Yes, I bought mine with 90,000 miles. I have put about 10,000 miles on it. I had just one proble, and that was leaking air suspension. Replaced the bags.
Had an X5 50i that had the N62. They are great but you HAVE to DIY them otherwise it’ll eat you alive. With that said, they’re very easy to work on with the BMW workbook like he said. I’m actually on the search for an X5M shortly. Waiting for prices to plummet even further
We have almost the same ownership experience: I bought at 83k and currently at 97k about 2.5 years ago, and it genuinely is an underrated experience. I run chevron fuel cleaner to keep carbon off the injectors and cylinder and do 5k oil changes. The only problem that was hard to track was the CCV system because there was random rough idle but no engine light, and the oil that I can smell is burning or leaking more than 0.25Q/oil change, so I'm just dealing with it. I use Primetime and Beamer Auto over in Clinton, MD as my backup shop, but I'm 80% DIY so far. Replaced: CCV & intake boots, air filters, all plugs/coils, rear bags, air suspension block, did my transmission filter fluid, and that stupid fuel vapor line running across the top of the motor.
I run BG 44K as the fuel additive. Valve covers and upper oil pan is more very common and hard to detect unless you remove the lower brace to inspect. CCV system on these is the most finicky thing and is often the reason for puff of smoke after a long idle than the valve stem seals that most people point to - oil separator and check valves (replace with aftermarket, factory check valves are good for nothing) and vacuum leaks, S63 does not like vacuum leaks. Great to hear that you've done all that yourself, it's not insanely difficult, just requires patience and to do things right.
With oil return lines. Is there no durable lines to install instead of stock factory lines. Just to give it more life instead of dealing with it constantly
Turbo oil return lines are not the cause of the issue, the cause is the heat or the temperatures in the engine bay. Return lines are made of metal, so they don't break as such but the gaskets will fail over a period of time or certain heat cycles. There are several countermeasure to control or at least reduce heat e.g. lower temp coolant thermostat, coating the turbo & exhaust manifold with cerakote or a coating that controls heat or wrapping the turbo with a blanket, etc. and what typically breaks due to heat is a coolant hose Y connection (made of plastic) that runs from bank 1 to bank 2 right under the turbos which I (and a lot of E70M owners) have replaced with a stainless steel replacement.
@@kingturk3918 It certainly will - I don't run a cover over the turbos either to help dissipate some of the heat. I also had my exhaust manifold and turbos ceramic coated + the lower temp thermostat.
That would be worth 100k in 5 years like every other m car lol best looking x5m ever build. Look at those arches those fat rear tires love the dang thing 😁
@Diag_Fix_Cars they can be unreliable if not maintained, but that's the case with any vehicle/platform. However, they can be made reliable with proper maintenance - I have taken 2500 mile trips on mine, and it performed flawlessly.
All vehicles will develop oil and coolant leaks, not just BMW. Turbocharged engines just make this worse because of the heat they make. Not to mention the engine is covered by plastic in every place possible, they run the oil hot as hell for emissions reasons, same with coolant. I almost passed out the first time I drove my n54, watching oil temps at 240 just sitting at a light, coolant at 230. Turns out that is "normal". Don't think many rubber gaskets can endure that kind of punishment daily for a 100k miles. Then we turn around and add 50% more power, push turbos to the edge of their maps, run shit gas like 91, it's honestly amazing that the cars are as reliable as they are. If you cannot fix cars, don't have deep pockets. Lease a new one, or buy a Toyota.
Upper oil pan leak is not DIY!!! I now have that issue and dealer wants $3800!!! Oil separator passenger side also failed, another $1800!!! Sunroof drain/seal failed, flooded driver rear trunk compartment where Amp resides, shorted AMP!!! - $1800 for new sunroof seal, $2500 +Labor for new AMP!!! An issue that kept recurring was failed electric Turbo Water Pump - failed 4 times, damaged the Turbos, I cut a deal with BMW & Dealership due to multiple Water Pump failures - $12,000, I paid 1/3 - $4000+. I have replaced EVERY plastic piece under the hood due to heat. I personally replaced the turbos water line Y-Connector, it crumbled. It goes on and on. I enjoy my 2010 X5M and may eventually, one day, have everything repaired. I've had it 13 years and refuse to let it go. The engine is strong & smooth. I've run Liqui Moly Molygen (green jug) 5W40 for the past 5 years and I felt the difference in power and smoothness from day one. Will soon put a set of Deep-Concave wheels on, haven't decided which ones yet. Vehicle will go to a great grandchild one day, if gasoline still exist
I would argue that everything can be DIY. You just have to have the right tools and patience, I use ISTA+ for all my maintenance. $12k is a lot, I'd rather buy parts worth that and fix a bunch of other things that fall under preventative maintenance - the bottom line is these cars aren't made to last forever, manufacturer's aim is to hit 50-60k miles problem free, and anything afterwards will be dictated by how well its maintained. I'm glad you were able to resolve the issues nonetheless. I'd 110% agree that these are one, underrated, and two, such a blast to drive. I will be doing upper and lower oil pan gaskets and a bunch of other things soon.
Why not? worst case just pull the motor! This shit isn't voodoo magic lol, drop the damn subframe, or pull the front clip and yank it out. Time consuming sure, but it's not impossible. You are the perfect customer! Learn how to fix it, or enjoy the second mortgage.
I bought a 2011 x5 50i to see what teh fear was about and it's been the most reliable BMW I have so far after i did all due maintenance...zero oil consumption...not even a top off after three years ownership. All cars will get bad reps when stupid lazy people with no common sense ignore them. I am seriously thinking about adding the e70 x5M to my collection.
Agreed, given that you get a unit that was fairly maintained most of its life. Mine has been great - I have taken 5k mile road trips without issues. Get an M, you won't be disappointed.
This suv is so underrated, I own one and it’s a really good reliable car, I wish people could agree with me
I totally agree (if maintained well) but very expensive to maintain if work's done at a shop, hence the depreciating value.
@@E70MGarage can you give me mod Ideas that aren’t expensive?
@@mdajinah8058 There's plenty;
Engine tune ($450-1,500)
Trans tune (xhp $250)
Exhaust ($600-7,000)
Catless DP ($400-800)
Body kits (lips, diffusers, etc.) prices vary.
Yes, I bought mine with 90,000 miles. I have put about 10,000 miles on it. I had just one proble, and that was leaking air suspension. Replaced the bags.
Had an X5 50i that had the N62. They are great but you HAVE to DIY them otherwise it’ll eat you alive. With that said, they’re very easy to work on with the BMW workbook like he said. I’m actually on the search for an X5M shortly. Waiting for prices to plummet even further
Thank you for this video and for your help on the X5M Facebook group!
Great, thanks for the information
Hi love the truck great info had a question about the thermostat which one did you use I would like to change mine as well
Hey, thanks! I used Hamburg-Technic 90C Thermostat from ECS Tuning.
We have almost the same ownership experience: I bought at 83k and currently at 97k about 2.5 years ago, and it genuinely is an underrated experience. I run chevron fuel cleaner to keep carbon off the injectors and cylinder and do 5k oil changes. The only problem that was hard to track was the CCV system because there was random rough idle but no engine light, and the oil that I can smell is burning or leaking more than 0.25Q/oil change, so I'm just dealing with it.
I use Primetime and Beamer Auto over in Clinton, MD as my backup shop, but I'm 80% DIY so far.
Replaced: CCV & intake boots, air filters, all plugs/coils, rear bags, air suspension block, did my transmission filter fluid, and that stupid fuel vapor line running across the top of the motor.
I run BG 44K as the fuel additive. Valve covers and upper oil pan is more very common and hard to detect unless you remove the lower brace to inspect. CCV system on these is the most finicky thing and is often the reason for puff of smoke after a long idle than the valve stem seals that most people point to - oil separator and check valves (replace with aftermarket, factory check valves are good for nothing) and vacuum leaks, S63 does not like vacuum leaks. Great to hear that you've done all that yourself, it's not insanely difficult, just requires patience and to do things right.
GREAT JOB GUYS
This car is automotive perfection 💯🤘
With oil return lines.
Is there no durable lines to install instead of stock factory lines.
Just to give it more life instead of dealing with it constantly
Turbo oil return lines are not the cause of the issue, the cause is the heat or the temperatures in the engine bay. Return lines are made of metal, so they don't break as such but the gaskets will fail over a period of time or certain heat cycles. There are several countermeasure to control or at least reduce heat e.g. lower temp coolant thermostat, coating the turbo & exhaust manifold with cerakote or a coating that controls heat or wrapping the turbo with a blanket, etc. and what typically breaks due to heat is a coolant hose Y connection (made of plastic) that runs from bank 1 to bank 2 right under the turbos which I (and a lot of E70M owners) have replaced with a stainless steel replacement.
@@E70MGarage would air venting bonnet example small scoops help the issue or heat issues.
Aswell
@@kingturk3918 It certainly will - I don't run a cover over the turbos either to help dissipate some of the heat. I also had my exhaust manifold and turbos ceramic coated + the lower temp thermostat.
What lowering kit did you use?
I went for Dinan - H&R is a little stiffer/bumpier than Dinan.
@@E70MGarage how did you get around the airsystem error code?
@@Dakjams I didn't get any air system error.
What tunes should I run? What should I look out for? What else kinds of mods can I do on these?
There are several options, MHD, Dinan, Rk, etc. - There are quite a lot actually, from exterior carbon fiber stuff to transmission tunes, etc.
what is wheel brand and tyre size ?
Forgestar F14
Front 20x10.5 - 275/40
Rear 20x11 - 315/35
So it means that people should avoid buying your car because you DIY it ?
hey bro which exhausts is it
Catless w/ MR Supremo
What colour is this ?
Which white is this
Alpine White (300)
Do you plan to sell this ??
After all work you’ve done I’m ready to buy
@@mohammadbinwaseem2843 tussi chaskay le lo Lol
That would be worth 100k in 5 years like every other m car lol best looking x5m ever build. Look at those arches those fat rear tires love the dang thing 😁
what type of engine? 4.4 555HP??
Yep, 4.4L V8 TT and 555 bhp from the factory.
@@E70MGarage actually im looking to buy the same, but i have been told that this type of engine is not reliable....
@Diag_Fix_Cars they can be unreliable if not maintained, but that's the case with any vehicle/platform. However, they can be made reliable with proper maintenance - I have taken 2500 mile trips on mine, and it performed flawlessly.
They said just wait until the lower bearings and turbos start to go bad.
"They" unfortunately have a say on everything, and more than half the things aren't true.
Yes all BMW’s will develop oil and coolant leaks. I had a first year N55.
All vehicles will develop oil and coolant leaks, not just BMW. Turbocharged engines just make this worse because of the heat they make. Not to mention the engine is covered by plastic in every place possible, they run the oil hot as hell for emissions reasons, same with coolant. I almost passed out the first time I drove my n54, watching oil temps at 240 just sitting at a light, coolant at 230. Turns out that is "normal". Don't think many rubber gaskets can endure that kind of punishment daily for a 100k miles. Then we turn around and add 50% more power, push turbos to the edge of their maps, run shit gas like 91, it's honestly amazing that the cars are as reliable as they are. If you cannot fix cars, don't have deep pockets. Lease a new one, or buy a Toyota.
Upper oil pan leak is not DIY!!! I now have that issue and dealer wants $3800!!! Oil separator passenger side also failed, another $1800!!! Sunroof drain/seal failed, flooded driver rear trunk compartment where Amp resides, shorted AMP!!! - $1800 for new sunroof seal, $2500 +Labor for new AMP!!! An issue that kept recurring was failed electric Turbo Water Pump - failed 4 times, damaged the Turbos, I cut a deal with BMW & Dealership due to multiple Water Pump failures - $12,000, I paid 1/3 - $4000+. I have replaced EVERY plastic piece under the hood due to heat. I personally replaced the turbos water line Y-Connector, it crumbled. It goes on and on. I enjoy my 2010 X5M and may eventually, one day, have everything repaired. I've had it 13 years and refuse to let it go. The engine is strong & smooth. I've run Liqui Moly Molygen (green jug) 5W40 for the past 5 years and I felt the difference in power and smoothness from day one. Will soon put a set of Deep-Concave wheels on, haven't decided which ones yet. Vehicle will go to a great grandchild one day, if gasoline still exist
I would argue that everything can be DIY. You just have to have the right tools and patience, I use ISTA+ for all my maintenance. $12k is a lot, I'd rather buy parts worth that and fix a bunch of other things that fall under preventative maintenance - the bottom line is these cars aren't made to last forever, manufacturer's aim is to hit 50-60k miles problem free, and anything afterwards will be dictated by how well its maintained. I'm glad you were able to resolve the issues nonetheless. I'd 110% agree that these are one, underrated, and two, such a blast to drive. I will be doing upper and lower oil pan gaskets and a bunch of other things soon.
Why not? worst case just pull the motor! This shit isn't voodoo magic lol, drop the damn subframe, or pull the front clip and yank it out. Time consuming sure, but it's not impossible. You are the perfect customer! Learn how to fix it, or enjoy the second mortgage.
Alpine white is right!
Size of wheels?
20"
@e70mgarage any link to get them
@@TheyEnvy_ They're Forgestar F14 - backordered. I'm selling mine, check on xbimmer forums.
I bought a 2011 x5 50i to see what teh fear was about and it's been the most reliable BMW I have so far after i did all due maintenance...zero oil consumption...not even a top off after three years ownership. All cars will get bad reps when stupid lazy people with no common sense ignore them.
I am seriously thinking about adding the e70 x5M to my collection.
Agreed, given that you get a unit that was fairly maintained most of its life. Mine has been great - I have taken 5k mile road trips without issues. Get an M, you won't be disappointed.
my 2010 has x6m has 32k
Broke My Wallet !!!
Worth breaking my wallet! :D
Do you have Instagram? Would love to connect!
@e70_xratedm