Multi-Color Print on the Prusa XL - Custom Miniature Showers
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- čas přidán 23. 02. 2024
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Really fascinating, the oddball "line" issue and all the steps you take to understand it & work around it. Lots of interesting details + food for thought for the 3D community.
Thanks so much!
the multicolor print time on this thing is incredible
and the (non) waste is awesome
Yes. And I can print 6 at a time so the timing will be even better. Thanks!
If you are separating the shower pan / tub from the walls, you can print with the wall rotated 90 degrees so it will take less time to print.
and less waste / smaller tower
That's interesting. I'll check it out. Thanks!
I’m glad that this works so well! I think the separation of the tub and wall probably looks more natural as a finished product and is worth the count of extra hours.
Thanks so much!
Pretty cool, printing this all at once is something that the XL can definitely do faster than an X1C or P1. To print in a bambu you would have to print flat walls with just one color change and with connectors and pray they fit or re-design, reprint and fit together.
Yes it would be possible to split up. But it's nice to print and not worry about the fit. Thanks!
Very Helpful! Thank You...
Loving all the Prusa xl content! Just ordered a 5 tool head XL yesterday!
Thank you!
I think that weird line you're seeing should be addressed in prusaslicer 2.7.2 which is about to be released (currently in beta). They've "reimplemented a significant part of multi-material segmentation from scratch" which addresses this sort of artifact.
If 2.7.2 doesn't fix it, my only other idea of what could be causing it is that tinkercad is doing something weird to the mesh of the model.
Oh and 2.7.2 also fixed that bug where you need to reposition the tower.
It just got rc1, so it should mostly be ready to go.
I'll keep an eye out for it. Thanks!
A trick you might try is to put both models on the bed at where you want them, and then scale the one piece so you can see what it looks like before you print. Then delete the other object that you don't want.
Good idea. Thanks!
My XL came with 0.4 mm Nozzles. Most issues you describe I do not have. I love my XL al lot! Best printer i Have - so far.
Good to hear! Thanks!
I've been curious about inset pieces like that, so I'm glad to see your method working. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
I don't know how you always make your design but in fusion you can make a body for every color (item) and export it as a mesh. In bambu you can than select the body with the right filament.
Ok I may need to try that out. Thank you!
Joel just posted a video where he had a weird line and I believe the way he worked around it was to do 0% infill and increased the perimeters, instead and I think that resolved it for him. Hopefully, the new updates fix this really annoying issue. Thanks for sharing!
Ok I'll try that. Thank you!
Good to see you are getting some successful prints. A lot of logic and thought to get past the line problem
Thanks so much!
You can adjust k factor and hot end temperature to stop the messy seams.
Thank you
Sorry to hear/see you still have issues with the XL. Got my XL upgrade from 1TH to 5Th's and so far everything i threw at it prints great!. The only difference is that i have all 0.4mm nozzles on all Th's. But also great to see that it worked out in the end ofc.
Glad you are happy with yours! Thanks!
The XL does things that NO other printer can do.
Makes you cry.
@dominickbrookes5103 it has some cool features for sure. Thanks!
@oaba201 haha, that really made me laugh! Thanks!
I think you line is to do with the purge rower, it appears where the curve section disappears, can you change to a rectangular tower, I think the line will disappear. You get similar artefacts on multi part prints and sometimes complex parts.
I actually removed the tower completely and the line still showed in the preview. But the new slicer removed it. Thanks!
I tried your room box problem with 2.7.1 and I think it is clear that the issue is with the slicer. In that case the inner wall was not touching the floor after slicing. And that was done by painting the outside of the box. The issue has to be with the slicer. It is great to set your top line problem disappear, maybe the room box problem will get fixed in a later update.
Yes I am still trying some things. Thanks so much!
PrusaSlicer 2.7.2 has some changes to the algorithms for multi-material painting. So it might fix that line issue. Their blog post has some details.
I'll check it out. Thank you!
Also on fits and clearance, I usually use 0.2mm for a tight fit (0.1mm each side)… you can make it a specific length/width in the slicer
Ok thanks so much!
nice work. thanks for the video.
Thank you!
I’ve seen this movie before. “Half Baked”. 😂😂😂
I have got disrupted by the nail varnish. Looks good on you! 13:00
Haha I was looking at blue so much that I painted my nails 💅 blue. Thanks!
My first thought on the white line was that it was caused by tinker cad. I have seen it do weird things in the past with models. It was nice starter software to get into 3d design, but you would be far better of doing it in Fusion 360. Another thing you could try is to do a repair of the model in Prusa Slicer, if you right click on it in the right pane there is a repair option.
Oh that's true. I didn't see an error but I could still try it. Thanks!
Please submit bug reports to Prusa with regards to any unexpected incorrectly painted lines.
The differing color problem is due to the plastic not being opaque. Increasing infill on the walls may have stopped the inside blue from showing through.
Another thing you could do is after the inner walls all painted blue, just add the down sized tub back and print at once.
It would be worth trying. Thanks!
Just must've been some bug in prusaslicer when painting at certain heights. I wonder if a model created in another CAD program will have the same problem as tinkercad isn't known to have the highest quality exported models it has lower polygon/facets than fusion360 for example. Give me a shout if you'd like me to quickly do it in fusion for comparison.
The roughness on the first print I think are caused by the warping on the bottom left, causing everything to shift and nozzle to drag.
Interesting. She's happy with the final result. But I'll keep that in mind. Thanks!
Have you ever tried printing without the prime and purge tower? The guy from the 3d printing today podcast swears that by retracting out of the melt zone in tool park (it's like 10 or 11mm) slowing that retraction speed way down on the park and lowering the print temps that he can print multi color without a prime purge tower.
I did try it on the buddy print because I was having issues with the tower. It worked fine but I had other issues that crashed my print. I'll try it next time. Thanks!
Part cool can effect rough edges.
My fan died on me Ender 3 S1 Pro, so I replace the fan with a blower and a three outlet duct instead of the single outlet. The there sides of the print facing the ducts are normally great and the side away from the ducts sometimes is rough.
Oh that's annoying! Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting Point is if rough surfaces are a recurring issue either slowing print speed down or consider upgrading your part cool device (fan).
If you need help upgrading your fan, let me know.
I am lowering my print speed to 80% to print large prints with flat side. Because the gcode does not extrude more to compensate for the speed. This on the Mk4. But it was also a litty related to the filament
Thank you!
Are you using STL or STEP models? If you're not using STEP, I suggest exporting your files as STEP and retesting them in the slicer. The same goes for your other video with the black line (Black and White Miniature Roombox).
Stl. I'll check that out. Thank you!
That line might be because of how model was designed, when you combine a few originally separate objects into a single object.
I'd try to redesign it from scratch now that you know what you need exactly and avoid concatenation of objects.
Good point. Thank you!
I have the brushes installed on my XL and I am able to print a lot of things without a wipe tower. It cuts down on the time significantly and waste goes to zero. I think your print could be done without a wipe tower if you have the brushes installed.
That's true. Especially on something simple like this. I'll try it. Thanks!
Highly recommend the switch to .4 nozzles. Why hesitate?
I tried it on a small print and didn't like it. But maybe it's time to try it on a large print. Thanks!
The intrusive white line is pretty frustrating, glad you managed to work around it.
Thanks so much!
Have you checked your belt tensions recently? I'm wondering whether your belts are a little loose, which is why you're getting the dodgy corners. Others are saying that it's better to design each different colour as a separate part in CAD, then import them together: not sure if you can do that with Tinker CAD, but you can in Fusion 360.
Ok thank you!
Great job on figuring this out, reading comments I seen someone asking for the file I would never send someone a file outer then support it get used to complete against you
Thank you!
Two things, 1) sharp corners don’t do well with input shaping especially… try filet corners even as little as 0.5mm, 2) can you share your stl or 3mf file on the one with the white line on the blue? I’d like to see if I can recreate…..
I think I see what you mean.
I thought that the whole point of input shaping, is to increase quality at corners.
Unless I'm wrong, the problem with the XL is that it doesn't have a way to measure resonances for calculating proper input shaping values. It uses a canned generic input shaping value that doesn't work for all printers.
@@jbrou123 If I got it right, tuned pressure advance will help with corners (as it regulates the amount of filament being extruded), while input shaping compensates for vibrations resulting in better surface quality.
I shouldn't have tried to run a square shape with the speed profile. And I'm glad the newer slicer is helping. Thanks!
As I mentioned before I've seen thid kind of thing on a single color print. I suspect it was something in the slicer.
Yes hopefully will be resolved in the next version. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting So there will be a reason to upgrade to 2.7.x from 2.6.1. I don't always like to upgrade if there isn't a reason.
I never select the "speed" profiles on my MK4 - quality just not good enough. The structural IS presets are still sufficiently fast.
Yes I agree. Thanks!
It really hurts watching tinkercad... ;) I would do this in 6 separate pieces and glue them together, one for each blue wall, one for the floor, one for box and one for tub/pan. Much nicer blue walls that can be printed on another printer. No tower and faster prints. Parallel processing = total print time much lower.
I used to make everything separated by color. But I found I would have so many printers tied up for one item. Seems I am more efficient this way. I agree that separating and single color prints are much faster. But I get distracted working on other things and don't flip all my printers immediately when they finish.
Thanks!
G4 S* would be in seconds right?
Sorry I comented on the wrong video 😴
Still using the .6 nozzles??? make the switch! ;). they are cheap
Discounts for XL owners too.
You call $20 per nozzle cheap? That's $100 total.
I actually have them. I tried them out and didn't like them. And on just a couple of prints it looked like the .4 would take longer. Since I'm printing such boring square things most of the time, I'm actually thinking of going to a .8. Thanks!
watching you grapple with the white line. and realized there is an solution in my head. don't know if this solution will work; split the wall into two. white side tapered starting wide on bottom to nothing on top. and the blue, wide on the top, tapered to nothing on the bottom. combine both and print. however not sure how to force slicer to recognize object separation
Yeah that would be worth trying. Thanks!
I think this is a height based issue. Why don't you try printing the long side of the model flat on the bed?
I didn't think that would have a clean overhang on the tub and shower pan. But I ended up splitting that anyway. Might be worth a try! Thanks!
Hi! I'm considering one of these printers, and your detailed content/experiences is very much appreciated for an in-the-trenches view. I also run an Etsy shop, and (at least on paper), this thing would be a game-changer for me... But, looking around at yours and others content, it appears that it still has a way to go. There always seems to be a caveat to getting what you want/need, and I'm not looking to pay 4K to tinker. Anyhow: it looks like there is some pretty significant z-banding when you showing the finished prints at czcams.com/video/CFowWejHyeU/video.html - You didn't mention this, so I assume that the lighting is magnifying the effect. Still, seems kind of disappointing, cause I really want to like this printer.
Yeah I was curious if anyone would notice it. It is there but the camera does amplify it. I'm sure the .4 nozzle and smaller layer heights would help. I decided to send as is since it was a sample anyway. The customer loved it and wants more. So I'm happy with the time savings of the .6 nozzle and the .32 layer height.
I get a lot of comments that they love their XL. I like it for the large size and the multi color. But it's been a very frustrating process for me. I like it enough to not send it back. But I've had another pre-order available for a month that I think I'm just going to cancel.
Most of my prints can be done on the X1C and I'd rather get more of those. I have had very little issues with them.
So it really depends on what you want the XL for. Prusa chat is helpful but I don't have time/patience to tinker either.
You could always order it and try it out. And if it doesn't fit your needs, I'm sure someone would buy it from you. Thanks!
As I always told you, please use a filament dryer and you can switch the prime tower of.
Yeah I'll try that on the next set. Thanks
Seeing that you design this yourself, what I don't understand is why not just create a multi part object and import this as a MMU project instead of MMU painting 1 object?
Unless tinkercad cannot do this of course.
I'll see if this is possible. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting For some reason I just cannot wrap my mind over the conventional CAD tools (well only tried FreeCAD).
But in OpenSCAD I have to resolve to defining the model into separate entities and create STL for these entities one at a time (at their correct position) and import those STL at once into the slicer to trigger the "is this an mmu object" request. This negates all those painting bugs.
Maybe I should take a look at TinkerCAD.
At some point you need a more sophisticated cad but great video
Thank you!