Video

I expected that all wires will be white... for the sake of insanity

i bought a filament for like 7 dollars it was good I have some videos of the prints they are good a

Looks very cool

I just got elegoo pla+ having trouble with it warping and leaving thick springs hanging I'm areas

What's stopping you from just using q dremel?

I use elegoo exclusively for PLA as its a great price and it prints really well also easy to get it off Amazon next day 👍

I've bought something similar, though from what mine showed we need to print it using ABS due to heat resistance properties. thus far using PLA is there any issues?

Shhh your gonna drive the price up

I would like to make a cosplay. But i fear some parts will scrape to each other, and at the "contact" paint will be removed. Any idea how to make more durable? More clear coats. Like matt varnish? Also do you have experience with spray putty? Will it scrape off easily? I need smooth surface. Thanks for any help!

Awesome video mate, love how it turned out! My workspace looks the exact same when I'm working on something haha. Cheers

This is so helpful

Why did you put a comma in the price? You should have used a decimal point. Not a comma. Commas separate thousand, millions, billions, etc. Like this 100,000. That is read as One Hundred Thousand. Hope that helps! :)

recently i tried different filament other then the bambu . I was suprised how well sunlu , giantarm, and polymaker pla print. I was especially impressed with the Giantarm silk pla . very shiny and smooth prints. I tried the blue gold and silver. The silver did not print as nice as the gold but very close

I'm still learning about slicers and have only just got my first printer, now I know my way around my printer and fixed a fault from factory I'm able print from start to finish now and I'm just about to get through my first reel of the anycubic standard pla , I have got through approx half a reel of the sunlu matte white pla and they both gave me good results. My printer is the anycubic Kobra 2 neo and apart from a tensioner nut that serves one of the guide wheels for z axis being put the wrong way around my Kobra is performing well, I'm impressed with it so far I was going to send it back until I diagnosed the fault

I bought Elegoo Rapid PLA for my Creality K1C -- It works better than the creality filament. Usually I don't need to gluestick, and the prints adhere nicely to the bed, and it pops off the bed with no residue. Residue should have been part of the test as cleanup is essential too.

This "OK" review could have been GREAT, IF ONLY you used a honeycomb mat that would ACCURATELY show the good cutting performance of this unit. IF I were to take the time to review a laser unit, you can be damn certain that I would want to publish a video that I could be proud of and that would show the best results it was capable of... So there....

Thanks for this, i'll try the acetone route since i have some. I've read many bad reviews about PVB filament so i'm not eager to try it.

Very helpfull, thank you I am new at working with 3D printing so this was a big help.

Does the acetone method work with PLA?

cool build but that print quality as absolute dogwater wtf... this thing prints worse than the cheapest ender 3 clone in existence

How about sand blasting the PLA?

Where did you get that particular torture test piece from? I've seen variants, but not one with spikes.

you can mix uv resin and baby powder too uncle jesse shows this and i do like it

Is that filament tester available for download somewhere?

Geeetech is really cheap stuff I don’t know how you managed to pay that much for it. It’s good for the price but it’s not great.

What is this ABS, PLA, or PETG type of filament the fish one

so whats the tldr?

I always assumed this was more due to the 3d printer and settings used. I don't own a 3d printer.

If i look around atm Geeetech is the cheapest filament you can buy. ABS, Petg and pla are all around 10-12$.

the build plate. never knew of such glue. but looking at the price $35. I'm glad i bought the gold build plate $20 and the prints adhere well and come off with ease.

Do you put the motherboard fan ??

a) the beeping can be turned off under Settings b) print one of the available brackets and move the CR Touch sensor to a zero-Y offset. This is a MASSIVE game changer in terms of first layer quality. c) use a PEI bed. If using a PC bed, remove it before spraying glue.

Does the acetone approach work with PLA?

I have used IIIDmax, polymaker, Jayo, Sunlu, Esun, Ziro, Hatchbox, Paramount, Inland, Eryone, and Novamaker. All were acceptable.

Given that filament is given a range of temps, did you print each at the midpoint of its range or print most of them at the same temperature somewhere in the overlap of all of their ranges? (Obv the PLA+ should be an outlier)

Colours should ideally be matched between brands/price levels as the pigments themselves have their own properties. Black and white can be particularly tricky (e.g. titanium dioxide powder for white).

Do i have to use the cable chain, and is the auxiliary fan necessary??

For the last 2 years I've not spent more than $13/kg for basic PLA or ABS. My only issues are finding good colors, cheap filament is limited. Right now I'm using Elegoo and Sunlu, both a few kg over last month. I will say that a spool is generally used within a few days after being opened. Oh the PLA is on open machines and humidity is 42% in my print area as I type this. I've been in this hobby since 2017 and in the past cheap filament always bit me in the butt. Today I don't think it's much of an issue. If Slant3d gets their production off the ground I may start buying American again.

Will this work with a resin print

Hi, I decided to make a 3D print of an anime figure, I'm torn between ABS and resin, which one is better for printing? And which one is easier to paint? What kind of color can be painted on them? Please help:,))

Another option that I prefer over resin and baby powder is bondo or another similar spot putty mixed with acetone. Dries super fast, is fairly cheap, and then once you sand it all the lines disappear. Afterwards can use the filler primer as a final pass so you don’t need to use as many filler primer and sand and prime passes as they are more expensive.

Why all the extra unnecessary weight on the printhead? (color leds, a screen, pcb's) Upgrades are supposed to make things better, not worse.

so you spray a filler separately from the primer? Would you mind sharing what filler you use? Ive never thought about doing it speerately and normally just use a filler primer. Is is beneficial to do it separately?

Spray spatula is a great idea. WIll try that. Also I will try gently blow torching it.

Does the acetone method work for PLA as well or only ABS? ABS is more expensive. its not viable for me.

I use alot of elegoo filament. IT'S AMAZING and great price. I order a ton of it! ZERO issues on Ender 3 s1 pro and my bambu P1S both love it!

I’ve only been using Elgoo black PLA recently for my business. It has such good bed adhesion I don’t use brims anymore. When you peel it off a textured plate it feels almost like a heat activated adhesive is mixed into the PLA. I’ve performed drop tests with my parts and Elgoo black has far less inter layer weakness than Inland, hatchbox, and Esun. It’s perfectly wound based on the 40 spools I’ve printed so far, compared to inland where I had filament snap or snag 7 times in 60 spools.

WAY too high microphone gain.

I am here hoping to see side by side comparisons of all the no name stuff on Amazon, 5 name brand PLA isn't a good comparison.

I can't find the spatula/spachtel spray, what is it exactly? When I Google it German sites show up.