If you don't want to purchase the seal bullet that he uses at 12:35, you can put a few layers of packing tape on the lip and that will make the edge less sharp. As far as driving the seal in, the bluepoof guide that he linked shows how to make a seal driver with a PVC pipe. Alternatively, I had a friend that used his old seal on top of the new one and drove it in by hitting it with a socket extension and rubber mallet. Probably the riskiest way to go but it worked for his bike
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I'm about to put SKF low friction seals in my Gen 3 racer and just wanted a refresher course. I pulled my old gen 2 forks apart about four years ago but I've got a good forgetter on my shoulders lol. Luckily I got put straight on using a rattle gun on the damper rod bolt last time round. I did the same as you for the tightening of, just one quick blast on the trigger and it's all done.
@@natekerx85 Howdy, well no installation issues and I've done a whole racing season on them with no leaks (Im in the Southern hemisphere) but performance wise its such a small difference that you dont notice it as a mod. They are more expensive though.
Was really helpful, did mine today and wasn't hard at all! I didn't have the syringe but draw a line on the 120mm mark to a ziptie and measured it that way.
Everything spins... even w brookstick and clamping in a triple. So... tight is the best ive ever been able to do. You know i LIKE the torqued to spec thing...
@@Mad8vCycles yea, i generally just tighten it up enough that it won't leak all over when filling. After I get the cap on, I usually go as hand tight as I can get it with an allen. Had too many nightmare situations drilling rounded ones out. Granted, that was before I saw the light of the impact wrench. How much misery could I have saved myself if I would have bought one five or more years ago! hah.
If you don't want to purchase the seal bullet that he uses at 12:35, you can put a few layers of packing tape on the lip and that will make the edge less sharp. As far as driving the seal in, the bluepoof guide that he linked shows how to make a seal driver with a PVC pipe. Alternatively, I had a friend that used his old seal on top of the new one and drove it in by hitting it with a socket extension and rubber mallet. Probably the riskiest way to go but it worked for his bike
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I'm about to put SKF low friction seals in my Gen 3 racer and just wanted a refresher course. I pulled my old gen 2 forks apart about four years ago but I've got a good forgetter on my shoulders lol. Luckily I got put straight on using a rattle gun on the damper rod bolt last time round. I did the same as you for the tightening of, just one quick blast on the trigger and it's all done.
How did those SFK seals work out? Wondering how they compare to OEM, seems like everyone hates all balls
@@natekerx85 Howdy, well no installation issues and I've done a whole racing season on them with no leaks (Im in the Southern hemisphere) but performance wise its such a small difference that you dont notice it as a mod. They are more expensive though.
Great video, will definitely help my suspension rebuild!
Cheers for making this matey
Was really helpful, did mine today and wasn't hard at all! I didn't have the syringe but draw a line on the 120mm mark to a ziptie and measured it that way.
glad to help!
I am interested how you set the oil level without the syringe oil level?
You could probably do it by volume... but no idea
@@gratianpetreus819 480ml
Great job thanks for this dude. Really needed this video
Glad it helped
Nice tutorial. Just bought a SV650 that is soft as hell at the front with max preload. Time to change the oil.
probably needs springs as well. stock is sprung for a tiny light rider
Thanks for doing this video. So helpful.
I lol'ed when you said "... and this is a really, really nasty fork" and "the world's most disgusting seal"
Nice vid Mr. S
it was like the honey badger of forks. so nasty
Great content! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Glad it was helpful!
Super video, thanks.
I just changed my fork oil. Wish I could have seen your video before doing the deed as I should’ve changed the seals. Oh well, next service interval
sorry, i tried. but like i said i ended up bailing on the first video because i realized the fork was bent
This man is a king among men.
weird take...
20nm/14.5ftlb on the cylinder bolt
Reassuring to know "we're just going for tight" on the damper rod bolt.
Everything spins... even w brookstick and clamping in a triple. So... tight is the best ive ever been able to do. You know i LIKE the torqued to spec thing...
@@Mad8vCycles yea, i generally just tighten it up enough that it won't leak all over when filling. After I get the cap on, I usually go as hand tight as I can get it with an allen. Had too many nightmare situations drilling rounded ones out. Granted, that was before I saw the light of the impact wrench. How much misery could I have saved myself if I would have bought one five or more years ago! hah.
Is this your first video?
probably not, but i know i screwed up framing
Watch a pro video, and learn what you did wrong. Learn from your mistakes. Keep learning, like me 72 and still learning.