sv650 fork internals (stock vs emulators and drilled rods)
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2021
- detail on how emulators work: www.racetech.com/page/title/e...
how to cut preload spacers: sonicsprings.com/catalog/dampe...
svrider discussion on 6 holes vs 4 big holes: www.svrider.com/threads/3-8-d...
diy-ed damper rods: www.mad8v.com/products/damper...
You covered it well. I could have done with this vid a bout 4 years ago when I first started pulling racing SV forks apart.
same :P
Thank you for your video!
With the addition of the emulator and drilling out and plugging of the breather hole, what volume and weight of fork oil is recommended? 20w?
Great video Man!
Glad you liked it!
k-tech linear springs from the UK are made to match the original springs in length but in various spring rates so if you don't fit emulators you don't need to cut the spacers down.
Spacers take like... seconds? Minutes at most. Pvc pipe and a pvc cutter
Thx for the info
Mind me asking if the procedure is same for gen 3? Plugging up that rebound that little hole?
I've got some emulators installed 15W oil 95mm oil level but no modifications to the damper rod yet.
yep, same same as 2g
I have to rebuild the Showa forks on my '89 Honda that has damping rod forks. If I'm going to do that, I thought I, may as well upgrade them with progressive springs and emulators while they're apart. The thing is, while looking for parts, I found a brand new pair of Showa forks for an '04 Hornet CB600F. These are exactly the same dimensions as mine, and even use the same brake calipers, only the mudguard mounts are different.... externally. Internally they're much more modern, adjustable cartridge forks. My long-winded question is: Will the cartridge forks be much better performing than the rebuilt originals? Oddly, as they're not coming from Honda, the price for the new pair is only less than $100 more than the cost of parts to do the rebuild myself. All I'd have to do with the new ones is fit them, and get a Hornet mudguard. In light of that, I know it makes more sense to get the new pair, but I'm really curious if there would be a noticeable difference while riding?
"progressive springs": ewwww just get straight rate springs that are correct for your weight
89 honda.... hawk gt?
I dont think the 599's forks are much better (still squishy and still need to be rebuilt/resprung). but then you can run the dual rotor wheel from the hornet so there's that...
f3 forks might also be an option
@@Mad8vCycles it's a CBR400RR NC23.
I'm looking at '94-'97 VFR750F forks at the mo, as they're cartridge, and the caliper mounts, spindle size, etc. is the same... in fact the VFR uses the same calipers and discs.
Sweet! Those are pretty rare
@@Mad8vCycles It's been sat for a long time, but it was put away in good order, new oil, tyres and plugs, with only 25K miles on it, so it seems worthwhile to bring it back to life.
Why are my springs so much longer? My preload spacers are only about 2 inches long (2nd gen naked, stock)
probably cause these are 1g?
err actually, these are highter spring rate (.90) so they're different
Thanks. I thought the fork lower in the background looked like a 2nd gen. I replaced my stock springs for 9.5 and they’re also long
So is it better to get imulaters or swap with a GSXR front?
It's significantly cheaper and easier to do springs and emulators. Gsxr front would still need to be sprung to your weight and comes with a few annoying tradeoffs
That what I want to know.
Annoying things to deal with for gsxr:
Depending on year/model you might end up with legs a bit too short, or with losing steering lock. And you will have to deal with setting up a speed sensor. And have to get a weird risered clipon of some kind (or the clipons will rub the fairing)
My bikes a 02. Mint. In a garage with crazy low miles. I want to keep it as stock as possible because it's so fricken clean. I'll get imulaters and spring kit. I had to paint it from that old yellow puke color.
Hi, where can we get those emulators? For my 250ax
Racetech
if the seals are in a decent condition (not cracked etc) then you could try a seal mate (or you can make your own one out of a smooth plastic like a drink bottle and sand the edges smooth with ultra fine sandpaper) I have used these successfully in the past.
but if you have heard of seal savers/shock socks they are neoprene covers that protect the seal area I now fit them to my bicycles and my SV and ever since I have had no problems with leaking forks since because no dirt can ever get in I had to open one for the annual inspection i popped the dust cap up and it was immaculate in there not a spec of dirt in just under 2 years of all weather riding.
Sitting does more damage to seals from what ive found. When they're not worked they dry out and leak
Great video, however, the rebound damping is not influenced by the emulator so you should not weld up your rebound orifice. When you purchase valve emulators as part of a kit the usually supply the correct weight of damping oil to make the rebound damping appropriate for the supplied spring rate and preload spacer which is likely to be shorter by the depth of the emulator,
mut also influenced by the length of the new spring and the preload required on it. The emulators only influence compression damping, so your rebound orifice remains vital.
im not sure that's accurate. primarily because the traxxion rods (drop in replacement) did not have the hole. also, the community has pretty much been filling those holes forever with good results.
the emulator absolutely DOES have a rebound hole in it (otherwise none of this would work at all since it sits above the damper rod).
im going to see if i can find a racetech instruction sheet from a set (should have one somewhere)
Instructions say not to touch the top hole I thought
The little hole gets filled
@@Mad8vCycles mine set of instruction must be different for my model, mine say the below…
7 - Rebound Holes - Unless directed, do not add or enlarge the rebound holes (near the top of the damping rod) and leave their edges sharp.
Adjustable Rebound models that require brazing may need work in this area. See "Special Valving Instructions for this Kit" in Product Search.
See the last paragraph?
@@Mad8vCycles yep I don’t have rebound adjustment so that explains it