How to Eliminate High Spots from Ceramic Coatings
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- čas přidán 12. 03. 2023
- Although coating a car can be a simple process, there is a learning curve with each unique coating. Flash times can vary depending on factors such as chemical makeup, temperature, and humidity. Diamond ProTech is known for its versatile application, but what happens when the flash time is too long? Levi conducts a test by separating different sections on a hood and removing the product at different times to determine the best approach.
One common issue with coating high spots is when the installer applies too much coating on an area, causing it to begin curing before a towel can remove it. This results in a stubborn smear-like spot that won't wipe off. However, Levi reveals that some coatings, including DPT, have a cannibalistic feature that enables the removal of high spots simply by using more product.
Levi emphasizes the importance of always conducting a test spot to observe how the coating reacts to the paint and environment before proceeding to coat an entire panel. It's crucial to keep a towel on hand at all times and monitor how the coating behaves. In most cases, it's better to wipe off the coating too soon than too late.
Check out the links below for the products used in this video. We hope you enjoyed this informative video and learned something new!
Products Used In This Video:
Diamond Body 36: theragcompany.com/products/di...
Applicator: theragcompany.com/search?type...
Diamond ProTech Coatings: theragcompany.com/search?type...
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I can't wait to see how they hold up. Great video guys!
This is a very informative video! When I did my DB36, I had over 55% humidity, I did have to remove it in much less time than 15 min. It’s a great product! Buy the kit, it’s a great deal.
Very informative video! 👍 You should include an information how to use this product sheet with every bottle of Diamond body 36 that you sell. I applied DB 36 to my freshly polished vehicle last December and followed the manufacture’s instructions to a tee, let it set up for 15 minutes, but I have never been 100% happy with the outcome; now I know why! Thanks for the lesson! 🙋♂
Are you going to revisit this test panel? it's been 7 months since the video was put out. I would love to see how all the sections compared. Thank you.
Hot coating talk. Backing up the talk. Love to see it.
This demo reminds me of the video lake country did with Kelly and pro detailer magazine where they were testing two different coating brands, and observing the unintended consequences of mixing brands when it comes to preps, the coating itself, and maintenance products after.
It would’ve been great if the camera was closer with diffused lighting. Not all coatings are as forgiving or slow curing for that matter as this was. It’s interesting how much of a difference a panel wipe makes! Great video
I did my coating outdoors and it cures faster due to wind than temperature, so be ware of wind or draft too.
Good video. Have you seen that with other coatings? For instance, using a different company’s panel prep, not alcohol, with a Carpro coating?
Excellent video. I have been scared to use my DB36 and this helps tremendously, thank you.
Db36 was the first coating I applied. The only mistake I made was not wiping off my polish residue enough and not being thorough enough with the prep spray.
@@ethanblan435 Thank you for the tips and support.
Ummm..that promo transition though 👏
Thanks for the demo Levi! Do you have any tips for if we can’t use the mfg’s prep spray due to CARB regulations? I’m currently using Gyeon coatings but their Prep isn’t available in Cali.
I did my center console with Gtechniq Ceramic Base, let is sit for 24 hours. It made like a crust on top fo the gelcoat with small spots like orange peal but smaller. Think tea with sugar drying. Total panic of course. Cutting pads and compound did remove some of it, but it’s more difficult tonget of than oxidation. Finally I noticed that IPA alcohol rubs away the highspots (in my case the entire console is one giant highspot). IPA is 100 times cheaper than using ceramic coating to remove highspots, something you car guys try too. Intially I wanted to throw all my machines, gear and products in the water - absolute nightmare of a day!
For some reason you need to spray the alcohol on the highspot and buff it out with a microfiber. If you don’t then you will just get a new highspot in a differen location where the alcohol is running.
Any more information about what makes diamond body prep so unique? Ive picked up the DB36 kit and sure will be using the body prep but i am curious about why their coating rely so heavily on their spec prep being used. I know its generally a good idea to use the manufactures prep spray when installing their specific coating but I've been able to use other's prep with flawless success on various coatings. Would love to learn more on the chemistry behind this if you could shed some light on it! Thanks for the great video!
In case the weather people are correct about the N'oreaster snowstorm we are supposed to get actually happens... I coated my snowthrower with some leftover DiamondBody 36!
As the coating cures over the first few days and weeks, does the water beading behavior improve?
cheers
Titles the video "Ceramic Coating".... Then uses a nanodiamond Coatings, haha. Actually a very educational video ;)
my Diamond Body 36 came in yellow and had specks of dust in it, kind of cloudy, has it gone bad??
I believe that is how it should look. Make sure you shake it well before use
Have y’all tried two applications?
Excellent demo! This leaves me with a couple questions about applying the recommended 2nd coat.
1. In your Q&A, you say you are good to apply coat #2 after 1 hour of cure time. But as we can see, adding more diamond body 36 after 1 hour is self-cannibalizing, as you called it. It can dissolve the coating below to knock off high spots. So shouldn’t he 2nd coat be applied much later, so it more stacks on top, vs dissolve & mix with the 1st coat?
2. Ok, if adding the 2nd coat after 1 hour is still somehow the best-then why bother leveling after applying the 1st coat? Let’s say time is money-you could save the leveling step after coat one. Coat the entire car. After an hour, add the 2nd coat, then level. Am I a genius, or idiot for this idea? 😂
The gtechniq panel wipe is awful , Gyeon prep much better safer
I find the Gtechniq one is basically a solvent. It works, but on softer clear coats I've seen it introduce micro marring when using it. Used an alcohol based prep spray side by side to it and the alcohol spray didn't soften the paint to the point of my eagle edgeless 350 marring it.
First !!!