Affordable Filament Recycling Pt. 2: DIY Shredder + Extruder
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- čas přidán 11. 05. 2024
- This video is part 2 of my attempt to build an affordable filament recycling setup.
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And we're back for part two of my series where I try to build an affordable and repeatable system for turning all of my filament waste into useful filament.
The first video really took off and I was thrilled to see that you guys care as much about this project and about the potential environmental impact of it as I do.
Since the last video, I've been hard at work, and I have a lot of hard won lessons and updates to share. Some good, some bad, and some very bad...
Thanks to my electrician friend, Muhammad, for his help. If you need electrical work done in central Israel, drop him a message: 0509028896
PART 3 OUT NOW!
• Affordable Filament Re...
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🎥 IN THIS VIDEO: 🎥
00:00 Introduction
00:48 Frame Work & Welding Lessons
04:07 Changing The Motor Setup
08:51 A Glimmer Of Hope
15:57 The Extruder
22:35 The Hopper
25:50 Sorting Plastic
27:20 The Next Video & Outstanding Challenges
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👉 Part 1 of My Filament Recycling Project: • Affordable Filament Re...
👉 Recycling Failed 3D Prints with a DIY Filament Extruder - Artme3D: • Recycling Failed 3D Pr...
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THANK YOU for watching, and for all of your helpful comments. Let me know what you think of the video. We're in this together!
What is recently happening with this connected community (especially in this series which is almost "Teamwork"), absolutely is crazy and restores "faith in humanity" 💯
- i absolutely love it, also a huge thanks to every single one and to you for starting this❤
I just ordered a MK2.5 version. I ordered the version with both screws so I can switch between materials.
@@soundsparkawesome, backup screw doesnt hurt and i probably would get one too... i dont want to ruin your excitement, but are you aware that you dont need to switch screw for another polymer material ?
@3DWolfEngineering The 2 screw option gives one each of low and high compression. Accordig to Artme3d, low compression for many pellet types and high compression for regrind and some pellet types.
@@soundsparkoh sorry, thought it was 2x the same... musthave missed that part...
with low and high compression... then its a must have
Dude. I felt that pain of having to scrap 80% of a build because of a fundamental flaw in the design/process. I've been there before. And while that moment of grief is kinda devastating, once you get past it, it becomes so much more satisfying when your second attempt starts to come together even better than your original vision. Props to powering through it!
As an amateur hobby game dev, that's like half my process.
Thanks for your supportive words! I really appreciate it.
I often say that I wish maker channels would show mistakes and missteps more often, because it is truly part of the process. Failing to show that can give viewers a warped perception of what working on projects like this are really like.
Agreed. Leaving aside the fact that it really helps to see what the rest of us might run into when it comes time to replicate (because I'm definitely building one of these things when I get more workshop space), it shows a real strength of character. That makes it a lot easier to trust what they're saying, and makes projects like this feel more attainable.
This is what making is all about. Somebody trying something new, not being afraid to fail, and getting support from the community.
The easiest and cheapest welding system is "Flux-Cored Wire Welding." It's as easy as MIG and very similar in handling, but you do not need any gas bottles for it. It uses a special welding wire where the flux, which is normally on the outside of a welding stick, is housed inside the wire. You can get these welders as cheap as stick welders, but the wire is more expensive than that from a MIG machine. However, it's ideal for hobby welding.
^ This. And be wary of people and manufacturers confusing MIG (Metal Inert Gas), with Flux Core Wire welding. Anyone who uses the two terms interchangeably either doesn't know what they're doing, or are victims of the confusion themselves.
Yep, flux-core is the way to go if you want cheap, easy, and accessible. I would be a little suspicious of the 3 in 1 machines that are flux/tig/stick. Generally a single use machine is a safer bet for both funtion and reliability. If you were in the US I would recommend the titanium flux core welder from harbor freight, but I'm not sure what your options are in Israel.
The only issue with the majority of self shielded flux core wire, is that they are not structurally rated, and will only hold about as good as a slightly deeper penetrating 6013
@@adriandawkins5500 6013 is the easier rod to start with, but it's not deep penetrating. That would be 6010 and 6011. Journeyman most commonly use the 6013 for sheet metal or something like a body panel just like flux core. Flux core also comes in different tensile strengths like arc rods and can achieve the same 70,000 lbs per square inch as 70xx rods.
I absolutely love your ability to take criticism, with that alone your going to do great things. Don't quit being you. I also really like the realness of failure and admission, two things you don't see on CZcams much.
Great series! Love the information and the honest look at the REAL PROCESS and JOURNEY! That's the most important part that so many others just edit out. What is there to learn from that!? You did it perfectly!
Thanks for this comment! It is so reassuring!
I'm loving this project. Reminds me alot of how projects typically go for me. 😁
Awesome segment on therapy to segway to the sponsor based on your own experience. Glad that it's helping your growth!
BetterHelp is problematic because they have been misbehaving and fined on the most important aspects including qualification and privacy, selling the most personal data. I hope that better competitors will replace them including as sponsors.
But everything you said about why therapy matters still stands, especially in a creative & engineering field like 3D printing where a large % are neurodivergent like with ADHD, ASD, bipolar and have to cope with an unaccommodating world.
good comment. I would like to specify that it is personal HEALTH and MEDICAL data. Under European law (GDPR) this falls under sensitive data. This is not to be taken lightly. This type of data can do more than just identify you, this can ruin people's lives, this can compromise people's actual security.
Privacy is your first layer of security. The less they know the less they can compromise you.
Yeah. I can give a little slack but... BetterHelp is _not_ a good company to sponsor or associate yourself with.
Yes it made me chuckle, as for an easy dryer ,box and a reptile warming pad.
If you have a klipper core xy you can get the calibration flower that vector 3d sells and do a skew correction along with the file you get his math formula page to type all measurents in then copy and paste what you need into your cfg. That is one of the best ways to get accurate measurements in and out
Cnc kitchen has a great guide on using the califlower. The key is to use shrink factor for different materials. If he is only having problems with one material, this is a better solution.
The calculator has instructions for marlin as well as slicer tweaks for compensation.
Really helped me tune my machine. Just need to remember to recalibrate new brands and materials.
Would it work with a bed slinger
@@Speedgaming802 absolutely, it also lets you compensate for skew in your frame. However if you run marlin you need to compile the firmware, not too difficult if you have a common machine. Then you have plenty of examples.
I wasn't sure if it would work on a bedslinger I haven't tried it so I never suggested what I didn't know but good to know it does work and it does help to get the measurements right in and out
Regarding drying the ground product, you should be able to loop screen mesh around used spools and then just toss those in your filament dryers. You could even just print a mesh wall to connect two sides of a Bambu spool (or other splittable spool)
Big, complicated projects are always full of mistakes. It's just how you learn.
Thank you for sharing where you went wrong and how you fixed it so others can learn with you!
Thanks for watching!
wouldn't aluminum extrusions be sufficient for the whole frame and stand?
i mean if they can hold up for CNC machines, wouldn't they be able to hold up shredding plastics?
That was my thought also
I would use slotted angle, no welding required, easy to reconfigure if you have a change of plans etc
Loving this series! Everything I’ve seen on this always says it’s just not affordable to recycle filament. Thanks for bringing us along with you on the journey.
Glad to hear you will be getting a Mig welder. Remember nothing is truly lost if you have learnt from it.
True
I think it would be interesting to explore a hand cranked shredder, could save a fair bit of money. Or maybe a DIY "gearbox" using old bicycle gears/chain. Not sure if it would be strong enough but they are cheap to buy or even free from old bikes if it does work. Maybe this bike gearbox could be powered by a drill/driver?
white vinger strips the galvanised coating of the steel if you can soak the parts in the vinger
leaves a nice clean none toxic part to weld too
New slogan is awesome 😊
I would like to see the drying costs as some viewers may be new to 3d printing and may not have all of the tools and knowledge that more experienced makers have.
A great video, thanks!
For the drying: a close-meshed sieve at the bottom of a tube through which a mass of warm and preferably dry air flows through should do the trick. I do not know your habits, but if you were making pizza, you normally waste a lot of "nice dry and warm air" from your oven, which could be ideal for drying filament. Or perhaps a cupboard that closes tightly and contains a dehumidifier would also be good. I am pretty sure you will find a nice solution.
I find that printing in resin can be a way to test fit better instead of fdm. Although it can be more brutal and is a little more difficult to work with it was way more accurate. Love the series!
Terrific video! I appreciate your honesty over mistakes and lack of skills/knowledge. Failing is the best way to learn! I designed and built 5 iterations (so far) of a camera motion control rig, and it is only by trying out and then improving a design that you really get to understand what makes it work. I’m really looking forward to your success with this project, as it is the next thing I would like to build, and I really need to do something with the 30kg of failed prints I have.
For the artme3d extruder, print and install the dial gauge mod for it to help you dial in the tolerances on the filament.
Oh snap on it!
@@thenextlayerIts on printables to save you the search. Cant wait to see this project come together.
While watching this video and part 1, the one thing I kept thinking was moisture. Im glad you mention it at the end of this video. Does moisture damage the filament in anyway? My thinking is if you have a backlog of scraps from a year ago, even if you dry them out the plastic may be damaged and unusable. Im new to 3D printing so Im not entirely sure this is even a concern.
In short I love that you document your failures. An addition that I would like to see is a close to accurate amount of time invested, both including your failures and assuming all goes well how much time it would take to complete said project.
You can also incorporate a chain drive between the shredder and the output of the gearbox. Hub sprockets and chain are cheap and readily available. Also if your VFD is struggling at low speeds, increase the gain compensation. You might want shoot an email to VFD manufacturer as the naming and setting of the parameter varies between different brands.
yes, loved the slogan
I plan to order recycled PLA in bulk (100kg+), extruding it, and printing parts for worthy causes, such as schools, learning groups, toys for disadvantaged kids, Ukraine, etc.
Good on ya!
For mixing the filament scrap. If I build one of these, I'm going to use the recycled filament on things where I don't care about the color as much anyway.
Amazing vid and interesting project, I think you can use a regular oven on low to dry the PLA scraps.
This is something that I had to learn from after 2 projects I did very early on where I learned most of the parts were incompatible with one another and was basically just sitting on a bunch of junk that couldnt do anything. The best part of the experience is tho that you learn ALOT from those experiences. I have now gotten to the point where I realize and could see in your video when you are rushing into a project. Getting the right parts for a job can sometimes be more work than actually making the thing. It is always important to analyze each step and ensure you are getting the right parts before you buy. Good news is here that you learned a lot of valuable lessons and about a lot of different things. I try to teach friends about this issue but most of the time if this never happens to you once, then it's basically inevitable to happen sometime. Keep the parts around and save them for a project you do in like 2 years from now. I will be randomly doing a project and come across old parts I never used sometimes and just think "SCORE" when I have it and dont need to buy it after the object has been sitting on a shelf for years.
I can relate to this. I tried to build an ERCF, printed all the parts and when the non-printed parts arrived I realised I printed all the parts for a V2 kit and brought a V1 kit.
Glad you found a great gearbox for an absolute steal, though a specific reduction ratio favoring high torque is necessary for a given output. I was on the hunt for a very long time but finally scored a 1:745 reduction gearbox for my project and it even came with salvage but functional controllers. I looked at the ebay specials but couldn't find a gearbox that looked like it would do the job I needed and still come in as 'affordable'. This box spins at 6 rpm on the low end, but can handle all the pressure of spinning a 20lb injection screw under load.
And yes, the burnished "built Sh!t" logo board was noticed and gets my full approval. 👍
For printing geometrically accurate parts, there's a few requisites that need to be addressed with engineering-grade materials. A true heated chamber for filled filaments is a must to avoid warping. There's also an inherent amount of shrink involved with FDM (and even resin, which I'll get to in a moment), but needs to be accounted for in addition to machined-equivalent clearances in metal (imperial is typically .001" or .02mm). Due to the way most FDM printers operate, there's an inherent amount of 'slop' in the travel motions that will transfer directly into the part(s). It's hard to calculate into part design other than running belt-less machines for optimum accuracy, but that generally necessitates rather expensive commercial//industrial equipment. I typically prototype my parts with photopolymer resin printers and use them to cast tougher parts with more suitable materials; composites, two part tooling urethane, etc. When done correctly, I can hit very good accuracy and have usable parts for ~80% right from the resin, but again I typically prefer to mold and cast hard duty parts. With resin printing, despite what you'll read, you Can get geometrically accurate parts, but your results will definitely benefit from extra effort in the model prep. I've been requested very often to write all this into a technical novel, which I may get around to one day, but time dictates other needs at present. I do have a blog that has quite a lot of it written down already but isn't organized like a written book or white paper would be.
In this case the journey is more important than the destination. Being a trail blazer is all about falling in the pitfalls so that the people behind you don't.
What better outcome than hitting all of them and leaving the way clear for all the people behind you.
Love that metaphor!
I loved seeing you using this setup because it is the same I want to have when I get the money.
@thenextlayer their are cheep flux mig welders that work well for small projects like this. But yes looking at the first one just before this; yhea cleaning was a big issue.
VFD is good to have anyway on top of the mechanical gearbox. Now you can drive it both forward and backwards if something gets stuck.
Another possibility for the frame is to simply use extruded aluminium. While it is a bit more expensive, it is much easier for everyone to use.
and more consistent, and easier to assemble using standardized brackets, and possibly easier to source worldwide. I don't know about "locally", though.
I forgot to mention but it would actually be cheaper, if you include buying a welding machine into the cost of the original frame idea
Not to add insult to injury....but VFD stands for Variable Frequency Drive 😊
Love your work J - keep at it 👍
Yeah… what did I call it…?!
@thenextlayer vertical, I think. No biggie 😊 (and I could have heard wrong!)
Thank you for the videos. Really enjoying this series 👍
I think there are some ways to do this very smartly. First to consider, is that the plastic can be melted many times without consiquence as long as the plastic is not overheated. I think that the "can only melt it so many times" thing is a myth. The Brothers Make you tube guys proved this through testing.
On the nozzle end of things; one thing to do is to melt the recycled plastic twice. Once to a large diameter without regard for consitancy or hydroscopic quality. Then take the large diameter filament, and chop it into pellets. On the second round, the fact that it is in pellets will allow for easier qualtiy managment. And it can be mixed with new plastic pellets.
Another thing to consider, is to use a really large diameter nozzle to make 5/16" x 4" mini glue gun sticks.
I imagine this project isn't great for the algo, which I know loves hyper focused channels, but got to say I'm loving it. I really enjoy when makers venture outside their comfort/expertise zone a bit. FWIW, yes to totalling up actual spend and also doing cost to recreate without waste. We have all gone through that "oops, that was a waste" and it's just one more layer of transparency to share what it is.
oh... and yeah I'd TOTALLY tell you to go get a wire feed welder of any kind (US$100). YesWelder is good for hobbyists (like me) but there are a lot brands now. Harbor Frieght (US), etc... Stick welding is good for fixing farm equipment., but not really what you want to be using to make a nice metal frame that'll sit indoors. You can use flux core wire and forego gas tanks. Still going to be way better than a stick.
Only a person who does nothing cannot make a mistake and a negative experience is much more valuable than only a positive one.
when you mention the drying, I am thinking of a small tumbler type system to dry the bits after shredding. something that feeds in, tumbles through a spinning cone. something similar to plastic sorters, or how some compost places use the same process to speed up and sort out the compost.
Shit that’s a good idea….
More welding projects! 🎉
Thank you for taking this project on!!! The whole issue of what to do with failed prints and purge has stopped me from diving deeper into 3d printing because it seems so wasteful thank you for helping find a solution!!!
Soon I hope people on every continent will do this project and accept waste
You might be able to use a wacky wirily to make soda straws up to make like short links of wiring harness so you don’t have to go buy any and make it easier to get into if you gotta do patchwork
MAKERS UNITE!!! Gotta love it!
this mite help in your slicer change the setting to print `outside to inside` walls, this will help keep your sizes in spec.
Always down for experimentation! Love the candid lessons learned here!
Excelentes videos! Quiero la 3er parte!
Going to do my shredder, but I want to do it cheaper. Hope I can $.$
I was thinking of doing the dryer with a Peltier cell.
Please test how uniform the shreddered chips must be to use your filament maker. I have read that the size of the chips are really important.
Just a thought for an addition to the ARTME3D. Attach a fin to the extruder screw that “mixes” the filament in the hopper.
I’ve seen a vid of someone using the printer bed heated with a box over the filament to dry it out. No extra equipment needed.
Another fantastic video! It's been so awesome and fun to watch this channel grow. This is quality content.
The VFD is not a waste of money. Electric motors especially cheap ones have a hard start which is also commonly referred to cross the line. This means that the motor will require up to 3x the amount of amperage at start up as it will running. The VFD will solve this problem. This will bring down your overall power requirements. There is a data plate on the motor that will list FLA on it. This means full load amps. If you have a VFD your FLA will be the most amperage your motor will require. Without the VFD you will need 3x the FLA listed to start the motor. The VFD will be your friend. I hope this helps. I size generators for Electric motors all the time and this often trips people up.
I love the video and am making my own shredder that is 3d printed and would love if you calculate and share the final torque of the motor + gearbox
I love the slogan / motto.
I think you should include the cost of drying the filament as some people might have and some might not and it would just be good information to have for those who want to recreate the project.
Have you considered putting castor wheels on one side of the frame? Then you can move it around if needed, but it will still be stationary with only 2 legs and 2 wheels. You can get locking castors too!
I would mix yellow and red into orange. The varied nature of the color in the end will add character, and tell the history of the material!
On it!
I love the slogan!!!
I would make a press type extruder and have it in stages so stage one would be the cold end/ hopper part, stage two would be warm up the plastic to half of melting point and the final stage would be the hot end. then cold water bath into a die of 1.75 give or take than spool it.
for fit test you should probably use something like pla that is easy to print and don’t shrink, as cool as petcf is it isn’t a good fit test material
also for mixing colors, you can extrude to a 3mm “filament” and cut it to form a pallet before extrude again into 1.75mm filament. this is good for material and color consistency. this also make drying easy
Okay sooo i dont even know where to start, there is so much in this video i could talk about...
I love to see and congratulations on your progress you're doing really well and its really interesting to see how you approach it... as i am currently attending a mechanical engineering college and i am almost done with it - i am just astonished by how much theory and knowledge actually is popping up in my puberty brain (which usually tends to forget stuff😂) while watching this.
And thinking of how i would do it - starting with making the frame rigid, welding,... and how it might be possible to do for example the washing (like you said propably put it in a net and give it a quick rinse - maybe in the washing machine... and then drying it... where i thought of how the professional injection moulding machines dry their pellets...and how it might be possible to recreate this fairly simple
The worm gear is an excellent choice, sorry i only thought about complex stuff like planetary gears or a HarmonicDrive...
anyways before i write an essay while breaking the world record for the longest youtube comment and the most awkward one too because i absolutely am the worst in explaining and writing good texts😓
In case you are interested in my ideas /help... you may always reach out to me on discord :))
(and sorry for everyone in advance when regretting to read this )
I would after making the filament dry it on the spool and then cut it to pallets to make a second extrution and the filament more consistent in diameter and the moisture will be gone
I work with injection molding. There we know the exact shrinkage of said material and compensate for that. We use PP and it shrinks up to 24h. The initial cooling also impacts how much it will shrink the following 24h. We compensate the molds for said shrinkage. Then we use the cooling for fine tuning it.
Generally the plastic materials used in production manufacturing have known material properties even how much regrind material to safely add.
My main concern with this and other projects is using 100% regrind. I think moisture is the least of his concerns at this point. Also funnily enough in every plastics manufacturing plant I’ve worked in there was zero concern of plastic bead moisture content. I mean we would have train cars of the stuff just parked outside and feeder hoses just stuck on the lower manifolds. They just sucked plastic out and into the color mixer and into the extruders. I’m guessing the extreme heat generated by the extruders took care of any moisture issues. But with the size of the screw he had I’m wondering if there is enough room to deal with steam buildup. I doubt temperature is an issue if it gets hot enough to extrude it’s getting plenty hot.
love the video so keen on the idea of being able to recycle old prints. though if you haven't seen the controversies round the sponsor better help i would suggest anyone thinking of using it to look into them, they were exposed years ago for their practices and now they are popping back up everywhere
Love your videos but I did find the audio on this video a fair bit lower than other videos of your and other content creators I watch. Keep up the great work.
Great video, really appreciate the honesty in accepting the mistakes you made and learning from them. These kinds of projects almost never go as planned and posting the whole process buith failures and successes means we can all learn and replicate the successes.
For washing the filament shreds I would assume drying them wouldn't be needed if your melt zone in the extruder is long enough. You're melting the plastic at 200+C so any water trapped in the material should boil off. The key thing would be making sure the material is molten for long enough for the moisture to escape. That's just my theory based on my basic knowledge of moisture absorbsion in polymers. 😂
I'd say adding in 10-20% virgin material/resin will definitely help out in producing a higher quality filament. This is common in all forms of metal and plastics recycling as it helps reduce the concentration of impurities that are bound to be added to the mix.
Once you have this all up and running you also could experiment with recycling broken/old standard injection moulded plastics into filament. With lots of the plastics you'll find around the house being ABS(cases on electronics, LEGO, car parts, etc.) you could potentially combine waste ABS prints with broken injection moulded ABS and some virgin ABS resin to produce ABS filament. The main concern here would be the fumes produced, but putting the extruder in an eclosure with a few nevermores could solve that.
The quality of the Artme you showed looks so good that I'm tempted to get one despite really not needing it 😄 Just wow.
Beware there is a 20 day wait and you need to 3D print nearly all of the plastic pieces.
@@soundsparkYup I got that from the video (the self printing requirement) I don't need it so I won't purchase but still, it's good stuff!
I'm fascinated by the recently announced pellet extruder by Greenboy3D also.
For functional and accurate 3d printing, especially to those tolerances, you should go with a smaller, not larger nozzle. .4 or smaller if possible, tune for the filament you are using and slow things down a ton, like 50mm/s max. This will get you much better tolerances
Slogan is great!
When I saw the Shekel symbol on the overlays I first wondered why you randomly put a Xiaomi logo there lol. Somehow in that font and color scheme they look super similar at first glance.
True!
I'm rather new to the 3D print community but my younger brother is a destructive/nondestructive testing engineer and uses a set of industrial CNC and 3D printing devices so I g to him for advice. When I did ask him about the most accurate method of printing without CNC work he stated the small and slow method they use is always best. Highest resolution printhead and done at speeds that are as slow as can be done while still keeping the print material uniformly extruded.
I'm going to try a few various methods with my new S1 Pro and Sonic Pad set.
Professional machinist and welder here. I openly weep every time I see one of those poor, defenseless 1-2-3 blocks getting savaged by your... welds(?). Keep at it, watch some stick welding videos.
I love your logo.
I did wonder if a condensing clothes dryer would work. They are designed to pull moisture out of things.
You'd probably have to do it after shredding and have some sort of mesh bag.
I love this project. Would like to make a version that's optimized for just recycling the poops from bambu printers and spate filament from the end of rolls
True, but don’t you get failed prints once in a while too?
You should put the stress of plastic into a small mesh bag and put them and a Filament Drive
Started giggling about the Logo prior to your comment. I wish more people lived by it!
You asked about shred drying at the end of the video, and I know not everyone will have an enclosed printer, but why not print a PET or stronger box with venting (much like a huge desiccant box)? You can then use the built in filament drying function of your enclosed printer.
About the plastic colours, maybe shred them all separately and after try to make different mixes while making the filament to see the results, I think would even be a cool video about that on it self!
Bingo!
On the tolerances you have 3 factors. 1 shrink of plastic. 2 inaccuracy of 3d print. 3 imperfections in the print like the seam. For pretty much all to be truly accurate you have to do compensation in the cad. You can get away with bulk scaling for the shrink but different cross sections shrink differently so to be truly accurate you need to adjust the cad for the important measurements. For the other 2 it's your specific printer and slicer setting so something like a clearance test will help, and rounds are generally worse than flats. If it has to be really tight then it will probably always require some post processing due to the limit of 3d printer precision. Try printing many parts and measuring the variance a good printer will probably vary by about .1mm. Some printers actually spec that repeatability. Post processing often needed in machining too beyond a certain accuracy: example if you drill a hole you will need to use a reamer for final sizing if it needs to be really precise. Just for reference when I was working with a 250k cnc machine years ago it's repeatability was measured by a calibration firm at .025mm. Which might be able to be improved a little by doing all the cuts from the same direction. And funny our expensive calipers .025--.05mm depending which one. Expensive micrometers around .01mm. Of course for those accuracies you need a temperature controlled room anyway.
Regarding the measurements large offset, it may be due to conversion issue, when converting a file from one type to other, I had the same issue as well but backwards.
It reads as 9mm in diameter on screen, but prints less than 6mm, when checked in CAD software (ThinkerCAD, FreeCAD, OnShape), it reads as 9mm, but prints 6mm, even though it is listing as 9mm in slicer software too. The file was not mine, but was interesting to see, how come an imprecise tolerance is sometimes caused by software and not hardware, I recreated the file myself and it was accurate, just to check where the issue may be.
Off course we care !
On my side i got like 2 kg of fail print and stuff and im still keeping those in separate bags by color in case when somehow i can recycle this into new filament.
Love the new motto! I'd be curious to see if you can put PET bottles (without the caps) into it to make longer spools of PET filament than the other diy solutions out there.
We shall find out
With the MIG, Make sure to use shelding gas!!!!
This project is so awesome. You’ve inspired me to reach out to the local library’s which have 3d printers and look into funding options for starting a recycling program locally. It is bonkers that government facilities such as a library wouldn’t already do so, or at least it seems like oversight to me. Either way seems like it’ll be a great thing for those involved to learn. Keep up the awesome work.
DO IT!!!!
I'm really glad to see the artme3d extruder taking off! I posted about it a few times months ago when i first found them before sending it off to Stefan to investigate. Apparently they've had to massively step up production to keep up with demand since!
You are to thank?! Nice. Yeah they’re inundated apparently
@@thenextlayer yeah, when I first found the design there was basically nothing online about them. I posted a few places before reaching out to Stefan directly to point him to it. I've been working on the recycling dream for a while now, and it's awesome to see a modern and affordable extruder on the market.
Hi, I have seen on one of the videos, that you can use strong magnets to collect sinner metal dust from shredded parts. Seems useful to me
For drying, consider making a small greenhouse, and store your scrap/shreddings there. It won't dry things out, but it will give you a much lower baseline of relative humidity. Monitor a hygrometer, and tune it accordingly.
I live in a place that is known to be cold and _wet_ in the winter, but have some space that gets good sun exposure. I Plan to make a small cabinet with the north side, and all equipment painted black, some water tanks for thermal mass, and greenhouse double layer poly-sheets. If It can be set up so that it seals itself up when it's cool (avoid night condensation), and allows _some_ fresh-air to cycle through it, my hope is that it acts as a pre-drier.
Regarding 3d printed parts for fit checking designs... consider 3d-printing only important/critical fit sections of a model first to determine model offsets required to produce accurate part geometry in complete parts. Much faster to iterate ideal fit and less material use than iterating complete parts.
Thanks!
As far as the drying of the shredded plastic once it's in shredded form put it in those bags you were talking about and chuck the bag in a cloths dryer on low heat to draw out the moisture
That's a smart idea. I have a dryer, though, and I can't control the heat, it's a combo dryer /washer and I don't trust it.
I suddenly got a mental image of one of these filament extruders producing filament but instead of it being wound around a spool it being fed into a 3D printer which is printing off the parts for other extruders. I REALLY like the idea of recycling the waste from 3D printing to make new tools to further recycle more waste from 3D printing. This is a fantastic series and TBH I would seriously consider a tabletop system that I could just feed waste into one end and have useable filament come out the other end.
Now as for how to dry the shreds, I'm not sure how you'd set this up but I work in the plastics industry and we regularly ship bulk PE/PP pellets via rail. Sometimes they arrive wet and have to be dried out. Some of the customers have a device that blows in warm, dry air into the hopper from the bottom. This serves to dry out the material and stir it up all at the same time. In your case I don't think it would have to be a huge volume of air but it would need to be a good pressure to ensure it could force it's way though the dense grind. this might even serve to help remove some of the dust and finer debris. this of course is all off the top of my head.
rgd the pellet extruder, the algorithm recently pointed me to Greenboy3D and his custom pellet extruder /watch?v=f0rVNFXp9IA
something to consider is a way to control the size of the shreds to make sure they aren't to big, getting consistent sizing in your shreds could be an issue to work out, just food for thought
Yep! I have a 5mm siev in the shredder
Quick question if I have some pla from failed prints and test models can I send it to you?
Go with flux core when using wire feed with what you're doing its just as easy a mig and not shielding gas reliant.
You should only get a TIG or Stick welder once you know how to weld already. Getting a stick welder first will teach you more about surface preparation than actually welding. A MIG welder with flux core wire is essentially a hot metal glue gun. You should also not cheap out on it, as a decent MIG welder might also be able to weld with argon gas and also to TIG (which is similar to soldering) and stick welding. As per tolerances, it boils down to knowing the percentage of expansion and shrinking the material you're using to printing experiences as it heats up and cools down since you're melting it to produce the part.
Vector 3D on youtube has the best printer calibration tutorial. I highly recommend you follow his method. He uses a very specific print to establish mathematical adjustments to be made to your configuration.
Ah, for dimensional accuracy? That’s a good idea. Will I seriously be able to get to 0.05mm accuracy with FDM, though…?
People pay extra to mix colors in stripes on their filament. Mixing red and yellow with orange I bet would look pretty good, assuming the objects you're printing would lend themselves to that.
I'm taking the same approach with artme3d's extruder, I picked up both screws as to process the shredder turn them into pellets and then on final product do a mixture of virgin material with recycled, and them from there try to see howich recycled material I can process % to the least % of virgin and make good filament, I would definetly wash in the screened bag and then could possibly dry in dryer on low setting, though I will not be running pla as much, not sure if a dryer would get too hot for pla,
Resin Printing will give you much more dimensionally accurate parts
With the welding make sure you paint the welds with a rust proof paint, otherwise you're going to have to deal with rust down the track. One important fundamental thing with welding is penetration. How much of the weld has penetrated into the parent metal. If something breaks at a weld point it's not the weld that broke as a weld is typically stronger than the parent metal, what has happened is the weld didn't penetrate into the parent metal enough.
Thank you for this cool series can't wait for your next video on this project, From an enthusiastic engineer and welder (Tig Welding specialist)
Nice. Thanks for following along!