Feels like it burns through a set of bearings after 2 benchies, very impressive to get it to move that quick -- good idea on running the steppers at 48v.
Blazing fast, great achievement! 48V stepper is a great idea! Most of the quality issues are from cooling the model. You can’t squeeze out enough airflow with this setup. I think you should try out a berd-air, or any king of compressed air solution. I use this kind of setup on my printers for years now. I switched because of my heated chamber, but I converted all my printers now. Easier to mount and much lighter than fans. You also have enough static pressure to make any kind of air nozzle you want. And with volumetric machines airflow is independent from the pressure (you have the same pressure no matter how fast you rev). If you want more air you can always put a beefy compressor next to your printer. I also tried blower fans but those are insanely loud, and loose static pressure quickly.
Very well explained and very well made video! Cheers for that! Beside I didn't think that a movable gantry can be that stiff to sustain those hard accelerations. Dude! Cool!
At 2:35 you mention the 5160 step stick that will take 48V. I've listened several times and still can't hear the full name. Would you please give a link to it? Thanks in advance.
good job on the new record! I hope the nova helps with speed. I do have a question though, now that coreXY and cross gantry printers are approaching the speeds of the fastest deltas out there, do you think there is still a place for the delta, or is it a dead kinematic system?
That was incredible. Are the motors for xy even moving with the z axis or are they connected using keyed shafts? Also for cooling, have you considered using a large fan pushing air through a flexible tube?
do you run such speeds (ofc not that that fast but in the area of it) for normal prints. I mean it would be nice for bigger printers to keep the small layer height
Thats not a 3D printer..thats a filament cooker :D..i couldn't contain myself from grinning through the entire printing process. Great printer, love the color of the alu. profiles.
Did you order your extrusions in that color or where they custom painted after purchasing? I've been looking into building a voron at some point and would love to get white extrusions for the build.
Just built mine, still rocking stock everything, in your experience, how fast could you print a good looking benchy, with stock 24v drivers and stock motors? I think I'd be ecstatic if I could print a good looking benchy at 0.2 LH in ~15 mins...
Hi Josh! Very impressive :) I’ve noticed your homing, QGL and bed mesh speed is very fast ^^ Did you notice any inaccuracies or disadvantages conpared to slow(er) speeds for “normal” prints and large prints that cover a big portion of the bed?
did you ever have issues with the carbon fiber tube when printing in a hot chamber? say ABS/PC. I heard from E3D that the carbon fiber gives them a lot of issues due to the vastly different expansion rates. they said that it bend the rail a bit causing issues such with bed leveling. tho in your orientation it'd be more like a bent wall.
We need a larger test print than benches, because rn it's just cooling that's the issue, meaning much larger savings are had with larger prints. Perhaps like printable fabric to also see tolerances.
Don’t be sad, just convert it to a Voron Switchwire and knock out 200mm like a walk in the park! And it makes cool sounds and blows your hair back to boot!
Which company sells those 48v compatible stepstick boards? I would like to add that to my parts list for the voron I'm building. I will probably build it stock at first but I would love to experiment with running the A/B motors at 48v!
Definitely start out stock. Watterott in Germany - they have international shipping and English site. It cost me ~$20 US per driver with shipping when I ordered four.
really cool, it would be interesting to film it with a high speed camera and see where there is flex or hysteresis in the printer.. also i wonder if there's something to moving the part cooling fans off the toolhead, maybe get the air in via tubes instead.. besides the weight i wonder if there aren't gyroscopic resistances at that speed as well
Awesome concept about the 48V to the drivers. What you verbally described makes perfect sense! But, how are you cooling your "stock" motors with that much power? And, they are the stock 0.9 motors, right?
I don't know what is the situation like 2 years ago, but right now, people undertaking these challenges will use high-powered motors such as the LDO 42STH48-2804AH motors, running at 48V 2A.
I’ll be honest this isn’t a good first printer build. It’s pretty complicated and you have to cut and crimp all your own wire. Having said all that check the manual it’s really great and should give you a better idea if you’d be up for it.
wow. crazy and very impressive!!!! i guess tmc5160 will go to upgrade list. btw can you share your print start gcode sequence would like to implement that to my v2 :)
I'm no 3d printing expert but. If you can't do the print with out all that calibration warm up stuff shouldn't that be included in with your time? 🤔 Just saying 🤷♂️
Ничего себе! Вот это да! Но я бы забоялся бы оставлять работать такой 3d-принтер без присутствия человека... А так - невероятно быстро! Но что с качеством?
To get to the next level of speed, why don't you switch to cooling with light tube ducts. Mount the fans somewhere and just attach the tubes to the print head with adapters. That way you're not moving the fans around which would be much heavier than tubes. I haven't seen tubes for this application, but it should be easy enough to make such tubes to blow the air through. Design Prototype Test guy also was planning to do this with compressed air device, but it should work with normal fans too. You could even get much more powerful fans now since they are no longer on the print head. I think it's the next logical step. The only thing moving around should really be the nozzel. Also why haven't you tried remote drive? I tried a remote drive a while back which wasn't too great, all 3d printed parts. I didn't spend much time fine tuning. However if you use 1:1 bevel gears, you shouldn't have to change the gear ratio at all, probably just account a bit for the drive chain. Just some thoughts! let me know what you think.
god damn that speed is nuts, sounds like its dismantling itself as it prints
your mean dismantling its parts?
@@andrewjamez more like splitting the mollecules
Kudos on the quick benchy with an actual smoking smokestack. I have a new goal in life.
These kind of competitions should be called "printing a melted benchy in mm:ss"
printer go brrr. Oh, and that bed mesh is *awesome* :)
Dude that smokestack was actually smoking... This is so insane, thank you (and other youtubers) for bringing this kind of printing to another level
I'm loving the competition in this area.
Awesome!!! Fantastic work Josh! I am very impressed by your work! :)
The Benchy was smoking at the end .... LOL
Right !
awesome benchy! dont forget to put in #speedboatrace
Feels like it burns through a set of bearings after 2 benchies, very impressive to get it to move that quick -- good idea on running the steppers at 48v.
Blazing fast, great achievement! 48V stepper is a great idea!
Most of the quality issues are from cooling the model. You can’t squeeze out enough airflow with this setup. I think you should try out a berd-air, or any king of compressed air solution. I use this kind of setup on my printers for years now. I switched because of my heated chamber, but I converted all my printers now. Easier to mount and much lighter than fans. You also have enough static pressure to make any kind of air nozzle you want. And with volumetric machines airflow is independent from the pressure (you have the same pressure no matter how fast you rev). If you want more air you can always put a beefy compressor next to your printer. I also tried blower fans but those are insanely loud, and loose static pressure quickly.
thats freakin amazing !!! congrats
Now I know what to do with my spare time =)... nice work Josh
That's just awesome dude. Sounds like my vibration alarm on my smartphone. Not sure if I want to run my Voron at this speed, but this is amazing!
Congrats! Well done!
the guy talking calmly while the printer is melting itself is quite funny
Very well explained and very well made video! Cheers for that!
Beside I didn't think that a movable gantry can be that stiff to sustain those hard accelerations. Dude! Cool!
Awesome man
Congrats!
Awesome! Good job!
that thing straight up sounded like it was skipping a load of steps it was slamming the head around so much lol
Wow way to go man! Very impressive. I'm glad it's you doing it😂😂😂. I don't think I could do that too mine lol.
Very cool! Very fast indeed! Gonna definitely try hookup 48v for my steppers on my next attempt, with my new delta!
That is insane!
Fast today becomes the future’s standard.
I cannot wait to see where we will be at in 5 years.
Z-axis thunk-thunk-thunk-thunk...
You sure chose an expensive way to build a metronome.
Very cool!
5:04 sounds like it's beatboxing :0
I wanna see that spool spin!
WOAH it totally does!!
WHAT. THE. FUCK.
That's amazing, good job!
At 2:35 you mention the 5160 step stick that will take 48V. I've listened several times and still can't hear the full name. Would you please give a link to it? Thanks in advance.
You are awesome 😎
Loooove that XYZ extruder.
That’s insane bro
Awesome job bro, I love cura slicer for raw speed, I can’t wait to build mine of course I won’t be pushing those speed lol 😂 but for fast abs prints
good job on the new record! I hope the nova helps with speed. I do have a question though, now that coreXY and cross gantry printers are approaching the speeds of the fastest deltas out there, do you think there is still a place for the delta, or is it a dead kinematic system?
Holy cow that's fast.
wowow!!!
so fast! i was a lil worried the first 22 seconds but looks to be fine just noisy...
kickass smoke out of the smoke stack lol
can't wait to see how much faster it'll be with a hotend that has a higher volumetric rate
That was incredible. Are the motors for xy even moving with the z axis or are they connected using keyed shafts?
Also for cooling, have you considered using a large fan pushing air through a flexible tube?
SEXY voron love the colors
do you run such speeds (ofc not that that fast but in the area of it) for normal prints.
I mean it would be nice for bigger printers to keep the small layer height
boom tak tak tak boom tak tak tak
It was fast!
Can this printer print at that speed over the entire print volume? For example, at the top of the printable area
Nice one
Which hothead do you use ?
Is it high flow ?
Does it cause any problems when running slower for more quality ?
Great video. Whats your Input Shaper frequencies?
Thats not a 3D printer..thats a filament cooker :D..i couldn't contain myself from grinning through the entire printing process. Great printer, love the color of the alu. profiles.
I like how quick your leveling is, what settings did you use?
Sounds like a speed metal band on fast-forward.
I use a light flex air duct instead of cooling fans . The blowers are then fixed to the frame. Sadly it wistle a lot due to the ribs in the air duct.
what's the temps like when running 48 volts on your steppers?
Did you order your extrusions in that color or where they custom painted after purchasing? I've been looking into building a voron at some point and would love to get white extrusions for the build.
Dude where did you get this part cooling from? This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for
Just built mine, still rocking stock everything, in your experience, how fast could you print a good looking benchy, with stock 24v drivers and stock motors?
I think I'd be ecstatic if I could print a good looking benchy at 0.2 LH in ~15 mins...
Gadzooks!
whoch hotend you used for this`?
Hi Josh!
Very impressive :)
I’ve noticed your homing, QGL and bed mesh speed is very fast ^^
Did you notice any inaccuracies or disadvantages conpared to slow(er) speeds for “normal” prints and large prints that cover a big portion of the bed?
Are you using sensorless homing for X and Y?
🤯
did you ever have issues with the carbon fiber tube when printing in a hot chamber? say ABS/PC.
I heard from E3D that the carbon fiber gives them a lot of issues due to the vastly different expansion rates. they said that it bend the rail a bit causing issues such with bed leveling. tho in your orientation it'd be more like a bent wall.
Hey, awesome video. Really cool to see a bench’s being printed this fast. I have one question though, don’t you lose accuracy when probing this fast?
essentially yes and often times so much loss that prints turn out absolute trash and it all becomes not even worth it.
Sounds like a sewing machine hoddamn!
We need a larger test print than benches, because rn it's just cooling that's the issue, meaning much larger savings are had with larger prints. Perhaps like printable fabric to also see tolerances.
where can i find this toolhead design?
I think this irs the new rekord wow it's crazy fast
It's about to rattle it's self to bits
now I'm just pissed at my poor lil ender 3 ..!! yours is damn fast!!
Don’t be sad, just convert it to a Voron Switchwire and knock out 200mm like a walk in the park! And it makes cool sounds and blows your hair back to boot!
But... You can probably buy 10 E3s for they same price and still beat him on output and they actually look good. So yeah...there's that.
damn that is fast, did it beat the MP mini delta speed?
With a printer like this, what speed do you use for normal quality prints?
Holy shit that is so fast
Probe is that? It is so fast. Can you probe that fast with a omron bom probe?
wut i can'T hear you what are you suing for the 48v stepper voltage ??? with an skr 1.4 ???
Which company sells those 48v compatible stepstick boards? I would like to add that to my parts list for the voron I'm building. I will probably build it stock at first but I would love to experiment with running the A/B motors at 48v!
Definitely start out stock. Watterott in Germany - they have international shipping and English site. It cost me ~$20 US per driver with shipping when I ordered four.
@@JoshMurrah Thanks!!
@@JoshMurrah link please?
@@JoshMurrah Damn it I know I should have ordered a pair atleast when you put out this video, they're outa stock :(
Some day the Voron community will discuss about removing unneeded material off the linear rail block.
really cool, it would be interesting to film it with a high speed camera and see where there is flex or hysteresis in the printer.. also i wonder if there's something to moving the part cooling fans off the toolhead, maybe get the air in via tubes instead.. besides the weight i wonder if there aren't gyroscopic resistances at that speed as well
The toolhead is not rotating. There are not gyroscopic effects.
Anyway, move the fans outside the toolhead is a good idea.
Very nice, but darn it sounds like it is destroying itself.
Awesome concept about the 48V to the drivers. What you verbally described makes perfect sense! But, how are you cooling your "stock" motors with that much power? And, they are the stock 0.9 motors, right?
I don't know what is the situation like 2 years ago, but right now, people undertaking these challenges will use high-powered motors such as the LDO 42STH48-2804AH motors, running at 48V 2A.
What are your level and mesh settings in your config?
I love the purple extrusions. Where could i buy them?
LDO makes the purple extrusions - in the USA I’d try Printed Solid.
Would you recommend this printer for a beginner and also did you have to upload your own firmware
I’ll be honest this isn’t a good first printer build. It’s pretty complicated and you have to cut and crimp all your own wire. Having said all that check the manual it’s really great and should give you a better idea if you’d be up for it.
Around the 5:20 mark it sounds like a steam train.
Where did you source your aluminium extrusions from, I love that colour!
I was going to ask the same thing
Add the #benchy or whatever tag to the vid so it shows up under that category
edit: #speedboatrace
Is that a time lapse?
Josh: lol
Speed, I am speed
-voron McQueen - 2021
I had to keep looking at the timer to make sure it was still in real time and it wasn’t being sped up 😂
Very cool. How about getting rid of all fans? Using a compressor + hose + expander nozzle seems to be within the rules 😇
for how much do u sell/build one?
wow. crazy and very impressive!!!! i guess tmc5160 will go to upgrade list. btw can you share your print start gcode sequence would like to implement that to my v2 :)
the printer is on drugs lol
I've heard of running the hotend a bit hotter to make up for lack of volumetric flow, but abs at 330°C is next level stupid :D:D
I'm no 3d printing expert but. If you can't do the print with out all that calibration warm up stuff shouldn't that be included in with your time? 🤔 Just saying 🤷♂️
😱👍👍👍😘🇨🇵♥️
Жесть
It’s simple you need to refrigerate your cooling system!
Ничего себе! Вот это да! Но я бы забоялся бы оставлять работать такой 3d-принтер без присутствия человека... А так - невероятно быстро! Но что с качеством?
Should post the github for that toolhead ;D
if you are wondering were are the views from :)
They are from Russia :D
from Pikabu
Create a video showing the drivers, board and motors!
Yours Voron, mine Woron
look impresive. why dont put fan outside and take air intake from them so reduce inertia on the extrusion heder(on X axis)
To get to the next level of speed, why don't you switch to cooling with light tube ducts. Mount the fans somewhere and just attach the tubes to the print head with adapters. That way you're not moving the fans around which would be much heavier than tubes. I haven't seen tubes for this application, but it should be easy enough to make such tubes to blow the air through. Design Prototype Test guy also was planning to do this with compressed air device, but it should work with normal fans too. You could even get much more powerful fans now since they are no longer on the print head. I think it's the next logical step. The only thing moving around should really be the nozzel. Also why haven't you tried remote drive? I tried a remote drive a while back which wasn't too great, all 3d printed parts. I didn't spend much time fine tuning. However if you use 1:1 bevel gears, you shouldn't have to change the gear ratio at all, probably just account a bit for the drive chain. Just some thoughts! let me know what you think.