I appreciate the video, but I have a few comments. 1) You should replace the crush washer at the drain plug. Always. 2) Filling the oil filter ahead of time does NOTHING helpful, and just risks spilling oil on the engine block and ground. Drain it, put the plug back (with washer), add the new oil filter (with oil on the gasket), fill up with 4.5 - 4.7 quarts, run the engine, check again, add if needed. Done.
@@drwatson1234 No, it doesn't, especially if you let the vehicle sit for a few moments after refilling. But the real risk in doing it, and the underlying reason many other mechanics do not, is that it introduces the potential for dirt/debris particles to fall into the unfiltered side and circulate right into your engine.
Appreciate the video but ALWAYS get a new oil pan drain plug gasket (aka "crush washer"). They are soft aluminum, deform easily when overtightened and can leak oil everywhere. You don't have to replace the crush washer unless you enjoy cleaning up oils spills and doing everything twice. Oil is $6/qt so spend a buck and save time and money.
I really rely on your videos except this one. If I had a lift it would be child’s play. I needed directions for car on the ground. Honda does this on purpose to force you to go the the dealer💸💸💸 Also there is a service bulletin for dealers to check for oil on the catalytic converter as fires can occur when oil hits the converter. Thank you for all your other videos
If you can't jack the car up, reach over the top of the engine, to get to the filter (you might need a step stool, or something). Secondly, use something called a Top Sider to suck the oil out of the engine through the dipstick hole. This way, you won't have to go under the car to drain the oil out through the drain plug. This is how I do it, because my knees are about 90 years old. Just take your time, make a checklist and follow it... and absolutely do not start the car until it has fresh oil in it.
I think it's better to add oil and then check the dipstick. Then add more oil until you're in the right range. If you measure and add it all without looking, you could end up with too much oil in the engine... who knows how much never got drained out... And it's a hassle to go back and drain extra oil out of the engine.
Some larger 5q bottles have visible checkpoints. Without it, I'm sure she's done A LOT of oil changes and can eyeball bote much a quart is. If you're not used to doing it, you are welcome to spend more money on individual quart jugs
what brain of oil did you use... Since owning the car i have used Castrol GTX High Mileage 5W-20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil and every time I have had to change the Engine Variable Timing Solenoid this time it lasted around a month after changing oil this time.... usually when i change it within two days it goes out... I know the weight is correct but I would think the brand i am using would be also fine... But it happens every time i change the oil .. Then i change it and its fine till next oil change then like clock work out within two days most of the time.
If you're getting a P2646 or P2647 solenoid code on an Element, make sure you check the 2 connectors for water inside of them. Water can get in, and it shorts the connector and the check engine light comes on. Blow the water out with compressed air, or a can of Dust Off and see if the code goes away. If it does, take steps to prevent water from getting in... some kind of a shield around the plugs... dielectric grease... whatever you can come up with. This happened to me, and I fixed it exactly as described.
AnyOne could do it in a pristine garage with post lifts etc. Do it in your driveway on a drizzly day with an old adjustable wrench and a fork, now that would be impressive and worth watching.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I love that you have all of these videos for the Element! Thanks 1A & thanks Sue!
Thanks for the great feedback! +Gina Fuller
@@1AAutop?oo
Drain bolt torque spec: 33 lbf-ft (44 N-m)
Was this a Manual transmission? My underside on my automatic looks a little different..
I appreciate the video, but I have a few comments. 1) You should replace the crush washer at the drain plug. Always. 2) Filling the oil filter ahead of time does NOTHING helpful, and just risks spilling oil on the engine block and ground.
Drain it, put the plug back (with washer), add the new oil filter (with oil on the gasket), fill up with 4.5 - 4.7 quarts, run the engine, check again, add if needed.
Done.
Doesn't priming the oil filter save a second or so of low oil pressure? That can't be a bad thing.
@@drwatson1234 No, it doesn't, especially if you let the vehicle sit for a few moments after refilling. But the real risk in doing it, and the underlying reason many other mechanics do not, is that it introduces the potential for dirt/debris particles to fall into the unfiltered side and circulate right into your engine.
Thank you Sue!! You’re the very best!
Well done! Thanks a lot!
Great video simple and detailed! nice job!
+Exploring Life Lifted Thanks for the feedback!
Love these element videos
Why would you take the filter out first it's much measy that way lol
Probably a rag or something to keep oil filter oil from spilling into the frame would be helpful. The oil gets inside the frame and is hard to clean.
+David Bannerman Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Oil on frame would not be a problem as oil will prevent rust. And these elements were famous for rust issues.
Thank you for this clip.
This place for oil filter is genius. (sarcasm)
Appreciate the video but ALWAYS get a new oil pan drain plug gasket (aka "crush washer"). They are soft aluminum, deform easily when overtightened and can leak oil everywhere. You don't have to replace the crush washer unless you enjoy cleaning up oils spills and doing everything twice. Oil is $6/qt so spend a buck and save time and money.
I really rely on your videos except this one. If I had a lift it would be child’s play. I needed directions for car on the ground. Honda does this on purpose to force you to go the the dealer💸💸💸
Also there is a service bulletin for dealers to check for oil on the catalytic converter as fires can occur when oil hits the converter. Thank you for all your other videos
If you can't jack the car up, reach over the top of the engine, to get to the filter (you might need a step stool, or something). Secondly, use something called a Top Sider to suck the oil out of the engine through the dipstick hole. This way, you won't have to go under the car to drain the oil out through the drain plug. This is how I do it, because my knees are about 90 years old. Just take your time, make a checklist and follow it... and absolutely do not start the car until it has fresh oil in it.
I really want to invest in ramp lifts but they're like 50 bucks a pop.
Get a Quickjack. Problem solved.
Wouldn't it be safer just to buy the quart size oil than what looks like to be a gallon container to be exact on the amount of oil you put in?
I think it's better to add oil and then check the dipstick. Then add more oil until you're in the right range.
If you measure and add it all without looking, you could end up with too much oil in the engine... who knows how much never got drained out...
And it's a hassle to go back and drain extra oil out of the engine.
Some larger 5q bottles have visible checkpoints. Without it, I'm sure she's done A LOT of oil changes and can eyeball bote much a quart is. If you're not used to doing it, you are welcome to spend more money on individual quart jugs
No new gasket on the drain plug ???? Eh ???
Does it need one every single time?
Thank you Madame!
+ikust007 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Dam that’s the same color as mine💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
🙏🙏🙏
Whats the socket size
17
what brain of oil did you use... Since owning the car i have used
Castrol GTX High Mileage 5W-20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil and every time I have had to change the Engine Variable Timing Solenoid this time it lasted around a month after changing oil this time.... usually when i change it within two days it goes out... I know the weight is correct but I would think the brand i am using would be also fine... But it happens every time i change the oil .. Then i change it and its fine till next oil change then like clock work out within two days most of the time.
I would try checking the honda forums.
If you're getting a P2646 or P2647 solenoid code on an Element, make sure you check the 2 connectors for water inside of them. Water can get in, and it shorts the connector and the check engine light comes on.
Blow the water out with compressed air, or a can of Dust Off and see if the code goes away. If it does, take steps to prevent water from getting in... some kind of a shield around the plugs... dielectric grease... whatever you can come up with.
This happened to me, and I fixed it exactly as described.
The easy job in the world
AnyOne could do it in a pristine garage with post lifts etc. Do it in your driveway on a drizzly day with an old adjustable wrench and a fork, now that would be impressive and worth watching.
post lifts? really? wtf...thanks for nothing