I bought an Inflatable Paint booth for the workshop, it barely fits | Painting Parts for the D17
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- čas přidán 25. 01. 2024
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#painting #paintbooth #restoration
I want a video of you putting it back in the storage bag.
Hahahaha
LOL!!
Lol
Me too !!!!!
lol, that’s just being mean…
Lacquer thinner or acetone for your wipe down. Mineral spirits leaves an oily residue. Put some on your finger and let it dry and you'll be able feel it.
glue some hooks on the top of the paint booth and hang the sides and top from the ceiling so it just hand there between jobs
I see what you are saying but for it to maintain its shape it has to have the blower going all the time.
My brother would always wet the floor down before painting, paint doesn't stick and holds down dust.
I never understand when people don’t prime parts they spend so much time cleaning and refinishing. Glad you did, and figured out your adhesion problems.
SHOE GOO is your best friend for patching material
This too shall pass.... Thanks for sharing Evan. We learn from you and are better for the experience.
I have painted 20 tractors over the years and have always mixed the paint, reducer, and hardener together at once and went straight to painting after mixing and never have had the paint chip like that.
My gut sank when I realized the only way to fix it. I've been there, re work is the hardest work to do, mentally. Your honesty and strive to do whatever you're doing properly is why I keep coming back to watch. Thank you for sharing and good luck!
My dad the 25 yr spray painter always used thinner that evaporated quickly
"Sweating in" paint is the street name for "Induction Time". In a 2K paint, the induction time is to allow the chemicals that produce the overall bond/hardening to start the chemical process of cross-linking. Adding in the reducer too early probably delayed that reaction and/or somewhat weakened it, but it typically would have still ended up curing. I think your problem is definitely the mineral spirits, which leaves a residue when it dries. For large parts that have some casting texture to them, I would use a scotch brite pad and acetone or lacquer thinner to make sure you get it clean and de-greased, then spray it with acetone straight from a spray gun to "rinse" it and wipe it off with lint free cloth.
I enjoy your videos. You make mistakes. You learn. You move on. And the things that you try is cool. The pond Duck Weed problems and how you try thing to fix it is interesting. I watch, Just A Few Acers Farm. And seems to know everything. You are learning and having fun. Keep it up and listen to listeners. But don't take their bad comments to heart. Keep making mistakes and learning. Great channel.
I think you're just an amazing human being Evan. I'm always in awe at your knowledge and chutzpah of gedderdone attitude
Good for you for wacthing Pete . He had painted 3 tractors and working on another one .
My dad use to say we live and learn as we go. You are going in the right direction. It will work better this time. Blessings
Thank you Evan and Rebekah! I really enjoy your channel !
Live and learn. I follow Pete and he has got to be a great resource because of his rebuild experience. Love the channel!!
Love your videos and comments from your viewers are so very helpful 🧑🔧
You will get it right Hoss! Your work is top notch. Keep your head up Evan, your work speaks for itself.
Aways ask Pete. He is a wealth of knowledge. Not saying anything bad of you, he knows from experience and knowledge. ❤
Your certainly an honest guy, thanks for the upfront truth on what happened. I would like to think that most folks would be as upfront and honest as you, but sadly that's not always the case. Lessons learned from those types of experiences are a valuable tool to gain knowledge from. Good luck with the stripping and re-prime and paint, I'm sure you'll get it fixed. Thanks and have a good weekend!
Tough to have to redo the back end of the tractor. It is a blessing that you forgot that seal. Otherwise
you may not have discovered the paint issue until all was reassembled.
My wife is an artist and she confirmed that mineral spirits leave a residue so it would be better to just use a good degreaser and wipe the metal dry.
Paints that thin with mineral spirits are fine to be wiped down prior to painting. I've always been told to clean with the same thing you think the paint with. Some reducers are way too expensive for that; so acetone is usually my go to because it does not leave a residue. Keep in mind that you can wipe your parts with anything, so long as the final cleanup is with the right stuff and all the residual is gone.
Before you start stripping the paint on the rear end of your tractor… don’t forget to thoroughly cover your gas heaters. They are very sensitive to dust particles. Good luck Evan 👍😃.
The more reason not to strip and flake it off. Seal it with your new blend of paint.
Another thing to consider is the temperature of the metal when it was painted. If the shop had been cold before you started getting it ready to do the painting the large mass of the tractor may not have gotten warm enough while the small parts were able to reach painting temperature more quickly. Just a thought...
I always enjoy your videos, keep up the good work.
And since cast iron is porous any moisture in the metal will weaken the bond.
I remember when I was a younger man years ago I was alot like you, always rushing to finish a job, I finally learned to take my time and get it right the first time, other than that you do great work on pretty much everything you do, great video
I have done a lot of painting professionally dealing with Awl Grip paint and Emron paint. When wiping down the surface if bare metal you should use acetone or lacquer thinner. Primer you should spray on a two part epoxy primer. Sand all surfaces with 180 grit sand paper unless you are painting a show car, for equipment 180 grit is fine. Before you paint anything you should use a tack cloth not rags the rag will leave lint behind.
Evan, just a suggestion, I have a friend that paints a lot and he uses a large thick plastic tarp and he covers the floor and he paints on a table in the middle and he has no over spray. When he is finished he lets it dry and folds it up until he needs it again!
I love all of your videos !! I LOVE YOU GUYS !!!!!!!!! 🥰 🥰
Another product to use is acetone and or lacquer. When I moved to our new place in the building there was a make shift paint booth which i took down. Use a wire wheel on an angle grinder to help remove the paint and if it doesn't all come off, leave it and wipe it down. Mineral spirits has oils in it.
It’s a tractor! It’s not the Space Shuttle! LOL
What a kick in the but. Maybe you saved someone from making the same mistake. Thanks.
👏👏
I have sprayed a lot of equipment with that very paint and I have found if you use a hardener it looks better and lasts longer, make sure to use the suggested thinner and if you want to protect the paint and help it keep its shine invest in a clear that is compatible with enamel paint, you can use lacquer thinner or a professional wipe down such as final sol or just use acetone and watch where you touch the metal
❤️👍👍👍
Thanks Evan
Good job's
I was taught to use Prepsol because it leaves no residue behind... Mineral spirits leaves something on the metal like an oil or something. Was told this by a friend who had experience and by the paint dealer. I am no expert myself. Wishing you the best as always.
This is not a criticism, just a guy that does similar things. I work at a dealership where we have a body shop. I restored a case 1394. The paint supplier recommended using imron because it's what the industrial paint shops use. Compared to the $100 a gallon that paint you are using I think it was $260. Plus the primer. With that, the amount of effort it takes to clean parts id recommend a professional paint product. My wife and I were mounting the loader mounts and it slipped and fell, put a hole in my driveway, and the paint was still intact. Just one guy to another advice. Good luck my friend and thank you for the videos. P.s. imron dry time is a longer so account for that, and I recommend wearing a tyvec suit or you will be orange
Boomer the paint isn't sticking. We always learn from our mistakes. Really enjoy your videos.
As reading many of the comments on preparation before painting .
There's four things that can affect a great paint job . Dust in the air can also be a little bit of a problem , warmth of the metal and the air temperature before , during and after until completely dry . Just using a small hand held torch to completely dry after wiping down with reducer . Just real quick passing of the torch so locking , flat washers , bolts heads and nuts all get completely dry of any oil as well .
Moisture levels can also be a problem during and after painting .
My husband painted his car engine chevy orange. He made a makeshift paint booth out of drop cloths and pieces of lumber. It worked! There is so much overspray you need to protect all surfaces.
I’m not an expert Evan but I always used a painting degreaser and have always been pleased with the results.
sand blasting is definitely the way to prep and I believe paint thinner leaves a oily surface. also a wire wheel will leave a very smooth surface and doesn't leave a 'tooth' for the paint to adhere to
I really like your new inflateable paint booth. Must have set you back some $$. I hope you will be able to use it in other ways in the future. You never cease to amaze me.
Evan...I use a product called Pre from Eastwood and it's excellent for cleaning before painting. Make sure you use epoxy primer on bare metal. Self etch primer will not seal out rust.
Live and learn... You teach me something new almost every time I sit down and watch you guys. Keep up the good work!
When painting cast iron castings, after you clean the part you need to heat the part to get ALL the moisture to wick out of the cast iron. Then I’d suggest rusty metal primer, plenty of time for that to cure and then the enamel.
You might want to contact Pete with Just a Few Acres Farm. He does a lot of farm tractor restorations.
Ya might want to turn the sound on and watch the video
All good Evan, learning process. You do what you think is right. Thanks for sharing
Well the paint booth sure does look really nice!
Sounds like you figured out the problem with your paint. Hope it works out when you paint it again! Thanks for sharing
Tough blow with the paint, must be frustrating. Admirable to keep your cool and get on with the re-do.
hey remember to take a deep breath (outside the barn lol) and know you'll get this solved, man. you guys always do. no problem too big for a patient mind
Ouch! That bit you good! Live and learn, great video!
oh no! that's a lot of redo work but it could have been worse. At least you caught it and can fix it. this is how we learn. good job. paint booth is cool I might get a smaller one for wood working projects.👍
Determination is a great thing to have! Lesson learned and look at the knowledge you have gained by making a mistake! LOL Keep plugging away!
I'm a painter. I take it you are in an alkyd or poly (oil based) paint. under acrylic or acrylic modded alkyd DO NOT use mineral spirits or lacquer thinner (or any other oil based thinner) for final clean. Use the acrylic reducer. Otherwise, fine. If the primer ain't coming with the paint, then the primer is adhered and the mineral spirits under it was no trouble, though what you were told is true- Min spirits will leave a film, and lacquer thinner is a better choice. If the primer IS coming with the paint, then suspect the min spirits. But the paint itself seems weak. I think it would be a conversion problem between the primer and the paint, or the paint, or paint mix itself, it seems from way over here.
I restored 1912 model T ford truck as my senior project and the owner brought paint .i painted it the sheet metal any way 3 times before i got my fellow student/ son of a body shop / custom car shop involved and we stripped off all the paint and started over. Paint and prep is a fickle clean area thing for sure and definitely frustrating and expensive
We made a 'paint booth' so we could paint outside (not enough room in the shop). Bought 1" plastic pipe and screwed it together with clear plastic taped around and over it. It didn't work on windy days but it was good to keep out the dust, otherwise.
You are doing to have SUCH a beautiful AC when you are done! I cannot wait to see you doing this! Great job on deciphering what might have gone wrong, keep on keeping on! We all learn!
Good video. Still making progress.
Great job looking great keep up the great work love your videos thank you
My early to mid 80's autobody training would lean toward the lacquer thinner whip down and even cheesecloth right before painting the thin coverings as a final prep. We even used wax and grease remover before we even started striping anything. everything can affect your finish in the end, fisheye, cracking etc. Back then we used high pressure low volume paint guns, not the low pressure high volume paint guns used now days, we had to apply multiple coats of paint after dry time and possibly even wet sanding between coats for the best finish.
I hope you figure it out. Nothing more real than showing your mistakes to the whole world on youtube. I appreciate your honest approach to showing the good and the bad. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Take Care!
эван мне очень нравятся ваши видео.
Hey, at least it will make it easy to remove to re-paint!
That's a bummer Evan. Hate to see that happen to you. May it all clean up really easy and be prepped again and painted and the paint harden and dry properly. Stay safe and hope you can have some fun with the redo. Fred.
Grown men love toys!😅😅😅 Didn’t even know such a thing was invented 😅
Oh my gosh! A paint booth for an old tractor 🚜. Best of luck to you guys!!!
Sorry about your paint problems. Great to learn some issues to watch out for. Nice to see a married couple working together even in the paint booth. A great demonstration of commitment to each other. Thank you for a great video!
Hi Evan, Probably should have used a galvanized metal primer (like a Tractor, Truck, & Implement Primer) over the bare metal and sprayed in 2 light coats and after the primer cures for a couple days then painted with the Allis Chalmers paint. (Remember that on primer and paints that multiple light coats with time between coats for drying is better than just one thick coat). Primer and paint will cure better in a heated shop, not when metal is cold to the touch and stop using your fingernails on freshly painted surfaces, it can take a week for fresh paint to fully cure, primer and the paint will be very soft for at least a week. (Cold metal in a cold barn will take a lot longer to cure the paint) Bolts and screws will still chip later when being removed and installed (being wrenched on) and I believe you can find Allis Chalmers touch up paint in Aerosol cans for doing touchups on bolt heads, etc . Using a couple thin coats of metal primer and allowing it to cure for a few days (read directions) before painting and then let the final coats of paint cure for a week in a heated shop (50-60F) (directions on paint) getting car paint to cure is why auto body shop keeps their shop heated and some also use heat lamps in cold weather on painted areas to make the paint cure. Good Luck !
So happy you are back and all the best for your future adventures love your videos and all the best to you and your wife and your family mate
Well if anyone can get back to its original box it will be
Evan because he is a stickly for detail and getting it done😂😊
You could try a needle gun to remove the paint, it is a air tool with a cluster of metal needles that when placed on the surface reacts like a jack hammer.
Cheers John.
I appreciate that you share the challenges and the successes. Most projects come with challenges. Best.
Hang in there, your skills level keeps going up. I'd work along side you any day, you have a teachable spirit and good work ethic.
Good video, I always learn from my mistakes, and boy I made a lot of them. But that is the only way I learned. Have a great day.
Thanks
Try a needle peaner to remove the old paint !
I agree with the "don't use mineral spirits" fellow as I always feel it leaves its own somewhat oily film behind. I have always done my final cleaning with lacquer thinner or acetone. I have done old farm engine and machinery restoration for over 30 years now and never had an issue with paint lifting. I too prep everything by sandblasting as well with leaves a good toothy surface to mechanically grab the paint and on many of those I only cleaned the freshly sandblasted surface with compressed air to remove and residual dust.
just watching Pete(just a few acers)start restoration on another tractor
thx
Build a rolling rack like a hanger for clothes then you can hang the smaller parts and it will allow you to get a better job quicker. The large frame may have been cold which will cause adhesion issues you can get lower temperature compatible primers and paint at industrial coating supply but it costs more . I think the lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol is a better choice than mineral spirits especially if it’s cold , prepaint panel wipe is what commercial painters use on lint free rags.
oops .... love that you put things out warts and all.
Mineral spirits leaves an oil residue when dry. I ve been in paint industries for 25 years. Lacquer thinner or acetone will work something that has a high flash point. Also simple green is a great cleaner.
You created a monster
It sounds like you figured it out. Mineral spirits leaves a film on the metal where lacquer thin doesn’t. When painting cast iron in the winter make sure the temp is high enough because it holds the cold and moisture.
The paint booth might do better outside if the wind don't blow it away! love your videos need to make them longer!
Other than the noise that thing looks really handy. I'd be tempted to rig up some kind of extension so you don't have to listen to that fan whine the whole time you are working. A few bucks for some dryer vent or something like that would be money well spent for my sanity.
Evan, I would just wipe down the rear end of that tractor with "Naker Lacquer" as we called it, and blow some new proper paint on her. That will work as the new paint dries it will bond and seal. It is a Allis Chambers and not a Shelby 500 Mustang going to Barrett Jackson for auction. A Good video. And looking forward to more. I thank you for sharing with us.
you should listen more to Pete , he is the man when it comes to restoring tractors. also you and Rebecca have a new bouncy house for you and the farm animals if the paint booth thing dont work out ! BTW next time you have $500 you want to throw away , I will gladly give you my full name and address so you can send me a check !
Forget the paint booth. Use a tarp on the floor. As for the tractor, If you strip it, maybe a heat gun would help. I would first try cleaning a small part and then over spray with the new paint to see if I could get a durable overcoat that bonds well.
when using automotive paint always clean with lacquer thinner or a prep cleaner, lacquer thinner is also grate to clean your gun so you only need one product.
Funny sense of humour
@catskinner
Strip the paint with nitromors, then wash down with acetone, repaint but always with the metal warm, Bakes on application, once on years on!!!
you can also use acetone or denatured alcohol. mineral spirits leaves an oily film.
Back to the painting, due to the issues you are having I think you are correct the primer is the problem. You will need to remove all the paint that was applied. The best way to remove the paint would be paint remover and a high pressure sprayer. I know this is a real pain but it would be the quickest way to handle the problem. One thing to note you will need to dry the cast iron after you finish stripping so you will not have rust forming on the surface of the cast iron. Warm air / heat gun will do the trick. If you do get surface film of rust here is a treatment for that you can buy at most body shop paint facility’s.
THE BEST THING IS ACETON DOES NOT LEAVE A RESIDUE AND TACK COLTH FOR THE DUST
This is a great job Evans I hope you finished product makes it worth your while I loved this.