doesn't cast a shadow of the lady onto the window when gentlemen are walking past.
The removal of glue - use de icer it's brilliant for getting it off.
Don't shit on the lawn Hugo 🤣
I would have also labelled obvious items for the craic 👍
Loving the more frequent content! Really missed the vibes in the last months
For the glue residue: I know here in the states Turtle wax makes a "label and decal remover" spray that absolutely worked wonders when I unwrapped my car.
That being said, it's very harsh. It will damage most plastics it gets on, so pay attention to where it drips and everything.
And after using such harsh things to clean the paint (the brake cleaner included) you need to re-wax the area. The clear coat will start peeling within about 6 months if you strip it and don't re-wax it.
To get rid of the sticker residue you need the stuff used by vinyl shops - its called 'Autosmart Tardis' - can be bought on amazon - rinses off with water after use and can also remove tar on paintwork
Loving the length of the recent vids!
Appreciate it partner!
"Don't shit on the neighbours lawn Hugo..." 😂👍
not as daft as "FENTON"...
Tom, I don't know what you have in your area but there's a product called Goo Gone, it is great for removing glue, old decals, tree sap etc. I bet that would take the residue off in a jiffy.
working in the electrical manufacturing world with bugger all electrical knowledge, this really helps me understand why shit goes wrong and why nearly almost all the installers/electricians/plumbers really don't have a clue about how things work. I once spoke to a spark of about 20 years who didn't know how to do a visual test on a double pole isolator that has an led for a shower that was tripping the electrics
EICR is the new PAT industry, hardly anyone does PAT testing properly, I've caught out companies by planting equipment that should have been obvious fails and they all had passed stickers put on them.
Ahhhhh so you’re one of them
@@i_know_youre_right_but One of them what?
I think the reason for having the light near to the window was that it stopped silhouettes appearing on the curtains. Something like that anyway :)
I was told this too
What KW is that immersion heater? You'll find over time a 3kw will eat a modern fused spur alive, madly enough the fuse will outlast the spur at around 13A... best to put it on a 20A DP.
IPA/rubbing alcohol is safe for car body panels and should breakdown the sticky residue
You can get Paterson/back boxes made for trunking and it means you can fir end caps into the boxes and trunking for a much neater finish, done retires like this for 15 years on residential concrete flats
Our current flat is wired in in D-Line semicircular trunking. It's surprisingly attractive compared to the regular boxy nonsense, and they have a reasonably nice range of surface-mount backboxes w/ knockouts specifically punched to take the trunking. It's good stuff!
Use tar and glue remover to remove the left over sticker residue from the old signage on the sides of the vans.
Tardis tar and glue remover for the left over residue of the logos
Exeter represent!
There's a few guys here that knew of you Tom😊
If you fancy a Thomas Nagy branch down here I quite like tetley tea bags in the ready room🤣
I always got grief for my harness but at least your using one😉
Keep smiling 😊
I know you got it sorted but for the glue residue: I use Goof Off for pretty much everything...it is safe for vehicle paint.
There is also 3M Adhesive Remover if you don't mind paying a bit more...both work very well for me.
Loving all the videos recently, keep up the good work Tom 👍
Appreciate it mate!
Isopropyl alcohol. Wd40 some Googone would do it too . If you have to you can always use some cutting compound and an electric mop to get the paint back to the same condition as the rest .
Really enjoying these videos, the production, quality and varied content is really professional.
Great to see your business expanding.
Cheers pal, appreciate it :)
Love the videos.
After 40 years working I still don’t understand why invariably the most skilled employee ends up as a manager doing all the odd and sods.
It is great having “camera guy” and it makes a huge difference in the video quality but is it vfm?
Google the Peter Principle... promoted to incompetence... 😏
Indeed. I am a prime example of the Peter Principle.
That’s a proper knees up with tea and biscuits video. Love the work. Keep it up.
Thomas your videos are like chocolate, rather addictive. You are knocking Skill Builder off my top favourite 🤩
Tar X, tar and glue remover, WD 40, petrol etc will help remove the decals glue, heat gun for removal at the start also may actually help remove most of it.
Lights above the windows is an old fashioned thing that the idea would be there isn't a shadow cast from a person in the room for privacy
Dressing table under the window, and light above, at night light wouldn’t cast shadow or silhouette.
@@jerryuk93 sacraficing efficient lighting of a whole room incase someone wanted to place a dressing table next to a window and didn't want curtains is hardly sensible....
@@jerryuk93 a small lit mirror would be far more efficient and effective then running a larger power main light surely?
As a Detailer, The best product for removing sticker residue is Tar and Glue remover, i specifically use Autobrite directs Just the tonic (can be found on amazon)
I agree or auto smart tardis (believe that’s the correct name) but that’s more of a industrial product
@@adamdavis2788 yes mate youre correct, even Autosmart can still be brought by anyone, it mainly personal preference
Regarding the broken socket, Halford warranty is usually very good. I took a 3/8” ratchet wrench back a few weeks ago that failed and they swapped it without question. It was at least 20 years old and had been part of a set given to be as a gift from my parents many years ago. No receipt required. I’ve also replaced a swivel joint from the same set about 10 years ago. It’s well worth buying the Halford Pro stuff for this reason (and get a trade card too, as it makes their items very competitively priced)
Original pipe (1950) embedded in the wall supplemented with surface mount trunking when it was re-wired is exactly how my flat has been done. Each room got extra sockets so the cable for the RFC comes out of the wall behind one socket, goes through trunking around where new ones have been fitted, and then dives back in the wall and on to the next room. Actually a very neat job.
Hi Thomas,
The reason they use to put lights by the windows was so when people were undressing in the room the light didn’t cast their shadows through the certain side.
I'm surprised Tom didn't know that.
Thomas Nagy is a legend
Glue and tar remover. Halfords do the auto glum one mate. Use the glue remover then rinse off and tcut then full wash before putting new decals on. 👍🏻
I've stripped signage off our works vans, usually a fingernail under the corner and careful peeling (keeping the angle as low to the metal as possible) gets them off, glue and all.
I love how you talk about your Kangoo, its like its a living entity. Always referring to it like "The little Kangoo".
@14:58; try goo gone (I dont know how it reacts with automotive paint) but it seems to be super gentle but effective at removing gooey things
I love the wit
This man is serious
I know nothing of electrics but I watch for the hell of it
Look up a product called Goo Gone, that will remove the sticky residue from the old sign lettering
Innotec seal and bond remover works wonders on glue residue
I've always used solvent cleaner to remove old vinyl graphics glue. Best to leave it on for a few minutes to soften it before wiping off.
Loving the regular videos!
Good for you tom cleaning up after you as I have seen some dirty sparks in past
And a sling in the office! There is more to Thomas than meets the eye.
Just waiting for the Thomas Nagy OF page lol
Love my Halfords Advanced kit - only had to replace one thing and they were fine. I'm told they sometimes are funny about receipts, so I keep a little envelope with them though tbh I've had them all long enough now that it wouldn't really bother me to just buy a new one.
That said, randomly, my oldest set of sockets are a Wickes Special that I got in about 2003. They became my "abuse it" set - you know, the ones you hammer onto rusty bolt, use in a impact driver because you don't have an impact bit to hand etc. Some how they've all survived - the ratchets are long knackered, but the sockets seem to be indestructible!
I was really surprised when my bit broke! I’ll keep you posted if they do replace it for me :)
Halfords Are the best tool kits as they replace all tools that have issues
@@thomasnagy I always just buy it from the website as click and collect so all receipts are digital. You can give them your email in-store but I've had them type it wrong in the past and you're left without one. Definitely rate the kit as awesome value for money though.
@7:20 the reason why lights are in front of the window is so when the light is on it doesn't cast a shadow and prevent people looking into the room.
The best glue residue remover is called Goo Gone. It's mostly limonene with some special sauce and it obliterates glue. Very safe stuff too.
As others have probably said, the ceiling light near the windows was to stop people seeing the silhouette of a person getting undressed.
I normally get the reolink stuff from Amazon, also I had a camera go crazy, I had to update the firmware on it, after that it was ok, but before the whole image had a pink tint to it.
The light above the window was to replicate the natural light source... everyone had a dressing table mirror in that location
@@user-sg1ku5hu5d that's different to what I was always taught, but who knows, it could have been for that reason.
14:55 just use simple cheap cooking oil. It takes of all types of glue, very handy.
Try WD40 - certainly won't harm anything and works for me on many sticky residues. The problem with "brake cleaner" is that it could contain almost anything! Usually aggressive and that is usually why it is being employed.
WD-40 will definitely harm _some_ things. Melts natural rubber, annoys cats, etc..
Tesco own brand polish is a miracle worker when I took my sticker residue off.
@@RFC-3514 properly loled at cat bit
high percent IPA (like 90%+ stuff) is also pretty good for mild sticky residue
I've used 'Thompson's uPVC Restorer' applied to a damp cloth in the past, though I'm not 100% sure if it contains any sort of abrasive component, so probably wouldn't risk it on paintwork. Try it out on an inconspicuous area, as they say..
Petrol and a cloth will remove the glue, I worked for a company once and it was going into examinership and we had to remove all the branding in a rush it worked a treat! There is proper adhesive remover made by Evo-Stik it comes in a metal can that's the one my local sign writing company use.
Tetrosyl Pre-Wipe Degreaser is good. Won't damage the paint as it's used in body shops.
You ask the best question of the viewers !!
There are decal remover rubber disks available, they go on your battery drill on low speed, no harm to the paint job unless you run them on high speed!
As for getting the glue residue off, I found Axminster blade and bit cleaner works a treat, looking at the ingredients it might just be ethanol, not sure if it is good for paint but I've not had any problems
I always heard the light fitted by the window was a privacy thing, supposed to make it harder to see anyone in the room with the light on the closer it is to the window or something. Its probably bollocks 😅
Tardis from auto smart- it’s a tar and glue remover. It’s what I use when replacing the battenburg, chevrons and decals on ambulances.
To remove stickers' adhesive residue I always use what we call "Waschbenzin" in Germany. That definitely does not affect the paint. It seems to translate to "white spirit" or "benzine".
Hopefully not benzene, given that it's apparently quite carcinogenic.
@@keithduthie No, that would translate to "Benzol" in German and is not it, fortunately.
"Washing spirit" might be another name you could look for.
@@tobiasramforth8474 Petroleum ether, apparently.
@@keithduthie I would never have thought that there are so many similar but different chemical substances. According to Wikipedia petroleum ether is something else. I do not know whether it makes any difference for the application.
Awesome to see the content back up to full pace. Really insightful and how your company is now running. All the best with the growth Tom! Cheers for putting out the videos.
Appreciate it pal :)
WD 40 will remove the old glue and then de-grease with break cleaner and t cut panel read for use.
Brake cleaner ,🙄
@@jerryuk93 so what's the answer? Give a man shit without a shovel makes you culpable. Of course you know best but have failed to enucleate. 🙄
@@jerryuk93 cool man. I don't care really but if you have a chance in the future to criticise anyone for some reason, it's kind of nice to offer a solution or something else to try too - if you think you know best. It's like.. a life skill. Cheers, have a good one. 👍😀
Sticky Lable Remover is great for removing sticky lable residue. Get it in a can from your favourite industrical supplier/RS/Screwfix etc.
Safer than solvents etc.
Tom
Point of contention
3kw immersions make fuses heat up in use
Most people recommend using a 20A DP switch or a 15A plug and switched socket for immersions
Funny that, I had an elderly lady on a retirements plot, all the houses were fused at 13A FCU going to a 20A MCB/B in their flats, I tested the load it was 14A max, and it burned out the cheap shitty FCU that was installed. I replaced with a MK one, it has been fine ever since. But they push this stuff to it's limits, which is not the right way. I was going to install just a 20A Isolator in it's place, as it is directly connected by radial to a 20A MCB in the CU, but didn't want to make her house different to the others. Crazy, all the estate is the same. What would you do guys? 🙄
@@muzikman2008 i'm assuming that was the good old MK stuff? I've never seen the new MK stuff last more than a few years on an immersion supply.
Me? if its a new/ish board take the breaker down to a 16A MCB/B remove the FCU and swap in a 20A DP.
Ancient board, swap to a 15A Fuse switch socket.
@@cargunnutuk Yeah..thats a good shout, It was new MK stuff, I don,t fit anything else now, unless they specify for asthetics..blah de blah. but it has been ok. The company that fitted them were "over zelous" let's say on FCU's everything has them lol...never seen anything like it. They would have put one on the Toaster if they could 😉 yeah...washing machine, dishwasher, fridge etc... but the emersion??? nah...too close to the limit. repaired about 6 months ago, she has been fine, last time i went to do a light fitting change, I checked it out of curiosity...was fine. I know a 13A BS1362 will carry 1.66 times the rated value, so for a 13A fuse this will be 21.6A... the design fault is in the FCU. although they "should be compliant" I think they failed in this design, or used cheap shitty FCU's. Not been back since, so it is holding in there.
He didn't put an Amp clamp meter on the feed to the immersion, a rookie mistake, it's the only way to check it's working. Some electrician.
You've done really well with making this video, well, with the camera man / video editor of course. Fair play, and nice lift truck 👍
Loving your success dude. Well deserved. I think lights over windows was something to do with privacy and casting shadows when changing or some such.
Love this Channel! It has inspired me to finally take the plunge into changing careers into the electrical industry. Love everything you are doing. Really enjoy watching your content.
Cheers mate, really appreciate it :)
@@thomasnagy No thank you! Honestly really has inspired me. Even to the point of making CZcams videos to document my transition into the electrical world!!
The new decals do look very nice and professional!
the reason they put the light close to window is that it didn’t cast a shadow wen undressing ie nobody outside could see your silhouette
Love what you are doing. The set up back at the unit is nice “somewhere who cares for…” having a great work place environment is critical. I would just say you really cannot say “I trust them but…..” you either do or you don’t trust is binary. So if you want to aspire to a workplace that cares it’s more than coffee and biscuits and a hammock. Trust your team… suggest you grab a copy of Happy hour is 9 to 5. Or watch Turn the Ship around.
You can get skirting with a hidden channel to hide cables
Sticky Stuff Remover… the stuff eats through any adhesive!
Splash some on a wad of blue roll, leave it splatted on there for 5-10 minutes and wipe it off… stuff can be used on skin and hair, unlikely to cause any issue with the paintwork.
For vinal graphic goop: Panel Wipe, IPA, WD40 or generic sticky suff remover.
You can get tar and glue remover that has the same consistency as polish, leave it to sit on the glue and it’ll dissolve it. Way easier than the usual liquid stuff.
I had a qualified sparky chasing out a wall diagonally to put a new cooker cable in. I queried it, and he bluntly told me it was on an RCD so was fine, and ''don't tell me how to do my job''
Absolutely bloody fantastic video
I bloody appreciate mate !
I’ve always used a hot air gun on low heat, get the area hot but not to hot to touch, most of the sticky comes off with the vinyl. Wipe off with petrol, never failed me.
To get rid of the glue petrol works I have used it before works a treat
Loving the content Tom. My only gripe with your decal branding is it's clean but doesn't say or even indicate what kind of business you even are. Or are you going for the Adele look, the public should just know? Ha ha
Love the new longer videos Tom, keep them coming, could watch hour long vids no problem!!👏👏
Appreciate it, more is coming soon ;)
@ Thomas Nagy,
Citrus-based cleaner will take that residue off, it's the same thing people use for removing stickers from fridges before they sell them.
In 5 years time I can see you sitting in the Bahamas lining the good life 👍👍🍺🍺🍺
Oh, I doubt it maybe Belmarsh.
Amazing video as always, KEEP IT UP!!!!
Use a toffee wheel on the residue , goes in your drill chuck ! Used to use them in the body shop as an apprentice all the time !
Love this channel !!
Autoglym tar remover .. bloody great at removing old decals.. not the quickest, but leaves it spotless after
Use Cut and polish paste to get the stickers off. just any old cut polish paste will do just fine. and make sure you use plenty of rags so you aren't smearing the same crap back on.
Use sticky stuff remover for the glue residue