3D Printing Metal: How strong is it?
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- čas přidán 14. 04. 2024
- In this video, I test out how strong metal 3D printing actually is, by designing some 3D printed tools to 3D print out of ultra hard tool steel. Obviously, I don’t own a metal 3D printer, so I got a little bit of help from my friends over at PCBWay. You can check them out at jle.vi/pcbway (Not sponsored, parts were provided as free samples, though).
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I look forward to the day we can do this at home for a reasonable price
I don’t think that’ll ever happen metal alone is expensive and I can only assume it’ll get more expensive as time goes on
@@tt._.7857but thats like 10 gramms of metall maybe. If the cost of lasers and optical lenses would come down you could sell hobby metall 3d printers
@@tt._.7857 It's not the metal, it's the process. At the end of the day you're just _very accurately_ sintering metal powder, which requires expensive machines (tooling). And if you're running a business making things you'll want to see the RoI rather quickly.
@@loc4725 oh damn wait so 3d printing metal uses sls? I pictured come crazy hot hot end with metal filament but I mean that makes a lot less sense😂😂
@@tt._.7857 That might actually be possible, if you had a ceramic hotend, low(ish) melting point metal and some sort of exotic cooling setup.
You should check if you can heat treat the bit, without that nothing will be strong enough
Hmm, good point. How hot do I need to go? I bet they could've done that for me if I'd asked.
@thenextlayer with mist knives I think they just get it red hot then drop it it oil.
I would check the specifications of the steel. Some steels are better quenched in oil and some are better quenched in water.
Use a rare earth magnet and hang it on a string, use a gas torch and heat the metal until it's red and use the hanging magnet to see if the metal is still magnetic. Once it's not magnetic anymore, quench the metal in oil or water. I recommend electroplating it with zinc after hardening to prevent rusting.
Was gonna say the same if I didn't find someone else saying it.
@@thenextlayerget it hot enough that it's non magnetic. Usually close to white just past orange, but depends on your lighting conditions.
This is not exactly how you're going to have a bit that lasts long. You will need a hardening process like any other tool steel.
This seems like a good merch idea
Totally, except I'd need to order like, 10,000 of them. Do you want one? And if so, how much is it work to you? :)
If your just selling the bit, I'd pay no more than $10 usd.. if it's a set I'd say $30-40 usd..
Maybe you could JB weld two single sided bits if you trim the bases?
You forgot the last crucial step for tool steel. Heat treatment in sure this would be much stronger after the treatment!
Good call I need to try that
If you make the splined area loonger you can cut it off when it gets stripped and have fresh splines.
Nice , then find a way to harden w heat like others mentioned
I’m guessing that bit wasn’t hardened. Idk what kind of steel they used or if it even could be hardened but they’re may be room for improvement.
That is really cool! I love your videos
You should have gone to a old school machinist. He would have dug out a long type phillips bit for the base, an cylinrical bit holder to modify into a holding jig and put it in his trusty improvised divider head made from a collet chuck inserted in a piece of hexagon stock. After turning it to a desired transition, he would mount the improvised divider on the support, fix a milling cutter in the chuck and make the hex.
Half an hour of work for a experienced machinist for a much better product.
Or cut away the flat side, bore a hole and glue in the hex.
@@heavyweather Excellent idea! You could even leave out the glue and simply press it in. The hex shape can be rounded up and turned down to a diameter with a drill and a file.
Smart I didn't think of that.
Sounds expensive lol what do you think that would cost at a machine shop? I'm also curious what it cost to print
Pretty much, except we don't put endmills or milling cutters into chucks. :) Collets or "endmill holders" work significantly better.
Better way would probably be to 3d print one, cast it, and then pour metal into the cast that can be refined and made to fit perfectly, cool video though, curious to see how metal 3d printing could potentially end up manifesting in something like PCB manufacturing for sure
You should look at Wera's hex tools. There is a concave dip on each of the 6 sides. Wera claims this makes the tool stronger. This may prevent sheering.
Haha I mostly use the flathead. I'd imagine it would need to be heat tempered for it to work.
Just use a grinder to remove the stripped part of the bit, and it will work perfectly again! You can do it multiple times, it makes your tool last 3x longer!
Wiha ultra driver bits work. They have pretty much every double headed bit imaginable
Yes, but the hex are hex (different sizes) on both sides, same with philips, they don't have one that's phillips on one side and hex on the other
they can be but they need proper post processing and the right material choice aswell.
Didn't know you needed to post-process. Could I have made it stronger?
What is "proper post-processing"?
@@thenextlayer You don't need to but depending on applications it can help with it durability and ofcoruse strength. Various traditional metal heat treatment methods and process such as tempering can increase the hardness of the finished part which you want in this case and other methods such as HIP (Hot isostatic pressing) to increase the uniformatiy of the printed and reduce the porosity as that is one of the biggest weakness of 3d printed metal parts, where majority of the part strength is at. But unfortunately these are all industrial processes that cant be easily done at home lol.
@@saltyexxer8253 Post processing methods that can improve the parts performance (material properties) there is many different ways and methods but you need to choose the suitable one for it application
@@saltyexxer8253
Perhaps Tempering.. ?.. One could even suggest coatings(like drill bits-cobalt/titanium) but I am reaching here as this is not my bag.. 🤙🏻
You just gained a subscriber my friend!
Make the hexagonal shaped tip twice as long and as you strip it, use a metal file to remove small amounts of material and expose the rest of the intact geometry to keep having that crisp fit on the screws.
can we get the link for the multitool?
When the tip gets rounded on your hex bit, grind it down a millimeter on the face.👍
CZcams recommending this on a video about printing knives.
What printing process was used? I assume laser powder bed fusion?
Nice! What is name and type of toolholder?
Gerber gear armbar drive apparently, someone commented just below you instead of replying lol
His guy talking about having a screwdriver in your pocket mean while I have a kraftform kompact in my pocket everyday with my keys and a Leatherman sidekick and a Milwaukee fast backend that's just 1 pocket
Depending upon the process and post processing, it can be.
Anybody got an idea of where I can get that multi tool? Kinda need it.
Do some heat treatment experiments. All you'd need is a blow torch, a random oil and maybe your oven for normalisation
Great idea, I'll do that.
you must temple the metal to do it strong .. if not, metal is maleable as plasteline..
temple: make it hot minimum at 800ºC , as hot a hell .... then quick put into water, or oil at ambient temperature..
that will temple the metal and make it hard and strong..
Not they have your file and they will make a bunch of them to sell .
Maybe designing it like the wera hex plus would be stronger?
Need to look into that
Dude I'm always looking at mine and I'm just like I wish I could have a hex in this. Why didn't I think of this.
I kinda wanna make them but I don't think I'd be able to sell 10,000 of them lol
@@thenextlayer I agree. Is it reasonable just to get like 100 3d printed?
Huge quantities?" How much did that cost as a sintered 3d part? In my experience, even a couple dozen pieces is quite reasonable to produce in a small job shop. CNC is becoming very affordable. Get 20 or 30 of them made, and you'll have enough for years to come.
Reality is if you wrench on something hard enough or apply torque with the bit not full seated in the head of the screw or bolt then literally nothing will withstand that for long and the thin edges are what take the damage.
That's totally true
Homie missed a chance to have a magnetic hex holder and a bit holder then u can really take apart and fix printer
You can't print hardened tool steel! You can print steel but you need to heat treat to harden it
You should try and annealing the metal.
How would that help?
Hmm, hard to find part that needs to be mass produced....sounds like you found a niche my friend. Exploit that glitch!
How many people want this though?
Now all they need to do is get the price down.
When you round the end of a hex or torqes bit just file the rounded end off and you have a new bit again. Your welcome😊
Yep, will do
3D metal printing is still too expensive for production. Even Desktop Metal who aquired ExOne is too expensive.
How much did it cost?
I think each one was $38+shipping
W Gerber Armbar Drive
If its ACTUALLY tool steel then it may need to be tempered still.. see if pcbway has tempered it yet, and if they havent youre gonna need a buddy with a forge to take her up to glowing and quench... And unless youre in las vegas i can't really help ya with that.
Can I do it with a blowtorch and oil?
Cut off the end of the one you messed up to get back to the usable points. will make it last a bit longer ... er ... even it it is actually shorter. LOL
Thas why you need it cheap enoigh to just 3d print another one if it breaks lol
Well, it seems like it didn't break it the layer lines at least 🤷🏿♀️
Your skin is sick. It is dark.
Break *at...
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