GHOST Car Decals (LARGE) | Apply Non Air Release Decals
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- čas přidán 16. 02. 2019
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CK- In my years of doing graphic installs just like this you posted...I’ve done both dry and wet installing such as this situation. Wet installing a decal like this one, will make the install easier and after install you need to let it sit for a few and take your heat gun and run the heat in a circular motion to dry the decal faster. I also definitely recommend the hard side of the squeegee surface, never use the soft cotton side. I recommend using the brown squeegee for these projects. When applying wet, I would try mixing baby soap with water into a spray bottle and mix it together by shaking it up really well. Then once you pull the backing paper off, spray the decal from behind and get to installing. But once you peel, be very careful and slowly in sections. I would also make your trim cuts first before you peel the paper off so you get a more clean cut than trimming the decal after you had peeled the paper off. -Ryan Oder(wrap installer)
I've used rapid tac a few times without issues. I think what alot of people don't realize is after you apply the decal wet with rapid tac, you can spray RT on top of the premask, let it soak for a couple minutes and it helps "un-stick" the premask adhesive from the vinyl decal making for easy removal. Then you simply dry any areas you need to with gentle heat and stick down any areas that needed trimming.
If I was applying this I would definitely use the hard edge of a gold squeegee and also if the decal starts to bunch up or wrinkle you can make relief cuts in the premask between the patterns as long as it doesn't distort things too much.
Lol. As soon as I posted this you mentioned relief cuts. Anyways you know what you're doing.
You didn’t show the completed job at the end☹️
Good job doing this decal dry. I personally use rapid tac. When you are done squeegeeing the decal out and hit it with a heat gun, the transfer tape pretty much falls off. If someone is less experienced I would just use soapy water. Gives you more time to set up the decal. The alcohol in the rapid tac makes you have to work a little quicker get the decal placed in the right spot. With that said you still did it like a boss. Great video.
I always use the hard edge of the squeegee. That will help with the air bubbles. Also more relief cuts or, if the design allows it, completely cut the decal into more pieces. I also hate wet applications so I don't do that either.
As someone who has done this for many moons, most recently in a commercial vehicle shop, that was rough...but you got it on. So many techniques and each person gets to pick whatever works for them. As a professional decal guy, that would take about 3 minutes with two guys. Place it, Mark it with a china marker, pull the backing paper off and realign. Harder squeegee firm pressure. Yes the paper masking will confirm if you kiss it with a little heat. Oh, don’t peel it back if something happens, pop it up with a quick tug. If you want a challenge, try it with some reflective (black reflective on a black car is pretty sweet!). Great videos btw
To avoid the possibility of jacking up the decal, I usually just rip off 12” strips of the premask.
Cut that door with the premask on bro... then peel the premask towards the cut.
These are great suggestions and the next time I do a decal I'll be using them so thank you!
An other tips.. the design of your decal allow you to cut some part to help the installation. By doing some kind of release cut. Instead of having a lagre section to aply, you will have little part.
I started in the sign biz before the PC. Used a projector THEN I digitized logos on a drafting table with "Anagraph". Changed the game when "Casmate" on PC was released. I "wrapped" before it was a "thing".
Interesting! Great video! Keep them coming!
Nice job. Thought you were going to show it as full B roll. I don't have IG, would have been nice to see from a distance.
Great video, Christian!!!
when you apply the decal, Use your squeegee with an angle of 35-45 deg. Apply it by doing 0,5 to 1 inch at the time from top to bottom et bottom to top slowly. Don't do little squeegee move. This way, it will help you to not have tension in your paper or less tension.I install this king of decal often and this is how I do it. but first, put a tape across the decal. It will help to keep the decal in place during you install the first half of it.
Good mix, enjoyable
Best method for this big decal wouldve prob been going from top down with a temp hinge across the middle w masking tape, doing top half first then bottom half; both halves you'd just want to hold the premask as flat as possible, to hold the whole decal evenly juust above the surface (holding at a 20°/30-tops angle so you can continue to hold it nice & tight to avoid wrinkles), so basically pulling the premask + vinyl out flat the way you would with a normal wrap on say a hood, for example when pulling it across evenly...def wouldve avoided some of that wrinkling, plus the temp masking tape hinge across the length of the decal wouldve made it a more sure fit from start to finish, mainly bc its wider than it is tall, so as a result it would have covered more surface area cleanly all at one time. Its definitely way more tedious, but I've come to find that tedious happens to be the key to success with crap like this...I had to learn it the hard way by blowing thru a solid amount of material when doing this on businesses' doors/windows/etc outside (usually when it was windy so I'd end up getting a bunch of crap on the vinyl when pulling it back and away...).
Also just a last additional suggestion for this particular example is if you find it to be difficult to hold the entire width of the premask (w/o the backing paper on it) evenly without becoming flimsy, then you could have - during the prep stage of the decal - cut it out with a lot more space on the top of your media/decal (like 2-3" extra blank space of premask), then use an auto-skins bumper pole/yellotools wrap stick (but if you dont have/want to get one of those then you could just use a broomstick or any pole-like object that you can roll the media evenly around so it holds your decal flat throughout the whole installation) and you wouldnt be fumbling around with a bunch of vinyl that you're basically juggling around multiple areas of the vinyl to avoid accidentally sticking any of that decal to the surface prematurely...
Oh yeah and I saw someone else mention it too, but its worth repeating; hard edge of the squeegee the whole way thru is the way to go...the premask acts as a shield that prevents the hard edge of the squeegee from harming any portion of the media underneath, but gives you far more pressure onto it so it sticks well, plus it will glide just fine, if not possibly better than the buffer edge.
Have you dealt with APA films? Im a big fan of their colour selection and was wondering if you've worked with it.
I prefer working with the plastic transfer paper. It helps in a case like this.
Christian have you tried applying it on wet. Really helps when doing decal work
Arshaad Creighton you would need to use soap... soap is the worst thing there is for vinyl
Cool job Christian! But in this case transparent Masking tape is easier to use.
When you have a design like that, you could have made a safe cut from the eye of the design and backwards, this whay it would have been easier to not get wrinkles
Can you tell me where you get it vinyl from? Or that’s too personal
Christian, you applied the decals BEFORE the ceramic coating, correct???
Yea I applied the decal first, don't worry 😂 😂. Would've been a nightmare doing it after
My only advice is to work in smaller spots and the top layer of paper squeegee the whole thing. That keeps the sticker lined up the way you have it taped. I can already tell you that the driver side does not match the passenger. The decal ended up in a different area on the car.
Thats how my boss and I do it too :) your 100% right
Hi Christian. Do you have Oracal in your Country? I would absolutely recommend oracal 970RA. Its a wrapping film with air release but its doesn't have that repositioning features that others have. So its a bit more expensive than non air releas vinyl, but its cheaper than the avery and 3m wrapping vinyls and you can litterly throw decals and stuf on in no time due to the air release. You can also wrap bigger parts with that as the quality is really good, but without the repositioning feature its pita if you're working alone. For decals and stuf like that the 970ra is perfect in my opinion. Best regards from Austria! Thanks for your great Videos!
Isnt that stuff brand new? Or I guess you did say you're out in Austria, so I assume you might've had it for a while now; curious bc I'm like almost certain I just got an email from fellers earlier this week announcing they now have a "new" cast oracal film w air release haha, so you've prob had that stuff for a bit longer than us now...is it pretty good as a whole in your opinion? Or just for cut-vinyl applications like this..? I'm kind of interested in testing some...prob mainly for cut-vinyl installs if you're saying it's pretty good for that
@@mkm1856 its like one of the old brands here in middle europe, so we have that for quite a while :) i absolutely can recommend it in any way. Quality is equal to avery and 3m (without gluelines lol). but as i already said i wouldn't use it to wrap a whole car alone, as its to sticky to lay down the whole film and lift it up to reposition it. If you're 2 guys working on a car you for sure can also use the 970ra without any problems. As i am working alone im using the 970ra for cuting decals and logo stuf, and mostly avery for wrapping :)
@@cyriouswrapping5480 nice for sure, I'm gonna have to pick some up from fellers now to give it a try for my decals/general cut-vinyl installs then...because I know oracal; have never personally been a fan really, especially since I feel like they're known in general as being better for craft vinyl + DIY decals youd find on like etsy and stuff...but fellers (american wholesaler) just recently announced that they got those two "new" cast, air-release films in stock. Didnt know if they were trying to make it seem like it was a brand new product altogether or if it was just a newly stocked product for them in particular, but it's very clear now that the product itself certainly isnt brand new then hahah
@@mkm1856 ye you should give it a try :) its not a new product at all :D but i also know that cheap diy vinyl they offer for sure. As i started cutting stickers i had that first, but i quickly switched to the 970ra. Oracal is a big name here in europe and is producing a realy wide product range tho. They're also producing window tints for buildings and that kinda stuf. Im also using a vinyl from oracal to tint head and backlights. But when it comes to decals and letterings it all depends on the price i'd say :) avery and 3m cost around 30,- per meter here and the air release oracal between 19,99 and 22,99 depending on color. Quality non air release ones are goin for about 12,99 - 14,99 or so. So with thats less difference in price i'd allways suggest to save time and stress using the air release ones :) unfortunately we doesn't have vivid vinyl here. I'd really like to use some of there vinyls, but import doesn't make sense at all since shipping and taxes are way to expensive.
@@cyriouswrapping5480 for sure, I'm personally a vvivid guy myself, like Christian here, since it's an amazing film when you learn how to properly install it. That plus I'm a vvivid wholesale member, so the prices of the other big names aka 3M + avery arent even remotely close to the price point I can get thru vvivid. But if a customer wants avery (not a fan of 3m except for stripe sets/clusters or big panel-style pieces like a portion of a hood...) then I'll happily install avery for them, it'll just cost more, since obviously it costs me more..sooo...haha. and I've never actually used oracal for a full install, only for cut-vinyl/architectural projects, and that's mainly bc I havent exactly heard good things about it as a vinyl to use for an actual wrap..so regardless I'll prob stick with what I'm used to as far as that all goes, but I'm always interested in a different/new or upgraded film I can use and offer to clients looking for cut-vinyl, either for architectural installs or for large decals/design installs...so I'll have to pick up a small roll of it on my next fellers run & give it a test run...
Hi Christian, i was wondering why the decal itself was not cut from air release vinyl? This would most likely make less bubbles in the end. Thank you
Because air release film wouldn't stick as well when putting it on top of a satin film
CK Wraps, we do air release over a lot of color change. Just post heat it. Some
Installs we do is too much of a pain without the air release on the cut graphics...doubles the material cost for the customer and is a nice upsell
How is it over a satin or matte finish? I was worried because I've never done a decal over a satin or matte finish.
CK Wraps , most of what we do is print then laminated and that works great. On color change I’ve done a few different cut vinyl decals of various manufacturers and they worked great. I have not done it on matte or on any vivvid material (we just don’t use that at our shop at all)... it should be a quick call or email to them to verify but a little post heat should relax the adhesive onto the finish just fine.
what color should i wrap my ford focus 👀 wanna hear ideas
Any avery dennison color flow color will look sick
Brushed Gun Metal.
Or 'Headgasket Grey' as I like to call it.
Beautiful ❤️
You could have taped it up cut it into tiny pieces and do it one by one.
This can be done much easier....when you were doing the head...you just start with the bottom so the head is set in the position and than you can cut with knife the transfer paper along side of the head shape and apply this as a seperate piece ;)
also its better to always use best vinyl for the decals...air release....its easy to remove them later without damaging the vinyl underneeth if you want to change decals not the wrap
I agree with you, I could have started exactly where you said. My experience in decals this size is limited. Application for people who are new at it will also vary as they get a handle of how to do it
What did the decal look like on the car.......I know u did an amazing job on that. Should of show us the whole car finished
I hsve a walkaround video coming 😉
@@CKWraps sweeeeet
@@CKWraps i watch all your videos....u r amazing at wrapping and decaling...
Thanks man I appreciate it 👊. Just doing my best
Hey CK, why wouldn't you just use air release vinyl for this?
Because it won't adhere as well to a satin wrap
@@CKWraps is it only satin? I'm curious because I have a plotter and I'm working on some big decal designs for cars. What type of vinyl do you reccomend for decals on top of vinyl? Would you use air release if it was a decal on top of paint?
No mater what. Rta sucks., . That material should only be use on flat small surfaces, been doing this for 18 yrs and I have always hated it unless you can use soapy water , but unless it’s flat that’s a no go, then you can’t get the premask off cause it’s wet. It ends up being not worth it cause it takes you twice as long to install . Use 1080 or what ever brand you like as far as colored vinyl. I think I just heard you say it was I kit, I don’t why these kit companies keep using calendared film on these complex ass vehicles. Makes it fun for us installers that work alone. Good job through. Wish I has your kinda business down here in Dallas.
It is perfectly possible to wrap a car in for example avery 800-900 series even possibly 777 without soap water (never ever use that stuff as it weakens the glue)
@@julianquaak12 Totally true.. I'm following @ckwraps for long time but this video is totally wrong from the moment he starts squeeging. I wrapped a bunch of "work cars" with avery 900 and even oracal 751 without any problems. It's all about the right technique and knowing how different materials work. I don't know in your area but here no body is willing to pay for 3M 1080 or Avery SWF just to decorate a car that is going to be driven by a regular worker. And I'm not even recommending it because again 751 or 900 is cheaper and if installed correctly it will hold as good as 1080 or similar. I like to see how people spends more money every day in stuff like "application fluids" instead of taking a course on for example an avery or 3m certified trainer.
4:18 Eye? You realise that's an Ear, right ;)
This guy I know, paid $3000.00 for a week long Wrap Class. Came back, and was calling me the first day at work. JUST because he couldn't apply a 15" circular decal.
🤣🤣🤣
The DeNoiser on your audio track doesn't sound so good. The untouched audio is better in my opinion
Looks good. But ur camera man is terrible!!
lmao.
Rookies lol. Add some graphics and you "Color-Change" guys are LOST.... HMU if you need my help with the job
Gordy Kilcollins im lovin how he is applying this vinyl😂 when i started to learn wrapping i was using avery 900 series
Not much out there in terms of online video training and for someone who does mostly colour change, it's not worth paying for a course.
@@julianquaak12 Yezzir! I sold, installed, and wasted tons of avery. Never installed wet though. Learned the hard way. Holographic film was the worst. Damn race car drivers
@@GurdeepxSingh get a job at a signshop for paid training on flat surfaces. Oldskool guys using Oldskool material can show you Oldskool tricks
dont need to be oldskool;) im 19 started wrapping when i was 16@@gordythecreator
BTW, don't be a sissy! Install it DRY! Let me show you how it's done.
Just a quick tip.. after applying the vinyl spray the transfer tape with some Windex and rub your hand across it....it makes removing the transfer tape a bit easier