335xi N54 VRSF relocated inlet install! (Sounds Insane!)
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 09. 2020
- Today were installing some VRSF Stainless Steel relocated inlets on the 335 while it was apart for maintenance! These will hopefully let us get as much power from the stock turbos possible and make some better noises! Leave a like and don't forget to subscribe
Install Directions-
www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-inlet-di...
Follow on social media!
Facebook- / bimmersandboost
Instagram- / 335xi_guy
Music-
Music released by Carbon Citizens
Original Upload: Carbon Citizens - Romeo • Carbon Citizens - Rome...
Click Here To Stream On All Platforms: fanlink.to/CCallstream
Music released by Carbon Citizens
Original Upload: Carbon Citizens - Imola • Carbon Citizens - Imol...
Click Here To Stream On All Platforms: fanlink.to/CCallstream - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for the video, sold me on this kit. You definitely need rod bearings though. Run good 5w40 and Lucas oil stabilizer if you aren't already.
Great job on the install man car sounds dope ! i just subscribed
Great video bud. Thanks.
Best inlet install video I’ve seen yet, and I’ve watched at ton of them. I’ve been sitting on my set for six months because of my hks bov so it’s nice to see that it will fit. Am I going to have to remove the sub frame? I’d rather not... I do think I’ll pickup some of that gold tape though, looks nice. Thanks brother.
Thanks man! As for taking the subframe out, i think you could maybe do it without removal but it would be really hard, but im not 100% sure since mine was already out
That hks sound goood don’t it. Mines sitting ons. Vrsf pipe i assume yours too or a similar one💪🏼
Raw content brother much love to a Utah native
How is utah with emissions? I'm running dci, charge pipe/bov, and vrsf intercooler. Will I have to switch them out for stock for emissions?
Great job! Turner makes a canister relocation kit for like $35.
Ya ive actually looked into getting that, definitely a cleaner look
Man i run the AFE dry filters on my 135i with stock inlets & you can hear my turbos howl...!
Great vid appreciate it. Vrsf sells a “328d” charge pipe for relocated inlets .. bms too ;)
I was going to get that but my Evolution racewerks BOV wouldn't fit and I didn't want to have to hack both of the charge pipes up!
@@BimmersandBoost no need to fox with the 328d charge. Perf fit when u relocate coolant tank w/ the 328d tank. The Rein OEM version prob $60 out door
Great video!!! in the process of ordering the RB Two's, been thinking hard on the upgraded inlets and outlets, between the silicon and aluminum?? have you also noticed anything since they have been on awhile, aside from the better noises, just dont wanna waste time and money on an upgrade however since the new turbos will be getting installed the subframe willl already be out so I figured, why not? however with that said, how have they treated you this far and do you still recommend this?
If you are going to be doing turbos I would definitely say go a head and do them, I prefer the aluminum since I've seen alot of guys get burn holes in the silicone ones, as far as performance they sound much better still haha and my tuner was able to get a small amount more out of the stock turbos with the inlets, but you would see probably a good little gain from them with upgraded turbos, haven't had any issues with them so far and IATs are pretty much the same as stock inlets
could the rear inlet be blocked off?
hows your injector tick
That rod knock is creeping in
I thought I was hearing things 😢
Good stuff! I need to do inlets but hoping when I do valve cover gasket it'll give me a tiny bit more room 🙏 😕
It should give you alittle more access! The front is not a bad install its just that rear guy thats a pain
@@BimmersandBoost that's good to hear! Do you think stock placement vs relocated is any easier or about the same? Thanks!
@@micraw714 id probably say stock placement would be alittle easier just cause you dont have to relocate everything, but you still have to get that rear inlet on and i like the look of relocated more so that why i chose them
@@BimmersandBoost ah I see, good to know! I agree about relocated, they look way better 😁
Now you need the ram air
Hey, what a great video. Im having some issues with the piping for the rear turbo. It basically sags and dosent sit right did you have the same issue if so what was your solution?
So the entire inlet is sagging for the rear turbo? Did you do the 2in option or the 1.75in option? I didn't have any issues with sagging, you do have to move them around alittle to have them sit just right
For the coolant tank did you use the original bmw locking hose connector then connected the hose to it or did you just connect the hose straight go the coolant tank without the locking hose clamp?
Ya i just cut the connector off and used the supplied barbed fittings to attach the new hose
@@BimmersandBoost oh ok thank you i just finished replacing the coolant tank on my car it has a relocation kit but the previous owner didn't do it correctly I was able to keep the bmw quick disconnect and used a you shape hose and a brass fitting to sit the coolant tank a bit better.. thank you for your reply
@@BimmersandBoost i just noticed my car doesn't have a crank case ventilation valve at all and my car has relocated inlets also is there a different way I would have to install an occ on it?
What is better this or regular upgraded inlets? and what are the differences? which one should i pick because it seems like a lot of work for the relocation.
That is a good question, my big selling point was it simplifies the engine bay and it shortens the intake, they probably both will provide similar gains and I also think the relocated sounds better
Hey brotha what did you do with the rear inlet plug that goes to inlet ? Does it just stay disconnected ? (Connector at rear near fire wall)
I have the same question
did you keep the oem bracket for the boost solenoids the car came with or did they include a new bracket for them?
I think they included a bracket but it didn't fit right if I remember correctly, I just situated them right and zip tied them haha
If I wanted to put a 3.5 tmap sensor do I need it? Or no with relocated inlets!
If you want to run more boost you will need a map sensor, the factory one can only read like 23lbs or around there, inkets have no relation to that
Is that a slight knock I'm hearing?
Nah haha it was a bad coil pack that wasnt seated all the way, just had to replace it
hey whats the light knocking noise i have the same sound when i get to 2-3k rpm. i have no power lost. is it a injector or a lifter
That noise was a coil pack not seated all the way, first thing i would check
Thought I heard knock on start up
so What are the actual benefits of this ? besides freeing up some room by the drivebelt/rad area ? I mean it looks cleaner but what is the real benefit ? I always felt the Intake air temps would be higher on that side cause the manifold/turbos in that area . how much is this kit anyways ?
Its not super beneficial for stock turbos, but since i was in there i decided to add them and im trying to make as much power from stock turbos and they did help with that
@@BimmersandBoost I’m on stage 1 turbos from Vargas . They looks clean I’ll give you that . Sadly I think I’m at the max power limit on these turbos so I don’t think I’ll benefit from this mod I already have silicone inlets .
@@LikquidDutch ya if you already have bigger inlets its all the same, i just thought the relocated looked good haha
What did u do with the pcv? How did u connect it
They supply you with the hose and a 90° fitting, you just remove all the pcv stuff off the valve cover, use a small piece of the hose plus the 90 to re direct it back to the inlets
Which coolent tank did you use ?
Just the factory 335 one
Please do a pros and cons for this mod, I bought some relocated inlets and some people weren’t recommending them mainly because they are for looks and the power gain isn’t significant. A response or a video would be great to clarify the relocated inlet discussion.
That is actually a really good idea for a video, i was told the same thing when i bought them, ill look into that
man frick i can’t find what to do with the catch can hose
Are you talking about that port on the inlets? Easiest option is to just run it back into the factory pcv valve on the valve cover
Thought I heard a knocking sound ?
Ya haha it was something going on with a bad coilpack/spark plug, not really sure what it was but it went away after a plug and coil pack change
What chargepipe bov is that?
Its an active autowerke charge pipe and BOV
Nice mods. Gotta get hot air into the engine so the spark plugs don't freeze up.
Turbos make the air hot by compressing it. The more air the better.
Lol what are you, a boomer? You realize the inlet air temperature on a turbo car doesn’t matter, right? Sure, it’s taking in warmer air. This would be a problem/power reduction on a n/a car, because once it goes in, it goes right to the throttle body. There’s no other way to cool the air and make it any more dense, and so you lose power compared to if you were intaking the coldest air possible
On a turbo car, there are these things called intercoolers. They cool the air AFTER the turbocharger has compressed it. The amount of energy this big ass hunk of aluminum that sits directly in the wind dissipates is greater than the energy difference of under hood air intake vs ambient by a factor of 10+. If you have a good intercooler, by the time the charge air finishes going through it, it’s back down to damn near ambient temp anyway. I have a similar intake setup on my car, a massive intercooler, and my intake temps when cruising or part throttle are within 5-7 degrees Frankenstein of the temperature outside. During a long pull, they heat up a bit (although not much, or enough to cause much power loss or problem) but that’s normal as the compressing of the air the turbos are doing adds a ton of heat to the air.
The more you know.
What's the difference between inlets and dual cone intakes?
The difference is the time of travel time for the air. The relocated inlets are directly to the turbos and there is a shorter distance from the inlet to the turbo so that translate to faster turbo spooling. The inlets are also a little bit bigger in diameter to 2 inches allowing more air flow .The dual cone intakes are over on the other side by the intake manifold so it’s a further distance for the air to travel.
Wait!! Are you saying that you put the REAR INLET ON FROM THE TOP???!!! PLEASE KET ME KNOW IF YOU DID!! That would mean that WORLD TO ME!!! I don't need to take the OEM inlets out as I already have old non wire (Meaning they collapse in when boost hits and will blow my new turbos they are 2 inch Silicone but no wire through them. TERRIBLE. So I now need to replace them with ones with the wire in them. I have an 335 XI so I REALLY don't want to have to drop the subframe AGAIN! LOL. Please let me know if it''s possible to do from the top only. Thank you so much.
Ya I believe we did most of it from the top, took a really long time but eventually got it on, seemed like the only way
@friguy4444 Did you end up getting them on from the top? Basically same situation, but my vac line somehow was installed under the coupler to the point where it's at a 90 degree angle and pinched. I have a rwd
Did it blow up yet?
Still going strong!
Still sucking preheated under hood air from the even hotter side of the engine to reduce performance even more.
That's been proven false
What’s your IG
335xi_guy, there is also a channel Instagram but i have yet to post anything
Are you Mexican?
you said your going to show steps of install but you skipped the most impostant part. the inlets.. thumbs down hommie