The whole point of breaking in is to the make sure the moving engine parts settles in properly. Even tho all the parts inside the engine are designed and made with such tight tolerances there might be some mishap or slight uneven surfaces so during the initial first kilometres you shouldn't rev the engine and keep it slightly above the minimum running RPM to let the parts to grind against each other and naturally flatten out all the unevenness so during this period you should never rev the engine up to much because it defeats the whole point and can lead to those uneven surfaces causing minor scratches on the across surface, which will stay there till the end of that engines lifetime
Very curious to see your next video and hear what you think. I have about 3500kms with the TEC cam in my Himi and I love the difference! It's snappier, gives more when you need that little extra and the cam has added more smiles per mile than expected.
Thank you for another lovely video, Ben. Is it feasible to fit the TEC camshaft on a BS3 Carburettor Himmy with 50k kms on the ODO? What are some of the things to look out for while doing such mods on older bikes which have seen some tough miles?
Hi Ben. Did you put in new valve guide while changing your valve? I tried to source valve guide but RE don't sell for Himalayan. Any idea on this as the guide they currently use for leth work is the ones from Classic series which keep making a racket after head work is done!
Thanks Ben for your quick reply. What about people who have to work on their valve guide but don't want to shellout on a complete new cylinder head as advised by RE workshop. And thanks on the FuelX info @@ONTWOWHEELSBEN
I agree on a horrible sounding engine 😂 unfortunately mine is also making some louder noise when hot Still dont know what it is i hope it goes away with an oil change...
Good to see that things are going smoothly Ben. I think you have the right idea on break-in, and I guess we'll see how the next step goes.
Thanks for following and always sharing your thoughts Mr Bruce . ❤️
The whole point of breaking in is to the make sure the moving engine parts settles in properly. Even tho all the parts inside the engine are designed and made with such tight tolerances there might be some mishap or slight uneven surfaces so during the initial first kilometres you shouldn't rev the engine and keep it slightly above the minimum running RPM to let the parts to grind against each other and naturally flatten out all the unevenness so during this period you should never rev the engine up to much because it defeats the whole point and can lead to those uneven surfaces causing minor scratches on the across surface, which will stay there till the end of that engines lifetime
Nice little review of the TEC Cam which I've just ordered for my 411 based in part on your series of videos on it. Cheers mate - ride safe!!
Very curious to see your next video and hear what you think. I have about 3500kms with the TEC cam in my Himi and I love the difference! It's snappier, gives more when you need that little extra and the cam has added more smiles per mile than expected.
Exact same experiences and a little more ( interesting too ) . Next video
Use some polytron metal conentrate. It will significantly reduce valve noise.
No , I shall keep the oil running clean . Also viscosity modifiers are not 100 % fool proof formula yet .
Doesn't tec suggest 0.08 in and 0.23 out? At least that's what the install instructions indicated on my cam.
Curious why you feel reduced duration (higher valve clearance) gives a better running engine.
A slightly free exhaust valve makes for a much more FREEER running engine. Better throttle response .
Thank you for another lovely video, Ben. Is it feasible to fit the TEC camshaft on a BS3 Carburettor Himmy with 50k kms on the ODO?
What are some of the things to look out for while doing such mods on older bikes which have seen some tough miles?
no you cant fit it on a BS3. it is only for the FI variants
@@ONTWOWHEELSBEN thank you for the advice
Top speed Video!!!
No change in top speed , but the acceleration to 120 is faster . Will record a video soon and share
Hi Ben. Did you put in new valve guide while changing your valve? I tried to source valve guide but RE don't sell for Himalayan. Any idea on this as the guide they currently use for leth work is the ones from Classic series which keep making a racket after head work is done!
There is no need to change a valve guide for a cam swap . My valve train was in excellent condition ( courtesy to changing engine oil at 3000 kms )
Thanks Ben for your quick reply. What about people who have to work on their valve guide but don't want to shellout on a complete new cylinder head as advised by RE workshop. And thanks on the FuelX info @@ONTWOWHEELSBEN
is that reise trialR 120/90-17 you are using?
Yes
Which oil would you prefer bro amsoil 10w50 are 15w50 which one is best for Himalayan
10w50 dirt bike oil anyway
@@ONTWOWHEELSBEN Is this oil used for both highways and off road rides ... Suggest me
Was just about to do my valve check, what hand guards are you running?
Bark buster VPS with generic metal spines
👍👍👍👍👍
Which exhaust can you please share the link
devilevo.com/products/devil-evolution-slip-on-exhaust-w-link-pipe-for-royal-enfield-himalayan-part-no-d2-1l-520-mm-extended-body
Can you share the link of this cam?
TeC bike parts web site
@@ONTWOWHEELSBEN not able to select INDIA in the country dropdown
I agree on a horrible sounding engine 😂 unfortunately mine is also making some louder noise when hot
Still dont know what it is i hope it goes away with an oil change...
Do you run a TeC cam too ?
@@ONTWOWHEELSBEN yess i just installed it 100km with the tec cam
thats why its a bit worrying
@@tftg-travel1902 nothing to worry. The sound is something you live with