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My support arms are a little rough when assembled. But they seem to work. My biggest complaint is the amount of space they take. And the flexible PCB, some people have received a standard not flexible version. I'm not sure which one I like better, but I ended up breaking mine by pulling out a microswitch by mistake. When I re-attached it, I never got a reliable reading again. When I get the followup video complete, I will show how I ended up soldering the microswitches with wires instead. FOr the LEDs. I used black filament and intend on mounting the ERCF to the back of the printer. All the extra leds did not make sense to me as I would not be able to see them. So I only mounted the front facing LEDs since those are the ones I would be able to see. I suppose if this was printed out of white or clear filament, the leds on the back side would be nice too. Thank you for posting and watching. I wish you a great build!

Sí, lo hace. Suponiendo que la cantidad de pasos sea la misma por revolución, deberá ajustar la corriente del motor paso a paso. Lo más probable es que ajuste la corriente a un valor mucho menor. Si usa el motor de 17 mm de grosor, probablemente entre 0,300 y 0,350. Si usa el motor de 20 mm de grosor de LDO, puede aumentar la corriente antes de que el motor se caliente demasiado.

The probalem I have been facing is the the ERCF, it's me! By mistake, I foolishly fried two canbus controllers on the tool head. One after another. Once I got it working again, I had to focus on some other print jobs I needed to complete. I also have a mounting/space problem. I hope to resolve that today and then I can get moving again on this project.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yea that ERCF requires a lot of open space. Yours is 8 colors and that is a lot. Any interference could easily kill a print job. I am patiently awaiting your follow on video.

czcams.com/video/lUvaA4fJWH0/video.html ---> He plugs the bearings with papertowels and then uses the rod to "pack" the grease in. 😎👍

Thank you for posting this!

I used clear ABS for the shade. Black ABS for the base.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you. I wish you a great build!

Thank you very much. Take your time and plan ahead for future mods since 1515 extrusion uses regular nuts. If you think you will attach an add on anywhere, look into how many are needed to mount the device and install the nuts now. Otherwise disassembly will be a future result. I wish you a fantastic build!

I've been looking at it. I love the idea of the spool holder being the buffer vs having a spool holder and a buffer. I'm having considerable trouble with space and the current setup. Filamentalist would be a big improvement. I'm glad to hear it's working out well for you. Thank you!

This is a good idea. I will need to give this a try. Thanks you!

While the situation is different with different plastics, and flow rate can be limiting, each of these are seperate problems on their own. Flow rate can be increased with temperature and with high flow nozzles and hot ends. However, due to the tiny space available on a bed to reach the top speed on a print, the print head needs to accelerate to actually hit those speeds in that tiny space. There are calculators available online that can show you what acceleration you need to even hit those print speeds. So taking your case as an example, lets assume your hotend and extruder can actually hit 150mm/s. With your current acceleration, will it every actually hit that speed? And for how long? As acceleration increases, your hotend can hit that speed sooner and for a longer distance which greatly increases the overall print speed. Acceleration in many cases is the biggest factor in print times. Have a look at the acceleration calculator at the bottom of this web page (blog.prusa3d.com/calculator_3416/) and try some values. On a 200mm bed, if your acceleration is 300, printing a 200mm line with a sped of 150mm/s means you can never hit that speed for more than about 125mm. That also means that many of the smaller moves on that print will never hit that speed. Bump acceleration to 3000 and the printer can hit that speed for almost the entire move. And moves that are 5mm or larger will hit those speeds as well. Thank you for commenting and watching.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you so much for that insightful response. I understand. The point is that the printer does not have time to gain speed on short movements. and in printing very often there are areas where even 150 mm will not be achieved. I see. Although the difference between 4000 and 10000 is not that much, but yes, the effect is there and it can be a goal. Thank you.

I think you can easily scale it down to 2 colors. I would probably add a few extra than you might need just for convenience. It can give you color choice without needing to swap filaments manually or also give you a choice of filament type. Being able to switch between ABS and PLA between different prints (for example).

This is an enclosed 3d printer. The internal temps get between 60c and 70c. I think that approaches the switch's operating limit of 80c. I also think soldering wires to the switch, if you are not quick enough about it causes some damage to the switch as well. The combination of the two means the switch doesn't last as long as I would suspect.

​@@KapmansBasementWorkshop So here's a not-so-hot tip, you don't have to solder wires to switches. You can use fitting spade plugs. People less inclined to crimp can order endstop spade wire premade from various Reprap and Ramps suppliers. When using spade plugs, switches must be connected in NC (normally closed) mode. This way, if the connector degrades or the wires get tugged and fall off, the endstop is interpreted as triggered without actuation and should stop hazardous movement. But i say the hole in the switch terminal actually locks the spades pretty nicely! Also see Alex Kenis video Failing Switch Problem: Omron vs the Modern Mouse Circuit. This dude is excellent at building 3D printers, but this time he is talking about something else but it still applies. Thing is our endstop switches while different in size, they have the same type of internal construction and guaranteed also the same problem. In short, if you run a 32bit board with 3V3 IO logic voltage, the switch is operated outside spec on the current-voltage curve with either or both being too low. Normally, the switched power electrically causes an impact to oxide that forces it to flake off. If the current and voltage are too low, the switch experiences continued oxide growth. At elevated temperature, even within switch's operating range, the oxide growth is much accelerated. I also think switches should ideally be coated with a layer of deoxit d5 inside. See Applied Science: How Corrosion Inhibitor Protects Metal. Alex concurs, when i talked to him about it. There is a way to run switches harder, you can run them from 12 or 24V high rail. One side of the switch gets connected to this rail via a pullup resistor corresponding to a suitable current according to switch spec, and in parallel this same side of the switch gets connected to the microcontroller input via an 1n4148 standard small-signal diode, with the diode pointing away from microcontroller and towards the switch. The other side of the switch is tied to ground. Engage weak software pullup. This way when the switch is open, the microcontroller input is driven by internal pullup. The 24V rail would love to pull up the microcontroller beyond absolute maximum rating, but for that to happen the current would have to be flowing in the opposite direction of diode, which the diode prevents. However, when the switch is closed, the switch will successfully pull down the microcontroller through the diode, while the high rail and its resistor provides switch cleaning action. You can use this same high rail to logic voltage conversion trick with inductive probe as well, if you were to use one. Since you have failed to describe the failure mode, i mean whether switch fails open, fails closed, or fails no-contact, i don't know whether these approaches are applicable. I thought i wasn't too ambiguous but i guess i was.

The driver came with a gasket. I simply used it. I used PETG for the filament. I was worried the driver might get a little hot during times of heavy use. I also like the PETG toughness. I think it sounds/feels great to accompany a desktop speaker system. It made a huge difference in bass response. I would describe the sound as very quick and tight. The driver I used might not be considered a strong candidate for a subwoofer driver by many, but I foound the cost/performance tradeoff amazing. I have 2 of these in use in 2 different rooms. They sound great.

I've never been that lucky. But, If the bed isn't level, you run the risk of part of the 1st layer not sticking to the bed. Thank you for watching and the commentts!

It's very clever. It's so simple. I didn't really get it at first as well. But after I did not understand why this wasn't used by all printers. Thank you for watching and commenting!

I used the similar Euclid probe. It worked great. Thank you for watching and the comments.

I use one of these: mods.vorondesign.com/details/t1DBVlcUBbdEK6habEsVzg you can get a kit if you like for about 5 or 6 dollars. It mounts right next to the bed. In the description I have links to the probe that mounts to the print head.

If you are using a U2C or the existing mcu with canbus capabilities, you need to one terminator on that device. In addition, you need a terminator on the oppposite end of the canbus. Most people will attach the terminator on the very last canbus device.

Also, if you are using the U2C, it's actually a small canbus all on it's own. Meaning each socket sits next to the other on the bus. So you can have a terminator on the last device connected to the green wire terminals and then run cables from each of the sockets to individual canbus controllers, all without terminators. It's pretty cool.

You can just install Klipper on the controller and not use canbus. The controller will appear as a second mcu that you will declare in the printer. Cfg file.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for the fast reply, I got it talking with klipper hat a few minutes ago. The selector is working, but for whatever reason my drive stepper is not working. Have checked the stepper it’s self if good. I’d like to check that is set as the right pins. in hawrdware it’s just mmu:MMU_GEAR_STEP. Where do i find what those actual pins relate to? I might try changing it to the 3rd drive to see if that solves it

UPDATE- found the code in mmu and changed it to drive 3 and now it works fine

@@JacobBlocker Cool. I’m glad you got it working.

It should work for any printer running Klipper.

I agree. I did have fans in those positions at one time. But with later upgrades removed them. I've been slowly eliminating fans over time...

Has it been working well for you?

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Using the Carbonaut - Carbon Thernal Pad has been working well so far. I am considering getting a couple more for my GPU. Not sure how beneficial it wold be though

I also installed a hotswap bay which added an additional drive bay as well.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I took that drive bay out - to make more room for the cables from the PSU. Sorry for any confusion.

No problem. This is what's so great about this case!

I did have a problem in that part warped during the print as ABS loves to do. It doesn't fit perfectly, but it does fit. In my case, due to the warp, the cover for the PCB won't snap on nicely. I will try to reprint that part later.

I do plan on releasing another video to conclude this. However, I fried my SB2209 by mistake. Waiting for it's replacement. About the PCB, I ripped out a microswitch by mistake. It just pressed back in since it wasn't soldered. But that microswitch and each surrounding it became unreliable. I pulled off the circuit board and soldered wires instead. Rock solid. I recommend following the manual on cutting the wire lengths and soldering. In the long run, it saved alot of time! In the last video, I plan on covering this as well.

Actually, the selector LED cable passes through the cable chain since it needs to accommodate the entire length of the ERCF so the connections have to be made at the MMB end, which means the selector LED needs to be the first in the chain but in series with the LED strip otherwise it will be the same colour as LED0. This isn't straightforward at all unless Klipper can do a software PWM on pins PA3 & PA4 to keep the LED chains independent. Klipper can do software PWM on the MCU so it depends on whether the MMB is capable. It should be.

I ended up just using the led pcb. Looking at where I was going to indtall this and because I used black fillament, I decided to not use the other LEDs. Thank you for this tip!

I did not knnow this. Great tip. Thank you!

Guten Morgen! I believe I have the 1.1. But I need to remove it to see the back side to be completely sure....

Thank you for the tip!

It does not. You will need to print those parts by yourself. Thanks for posting!

I did get it working. It took a few tries: [mmu_leds] num_gates: 8 led_strip: neopixel:mmu_leds exit_range: 8-1 #entry_range: 9-{mmu_num_leds} status_index: 9 frame_rate: 24 also: [neopixel mmu_leds] pin: mmu:MMU_NEOPIXEL chain_count: 9 # Number gates x1 or x2 + 1 (if you want status) color_order: GRBW I believe that was it. If not, I can dig a little more.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Unfortunately, the config does not work for me. I have also tested the 8 Neopixel cable, but this does not work at all. What I find strange with the Neopixel PCB is that when I deactivate it or switch from status to filament color, the number, position and color of the LEDs change with each switching. There is no consistency. But maybe there are kits with different hardware in circulation, my Microswitch PCB for the Coupler Blocks is also solid and not flexible like yours.

@@Heyde84 Seems the kit might have changed. But I've always had these led strips work the same way, except if when 3 or 4 colors. Hmmm.

Merci beaucoup!

Thank you for watching!

I'm actually using Strategy 2. My U2C is pre-exisitng since my 2.4 alrady has canbus installed for the printer tool head that is using an SB2209. There is a 3rd way too.... Strategy 3) Just use USB and a power cable and don't use canbus at all. I have never tried that before, so I can't give good guidance here. I believe the Esoterical website covers that if you want to try that. Thanks for watching!

I'm using a U2C. My MCU is a Spider 1.0. I also use a SB2209 over canbus in the tool head (installed previously).

It's right here: github.com/Lzhikai/ERCF-V2-Accessories Thanks for watching!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Great! thanks

Thats a great tip. Thanks!

I have not used that yet. But Siboor didn't design that part. Ask the ERCF discord channel. I'll bet someone knows the answer there. Thanks for the kind words and watching!

Please copy the message you get and post it here.

I don't have the uuid from katapult though. I don't know if that's important.

@@alexlikesallthegamez Please paste the error message you are getting here in the comments.

ERROR:root:Can Read Error Traceback (most recent call last): File "flash_can.py", line 137, in send_command ret = await self.node.readuntil() File "flash_can.py", line 287, in readuntil return await asyncio.wait_for(self._reader.readuntil(sep), timeout) File "/usr/lib/python3.7/asyncio/tasks.py", line 423, in wait_for raise futures.TimeoutError() concurrent.futures._base.TimeoutError

@@alexlikesallthegamez Are you using a U2C?

Thats a good tip. I ended up ripping one of the microswitches off the PCB by mistake. I pressed it back in, but once hooked up, both it and the switches aroound it were unreliable. I ended up pulling the PCB off and soldered wires across the microswitches. I will show it off in the next video. Thank you for posting!

​@KapmansBasementWorkshop I just ordered a pcb set from siboor so I didn't have to solder my wire management needs some work

I don't remember both those being there. I believe I went with "micro standard".

Thank you for the nice comment and watching!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have been meaning to understand how ercf and similar mmu systems work. I recently completed my first voron and a trident and looking to expand more on its functionality so trying to understand mmu and toolchangers

@@sanketss84 Well, I'm actually doing the same thing as you!

​@@KapmansBasementWorkshop what I wanted to do was automate filament change with just two spools. for that I needed a way to synchronize another motor with extruder motor which will pull/push the filament from the bowden on filament change macro. this motor will disengage during normal print with the help of a stepper mechanism. hence I was trying to understand the mechanism of 3d chameleon , ercf v2 and trad rack and spin my own simplistic version which would work just for two spools.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop this system will be cheaper than an idex or dueling dragons or tool changers as they have other headaches of managing the kinematics and taking apart the belts and also programming the usage of multiple toolheads. and add to that nozzle alignment.

I could not find one. The only thing I can see is his Github. I agree with you. The software is an amazing package. A lot of work went into it. I will send some funds his way via the link on Github.

Thats the issue I ran into. I figured it can't just be me. I hope it's helpful to you!

I only have one piece of advice. I built a secoomd one and I needed to trim and strip the ends of the motor wires. It ripped the wire right out of the motor and there really is no way to service the motor. I had to purchase a new one. So be careful with stripping the wires! Other than that, once trimmed, terminated and connected to the controller, no trouble at all. These have been very reliable motors. And I really like the extruder!