I am currently running a ssi clutch kit on my axys, besides reading on forums that it works good I really had no idea what the rhyme or reason was to adding magnets to different spots on the weight. Thank you for this video!
@@GamersUnion101 I do like the adjustability. I got a clutch kit for mine originally (including a new secondary setup and primary spring) kind of wish I rode it stock tho to see what the difference is
Hey so i have a 2024 can am defender lonestar come with 30 inch stock i put 32 inch tire with dalton clutch kit weight in primary like they said and spring in secondary with helix but now i just put 20%gear reduction with 35 inch tire but i have to much rpm i didnt touch the clutch again should i put back the helix to stock well put the primary and seconday to factory or play with some weight
I really like the bikeman sniper weight but we do not include it in our kits unless we are doing a custom setup. We employ our own weights in all of our kits. Regarding boost packages yes we have packages for that altitude range.
I know this is an older video, but I have the bikeman adjustable weights on a cat with just 4 magnet slots. My sled has a really hard time getting to full shift, I have a new spider and new weights so there shouldn't be any physical issues, I'm thinking its how I have the weights placed. I currently have weights (from heel to tip) 2-3-3-2. Would adding more weight to the tip help the clutches full shift out, or should I take weight off the tip and move it further down. I'm seeing 8200 rpms on cold days, and about 8100 when its warmer out. I also notice that the sled will achieve full shift on harder packed, freshly groomed trails, but the second there are more than 2-3 tracks on a trail, it just will not shift.
Hi Jake, I suspect that you're cured slightly taller than you should be and that would be why you don't see full shift out of your clutches, the question regarding weight placement would be do the RPMs behave the way you want them to throughout it's full acceleration event to full speed, in other words do you see any Peaks and valleys in RPM as it is traveling through its acceleration event with reasonably consistent traction. If it builds its best power around 8200 and you see 8200 consistently throughout it then it is likely not a matter of moving the weight around in the cam arm but rather considering gearing slightly lower. But ultimately it depends on what you are trying to achieve. There are trade-offs to every applied strategy. Anyway hope that helps, thanks for tuning in.
@@TheVOHK When I first got the sled, it pulled like a monster from all the way from 60-105ish and thats where it would top out. It litterally pulled so hard it felt like it was going to rip my arms of the sled. The sled only ran like this for about 1000 miles and then the weights started to get a groove and had a hard time shifting past the groove. I only have 1000 miles on my current weights/spider, but i'm thinking they could be grooved again. Ill get some new weights and try playing with the placement of the magnets, if that doesn't do what I want it to do, then ill take your advice and change the gearing. I have never regeared a sled before, is it as simple as just going 1 tooth smaller on the drive gear or maybe just 1-2 teeth bigger on the driven gear? Thanks for the help. Can't wait to start playing with weights again once i get my clutch puller.
Sounds like you're on the right track bud. Definitely check the condition of your clutch components, that can have a huge effect on whether or not it will reach end shift.
Rookie question! Stock xp 1000 wot shift rpm is 8.000rpm, i want to get that up to 8.500rpm for high performance trail riding for that extra punch. To achieve that should i just adjust clutch weights? Or should i look into ECU map? Recomendations are welcome, Thank you
You could effectively do either one. However your best gaming performance would likely be a combination of both. A proper ECU tune and the necessary clutching change will be your best overall game without spending big money. I believe the XP 1000 builds its best power between 82 and 8400 if I'm not mistaken so targeting that as you're clutching goal with respect to it applied to a factory tune would be your best target. In other words if you leave the ECU stock I don't think you would realize the best gain by spinning 8500.
Great video. Thanks for posting these technical style videos!
Of all the things I missed about there being no Expo this year, your talk was the thing I missed the most. Thanks.
yes! love these videos! Keep em coming!
Great overview! Thanks 🙏
Great video, please do more.
I am currently running a ssi clutch kit on my axys, besides reading on forums that it works good I really had no idea what the rhyme or reason was to adding magnets to different spots on the weight. Thank you for this video!
Any noticeable difference with the ssi kit? I have one on the way for m8000
@@GamersUnion101 I do like the adjustability. I got a clutch kit for mine originally (including a new secondary setup and primary spring) kind of wish I rode it stock tho to see what the difference is
@@nombr yeah I bought it for the adjustments really but with 2k on stock clutching Im hoping for a bit better performance
Can we get some more clutching videos! This info is awesome!
I'm late to the party but this is great information that is communicated very nicely. Not may people understand this information. Well done!
Nice Video!
Yes I would consider a steeper helix
If the base is “heel” the tip would probably “toe” would it not?
Hey so i have a 2024 can am defender lonestar come with 30 inch stock i put 32 inch tire with dalton clutch kit weight in primary like they said and spring in secondary with helix but now i just put 20%gear reduction with 35 inch tire but i have to much rpm i didnt touch the clutch again should i put back the helix to stock well put the primary and seconday to factory or play with some weight
Will you be using the Bikeman weights in you kits? Great vid. Also will you be offering a 3k to 6k kit for the Boost sleds?
I really like the bikeman sniper weight but we do not include it in our kits unless we are doing a custom setup. We employ our own weights in all of our kits. Regarding boost packages yes we have packages for that altitude range.
I know this is an older video, but I have the bikeman adjustable weights on a cat with just 4 magnet slots. My sled has a really hard time getting to full shift, I have a new spider and new weights so there shouldn't be any physical issues, I'm thinking its how I have the weights placed. I currently have weights (from heel to tip) 2-3-3-2. Would adding more weight to the tip help the clutches full shift out, or should I take weight off the tip and move it further down. I'm seeing 8200 rpms on cold days, and about 8100 when its warmer out. I also notice that the sled will achieve full shift on harder packed, freshly groomed trails, but the second there are more than 2-3 tracks on a trail, it just will not shift.
Hi Jake, I suspect that you're cured slightly taller than you should be and that would be why you don't see full shift out of your clutches, the question regarding weight placement would be do the RPMs behave the way you want them to throughout it's full acceleration event to full speed, in other words do you see any Peaks and valleys in RPM as it is traveling through its acceleration event with reasonably consistent traction. If it builds its best power around 8200 and you see 8200 consistently throughout it then it is likely not a matter of moving the weight around in the cam arm but rather considering gearing slightly lower. But ultimately it depends on what you are trying to achieve. There are trade-offs to every applied strategy. Anyway hope that helps, thanks for tuning in.
@@TheVOHK When I first got the sled, it pulled like a monster from all the way from 60-105ish and thats where it would top out. It litterally pulled so hard it felt like it was going to rip my arms of the sled. The sled only ran like this for about 1000 miles and then the weights started to get a groove and had a hard time shifting past the groove. I only have 1000 miles on my current weights/spider, but i'm thinking they could be grooved again. Ill get some new weights and try playing with the placement of the magnets, if that doesn't do what I want it to do, then ill take your advice and change the gearing.
I have never regeared a sled before, is it as simple as just going 1 tooth smaller on the drive gear or maybe just 1-2 teeth bigger on the driven gear? Thanks for the help. Can't wait to start playing with weights again once i get my clutch puller.
Sounds like you're on the right track bud. Definitely check the condition of your clutch components, that can have a huge effect on whether or not it will reach end shift.
Yes tip is toe
Rookie question! Stock xp 1000 wot shift rpm is 8.000rpm, i want to get that up to 8.500rpm for high performance trail riding for that extra punch. To achieve that should i just adjust clutch weights? Or should i look into ECU map? Recomendations are welcome, Thank you
You could effectively do either one. However your best gaming performance would likely be a combination of both. A proper ECU tune and the necessary clutching change will be your best overall game without spending big money. I believe the XP 1000 builds its best power between 82 and 8400 if I'm not mistaken so targeting that as you're clutching goal with respect to it applied to a factory tune would be your best target. In other words if you leave the ECU stock I don't think you would realize the best gain by spinning 8500.
@@TheVOHK Perfect, thanks alot for the input 😎 Machine still in warranty so i will just adjust the weights a bit to that 8.200 to 8.400 range!