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The 24s have been doing great, yes all of those issues have been resolved.

For deep snow run ability the boondocker tunnel exiting exhaust and proper intake modifications are a must

We have done alot of testing with both p85 and p22. For many reasons we much prefer the p22 and have had very few failures on boost, now with the updated billet spider the p22 is even more reliable.

The industry chose to commonize that variable to create a relatable final value that transcends brand and model. Otherwise the relevant consideration wouldn't be final drive it would be gear ratio. Which in most cases is all that really matters. I think it's nonsense also and believe that individual final drive should be considerate of individual driver configurations... don't blame the messenger:-)...

You are absolutely correct, that was something I clarified in comments earlier. That information was essentially Incorrect or at least unclear with respect to the SkiDoo. I apologize for that.

@@TheVOHK same as the Polaris gear down. There is no need to factor in drivers as your not make an actual driver change. The 22/50 QD2 is a higher gear ratio then the Kurt’s 29/69.

Maybe it would be easier if you gave me a call so I can explain. It boils down to all manufacturers commonizing the final variable of final drive and that is why you make the driver correction. It is an effort to create data that will transcend models and manufacturers and still offer a relative expression of final drive. Otherwise we would just be talking gear ratio. Happy to chat with you sometime feel free to give me a call at the shop. 970-724-9655

Where you're going wrong is at the time that we were testing and that I made that video as indicated in the above comment the Kurt's gear down kit was a 32 67 ... that was all they sold and that was all that was available at the time. They have sent altered their gear down kit and it is indeed now a gear down kit but like I said at the time the video was made the Kurt's gear down kit was actually a gear up kit. The facts don't lie.

Great video….even tho I’m a Cat guy lol….just fyi the oem gearing on the alpha you had was correct but the alpha uses a 3.5 pitch 7tooth driver not 3.0 unless you’re referring to the twin rail non-alpha which used the 3.0 pitch 7tooth so the final drive ratio on your chart is incorrect for the alpha being that low.

Hi Jake, I suspect that you're cured slightly taller than you should be and that would be why you don't see full shift out of your clutches, the question regarding weight placement would be do the RPMs behave the way you want them to throughout it's full acceleration event to full speed, in other words do you see any Peaks and valleys in RPM as it is traveling through its acceleration event with reasonably consistent traction. If it builds its best power around 8200 and you see 8200 consistently throughout it then it is likely not a matter of moving the weight around in the cam arm but rather considering gearing slightly lower. But ultimately it depends on what you are trying to achieve. There are trade-offs to every applied strategy. Anyway hope that helps, thanks for tuning in.

@@TheVOHK When I first got the sled, it pulled like a monster from all the way from 60-105ish and thats where it would top out. It litterally pulled so hard it felt like it was going to rip my arms of the sled. The sled only ran like this for about 1000 miles and then the weights started to get a groove and had a hard time shifting past the groove. I only have 1000 miles on my current weights/spider, but i'm thinking they could be grooved again. Ill get some new weights and try playing with the placement of the magnets, if that doesn't do what I want it to do, then ill take your advice and change the gearing. I have never regeared a sled before, is it as simple as just going 1 tooth smaller on the drive gear or maybe just 1-2 teeth bigger on the driven gear? Thanks for the help. Can't wait to start playing with weights again once i get my clutch puller.

Sounds like you're on the right track bud. Definitely check the condition of your clutch components, that can have a huge effect on whether or not it will reach end shift.

That's all I'm taking care of

Nobody's yet lol

Unfortunately the manufacturer we typically work with on our bumpers is undergoing some significant change and ultimately I'm not certain of the final outcome regarding bumpers... sorry.

Any noticeable difference with the ssi kit? I have one on the way for m8000

I really like the bikeman sniper weight but we do not include it in our kits unless we are doing a custom setup. We employ our own weights in all of our kits. Regarding boost packages yes we have packages for that altitude range.

Then dont buy a new truck

Right?! If I hear "we will get through this" I'm gonna throat punch somebody.

Here here!

The fuel economy gets so bad you don't get enough miles out of a tank. But yes you could

I imagine within the week you'll have a response from the manufacturer regarding what the best course of action is. But for now if you haven't had a low-pressure code then continue riding it...

It sounds like you've reached that point where the unit won't tolerate the break-in fuel. But it could be something more serious than that and the best way to diagnose it is by logging the data. The VTI is a great tool to diagnose problems...

@@TheVOHK so if it won't accept the fuel what do I need to do take it back to the dealership??

Is it out of break in? If not just keep riding it until it is. If it is out of breaking you really should log that data and we can help you sort out what it is... feel free to email information directly to me erik@vohk.com

@@TheVOHK no its still in break in. Thank you for you're help and time I appreciate it.

Just wanted to let you know I think I figured out the problem on my boost. The fuel selector got switched. Switched her back today and man she came alive!!!!. Just wanted to say thanks again for you're help.

That's correct

We will try to revisit and elaborate on those differences in our next digest.. thanks for the input

There's videos everywhere on the Pro vs Khaos.

@@prowler13prowler I understand that. But them explaining the diff. between the two doesn’t negatively describe them. If they said “Yea the Khaos is junk,” well then no shit there’s gonna be a problem. But explaining the difference - what Polaris INTENTIONALLY DID - I mean WTF is there to hide dude!? How do you not get this!????

@@208SledHead still dont get why are you so personally invested in my fairly passing remark? To the point that you need to add childish ad hominems just so you can what...be a winner on the internet, be a better rider, smarter somehow? Based on the manner of conversation, the latter is something that may bother you. I may be a type of person who overthinks every purchase to the point that I can try to find, not 3, but a dozen similar or even identical opinions on the item at hand, untill Imake a final decision....especially when it comes to whats basically a $20k toy, and in a sport I am not profficient enough to be confident in every aspect. Go and ride dude....after you respond and insult me once more, ofc. Im off....

Stock is a designed restriction and if you change the backpressure or engineered design features you will change AFR and drivability

Due to space constraints the factory incorporates the diffuser in the silencer. This component is generally incorporated into the exhaust housing of the turbo. For this reason it is more likely that aftermarket silencers will cause a loss of power rather than any potential gain...

Is that same on skidoo turbo

No it is not the same on the Skidoo

@@TheVOHK so are you guys seeing power loss with the Diamond S ?