RE Himalayan - Modifying the front forks fitting PD YSS Fork Emulators to add compression damping.
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2022
- An overview and look at the stock Himalayan fork arrangement. In this video, I modify the fork dampers and install a pair of PD Valve Fork Emulators to improve the front end handling and performance in the rough. These valves were supplied by TEC Bike parts in the UK.
www.tecbikeparts.com/product/... - Jak na to + styl
Can't believe you only had 18 likes before mine. Superb down to earth explanation of how to do the job. Spot on.👍
Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to do this and share. Keep us posted on how you get on with them.
They're called "cartridge emulators" because they emulate the multiple shim valves which provide multiple-rate progressive damping in a fork damper cartridge.
These "emulators" provide dual-rate damping, analogous to the dual-rate compression of typical progressive springs. But even dual-rate damping seems
to makes a big improvement over the stock single-rate damping of damper rods.
The difference over the stock setting is a huge improvement. Highly recommended.
Brilliant! I’ve been longing to try these emulators - now I know exactly how to do it. Many thanks.
Excellent helpful video - time for me to get drilling! Thank you
Thanks for this wonderful video. will be getting my emulators soon, also just finished installing the straight rate springs from yss. subscribed .
Great, let me know how you get on!
You must live within 10 miles of me, so similar riding conditions, we are similar weight, so all your mods are going to be very useful when i get my himalayan. I love my classic 500 but miss the off road stuff, so himmy it is, especially now that all the good stuff is coming through.
Keep in touch Steve, let me know how you get on
Nice explanation. Got the same job coming up for a Versys x-300. Don't think there's too much difference in the forks except on this versys I aim to take out some of the preload.
Very down to earth..pun intended.
Better contact with the early 😊.
I have a sprint 955 and wanting to do the same. Thanks I learnt something watching this.. the Rod holder m8 shaft. Not sure what to use for the 5mm ends but I'll find something.
Good info about the 8mm holes.
I agree about making the emulators adjustable but you'd have to perhaps cut a lug and groove into the spacer and emulator 😮 to stop it turning as the detents would cause bit to rotate instead of adjust.
Given these bikes take pillion and or luggage, the load on the suspension can change markedly and I'm not sure preload is the only adjustment you'd then need to make..
Anyway I learned a few good tricks. Thanks.
Subscribed
Nice film. Re the damper locking tool you made, most people use a tapered broomstick, tap it in with a hammer, pretty much always works.
Good advice 👍
I simply use a 12 mm bolt with two nuts on and a couple of wrench extensions, the 19 mm head fits perfectly in my Suzuki GSX 1100 rods (KYB forks). 😀
Love the Vid...I have the kit coming. Can someone post the TEC and YSS install directions please?
I need a set of those extension caps. I cant find any in the US and no one in the UK is exporting them. Good job on the install.
www.cooperbmotorcycles.co.uk/product/himalayan-suspension-lift-kit/
@@Leafster1973 I was able to get a set from them a few weeks ago, thanks.
Hi, can you write the torque you use for the lower bolt that attache the dump ?
Thank you very much .
Great video. You mentioned a clanking headset, what was the cause of it, and what was the solution? was it the damping, or something else? Thanks.
Hi Rob , clanking headset was simply a loose headset bearing, just needed tightening up
@@Leafster1973 Thanks! will have to see if that's what's going on with mine. The 'bag-of-spanners-thrown-down-stairs' soundtrack to my ride is getting worse!
Great video. Thank you. Similar statement as lipsee100, the YSS fork kit for the Himalayan makes no mention of drilling out the damping rod. I understand why it would be needed to allow the PD valves to do their job. Does anyone have any idea why YSS wouldn’t mention this in their kit instructions?
Additionally, I installed a YSS fork kit in my Interceptor 650. Same instructions…no drilling mentioned either.
Hi, these are YSS valves and within the instructions of the kit I fitted, it clearly states the need to drill out the rod as shown in the video, as without doing so it will over dampen.
I just purchased a YSS kit from Hitchcock’s for my Himalayan. It makes no mention of drilling out the damper rods either. I’m dumbfounded! Without drilling the damper rods, don’t the original damper rod holes still control the fork damping?
thank you for your excellent video! I just ordered the PD valve from Tec. Can you expand the explanation on tuning the PD valve? "valve spring preload" & "valve spring rate"? how can I know what is the best adjustment for me? I'm 157 pounds / 71 kg. In addition, is there a rule of thumb for which oil is suitable for body weight? thank you for the great help
Hi, thanks for your feedback. The instructions supplied with the valves explain the process of adjustment. It's a case of trial and error to find what works for you. I used 15weight fork oil and set the valves in the end with the adjustment of 3.5 turns. This is counted from the moment the valve adjustment screw spring initially makes contact. I made a long magnet rod so I could easily withdraw the springs and valves so I could adjust them without having to take the fork legs off.
@@Leafster1973 thank you Deano, one more question about the amount of oil. in your video at time point 15:32 You specify an amount of 555 milliliters. at time point 15:11 You specify an amount of 455 milliliters. What should you go for? thank's for your great help!
@@gadibob definitely not 555
Jeezs now I know where I went wrong,,let me explain I got the full YSS kit and fitted I did,nt add any holes to the rod or cut down the spacers and I used the 20 oil... I ended up with a very stiff front end,just hope the emulators have survived ok... maybe next I should read the instructions doh!
I bet that's very stiff indeed! Will be good though when you get the piston rods drilled correctly and the preload worked out
The YSS manual (suppled with the kit) had no mention of drilling more holes onto the damper rods. I have a Street Twin 900 and I'm not too happy with the way the front behaves. Yes, its stiff as mentioned by you, even without adding any spring pre-load (via fork cap adjusters) and the front end feels like its tram-lining. Will adding extra preload onto the emulators help? I haven't touched those before I popped them into the fork tubes. Thank You
@@adityadhavale5571 If you think it's stiff without preload, it will just become even stiffer with preload. I don't really understand why people would want it to be stiff; I think the idea is to absorb the bumps and yet have the front wheel keep good contact with the ground?
Were you not supposed to use stiffer springs too? Once you drill the extra holes the stock springs are likely to become too soft.
No, as the valves control the compression damping not the preload. I have fitted stiffer springs because I'm on the heavy side. But if anything the valves increase the stiffness and reduce the softness of the damping especially on rough roads.
Is there anyway to add the preload cap and the fork extender?
Not without some machine work
Hi ,using fork extender makes difficult to remove rear wheel due to increase in fork height how can u manage that?
I don't have any problems removing the rear wheel
HOW! can You be sure that the spacer is placed correctly once you add it like a spices ??? :P
Glue the spacer onto the valve.
Wow this is going overboard IMO. I just changed the fork oil to the weight I preferred and replaced the fork caps with some preload adjusters and it’s perfect 👍🏽
If it works ok for you then fine. I did exactly what you have done which worked fine but I was slamming the front forks and bottoming out on the pot holes when riding at pace on rough roads. Since fitting the Emulators I don't have the problem anymore, no more bottoming out and the front wheel grip in the mud is much better IME. My riding mate says I'm riding much faster in the dirt too. Money well spent
@@Leafster1973 yeah I find the Himalayan to be just right now. No bottoming out, I even jump the little Himalayan and don’t bottom out. It’s just right for me now. I run 15w in the front and spring preload adjusters to set my sag properly turned in about an inch and 1/2 in. It rides great now. Before it was a bit mushy.
I also raised the rear suspension with shorter links from Hitchcocks.
If it works for you then great! That’s more work than I feel is necessary. I’m only 180lbs though.
@@mikerobinson8734 Compression damping takes it to another level 👍
@@Leafster1973 That’s essentially what a thicker fluid will do. You can either change the hole size the fluid passes through or change the viscosity of the fork fluid.
Thicker fluid = more compression damping.
It may slow rebound damping a bit but that is easily balanced with more spring preload.
@@mikerobinson8734 I understand. I tried the thicker oil too, but then it became too stiff. The beauty with the valves is they can be tuned to allow the forks to stay firm on the mild roads and then soak up the big hits.