Honda No Start? Old School Problem Shows Up!!
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- čas přidán 5. 04. 2023
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@WrenchingWithKenny @traditionovertrend2704 @SNAFU.performance #keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny - Auta a dopravní prostředky
“Am I going in correctly?” Prom night all over again.
I had a 1991 Honda civic dx, left me stranded twice because of a bad igniters. Other than that the car ran great for 299,899 miles before I gave it away. Never consumed oil between oil changes, one the best engines ever made.
Love sitting down with a cup of coffee and watching your vids Kenny. Thanks for making them man. All the best. Be safe
Rod
Great videos Kenny thank you.
Just wanted to say thanks for the videos. I appreciate anyone that can add to my knowledge of things. Enjoy the stories too.
Thanks for the video Kenny, never had any problem with my Hondas like that.
Another good one Kenny. Keep wrenching.
Awesome Kenny.
Great video Kenny - simple, basic dianostics explained very clearly.
All ways keep it simple fab video 1😊
I’ll be your camera man just to watch you work on cars. You have a lot of experience and knowledge that I wish I had.
Great job
Dude you are an awesome mechanic
Most cars any more don't like to be low on voltage according to my buddy that has forgotten more about computers than I ever knew. Early Ford Escorts used to have that same issue. I had an 83 that had the exact problem except that had a module you could replace. Thanks for the memories.
Thank you Kenny!
Good job Kenny
Neighbor kid replaced his wouldn’t start came and asked me to see if I could help. Looked good wires right etc. he had charger on it. I told him hold accelerator to floor after it’s charged it’s probably flooded. WORKED👍
I leave the wires connected to the old cap & just lay the cap to the side. After installing the new distributer, I switch the wires over one at a time to the new cap. Also, by pulling the old cap off, I verify by the direction of the rotor I'm not installing the new distributer 180% out.
Shows that Kenny is either self taught or had a bad teacher. The modules and could are also a lot cheaper and very easy to replace. It's only about 5 screws. The only reason I would replace the dizzy is if it had oil inside it. IE internal seals leaking..
That job just cost someone a lot more than it needed too. And I do the same as you with the leads. And suggested it above.
Good job have a Accord my self thank you for the video
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Good video Kenny. Threw my old timing light away few years back. Remember pumping the pedal?
Good job
Great video!
It’s like watching one of those old detective shows. Who done it? The fuel pump, the battery, the coil, the fuse, aha! The distributor cap with weak battery and fuel flood.
😂😂😂 I should get a Columbo trench coat. Thanks for making me laugh & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
Love that engine, wish they would bring it back.
My 1999 Accord was such a great car! I sold it in 2020 but I STILL see it around town! It has well over 300,000 miles on it. When I sold it it actually needed new oil seal on distributer shaft. ❤😂
I have same issue to bad do I am in Guatemala and here parts a way to expensive. Looking for a used one but seems like I am looking for more problems . Thanks for the video master. I have a Honda Accord 1998 I been with this car since 2000 and is first time give me trouble. . Thanks again for the video. ND ofcourse I droped the like.
My 2000 accord had intermittent stalling / no start. After a long time of trying to figure it out, turned out to be the evap canister electronics.
Gotta love reliable cars with reliable failures 😆 🤣 Distributer, cap/rotor, coil in the driver kick panel, were always the repair with a honda no start 😅😅. Good show sir!
Nice headliner. Lol that would drive me crazy driving around with car like that
All it takes to fix is some spray adhesive
found with some side mounted distributors that the oil seal fails on them and oil get's into the distributor and the pickup sensor cannot read as long as the oil is present , cleaned it out and presto working again . fixed my brother in laws car like that ,
My kid had a Nissan with an optical sensor inside. The oil seal leaked too much to just clean it, so we replaced the distributor. Later, I'd read where lots of owners drilled a small hole in the bottom of the cap and oil would drip out without affecting the sensor. I never got to try that free fix...
@@robertbigler7743 I have a u13 Nissan with a similar problem I clean it every 12 months or so as the dizzy costs more than I paid for the car lol. Super reliable tho. (It did just shit an alternator tho) and 360,000 kms
I got the same problem from blowby. Need little hands to get to the bottom fastener. Oops got it. Hope I can get it back on. Lol! Oil in the distributor. Hope that's the problem. Intermittent start.
My 02 accord with 401K miles somehow still has its original distributor. Starting to consider carrying a new one around. 🤣
That intermittent spark you can easily check that the wires to the internal module from the tiny pick up coil have the insulation fall off them, and intermittently short the coil so no spark. Available as a spare part, though the electronic module can also give issues, especially if somebody used silicone sealer instead of silicone thermal compound to mount it.
The stalling accord could be the ignition switch. Super common on older Hondas
Kenny hi nice video I had no idea how pricy this part went for I looked it up on 2 online parts stores that I use and the prices were so high
Similar distributor setup as in the Ford Escort. The pickup coil would fail open when hot.
This is what mines doing I’d just got. It’s been sitting for 4 years hmmm 2002 though not a 99
I remember replacing the distributor cap on an older Honda that would run erratically. Found out it had a hairline crack shorting the High Voltage to ground.
I put in a new distributor on my 1993 Honda prelude, it would crank but not start. After the new one was installed it still cranked but didn’t start. I noticed that I had to have the distributor positioned in a certain angle for it to start the car.
Let’s go
Unfiltered air N-G Happy Easter Sir!
Worse yet is un metered air.
"Nut Wax" is amazing stuff.
My oil seal failed and let oil get inside my dist...as for "the other" accord, my 99 did the same thing, ended up having to replace the ignition wires in steering column...
Any idea could this be the problem why my injectors wont spray?
👍
Who filled the headliner with water? Looking like it was ready to pop open! The early Ford flathead engines from 32-48 had the same type of distributor drive off the front cover of the timng gears.
I had the same problem and never thought to charge the battery until now. 12:11
I'm glad you figured it out. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX v6, it’s doing the same thing as this car. I had the serpentine belt changed, drove 2 minutes to the store and shut the car off, crunk it back up.. the oil light and battery light came on so I shut the car back off. Tried to crank it back up and it just wouldn’t start. It’s turning, but won’t start.
Getting at diagnosis
Electrical part of ignition switch or fuel pump relay
My 2000 accord will run until the motor is hot then dies,might be 30 40 min later then its starts back up and stalls then doesn't restart until cold
Mine wouldnt start. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuse. Than it ran for about a week and i noticed in the morning it would start but not when it was hot in the afternoons so i replaced the main fuel relay and found the sodder was damaged. Starts and runs now but now it sounds like it cranks longer than it use too, barely starting. Idk what the hell it is now
Is there a fuse for the ignition coil? It would be advised to check that as well.
I replaced the head gasket on this Honda Civic. It started up and ran, then stalled. As you can see in the video, it does have spark!
Another place replaced the distributor. It ran. czcams.com/users/shortswY3SCWqVw7E?feature=share
Bro I got honda spike 2012 model it not starting
Thank s
Easiest way to do it is undo the screws on both caps. Switch over the leads and then when you install the distributor you can turn the rotor button to line up the shaft. It shows Kenny didn't go to automotive school and or had a bad teacher.
Just more work as he said most caps have the firing order on them.
good vid and you sorted the problem out . but i would have took the cap off ,just to conferm there was nothing simple gone wrong with the distriutor before investing in a whole distributor . it could have been just the cap or rotor ?
I always check my test lights
That Honda that stops running may have a bad ignition switch. I had the same problem.
I would have taken the distributor cap off the verify where the rotor button was pointing. Then you could mark the rotor button to the engine for more of an exact installation.
The symptoms you were describing around 2:50 of an accord losing spark then regaining it immediately or after sitting for a bit. I had this problem on an accord before. The car would run flawlessly, but when you shut the car off it wouldn't start again - no spark. If you let it set a few minutes to an hour spark would be back and it would run perfectly until you shut it off again. It ended up being an ignition coil.
We used to find these exact symptoms with Subaru engines, on those it turned out to be crank angle sensor. Literally 5 minutes and a $130 part and problem solved in the driveway without having to book it into the workshop. The service manager authorised a stock of about half a dozen to be available at all times so service advisors could do this. We charged about $20 to fit, even in front of the customer where they could see how easy the access was at that time. Many unhappy customers were turned around by this fix.
Ya my 93 Civic was similar ... on numerous occasions wouldn't start first thing in the morning, but after she started, she started fine for the rest of the day.
So one morning I hooked up my timing light and noticed no spark ... this is an OBD1 critter. So I pulled out the Hayne's and ohm'd out components in distributor.
Bad ignitor ... IIRC I also changed coil for shit's and grins😊
i’m having pretty much this exact problem but the car is stalling, i just replaced the ignition coil and it’s driving me nuts lol
@@josephsprinkle8783 Check spark once it dies to see if you're actually losing spark.
@@derekr3895 yes i verified tonight that once it does stall it’s losing spark, im guessing since it’s not ignition coil or cap and rotor it’s probably the igniter
My dad had a 98 CR-V which had a CEL on. Did the code flash count with a paper clip, indicated faulty cam position sensor. That happens to live inside the distributor. Turned out the easiest, and believe it or not, cheapest way to fix it, was a whole new distributor. He sadly lost that vehicle only a few months later, via the Takata air bag rifle buy back 😔
Wait. Does that recall include a 1994 del sol si?
where did he buy the new one from? and what brand?
I bet that distributor isn't cheap either. Used to replace them on the old Ford '80s 4 cylinder cars because you couldn't get them apart most of the time to replace the electronic ignition module.
Can't the dist be 180° off?
Lotta cars you have in the que.
Old skool is good, stil Kenny that sometimes can save you 😊
Excellent video. I need timing belt installed for 1999 Honda CR-V. Interested in fixing before Memorial day.. Can I schedule an appointment Kenny? Driving from Fort Lee, N.J. to do it
That shop is backlogged... Plus he's going to leave and do his own thing soon
I have this same problem with my 2000 honda accord ex crack but no start I have heard that this could be cause by a bad relay switch do you think I should try an replace the distributor first then the relay lmk ?
Check for spark first. If you have no spark change the distributor. If you have trouble go on Facebook Wrenching with Kenny. Input all the info about your vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. There are a lot of techs and automotive people that may be able to help. You can try our FB group, Backyard Mechanics (3.8K members) they can help too. Be sure to answer all the questions to join the groups. Let us know what you come up with. Keep wrenching!
Why would you not pull the cap and check the rotor first?
I have a 99 accord, it would shut off on you but you would oull over and it would start, turned out it was ignition switch.
This one took me by surprise because my recollection of cylinder numbering is different in a different transverse four cylinder Honda engine. To my surprise on looking it up, Honda cylinder numbering is not uniform for their transverse engines. I didn't know it can be either way depending on the engine. Specifically the B series 4 cylinder transverse engine 1988-2001 engine has #1 on the left side, and the K series 4 cylinder transverse engine 2001-2011 #1 was on the right side. Why? Is the transmission bolted on the opposite side for those numbered the opposite way?
Isn't the no #1 on the timing belt/chain end side?
@@metzmatu8409 yes. Number 1 is at the front of the every engine. And on a four cyl number 4 is closest to the box. Always.... 🤦🏼♂️. The person above has no idea
@@Alberthoward3right9up So what I hear you saying, is that the timing belt on the engine shown in the video is on the driver's side? If so it would explain why the numbering in the K series was later switched..
Dude's putting metal tools and other metal objects right by the battery terminals....
Very good lessons to be learned. What is wrong with the headliner- are rodents or heat causing it to sag.
Old cars tend to do that... adhesive just wears out over the heat/humidity
I'd still be driving my 97 civic HX 549k but too rusty, still runs.
Cranking cadence at the beginning of the video sounds like it has a very low compression in one cylinder.
My Honda integra 1996 no check engine light don’t com on so it doesn’t start
So I’ve replaced spark plugs due to oil being in them, new wires, have gas lol, new spark plug seals, and can’t seem to get it started. Not throwing a code at all so makes it that much more mysterious. Sister was using car and came to a stop and it died! I’ve tried all I know so anyone got any ideas by chance before I call a mobile mechanic to see if they can help me
i’m having the same issue!
let me know when if you figure it out please 🙏i’m thinking maybe the distributor?
I've put modules and coils in them distributors and it's easy. If charging for a complete distributor I'd say you are over charging.
Drivtability that's easy for you to say 😂
Not going to put a timing light on that engine?
Some manufacturers when through a phase when they used electronic timing based on the crank and cam sensors even though the old mechanical distributor was still being used. In that case they didn't need to accurately bolt the distributor into place using a timing light because the correction was done electronically by the PCM. My old 1998 Dodge Ram is like that. In this car we saw there was very little adjustment possible for bolting the distributor housing on. Controlling spark timing with electronics allows the PCM latitude to adjust timing on the fly based on transient factors like rpm, load, engine temp, knock sensors, etc. Any minor variance in how the housing is bolted on is easily corrected by the software.
@@spelunkerd I imagine you're right in this case. I wonder why Kenny didn't mention that.
if it doesn't start in 30 sec there is something wrong don't keep cranking.
Those dam old Honda distributor are weird as F, l had a old Honda civic drove the car all day turn off it won't start the dam coil burned up.
Just glad I don't own a vehicle with that type of distributor set up anymore Cheers.
Ummmm, why didn't disconnect the battery? 8:14 I thought it was always the thing you need to do.
Great question. With the key off and not in the ignition (I did take it out) , there is no power at all at the distributor. I should have pointed that out. Thanks for asking about it !
@@WrenchingWithKenny And the wrench falling/ moving around on the battery had me jumping in my seat. (yeah I know the positive was covered but krap happens sometimes)
That undulating starter speed indicates a low compression cylinder, doesn't it?
Yes, it sounds like its got a weak hole. Not unusual at all those miles.
should get a valve check/adjust. Honda says every 105,000 miles. lol.
the old skool early 1980's ones were every 17,500 mile intervals. At least that way you'd remember you have non-hydraulic camshaft. lol. Prob a burnt exhaust valve. : l
For ( the little module on the driver side that run the injection has bad modern joints don't let it bite you in the ass
My first "old school " thought was, points and/or condenser, and it was, sort of, lol. In re to the low crank issue. I've found that on Chrysler/Dodge vehicles that they will crank with less than 12volts but not start. I was told that the ECU needs at least 12v to operate. So, the charge enabled the computer to turn on. It was, indeed flooded but the initial voltage is critical. Ive found this to be the case many times. So thought I'd pass it along.
Great video!!