Building the ERCF v2, Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder by Siboor. Part 2 - Filament block construction.
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- This video series shows how to build an Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder known as the ERCF v2 for your 3d printer. In this video, I'm using a Siboor kit that comes with a CNC 80T gear. You will need to 3d print your own parts with this kit. The kit is organized really well with a toolbox of very high quality parts. It even comes with a BTT BigTreeTech EBB MMB Mainboard and 2209 drivers.
This video is part 2 which shows how to build the filament blocks.
Important links:
- Siboor Kits can be found here at a discount of $15: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235544...
Note: if you order with a Voron 2.4 or SwitchWire 3d printer, Siboor will provide an additional $15 discount.
Important documentation:
ERCF V2 Github for documentation and stl files: github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Com... - Věda a technologie
I like how you don’t put annoying montage music in these videos. This is nice. Thank you.
Glad you like them! I stopped doing that about a year ago or so. It started to annoy me as well!
I second that! No cheezy background garbage is excellent.
@@NostrilDumbness Thank you!
Thank you =)
I got my Siboor ERCF V2 kit few days ago but my printing job still continue. But I "on fire" to build it...
Nice to see how kit works. I also taken that kit because it contains all needed stuff, what I think I want to use. Whole system.
And when I make order there wasn't many options too. Price wasn't also that big.
Your videos maybe save lots of time when I start put parts together.
So far, it's a very nice kit. I'm happy with it. I just need to complete building this. Thank you!
Thx in advance for the video...I'm planning on installing this on my 2.4 and video walkthroughs are always helpful!
Glad it's helpful! I have not decided yet, my v2.4 or the v0.2..........
Those pesky T-nuts! Another great video. Keep em coming :)
Thank you!
I currently assmbling the Siboor ERCF V2 kit. I batch printed all 8 Base_xN at once and for some reason the support fell out before the second half of dovetail completed. Could of been due to heat or vibration. Reprinted them this time one by one successfully. However the 3 bearings are loose - will use a tiny drop of CA glue to fix that.
The Filament_Path_xN came out good, but the 6mm magnets were tight, 5.9mm drill bit to open them up, had to use CA glue as it cracked along layer between base trap hole and magnet hole. Inserting the bowden fittings were easier than you show in the video.
The base traps with set screws are yet to break (fingers crossed they don't)
Regarding assembling the bowden fittings and Blue clips - I removed the black rubber o-ring(is easily removed and put the fitting and clip between a pair 250mm Knippex pliers wrench as they close with flat parallel jaws(They are sort of cross between channellocks and a adjustable spanner). Alternatively small bench vice could do the same. re-attach undamaged o-ring.
Interesting. It seems our printers are tuned differently. I suppose thats not suprising. For me, those base traps with set screws were a real problem, but the screwwless traps were just fine. I need to purchase one of those Knippex pliers. I'm working on the buffer now. I can't wait to get this thing working. I wish you a very successful build!
FWIW, the Thumper Blocks in the folder "Recommended Options" use an M4 nut in the filament trap. They're less prone to breaking (or disappearing into the void under your build bench like the little traps). Just be sure to use the wider version.
Thnk you for this tip. I did not realize that. I'll go and have another look.
A small allen wrench (the L-shaped ones) works well for pushing the nuts in the extrusions. If the hole is deep, your phone flashlight shining down the hole helps with alignment.
Good tip. Thank you!
@09:30 Like a lot with the ERCF I had to redesign the _Catch_ to be as short as possible, thinner, and almost solid with an undersized hole in them no Filament would pass through - I then assembled everything together, partially inserted a Filament from the Spool Side for it to create the proper distance between the gears, depressed the Top Hat, and with that position held firmly drilled from the side opposing the inserted Filament through the Channel and the Catch using a 2mm Drill - Perfect Hole the Filament will pass through without issues when depressed and be held in place when released *_AND_* unlike the Setscrewed ones can still be pulled out with enough force if necessary.
@15:55 Expect for the small Servos to kick the Bucket quite often... I think went through three of them until I've had enough and designed myself a Large Servo alternative with a spring-loaded Cam System instead of a Lever operated one - Strong enough it blew one of my Sidelatches ( the ones that secure the Folding Section to the Static one ).
I have hopes with v2 I can avoid much of that. But let's see. I will soon know the answer to that.
ordered sovol sv08, and looking at ERCF v2, as possible upgrade :) btw, great video :)
Good choice! Thank you very much!
Thank you for your outstanding content! Truly great.
Is there an enraged primate nozzle changer. I'd like to see that.
There should be! Thank you very much!
what advantages does this have over the camaelion? Seems so much more involved
Thats a great question. Once I get some time with this, I'll post something and let you know.
Thank you for taking on the challenge before I do. Would ASA filament work for this or is ABS the only way to go.
Yes, ASA is perfectly fine for all Voron parts, actually better UV resistance which is never a bad thing.
I would expect ASA to work well. Possibly better as it's a little less prone to warp.
I noticed that your end bypass didn't line up with the end of the extrusion by about 3mm (like mine), and then in the next shot it is all lined up. Did you have to shuffle the gearbox and filament blocks down to get it to fit?
Honestly, I don't remember it being a problem. I might not have had all the blocks fitted and tightened down yet? I just had a look. It all seems aligned now. That very last part, the leg with the filament bypass, when I look at the end of the extrusion, it's still about 0.5 to 1mm longer than the extrusion itself. But, I'm not worried about it. I don't believe it will have any impact on the operation of the filament changer.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I rebuilt it and tried to force every filament block toward the gearbox before tightening down but I'm still left with a gap of about 1mm. I don't fancy sanding down both sides of each filament block! I used a flat build plate so the sides are pretty flat already.
@@alidaf-YT I'm sure it's fine as-is
clicked like and subscribed
Thank you very much!