I Build an All White Voron and it Looks Amazing!
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2023
- I rebuild my old Voron 2.4 and upgraded it with some new gadgets like the KNOMI status screen and the EBB printhead PCB.
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Tools and materials used:
- Ziro Macron Filament (Affiliate Link): amzn.to/3KaNsmg
Discount code (valid until 08/26/2023): ST6UNZVM
- Knomi Status Screen (Affiliate Link): amzn.to/3OoE0OG
- EBB Print Head PCB (Affiliate Link): amzn.to/43DYyaj
- Stealthburner RGB LEDs (Affiliate Link): amzn.to/43TuNCN
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3D Prints:
- Printable Cable Chains by Tom van der Geest: www.printables.com/model/3149...
- Articulated Axolotl by PrintBrothers3D:
www.printables.com/model/2174...
- Voron: vorondesign.com/voron2.4 - Zábava
That G10 (or FR4) build plate is a game changer! I'm printing for years on G10 plates now and I love it. Needs no adhesives whatsoever.
When the plate cools down the parts are sitting loose on the plate.
Remember not to touch the plate with your greasy fingers and you won't have to clean it either. My plate is white too, just to be able to see the first layer better, I mostly print in black ASA
Awesome video mate, love how it turned out! My workspace looks the exact same when I'm working on something haha. Cheers
Love the all white ... ❤
impressive rebuild.. Nice work!
I really like the all white printer! Thanks for the video.
Great video man! Love the white..
I have been using Ziro filament for the past 3 years, it is excellent filament, well wound, you get a sealable Mylar backed bag for storage and a sample of their more exotic filament and also you get some nozzle cleaning filament and it is the real stuff not just some nylon filament, you used to get a card for writing print notes on but the last couple of orders I made none of the rolls came with one and so I scanned one and printed out my own on card.
Looks very cool
All white is so sick, regretting not doing that to my v0
Another underrated channel.
Thanks!
10:20 I'm not calling that good print quality. I know you ran a timelapse that tends to create oozing if retraction is not properly tuned, but here that's in excess.
Keep tuning. I'd recommend you have a look at Ellis' print tuning guide
You are right. I had some flow issues. It was tuned fine but there was a problem with the dragon hot end. The thermester wasn't working properly and the Heatblock got too hot. I had to replace the whole hot end assembly. Now it's working as it should be.
So clean ! I want to build one, but it's too expensive. I have a prusa mk4 I got in kit, was an amazing experience
Building the Voron was a lot of fun. I can only recommend it!
@@Craftknights3D I have a question: is it noisy ? I cannot afford to not get over 50 dB
@@Craftknights3D How noisy it is? I cannot afford to get over 50 dB because I have annoying neighbours. Mk4 is 42-49dB with enclosure and concrete slab
Voron s are usually pretty quiet. I have 3 of them printing near me (2m) and it’s ok. The 2.4 is the quieter one. And it depends on the speed you wanna use. During the night you could slow I’d down.
During the bed mesh it is the loudest. And it’s important to place 3d printers in general on a good support. A nice 2 cm stone and a rubber Matt separate the printer and it’s vibrations pretty well.
I've read that white ABS is recommended for printing parts for the Voron because it may not hold up. Pure ABS is usually black, and only certain colors of ABS have the same strength. White ABS from some makers may not be up to snuff.
I had no issues so far. But let' s See how it holds up.
Pure ABS is actually a ivory white color and slightly transparent. Not a very pretty color though. White and some other colors use pigments to color them, small crystals which are not soluble in the polymer. These weaken the material. Black and most other colors use dyes which are individual molecules soluble in the material and therefore do not weaken the material significantly. It takes a relatively large amount of pigment to make white ABS and I would not recommend printing Voron functional parts using it without testing.
What filament did you use for the parts? @Craftknights3D
@@GeldVerdienenOnline1 For my Enderwire conversion I used PETG for everything. I am attempting to print the Stealthburner hotend mount parts in ABS. The smaller part printed OK, the larger one shows warpage. It might work, I'm trying to print it for the 3rd time right now. I have my Ender 3 in a closed closet, surrounded by a cardboard shield with a towel on top to contain the heat. I moved the print to the center of the bed, when I realised that only one corner of the part had warped. If it doesn't work this time I will give up. If it does print better, I will also attempt to print the X carriage parts in ABS as well.
Im not sure but you should have built frame on glass because its flat and would help achieve that perfect alignment also if u use EBB just go umbilical because those chains can jam sometimes
The EBB is not run through the cable chains. That's why there are only cable chains on the x-axis and not on y.
The cable chain on the x-axis is for the end stops and the one in the back is for the motors.
@@Craftknights3D i see fair but you could still remove chains ;p
@@Basurciyeah. You right. Maybe I will when I Finish the build.
@@valentinBu cant wait to see it finished
You use the wrong Nozzel (Mk8) in the Dragon there belongs a v6 purely!
I since changed that!
Are the printed cable chains OK still?
Suprisingly, yes! They hold up quite well.
only thing I can say different is that you can now order a 2.4 in white 2020 extrusions already, or silver. Also I HIGHLY suggest getting the LDO kit for the 2.4, yes you can get cheaper kits or even self source it. However the LDO kit makes putting it together SO MUCH EASIER, especially when it comes to the wiring. There are 2 guides you follow when building the LDO version, but for the most part you follow the main Voron guide, but check the LDO guide saying what things are different at certain pages. The main difference between the LDO and Main voron guides are how the Electronics bay goes together, basically its flipped 90dg from how the main guide has you do it (there is a good reason for this, better airflow).
Mine is Red Frame with Red/Dark Grey ASA. The only PLA things is the screen cover and one of the skirts needed reprinted and I had already swapped to a red PLA.
I expected that all wires will be white... for the sake of insanity
*Promo sm* 🔥
Voron says not to use white cause it’s brittle, your gonna be rebuilding it.
I actually did some testing before. And while white ABS is not as strong as other ABS, the difference is really not that big.
cool build but that print quality as absolute dogwater wtf... this thing prints worse than the cheapest ender 3 clone in existence
I adjusted it since. It prints very Well now.