Finally Testing Out the 5 Color Buddy Print That's Over 14" Tall!
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- čas přidán 20. 01. 2024
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You are so incredibly patient. I would have returned this printer by now, if not thrown it out the window.
I was about to say the exact same thing! She's go the patience of a saint! :-)
This was also literally going to be my comment!
I'm shocked that people have paid for this experience. Prusa has lost a lot of respect I had for them.
Thanks everyone! I really thought that the buddy print would turn out. Not only did it work on my single toolhead but it's a preset that's included with THIS printer!
The only reasons I'm still trying is because I see others with good prints. And my boring prints work ok. I feel like I'm just missing something. Thank you!
@@tada3dprintingI need to try something more complicated with mine. With PLA, it prints like a dream and is easily the best quality printer I have right now (with PLA at the 0.4mm nozzle). It has issues with PETG and some other filaments, but PLA is great. BUT, I don't do a lot of stuff like this...
So I have an idea of what's happening with the red filament. When a toolhead is finished with its layer and goes back to purge tower it does a ramming maneuver. This is to remove the fully melted filament before parking. The setting is in filament advanced, and the multitool ramming flow is the one that can cause problems. The default for PLA is 40 mm^3/s. For some filaments this is way too fast. On occassion you end up stripping the filament which is why you could push it later and get it to start working again. Most of the time this shows in problems with the purge tower as filament is extruding so cold it doesn't stick.
I lowered the filament>advanced>multitool ramming flow to 20 mm^3/s as it's the very top end the nozzle should be able to handle. It should be even lower for silk filaments, and Prusa does even turn it off for TPU.
Additional thought. At this point you're probably going to need to clean your drive gear teeth.
This makes sense, @tada, give this a try…. If you are willing….
Ok I'll definitely check this. Thanks so much!
I started watching your videos last summer when your first started sharing your XL journey and I wanted to see what to expect. Since I've watched all your videos, and have had my own 5-tool XL for a couple months, I feel certain that your experiences are not normal, and are likely a combination of your original assembly steps and your slicer settings. My printer is running near flawlessly, and it bothers me that since you have one of the most prominent XL related channels that you're portraying the printer to the public as worse than it really is. I read the comments in your videos where viewers think this printer is rubbish - but it's actually a really good printer. I will say that the complex 5-tool XL is more sensitive to bad assembly than other printers, so don't feel too bad about it, but you do need to take a step back and revisit your assembly steps and maintenance procedures and make sure things are perfect. To help you, I'll lay out some items here for you to address. Buckle-in, this is a long one...
First, while I love me some Prusament, I doubt it will be a magic bullet that solves your printing woes. While it is nice to have some to eliminate that as a variable, for the most part any decent name-brand PLA should do sufficiently well. And I wouldn't worry about drying PLA, you go through it pretty fast in your shop, doubt you have any with moisture issues unless you're buying absolute junk PLA. By the way, Prusa's local US distributor, PrintedSolid, will often have Prusament in stock, but you usually end up paying a couple bucks more per roll versus Prusa direct. I've experienced the same stock issues recently, and it seems like it's either extremely high demand or limited production quantities, I see colors going in/out of stock on a constant basis.
Second, for the slicer settings - you need to change "Print Settings > Multiple Extruders > Wipe tower extruder" from the default of 0 (which represents the currently printing tool) to a specific extruder (whichever one is used the most, i.e. your tan color for Buddy). This will slow down the print slightly, but by having a single filament for your entire wipe tower, you end up with a significantly more stable tower. Do not set it to a rarely used extruder/color, as even though that will still work, you'll have a ton of extra color changes. And yes, you should be using a wipe tower, going towerless is a gamble and only works with super dry filaments (but not annealed PLA, which can happen if you dry incorrectly). Lightning infill is a gamble on larger prints (curling & crashes), you're often better off with adaptive cubic at 5-10%. In general, you need to become more proficient with Prusaslicer - you use the defaults a lot, and while it would be nice if the defaults were the best, they are not. Certain values, like the wipe tower extruder #, should be set on nearly every multi-tool print. There's a ton more to worry about, not just those two items, but I can't cover them all here. Unfortunately, we're still in the early infant years of 3D printing, one day we'll have single button perfect prints, but for now you'll have to learn how to slice like a pro.
Third - the new idler screw tension you adjusted that extruder to is way too tight. When properly tightened, you can barely see the first thread peeking through the other side. Also, Prusa's typically work best with the idler tension being as loose as possible without filament slipping. From freeze-framing your video at 15:47, it looks to me these were already too tight before you adjusted them tighter. The screw bottoms should be about flush, not sticking out several millimeters. I know Prusa told you to tighten them, they told you wrong. Being too tight is more likely to cause jamming behavior. Since this occurred on more than one extruder, double-check them all. Since you've had this exact same issue in other videos, basically from the beginning, I'd hazard a guess that Prusa shipped them too tight. Also, please stop turning the screw on the cover, that's a flip-up cover, you release it by unhooking the hidden latch, not turning the screw. You've done this wrong in a couple videos now. It's not obvious where you lift to release the latch, so take some time and fiddle around with it until you find it. You may have over-tightened that screw when you were done, so make sure it's not too tight.
Fourth - I've never seen you check belt tension, and some of that homing behavior looks like a belt tension issue. Prusa has a belt tensioning web page that runs on your phone and uses the microphone to help you tune the tension. While it's not the greatest tool, I found that my belts were too tight from the factory, and I had to loosen them a lot, so it's an important step. Aim for about 78Hz. I actually have mine running well, closer to 74Hz, and stock was about 88Hz. If you go too low, you get belt slippage, and 74Hz is pretty extreme but seems to be working for now. Also, during initial homing when the carriage hits the right side of the printer, it does this to force open the lock bars in case you had them closed, seems like that didn't work right on your printer. Again, might be due to belt tension. The reason the tools were being dropped a couple times is because the printer lost steps, and traveled too far to the right and unlocked the bars, dropping the tool, and loosing steps is a symptom of too tight belts (well, either that or too loose, either way, not tensioned correctly) or crashing (lightning infill...). Don't assume Prusa shipped the belts correctly tensioned, and they seem to be changing their guidance to lower and lower values.
Fifth - I've never seen you apply lubrication - I was guilty of this too, the Prusa assembly docs didn't advise me there. You need to lubricate both the z-axis lead screws and the 3 locating nub-screws on each tool. If you go to Prusa's printable parts, there are a couple tools to print for maintenance for lubricating both items. Read the XL documentation on maintenance and follow all of it.
Sixth - going back to the very beginning (assembly), you need to revisit all your screws, make sure they are well tightened. In some of your videos, you finger tightened a few screws (as commenters pointed out), and you've never shown a video where you corrected this mistake, and since you're having so many issues it seems plausible you have improperly tightened screws. Step through the assembly guide again and any screws/posts you were responsible for, re-tighten them. Everything should be super tight, almost to the point you think you're going to break something. The printer can handle it - I'm a pretty strong big dude and I gave it the full beans and the printer loved it. Also check for tool alignment with each other when parked - use a long ruler across the tops/fronts and make sure they are perfectly aligned. These issues are the big downside to a printer that ships requiring assembly, especially when the XL is so sensitive.
Word of caution, don't tighten the 2 screws on top of each z-axis nut, they are supposed to be a little loose, and you get horrible vertical artifacts if you tighten them - I learned this the hard way. Also make sure those silicone nozzle leak-stoppers are properly adjusted - if they are too tight they cause the entire tool to sit cockeyed when parked, and then it doesn't pick accurately and you can experience color misalignment.
Seventh - double-check your entire filament path. Make sure all your PTFE tubes are properly inserted and not kinked in any way. Combined with an improperly tensioned extruder gear, this could explain why the red didn't extrude mid-print. You probably need to pull out the tubes and check the ends - be diligent and examine every last inch. Even a little kink/dent can be an issue.
Eight - After you address all of the above, and particularly #'s 3-6, you need to redo the nozzle alignment calibration. From looking at Buddy's red collar, the color alignment seems slightly off. There's a test print you can use on the thumb drive to help validate color/nozzle alignment, which is a handy validation that there's an issue. What I'm thinking happened here is that a lack of screw tightening and possibly improperly adjusted nozzle stops causes your previous alignments to be less than perfect. I think the color misalignment is also contributing to your wipe tower issues. Because the nozzles are slightly misaligned, and because you have the wipe tower extruder set to 0, it keeps changing which extruder is used for the wipe tower body on each layer, and that's where you see the failures at the bottom of the tower where it switches between black and tan on every layer - bad alignment causes poor layer adhesion. Note, this misalignment might also be a result of you switching between 0.6 and 0.4 nozzles, and back again - you should repeat the nozzle calibration any time you touch the nozzle. Failure to do this could also explain your lackluster results with 0.4 nozzles - I have amazing results with my 0.4 nozzles, much better than the stock 0.6.
I know this was a painfully long post, but I truly hope you read it all and follow the guidance. The printer is so much better than what you're experiencing. I think if you did all steps, #2-8, that would even make for a nice video, similar to your other troubleshooting videos. It's still possible that there's another issue I didn't think to cover, but I covered so much above there's a good chance the solution(s) are at hand. Good luck.
Totally second everything you are saying. I have my XL 5T for a few weeks now and it has been running none stop 24/7 without a single glitch. Every print is flawless, no stringing and no waste (🙂). The XL truly is an amazing machine. I feel sorry that she has so many issues and I hope, and expect, that your suggestions will help but from my experience as well it is incorrect to give the XL such a bad rap.
lots of good information. I'm trying to find guidance on cleaning the nextruder. I had my number one get filament coating the drive wheel and took it apart, but obviously I did not get it back together correctly, as it keeps jamming.
@@woodwaker1 Never heard of that coating issue before, sounds pretty bad. Junk filament? If you disassembled the full extruder, things to be aware of: The planetary gears need to be directly opposite of each other around the sun gear. If they're off by even 1 tooth, issues. In the filament path is a small guide part with a hole in it, that the filament runs through right next to the big gear. I've found it to be fragile and subject to damage. Print a new one and swap it in. Make sure your idler tension screws are about the same as the other extruders, bottom of screw about flush, maybe poking out 1 thread at most. And there's a setting in the menu (at least on the MK4, probably on XL too) to auto-adjust the extruder gears (Calibration & Tests > Gears Calibration) that may need to be run. In general, if you had filament gumming up the works, there could definitely be some damage on the inside, so examine everything. Good luck.
@@PaulStevensonPinball Thanks. I can't find anything on how to work - adjust the nextruder. I was hoping they would have a video or some information on it.
If would be nice if you can post vids of good prints because I am very close to canceling my pre-order due to all the failed vids I see. If there are so many good prints, why are we not seeing them?? I have seen less than 5 videos of successful prints that uses more than half the height of the print volume.
I remember when the Bambu Lab x1C first came out and everyone said it’s just a printer to print PLA and toys and prusa XL will be the “prosumer” grade printer. So far most users are facing the same issues with Prusa XL. Anything apart from PLA is either a stringing galore or just having problems while printing large parts. Prusa should have released the printer once they had throughly tested it as a polished product.
I'm having trouble even WITH pla. But I just feel like I'm missing something. Thank you!
The prosumer argument comes from mixing materials, less waste(some materials are expensive af) and possibly later on mixing nozzle sizes.
Thank you
for your XL Content!
Thanks for watching!
Your rough experiences with the PRUSA XL is very similar to every experience I had had with every printer I've ever bought over the last 3 years, until I bout a Bambu X1C. All these other printers were great at times, but often would do weird stuff ruining the prints, or other issues. Constant frustrations when I just wanted to print.
If the Prusa XL was even 80% as reliable as my Bambu I would consider getting one since it is so much faster and less wasteful for multicolor prints, but at this point in time there is no way I could consider it, especially for the money. I have wasted so much of my life chasing after solutions to fix printers that are not reliable. I don't want to go through that ever again.
I've had some failures and problems with the X1C, but not many, they were all easy to figure out and get it working agian, and almost every time it was because I was trying to get away without cleaning the bed as often, or other issues casued by me trying to do things I know it's not supposed to be capable of.
Prusa used to have the "It just works" reputation, but the Prusa XL clearly does not "just work". At this point I am really just hoping that Bambu will put out a larger, tool changing printer and I'll just stay in this "eco-system". I'm finally printing way more than I'm being a printer repair man, and I can't go back to a printer I have to fight with.
I agree if Bambu comes out with an XL, it'll be worth trying. I am a little nervous about the waste tho. Thanks so much!
What an incredibly frustrating experience, Good for you for having the patience of a saint.👼
Thanks for your support!
I can't imagine how incredibly frustrating this must be, especially considering the cost of the 3d printer, and prusa's reputation for easy bullet proof printing on the mk3s+. I have the XL 5T as well and I'm having my own fair share of issues with print quality with it so far, so the one thing I hope is that through your issues you eventually get the right feed back from Prusa or the community and you can start enjoying your XL, and hopefully that will help other people along the way as well!
Thanks for understanding! What issues are you having with yours?
You can have a much more stable wipe tower by setting a single filament to make sure the perimeter is stable. You can do this by setting the wipe tower extruder under Print Settings->Multiple extruders. Has worked well for me with tall prints.
Thanks so much for that! I asked Prusa what to do to improve the problem with the filament on the tower not sticking together and they said to increase the heat. Your suggestions makes way better sense! Thank you!
Three things:
1) I hope you're submitting bug reports to Prusa. The XL clearly isn't working the way its supposed too. You're essentially field testing this thing for them.
2) I hope Prusa is reimbursing you for the wasted filament.
3) On textured sheets, I always have to glue down PLA prints on my MK3s and MK4s. They never stick. I use Elmers Purple glue stick. PETG usually sticks pretty well without glue.
I have been on chat several times. But it always seems to be a different issue. Maybe I need to submit them differently?
So far no I am not getting reimbursed for filament or getting free filament but that would be nice!
I didn't realize they now have PEI finally so I'll be ordering that.
Thank you!
Thanks for posting this. It is good to see the successes and the failures and I appreciate that you talk through your thoughts and feelings and how you are trying to troubleshoot the issues.
Thanks for watching!
Aw man, this is so frustrating! Especially because when it works, it's amazing.
I just want a good buddy! Thank you!
With the amount of waste generated by this printer in failed prints, it would be interesting to know what the waste to finished print on a single head colour printer such as the X1 Carbon was.
Not a comparing apples to apples with that. When this printer works correctly (which I'm sure it will, eventually), it isn't even a competition which wastes more. Comparing a malfunctioning printer to a functioning one isn't a worthwhile comparison.
If I consistently have failed prints, I do think it needs to be factored in. Not just cost of filament but wasted time. But it's very difficult to compare something that prints this large with any other machines. Thank you!
I would suggest get a steel sheet bed and the layer adhesion is so much better for my copy of the XL. I had a failure of large print fall off the bed.
The satin bed is not good enough for the PLA IMO.
Also, I would suggest to check the first layer adhesion to ensure them fully filled. My XL sometimes gets first layer far off the bed.
In terms of the tool head, you might need to recalibrate the tool head and ensure the metal pins are not lose or BENT - mine one got bent but I redid the calibration and it went okay. A little bit of the offset will ruin the docking and undocking as the tolerance is very tight.
I just ordered the PEI sheets and can't wait to try that out. And I'll redo my calibration and check things over. Thanks so much!
Seriously, I’m impressed by your patience and perseverance. It feels a whole lot like you paid Prusa 5 grand for the honor of helping them beta test their equipment. The selfish side of me is glad that you did, and that I didn’t (almost did), but I appreciate you taking the time and effort of producing these videos. Hopefully, some of these issues can be fixed with software, but they look a lot like buggy hardware to me.
It's so hard to say if my XL is typical or has some very extreme issues. I'll continue to work on it tho. Thank you!
I had a similar problem with long prints and bed adhesion at night. I have the printer in my basement and I have a smart thermostat that lowers the room temperature at night. The temp change was causing the prints, supports,or the purge tower break free. If you have an adjustable thermostat, try locking the room temp throughout the print. Cheers.
Ok I'll check it out. Thank you!
try Printed Solid in the US, they got acqurieed by Prusa a bit over a year ago and act as a authorised US reseller of Prusament :)
I'll check them out. Last time I looked, it seemed picked over too. Thanks!
Great job explaining Thank you
Thanks for watching!
In test-face I had mainly problems with the purge towers tumbling over. I stopped using a wipe tower, placed a strip with raiser blades just before and under the parked nozzles and at the start of a toolchange purge a few mm and let it go over the raiser blade a few times. It gives a mess on the bottom of the printer, but that's easy to clean.
I also stopped using z-hops, which prevents stringing for 90%. Only PETG strings a bit.
Oh wow I hadn't thought of that. Thank you!
I so feel your pain. I can't imagine how frustrating this print has been for you. I really wish I had an answer for you, but I don't. I personally do not have the Prusa XL. I hope and pray that they fix all of the issues that I've been seeing with the XL, but unfortunately this is what happens when you have such a complex machine, a lot of moving parts can complicate things when they don't go correctly. I'm going to subscribe and hit the notification bell so I can follow your journey with this machine, please keep us informed as to your progress on the Pug.
Yeah I am a little overwhelmed with all the things to try. I'm trying to follow what prusa suggests and not mod anything away from stock. Thanks so much for your support!
I've been subscribed since you were sub-1k. OMG, you have the patience of a saint. I'm guessing you stress-relieve by changing your nail color for every video 🤣. My XL 5T order came up in December and I haven't been willing to spend the money on something that isn't rock solid. Thank you for continuing to post your experiences with the XL. I hope that soon you'll be telling us it prints reliably.
Thanks for supporting me! I just want to get the machine to work! It does print boring things ok but they're things I could print on my single TH XL. I personally would wait until you're comfortable. Thanks so much!
Back to the drawing board Prusa! Release it when it’s out of the Beta phase.
I am feeling like there is something wrong with mine. Either my assembly or the pre-assembled part. We will see. Thank you!
@@tada3dprinting Maybe that is the case. Just stings that much more being prusa with how much their printers cost. I wish you the best of luck with your printer and thank you for posting great and honest content.
I have said this before, but thanks for keeping us involved in your adventures.
I have been trying to get a channel started for several months and something always seems to get in the way.
It's tough to find time to edit quality video and do everything else life throws at you.
Yes it definitely is way more time consuming than you think. But it does get easier. Thank you!
So frustrating to watch it mess up 😫 but thank you for all your testing. You can add a print pause in the slicer and manually select the start of new colors. I would recommend splitting the print in two right at the head.
Oh that's a good idea! Thank you!
For that print, see if you can cut the head off just below collar. Print in 2 pieces. Use pins to align. Head first, if works, then body
That's true. Easier to test. Thanks!
First of all, thank you for your videos and the calmness that you radiate - I would have exploded when coming to check the printer in the morning and it being stuck again. Somehow I'm also glad that I canceled my XL pre-order...
Maybe it would work better when only using Prusament?
Even though it would be (at least for me) unacceptable in the long run, it is maybe really worth a try.
I would be ok with only using Prusament if that was the magic fix for this. I am trying to see if I can get some colors and try it. Thanks so much for your support!
It would be cool if the wipe tower could be incorporated into the infill so there wasn't so much waste (i.e. make the infill be the wipe area).
I can disable it and click wipe into infill. It's not recommended by Prusa but it looked OK. Thanks!
I am currently printing a large painted buddy too! I was having some similar problems with the wipe tower falling over and found that if you eliminate the wipe tower and then tell the slicer to wipe into the infill it seems to work and I am getting good results. I also had a problem with one of the tool changers falling off when printing and found that the Nextruder dock itself was not level vertically. There is one screw on the back of the dock that I loosened, and then I used a level to make sure it was adjusted so it was level, I then tightened up the screw and calibrated just that head and I have not had a problem since. I did double check all the other docks and they seemed to be level vertically and horizontally and operate without problems.
Ok I'll definitely check that out. Thank you!
Yeah I had a similar issue with my docks during assembly. I tightened the first dock too much at first, so the screw plate in the extrusion wasn’t level so when I got to the fifth tool, out wasn’t seated properly in the extrusion. I fixed it by loosening all the docks and making sure they were all aligned properly in the extrusion before tightening them. Had no problems since!
Wow, you do have a lot of patience and persistence! I would have given up on the second one when it failed. Sad to see so much wasted filament. And the out of stock issue is not just Prusa, Elegoo seems to have the same issue, at least on the Elegoo Canada store. Love the Elegoo filament, but can't get the colours I need.
Thank you!
your videos are super insightful. I am waiting for this printer to arrive. I do believe for the price, time and wasted material Prusa needs to step up their game. If any other brand lets say Bambu comes up with a multi nozzle or even an idex printer plus ams with the reliability they currently have that will be a game changer.
The small amount of waste and quick print of the XL is really amazing. Still having some trouble with more complicated prints. But these do well. Thanks!
Filament cost 💲 143.00 USD
Cost of this much patience PRICELESS.
I’d given up after the 2nd fail.
Haha! Thanks for your support!
Check if you have a burr on the PTFE tube or connector and if it's seated all the way in the head. I had this issue. Also, I would do a cold pull with nylon/cleaning filament on each head. On all new printers after 1 or 2 spools. It's just a good idea to do a cold pull even if you don't have a clog to remove any residue. Personally, I do this every few spools. What temperatures are you using now for PLA? For Prusament with input shaper, the default settings are 230 first layer and 225 on other layers. I bump up my bed temperature to 68/69 to help adhesion.
Ok I'll check on this. With the .6 nozzle I believe it's still 215. I'll check. Thank you!
I really feel for you. Seeing this makes me nervous about trying a full build volume print! Most of my multi material prints are using 0.25mm nozzles and are pretty small. I haven’t had much trouble with mine and I’ve never had a filament not fire or a tool fall off mid print. I am curious about your dock mounting and calibration. I had to remount my docks after I found they were loose. I rarely use just Prusament and I don’t think that’s going to solve your problem. I’ve had success with pretty gnarly filament.
Oh I'd like to see what you're printing with that size nozzle. Most of my shorter or more boring prints are fine. But I would think the buddy would be a pretty basic print? Thanks!
i’ve got my 5 head xl coming in July hopefully. With any luck most of these issues people are having will have been ironed out. You are very patient , the first problem with the red filament not extruding , I would have stopped the print.
I waited almost eight months (I was offered the option of finalising my order on the first day 5THs started shipping, but decided to wait) for this exact reason. Got it in late November 2023. Sent it back in mid-December. Waiting for them to repair it.
It seems most commentors are not having any of the issues I am. I just want a cool print! Thank you!
@huntergeophysicsaustralia what was the reason for sending it back? Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting I had multiple issues, but the main one was poor layer adhesion and poor bed adhesion (particularly of the prime tower as you’ve experienced). The last attempt I made, halfway through the print it decided to print diagonally across the build plate when the model was a big rectangular box (so it was printing very big bridges across the entire build plate). It had no business making such movements and there was definitely nothing like that in the Gcode anywhere. So I have no idea why it did that. In any case, when it did that diagonal movement, something happened and both x and y axes became jammed and I couldn’t get them to move. Support just said “send it back to us”.
Hardware issues are …tolerable, if they’re fixed. But the printer running actions that weren’t even in the Gcode is just plain mental. I’m waiting for Prusa to explain that one.
i have my bambu setup to send notification to my watch
Yeah I love this feature about Bambu! I get notifcations on my phone if it catches spaghetti, runs out of filament etc. Has saved a ton of prints and a ton of mess! I have my wyze camera staring at my XL but it's just recording, not detecting anything. Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing your printing experiences. I am following you since your first video. I am sorry to see your struggle with XL 5T. Seeing how many issues you seem to have, many would have become emotional and bashing yet you remain positive (fairly😉) and curious. You have the patience of an angel 😇 .
Yet, as @PaulStevensonPinball has described so well, your experiences are not indicative for the XL. I have mine now for a few weeks and it runs flawlessly directly from the (semi-assembled) box. I literally have been running it 24/7 for full-bed multi color prints and I didnt have a single failure and every print came out perfect: excellent quality, no stringing and no waste. All I did was switch on some retraction settings ([Retraction length]: 2mm, [Retraction Speed]: 40 mm/s, [Wipe while retracting]: on, [Retract amount before wipe]: 10% and [Retraction when tool is disabled length]: 40mm), I print PLA at 210c (also Prusament PLA which at default is set to 225c) and all my filament is dried and kept at below 20% humidity. By the way, the type of filament you are using is not related to your issues, Prusament is very nice filament but not required to run the XL without problems.
I hope your patience will last until you get your issues sorted (it does sound like you have a lemon). I hope Prusa is with you to sort it or replace the machine. Maybe it would be an interesting video series to take us through the interaction with Prusa Support and/or the implementation of the suggestions from Paul Stevenson.
Keep sharing your great videos.. you will get the XL 5T to be the amazing machine it is to others.
… and indeed something is off with Prusa’s filament production. I am waiting to order as well. They seem to be out of stock for over a month now.
Thanks so much! I really appreciate hearing from others that are having such success with their XLs. Some boring prints are working for me. Enough that I am keeping at it. Thanks for your suggestions!
Your colours are spot on, that tan really shows off the subtle contours of the body. Such a shame it didn't print properly. I would have gotten so frustrated with this.
I like the shorts before the majn video, almost like teaser trailers for the main movie.
Thanks so much! I wanted to share my excitement and then panic in real time. Thanks!
Print Shift: I have mentioned this pertaining to a different issue, but this looks like an issue I was having with Z-Hop/Lift turned OFF.
I set my Z-Hop/Lift to 0.1mm.
I can't help you with your printer - but this longer form video felt like watching a Netflix crime doc. I was on the edge of my seat every time it got to the collar of the print.
If you ever do a giveaway for one of the unfinished pugs, I'd love to make him into an art project.
Haha that's nice to hear! I was a little nervous posting such a long video that didn't really have a good ending! Yes I'll be doing another giveaway at 4,000 which should be pretty soon. Thanks for your support!
Just watched a video from YGK3D (5 tools, 5 material) one. He made a comment about setting one extruder for outer perimeter of the tower. I wonder if you force the red to print the whole way up the print if that will stop the stickiness of it when it’s parked.
If it keeps moving it might run all way through with failing.
Just a thought.
That's a good idea. I was thinking of running the tower with the tan just to make sure that it was solid. Thanks!
About the dock falling off, have you checked that the front of the metal parking tool bracket is flush with the extrusion? It's the part of the dock with the latch pins. If you can wiggle it forward and back, it's not fully attached. I would take a piece of paper and see if you can push it between the two parts when wiggling the bracket. I found that my extrusion slot was probably 0.20 mm too small for the metal parking tool bracket. I broke the ball end off my personal Allen key when first installing the dock. I then disassembled the dock to get to the screw, popped out the broken ball end, and then took some parallel jaw pliers and squeezed the parking tool bracket into the extrusion. I did this until there was no more gap between the bracket and extrusion, both above and below the extrusion slot. I then screwed the rest of the dock back on.
Ok I'll check it out. Thank you!
somehow it could be nice to have some kind of wheel there could detect the filament move before the extruder motor.
Yeah and I would even be down to have some way to test it so if I tighten or loosen the screw etc that I can find out if it works. Rather than a 25 hour print. I'll have to think about that. Thank you!
Filament: I'm seeing several manufacturers struggling to keep stock. I think maybe demand is up with all the new printer being sold.
I like what I have been getting from CoEx3D, and they are a US manufacturered filament.
Thank you!
Trying to use Prusament is a good idea. I believe, that the 0.6 nozzle profiles still are not as good as the 0.4 profiles, which have been used for several other machines for a long time.
Also the input shaping with the 0.6 nozzles might cause the problems, as the flow rate of the 0.6 nozzle is lower (more volume to heat up). So the 0.4 nozzle is only a little slower than a 0.6 nozzle.
And there must be a reason, why all currently shipped XLs have 0.4 nozzles.
I agree. I just haven't had great success with it so far. But it's worth a shot! Thanks!
My MK4 didn't like the I.S. on many smaller prints, it did ok on simple stuff. Maybe print the collar and head 2 separate? Only a temporary fix of course till ya figure it out :)
Yeah that would be a way to see if the red is just sitting too long or what's going on. Thanks!
Would it be possible that the red filament gets fragile or otherwise weak in the toolhead after a very long wait after the priming? Did you try using the red filament in another toolhead? I've had a similar issue once with the XL2T where a cheap PLA filament had stopped extruding and I could just pull the filament out from the toolhead during printing. The end of the filament was flat-ish (not stringy or conical), indicating that it had probably snapped.
Yeah its possible. And eventho it printed ok on the dragon, maybe it doesn't like that the amount on the spool is low and now brittle? Thanks!
In your previous video comparing how much filament waste there is with multi filament printing on the bambu printer verses the XL...
Maybe consider calculating how much waste filament you're generating (and time wasted) from large failed prints on the XL?
I mean yes, all 3D printers will fail to print at some point, luck of the draw there. But for $4,000 for the XL, it seems that having the filament just not even fire (multiple times now) without you poking the roll, seems like it's not just a fluke anymore.
Although I'm also curious to see how long it would take the bambu on the same 3D model and multi filament (minus one color of course) just via the estimate from the slicer.
It's very true that you have to factor in failed prints. Especially when it's this many and this large.
I can't print the 14"+ size on the Bambu. But at its max on the Bambu, it looks like it would take around 50 hours and around 1200 grams. Thanks!
Can you print this with the bamboo x1c with the same colors and see if it works?
It'll be closer to 50 hours, smaller and only 4 colors. But it may be worth trying out. Thanks!
I really feel for you. It must be so frustrating. When you were using the tower I found it strange that the bottom of the tower was all black. Shouldn't there be some tan in there too? Or is it just covered up by the black. The real issue here is that you seem to be dealing with both filament issues as well as printer mechanical issues.
There have been a lot of people that have been asking for the "Time to color change" to be displayed. I don't do much multi-color printing in my MK4, but it is a pain waiting for the filament change.
I hope you get some resolution to these issue. I would love to see the Buddy print completed.
I'll look and see if there is tan on the inside. And I'm getting comments that there is a way to adjust this to have the tower be a solid color. I am planning to try this.
I am planning to run again with all Prusament.
Thanks so much!
The tower falls because it is missing a red layer, gluing shouldn’t be needed - but you still can make it wider by changing the angle in the slicer.
I wouldn’t use lightning infill, see how it is barely holding… really in space, that can’t help.
This is very maddening… so sorry. As I have shared I have had a good experience with my 2T… but with the caveat I am printing board game inserts and parts with not that many tool changes and without that much Z. I have not had the time to try a ‘full size’ print, maybe a helmet or the rocket engine.
You need to make the tower wider AND solve the problem with red. What about printing a red object on the print bed, to get the red started? (just a box done in the slicer).
I am a Prusa fan and love my 2T but these problems shouldn’t be happening in a 3500$ machine… that was very, very frustrating to watch!! So sorry. Prusament are great, but still sometimes I get Prusaments which need drying.
Mine works super well with Polymaker Polyterra, it’s a very ecofriendly and lovely matt colors, they print very well and have excellent first layer adhesion and adhesion between colors.
I tried without a tower and it left little defects on the small test print I did. That said I used an older filament I shouldn’t as it is against what you should do when using no wipe tower. Again the tower works well… it fell because of the missing red layers, makes total sense.
Really frustrating… this expensive and an experienced user like you. Again sorry….
That's a good idea to print something else to get or keep the red primed. I'm thinking of just completely swapping to a different roll of filament. But then my white had issues too. Idk. We'll see what happens next. Thank you!
I've had issues with PLA filament snapping when left alone before. I think your red might be snapping in the extruder considering that you can push it through and it continues to feed fine after that.
It sucks you've had so much trouble with everything here.
Maybe there being a lot less on the red filament spool now is affecting it too. But that last one, the white didn't fire either. Thank you!
Seams: Prusa Slicer has a paint seam option.
Yes I'll have to work on that. I was just surprised it didn't already come with the seam painted on. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting I haven't used that feature. Would be nice to see a video on how well it works.
There's two thoughts that i have about the issue with red not firing
one of my thoughts is that i wonder if the filament in the nozzle is just leaking out enough that when it finally gets to that part of the print, so maybe its just not far enough into the nozzle to print anymore
There's the little red nozzle cover thing in the back, and i would guess that it'd probably have a blob if that were the case though. And there was that one print where it worked for a few layers and then stopped working. so the more i think about that the less likely i think it is.
My other thought is that maybe the filament haves just had enough tension pulling back on the roll that over the hours it manages to pull it back just enough to not catch on the extruder gear
I know you're probably just done with this pug, but one thing you can do is manually insert a pause into the gcode. I think in prusa slicer you could insert a color change command at the layer when the red is about to start. but if you're willing to edit the gcode directly, i remember there being a command to just pause until the button is clicked. it gets used by people when they want to put magnets inside their prints. that would make it stop until you come hit buttons, so then you'd be there right at the start of the red going
one thing that might make the tower more stable, you could set the wipe tower extruder. that'll make it print an additional perimeter for the purge tower. It'll have more tool changes because you'll have it switch to that specific extruder for every single layer, but it could help with what appears to be issues with the tower adhering to itself. The default in the settings has that extruder set to 0 so it doesn't do that.
I wouldn't recommend going completely without the tower though, because the tower is there to make sure the pressure is normalized so turning it off completely could make it have even more weird random/unexplained blemishes.
there's a maintenance thing for greasing the parts where the toolhead and nozzles connect that might be worth looking into. i don't remember if you already tried that
I sometimes mix pla and petg on my printer, and i find that when the bed temperature is up at those petg temps, things REALLY stay on until the bed cools down. So you could also try bumping the print bed temperature up. But if you do, note there's an issue with it not saving if you change it on a per-extruder level. so you have to change it in your filament profile
Yeah I think I may try it again with a different color and brand new roll of filament. I didn't know about the tower option. I wish Prusa had mentioned that when I asked how to make it more sturdy.
Yes I did do the greasing the coupler pins.
I'll see about upping the temp on the bed but I think the adhesion was mostly because it sat for hours an cooled some. Thank you!
You tried a different infill after I posted this so have edited this greatly.
If you have a more consistent infill you would assume that would stabilise the perimeters so they didn't pull up. Sometimes they can pull up but usually on severe overhangs.
The tower - can you increase base and perimeters for that too? Possibly use a different model - you don't have to use the tower - if you get something with a good base it should hopefully finish. Make a part you can paint and giveaway or sell. Try get the tower as close to bed centre as you can with the pug. The edges cool more than middle and can cause issues ie plate releases. Possibly put some cardboard across the side and the front to see if that helps keep the plate warmer across the whole surface.
Try 3 or 4 perimeters - a slower successful print is better than multiple failures - makes it a bit more durable and it will likely finish. Wall thickness maybe causing the upper layer not to anchor well to lower one so drag across, then bumps the toolhead up causing the error.
Paint your own seams on the back or under arms etc.
As you tried the red in another spool slot I suspect you spool is a dud or the extruder isn't grabbing the filament and pulling/ pushing throug properly. possibly the mix wasn't right (if its prusament go to the website and see the specs on your filament roll). See if its consistent diameter etc.
I've never had a print pause for ages and resume successfully... there always a slight issue.
The prusament signal white petg was instock a around the 18/jan/24. Try prusament petg - it is rock sold! I'm in Perth Australia which is on the coast and is quite humid. But I don't dry filament and do not have any issues albeit one or two pops upon heatup. I think i had 1 day in 3 yrs where the filament popped for a long while (one layer width of the roll that was exposed to air, and cause minor pock marks. I noted i had one Petg roll that the skirt around part which crack into short segments rather than one continuous loop - so not sure if too hot or bad mix.
Rotate the pug on the plate and see if fan cooling is impacting. I've notice on last two petg print the part was nice one side but rubbish on the other and put it down to the fan - sure enough the fan shroud was bent from a blob that had accrued and warped it. I have just printed its replacement to see if it improved. SO yeah could be fan cooling too.
What's thought on the way the colour goes straight to centre. Those slamander/ lizards multicolour - i'm sure you could separate along those lines, it should be more like a zig zag to ensure no possibility of separation.
I'm going to try the tower again with a dedicated extruder to see if that helps. And I just got all new Prusament in to try. Thanks so much!
Prusa just could not get this printer right, but Bambu pushed their hand. Love Buddy, hope you can get it to work. They, Prusa should be paying you at this point.
That sounds nice but I would just be happy with getting this printer tuned. I see others with good results and it's frustrating that I am getting so many failures. Thanks!
It looks awesome….. up till it failed.
So close! Or not? Thanks!
Are you using the satin steel sheet? I bought a satin sheet for my MK3S+ and no matter what I tried, I could never get PLA to adhere to it reliably. I do very well with PLA and the smooth sheet. On the textured sheet it sticks OK but not quite as well as the smooth sheet.
After trying EVERYTHING, I ended up giving up on the satin sheet altogether.
The sheet selection probably won’t help with your failure to fire issue, but it seems bed adhesion is causing you a lot of problems as well.
It is a satin because that's what it came with. I just saw they released the PEI and have ordered it. We will see! Thanks so much!
Hint. I have 3 printers, all enclosed. One variable i avoid is breezes and it gets warm in there. For that price, should have come enclosed
I agree!
Thanks for your patience, I'm sure all of your frustration will result in improvements down the line in firmware, mounting mechanism, whatever.
But production appliance really shouldn't be this buggy.
I do understand that there is way less testing done with these prints that take a day or longer with multiple toolheads.
At this point you should look into plastic recycling, you have so much PLA from those tests I imagine.
Yeah it has produced good boring prints but these fun ones aren't working out for me. Yeah I'm trying to find someone local to me for recycling. Thank you!
From the prototyping world, you should absolutely be testing this where the issues are happening. If you give this one a go again, start a bit below the collar since it is consistently happening in the same place. I get my printer this week so im interested to see my experience, but seeing you have failed attempts so so far into the print is heartbreaking, and at least seeing if the location and issue is consistent during the print will be a start
Yeah that would be interesting to see if it still won't extrude the red even a couple hour in. Or if it's because it waits so long. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting Hope I can help by testing some of your prints with my own printer and what the results are!
All this for just $4000.
What a bargain even at twice the price.
What a gem.
It's been frustrating but I keep seeing good prints by others. I'm trying to figure out what the difference is. Thank you!
Prusa is pretty low on quality since the XL and MK4. You really can feel the pressure they have from companies like Bambu Lab. The one year my MK4 is here it already had more issues then my MK3S+ in the last three years I had it…
Quality should really be their major concern by now. Hardware, Firmware and Software need some serious fixes and adjustments.
And I'm not happy with as many slicer/firmware releases and adjustments that we have seen. It'll be interesting to see what's next. Thank you!
I need to restart my XL before & after any large print. If not it’ll layer shift then the active tool crashes. Seems like you had the exact same issue.
Ok I'll check on this. Thanks!
Wow that is so frustrating, especially since you expect a more polished and functional printer from Prusa. I'm a new MK4 owner and if I had the issues you had, I would be beside myself. Good luck, you have the patience of Job
Thanks! I think its just these more complicated prints but it is really frustrating! Thanks!
As for as not firing, there must be something about that tool head sitting for so long before being needed. Seems like the filament is jamming in the nozzle. Do the tool heads stay at temp even when not needed at the moment, or to they only heat up when ready to print that color?
If the stay hot always, maybe the filament is 'cooking' while waiting to be used.
If it's heated just before needed, maybe it's proceeding before it's up to full temp.
I think you are right about the print coming loose. My guess is that the bed is cooling down when waiting for you to interact and correct an error. That's part of the problem with these build plates that have easy release after printing. Maybe a little glue stick on the build plate when attempting such large prints will help with it staying in place.
Now for a little armchair quarter backing and trolling:
After 3 complete fails, still think BBL waste too much filament?
Only hardcore Prusa fan boys or Prusa marketing will tell you that you should use Prusa filament.
I want to see you succeed with this printer, so I'll keep watching.
Another note. Maybe you could slice off and print just the head starting at the color and use it to repair the failed prints?
I would like to know if all 5 toolheads stay hot. The screen only shows the temp of whichever single toolhead is selected at the time. I'll have to see if there is any other screen that shows this.
I agree that these failed prints are much more filament waste than my Bambu has produced. Printers not working and failing this many times is wayy too much waste!
I can understand that filament produced by the same maker as the printer should be all well tuned together. But yes I think I just need to run all the same brand and see how that works out.
Thank you!
@@tada3dprinting I wouldn't know how to check the temps with the software, but an inexpensive handheld infrared thermometer would give some idea of what happens with each tool head while parked. As for BBL, I always forget about the increased time required to make all those filament changes. My guess would be 4-5 times that of the XL. For me, print time is not important, but I can see it is for someone that uses 3DP for a business. So, once you get the quirks and glitches worked out, you will be saving material and time with the XL.
Have you ever tried to go in the slicer and just print the part that messed up? Just sand and glue?
I definitely could attempt the dog from the collar up. But I just want to figure out what happened. I am leaning towards the red filament was brittle and kept breaking. Thank you!
I think you got some bad parts on that printer. You've had multiple times where a color purged, but then didn't feed during the print. Yet others like myself, have never experienced this. Is it always that same tool that doesn't print? I would try swapping the tool to a different spot and see if the problem follows the move. Maybe you can get that extruder replaced by Prusa. I'm also curious if during a print, you can use the "cancel object" feature to cancel the wipe tower? That would be cool. Probably running it without the wipe tower is better though. As for your crashing... That's to be expected once you have a mis-printing mess everywhere. I experienced this one time when I first got the printer. (My fault however) Once it starts crashing, it skips steps in the motor, and then gets out of calibration alignment during printing, and when it goes all the way to the right by accident, it will bump the locks on the carriage and undo the head. Which is actually the intent of the design. (Bump the right side to release locks on the carriage) I would make sure you have your crash detection turned on, (mine was off by default..?) and maybe set the sensitivity to high. I'm really sorry your having so much trouble. I can honestly say that I'm not experiencing any of these issues. (Other than that one time) I believe that the only problem I've had is when I run the fan test, I get a heat break fan error on #2 toolhead. I just keep trying to pass the test over and over and eventually it will pass, and not give me any problems afterwards. Unless I try to recalibrate the fans again. It's weird too, because the fan is spinning just fine, and appears to be full speed? I'm not 100% sure what the issue is, but I might just order a new fan and replace it, or see if Prusa will send me a new one. If I were in your position, I would do this... Retighten all the tool mounts and make sure they are all where they are suppose to be. (per the instructions) and then I would redo the dock calibration and definitely redo the loadcell calibration. Then run the calibration for the tool offsets. I know it's a pain, but you need to make sure everything is fresh and checked off the list of possible causes. As for the layer seperation on the wipe tower, yeah that's more than likely a filament chemistry issue. (Unless you have another tool not extruding 100%) You can pick which tool you want for the wipe tower perimeter structure, so maybe set it to a filament that you know bonds very well and use that for the outside of the wipe tower, because that black isn't liking it. Might be too cold of temps for that black as well. Good luck TADA, I hope you can get it all worked out because when the XL does work good... It's amazing the prints you can do.
Its good to hear you are still happy with yours.
It's not consistent which toolhead is not extruding.
I am beginning to think I either got a lemon, or I seriously messed something up. Thanks also for the tip about the filament tower. I do remember specifically asking Prusa chat that I could do to improve my tower and the response was to increase temp. Wish I had known there was an easier way.
Thanks so much!
Ok so two points of failure: bed adhesion and the red filament. Which print sheet are you using? And did you clean it with ipa before the print (extremely important to do that before every print!)? The combination of textured/satin sheet and pla often doesn’t work so well. Try going with the smooth sheet, that should fix the bed adhesion. If you don’t have that, try printing it in petg, that also should fix bed adhesion, though at this size it could introduce lifting issues through warping. For the red filament: did you measure the filament diameter? It could be inconsistently to wide which could increase drag through the Bowden. Also I’m not sure if the extruder tension can be adjusted, if so, try setting it higher. Oh and did you print something high temp before with this extruder? Maybe there is some residue on the wiper, which could clog the nozzle through creep. Those would be my trouble shooting ideas.
I was using the satin sheet. Yes I do always clean with IPA first. I thought the bed adhesion was an issue. But the tower broke, so that was a filament issue. And the print moving was after it had sat in error and cooled. I don't think it would have been an issue if the print had finished like it should have.
I'm going to retry with a different filament than the red. Thanks so much!
I admire your patience & perseverance, the red color change issue makes zero sense.
Especially since I swapped the toolheads! Thank you!
I have the impression, both from here and other videos, that the XL is really unreliable.
How do you rate it?
Mine is unreliable on anything very complicated. On super boring two color or square boxes etc, it's fine.
I get a lot of comments and feedback from others saying theirs has none of the issues mine does. So it's hard to say if they are printing different things or their printer is better than mine. And it's hard to say why it would be different. I really love the Prusa brand. But I'm not happy with my 5TH XL. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting Thanks for answer! Perhaps Prusa should replace it for you. This is not good PR for them. Hope it all works out!
Prusa owns Printed Solid in the USA. They have Prusamint and they make Printed Solid Jessie…. I am not sure if Jessie is exactly the same as Prusamint, but I have had good luck with it. Maybe send your video to Prusa… maybe they can send you some free spools for your time and wasted filament. I would only make the recommendation that all the filament be the same brand, not necessarily Prusamint, since they then would have the similar shrinkage.
Ok, I'll check it out. Thank you!
I bet if you'd tried to print this with the Bambu Lab X1C it'd have printed with no issues. I've seen significantly more complicated prints go without a hitch in the X1C. Prusa had better get their act together. The myriad issues I've seen people have with the XL and their filament being out of stock like that seems indicative of a company in decline.
It might be a good test to see how it does. Definitely would waste a lot more filament on the Bambu. But if it worked on the first time, then it would be amazing!
I have recently had something happen that resembles your red filament not working even though it purged at the start of the print. The filament broke inside the extruder right at the extruder gear due to the pressure of the gear so the filament was still loaded but could not be pushed through the nozzle. The filament seemed ok, but it after a few failures of this kind and I realized that the filament was corrupted.
I ended up doing a full build volume print of buddy just to see if there was a consistent problem with the printer, but it came out great. The video is here: watch?v=5FwbY4fZiEU
Oh thanks for sending that! That's very likely. I almost wondering if I need to be careful of filament that doesn't have much filament left and is a little more curly? I think the tube setup of the XL may be just a little tougher on filament. Thanks so much!
When the printer is not extruding any filament, the printer could be made to detect it happening. Because the motor and heater will use less power.
I think you have exposed 2 flaws: That the extruding stopped, and it was not detected.
Yeah that's true. But really the only sensor is the filament sensor and it of course detects there is filament still there. Eventho it's not moving. Hmmmm. Thank you!
15:57 that's crazy how the cover does not have a through hole for filament pressure tension.
i'd prob just dump the cover extra mass to sling around.
Someone told me I can unlock it without unscrewing it. I'll have to check this out. Thank you!
Bummer your having so many issues.
You seriously need to get the PEI sheet since you seem to mainly print pla. Pla sticks so much better to the PEI than it does to the satin.
Have you seen the recommendation to grease the pins on the tool heads. I wonder if that's the issue your having with number 5.
Thanks for your support. I hadn't seen they finally came out with a PEI for the XL!
Yes I did grease the coupler pins. But I'll check that the last one still looks good. Thank you!
@@tada3dprinting Yes they have a PEI for the XL. I have one.
Very odd on the red filament. Since it followed the filament when you changed extruders it must have extra drag or something, or maybe sitting a long time at the preheat temperature is causing it to get soft and not come out when it's finally needed later in the print.
Maybe try setting the idle temperature for that specific filament like 20 degrees lower. It'll take a little longer to heat up, but no big deal if it works.
separate print the head and the body, may reduce the print fail risk.
Thank you!
By hollowing it out you made a great choice for a bank.... lol Thanks for sharing. EDIT: Fill the areas you don't want coins to go to like the legs were it might get stuck....
Haha good idea! Thank you!
Last thing… I am not sure if you need a brim when printing that large to keep it bonded to the plate. He only has his little paws and butt to hold him down. Good luck!
True. It might help. But the red is what concerns me. Thanks!
hi, which cream filament is that?
It's called "burly" by Sunlu. It's pretty right?
@@tada3dprinting Yes it is. The image on amazon does not do justice to the actual color
Good video on the issues, excited to see your progress until mine comes in. I do wish Prusa had some sort of better ai tools like Bambu or AnkerMake with a camera add on or something.
Thanks so much!
I hate it when I have to waste so much filament and time because a print failed. Its heartbreaking.
I agree! Thank you!
Don't tighten the idler screws too much, I had accidently done so on my Mk4 and it always results in a failure to feed. I almost wish there was a sensor in the tool heads to measure the pressure of the filament extruded so the printer actually knows if filament is being extruded or not.
Oh that would be a good feature. I mean Prusa chat literally told me to tighten all 5 THs two full turns. And then I am getting comments that they were probably too tight to begin with. I wish there was even a print test for this that doesn't take 25 hours! Thanks!
If I paid $4k, I would be livid and returning this..
I just want it to work! Thanks for your support!
Would the bambu have better results with the AMS?
Almost certainly yes, though not as big (prusa xl has bigger print area)
So the largest it can go on the Bambu would take about 50 hours and 2 KGs of filament. And of course only be 4 colors. Might be worth seeing how it looks. Thanks!
This guy had an explanation for issues similar to yours. czcams.com/video/eZYngEnAgYs/video.htmlsi=DMM5sYnVY2IxSNp8&t=346 and then Robert Cowan diagnoses the issue in the comments. I guess he fixed it in the build by filing down an area that was causing the toolhead to not seat correctly.
@RobertCowanDIY
2 months ago
@ygk3d Thanks! So, the locking mechanism should fully constrain the toolhead, allowing for zero movement. I could make a short video to show you what's going on with mine. There might be a misalignment of some of the parts, but when mine are locked, they feel like a single solid part, there is NO shift at all. They are loose on the 'dock' (on the back of the machine), but this is to allow them a bit of compliance when picked up. But once picked up, it should be solid and repeatable. I would check to make sure the plastic holder (the thing screwed into the back of the rear rail) is properly engaged IN the rail channel. There's a boss that extrudes into the center rail channel and it needs quite a bit of force to lock in place. If that's not happening, it might be skewed sideways, causing this issue. But any amount of compliance in the toolhead carrier is bad and needs to be corrected.
@RobertCowanDIY
1 month ago
@suivzmoi The toolhead 'docks' sit on the rear rail. The main part that attaches to the frame is 3d printed and has a small boss that sticks out, interfacing with the extrusion. It's VERY tight. If you don't get it perfectly snug, it doesn't seat well against the rail. In my assembly video, you can see that I actually file it down (I don't discuss it, it just shows it quickly in the assembly timelapse). If you don't get that part flush against the rail, it will be at an angle. So when you pick up a tool, it won't be flush either, and it will need to be 'nudged' into place.
This. (Regarding the issue with the tool dock releasing) I am fairly certain only one of the 2 latches engaged. I noted the same issue with the fit of the bosses to the extrusion when assembling mine. The screws should be much larger (M5 or larger rather the M3) so you have enough clamping force to overcome the interference fit.
As for the extruder jam, I can't say this has happened to me but I wouldn't be shocked if this part was damaged: extruder-main-plate-xl.stl. The detail on this part is too small and I really feel it shouldn't have been FDM printed.
Ok I'll check it out. Thanks so much!
Seems like something is going on with Prusa they have been out of filament for awhile now it very strange.
Just saw the recycled colors come available. Maybe I can make these work. Thank you!
Prusa= The most expensive "home made" printer in the world!!
Haha. And fully-assembled that still takes hours to put together.
I can't believe that machine still has this many issues after the lengthy production time. Seems like the way printers are advancing, the XL will be outdated before it gets to be truly reliable. Very disappointing. Hope you have better luck in the future.
The XL does not have this many problems. I have my XL 5T for a few weeks now and I am running it 24/7. I haven't got a single failed print. Every print is flawless, fast and wirhout waste. It is truly an amazing machine.
I am getting a lot of comments with subscribers saying theirs is not like this. I must've missed something. Thank you!
Thank you for confirming my decision NOT to buy an XL. After placing a pre-order the day it was announced, I saved money until finally getting an email saying I could purchase a unit. In the meantime the Bambu Carbon was released. I've not yet purchased a Bambu either, but I eagerly await a large volume 3D printer from them.
I love my Carbons. I also want Bambu to come out with a large format. But I wish they would also do a tool changer.
The XL does not have this many problems. I have my XL 5T for a few weeks now and I am running it 24/7. I haven't got a single failed print. Every print is flawless, super fast (3-5x faster than the Bambu AMS) and without waste. It is truly an amazing and reliable machine.
@cees9314 my friend has a 5 tool XL and he has no issues either.
I'm really starting to think I either got a lemon or I messed something up in putting together the final steps of this "fully-assembled" machine. My boring prints are fine. But I am dying to print something cool!
Meanwhile, my Bambus are printing great. But multicolor take quite a bit longer than the XL and of course are smaller. Thanks so much!
@@tada3dprinting I'm in the same place as you. Had no end of problems like in this video (and others) with my 5TH. Sent it back for repair. I don't know how they can send that slip with the printer that says "we tested this printer and it's working" when clearly it isn't.
Use the same brand of filament for every color, doesn't need to be prusament.
Thank you
The whole video feels like a very expensive beta test.
I hope Prusa improves it quickly.
I just feel like I'm missing something. Thank you!
i dont know, but i think that their satin sheet is not as good as lets say the textured sheet. They say, that you cant print materials such as PLA onto it, but if you wash it with dish soap and water after it arrives, you can print PLA on it as good as PETG, ABS etc... It has some sort of like protective film i think, bcs of storing into their storages and so... I would definitively consider buying another type of sheet, bcs the stickable int that good on satin in my opinion
I seem to be doing better with the Satin but someone just told me they have PEI now so I have ordered it. I think the loss of adhesion is more from it sitting paused for hours overnite tho. Thanks!
Print it in cream, mask it and paint it.
Sounds nice. But not why I spent 4k on a printer. Thanks!
So unfortunate every XL video is a troubleshooting session. I would've given up so long ago.
But it was so pretty before it failed! Haha thank you!
Why not print it smaller? What is this print for?
Yes I could print it smaller. But my main reason for getting this printer is to print large and tall things. The buddy is an included file so I shouldn't have issued printing it. I was trying to use this as a base to try more complicated prints. Thanks!
this machine is a real scrap!!!
It needs some work. But I can't seem to give up on it. Thanks!
its not a temp tower its a wipe tower WTF
Haha you're right. I just have temp tower in my head.
A $4000 printer...what a disappointment, Will wait for the Prusa XL mk2...that will be fire after they fixed and polished the product and hopefully ditched marlin for something better like klipper
Or...by the time it takes them to make it good, bambu will drop a multi head large format printer and then it's game over
It will be interesting to see what's next. I almost think Prusa will release a mini CoreXY. We will see! Thanks!
Watching these repetitive failures from the XL would make me really angry at the manufacturer. I'd be demanding refunds. You wasted multiple spools on these issues. For the price or this machine, in the current landscape of printers that are expected to just work, this machine is one issue after the next.
It's been very frustrating. Partly because other more "boring prints" print fine. It's seems like these "fun" prints are just too much for it. I need to get on chat again. But I almost don't know where to start.
@@tada3dprinting I think you should really consider asking chat for a printer swap. I saw Joel has good success, I saw Robert Cowen have very good success, you may find some over and above recommendations of what to do, but realistically your best option is to ask Prusa to honor their warranty and swap out the machine. The random tools not feeding, having to help it by pushing filament even after it primes, that's not normal, not even by standards from all the issues other folks have posted about the XL. A tool may not feed properly when it's at the edge of thermal creep, if the tool sits there at temperature for a long time and the filament gets soft in the cold zone. Many reasons for that -- extruder fan is glitchy, which can also explain random oozing, but all that is chasing issues you should not have to, you have done way more troubleshooting than should be expected. You seem to have one of the earlier units, get it swapped out.