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Curing Train stopping on points/turnouts
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- čas přidán 3. 10. 2020
- We had problems running out Bachmann Ivatt train over old Pecco settrack 100 points/turnouts. In this video we show how we overcame that problem.
I know I'm three years late but your post came up and I have had the same problem. My locomotive is a small 4-6-0 yard locomotive, Bachmann in Canada. The drive wheels are quite small so it would stall the same as yours when crossing the frog. I loosen the screws as you did and it now works great giving the drivers a small bit of play. Thanks again.
I have just come across the video so sorry for the late post. I have a DCC 00 layout with 22 points only 3 of which are live frog. The remainder are either very old Hornby or new Peco. I have a lot of problems with my 0-6-0 tanks, (all 3) obviously with short wheel bases and this is on both the Hornby and Peco dead frog points. Unfortunately, I never know whether this is caused by a temporary short or by the wheels riding up on the points. I tried the keeper plate loosening trick a year or two ago but with not much success. I have just received a 2cm long spirit level which I hope will show me whether points are level but those are all screwed down tight in several places on a completely flat baseboard. I also use graphite. One thing I have not done is to insert screws either side of the frog as is suggested by one of your commenters. So that's the next step. Your video has been extremely useful because I had run out of ideas. Did the guy who sanded down the Peco frogs have success or did he ruin the points?
I have found the same problem with some of my set track Peco points. I have got round it by drilling into the sleepers either side of the frog and securing with Pico track screws which will pull down that raised area, this has worked for me.
great information
Thanks glad you liked it
Does this work with the graham farish locos on kato track to?
I have had these problems, and I find that points (even new Peco ones) have a 'crown' at the frog, but have never tried bending them, tho' this may cure it , then each end of 'said' point may lift at the adjoining connection, to overcome my problem I have screwed down the sleeper one or other side of the frog and slightly packed the opposing side about 1mm, trouble is as I run many different makes, so each loco has its own peculiarities and temperament! plus most of mine are old Tri-ang, Hornby etc., - 50 years some, but only 1 Bachman and thats poor runner, yes live frogs are the answer but to replace mine (16) would be expensive.
Well yes our points are old Peco one's and it would be outside our budget to replace them. Thanks for your comment. We are going to to do another video on the subject soon.
Peco points/turnouts are rubbish in regard to electrical contact to sidings in analogue N scale, ruined the running of a layout I had put a lot of work into. I am using Kato HO track for the layout I am working on now, It is completely reliable and has no electrical problems, it has a built in point motor which saves a lot of bother and is easily ballasted to hide the trackbed. Has the DCC option built in. It can be used easily together with other code 83 track, just remove the Kato connectors and use ordinary rail joiners. The Kato N scale track is also problem free.
Wow!!! Big thanks for the info. We are doing another video based on what people have said so we will include your advice. Thanks for commenting :)
The basic problem is the lack of proper wheel bearings and tender pick-ups on most Bachmann loco's. I don't have any of these problems with Hornby nor other make like Roco, Piko, Fleischmann. Needless to say that the track & each point need a proper feeder for the fish-plate connections are bad conductors. Proper track maintenance helps a lot of avoiding problems of stalling too.I prefer the 'graphite' application. Success.
@barnabyjoy I wrote: wheel bearings. This means the wheel axle turns in a bearing at each side that sit in the under frame so there is less friction. Only Bachmann uses the axles to turn direct in a slot of the under frame resulting in a lot of friction and wear. But here the main problem is the lack of tender pick-ups.
Yes, we've added pick ups to the tender. Thanks for your reply
@@electronicstrainsandthings4149 have you tried seeing if theres a pinch point that grabs the flange, created by the bow in the plastic making the gap between rail and check rail a little tight? That could explain more so why bending it out to flat helps as it would slightly open up this gap. That would explain why giving the wheels a little bit of extra side play would be helping you out if it was the cass that it was grabbing the flange of the centre wheel set
A very narrow-minded response. Just because you only have problems with Bachmann, means nothing to me, as I have these problems with Hornby, Dapol and Bachmann. So, 1) you're lucky and 2) you're wrong.
@@skelligringphotographyandw7012 check the back to back gauge of everything, check the gauge on the points. Problems usually lie here. And remember, even real trains derail sometimes its never perfect even for the big boys
It’s called the frog and you can fix this by applying power to the frog
What loco is? Very nice.
I must be lucky with all my Loco's, Hornby Bachmann and Dalpol but would never buy Hornby points
Yes I must admit I am suprised how much problems we are having but I incorrectly said the Ivat model had 6 pick ups when in fact it only has 4 which means when the model 'Rocks on two whells the picks don't necessarily touch the rails! Glad it's goin wel for you :)
My locos stop going over a point onto my fiddle yard and it's like there's no power going to the section after the point and it won't go any further and stops just after the point. Could it be the plastic frogs? What can I do to fix it?
We are going to make another video on the subject and we look at your problem as well. Thanks for your comment
@@electronicstrainsandthings4149 That's great! Look forward to seeing it and it will be posted soon?
Just saw this now..
I may be wrong but, loosening the plate under the driver axles makes me wonder if it'd eventually cause problems with the gears up inside not fully meshing and wearing down..I could be totally wrong though...Just sayin'...
Stalls are usually caused by a short wheel base loco where either + or - bearing wheel gets right atop an insulator at either end of the switch frog.. Not sure if DC as well as DCC locos can have 'keep alive' installed..But that certainly is the answer in DCC, anyway; the capacitor circuit which powers the motor while traversing dead spots in rails...
I did though enjoy your video and gave you 'like' # 198 as your take on the problem is just as important.. Thanks...
Big thanks for your advice. What I didn't explain was the train actually 'rocked on two wheels at the point where it stalled. The points are very old! We have opted to adding pickups to the tender but we haven't given the train a good run yet. We've had to take a long break but back into it again. Love the feedback and thanks. Ernie and Louis
your problems the trains pickups - even if one wheel looses contact the other pick ups should be working including (Im presuimg from the wires) tender.. Turn the loco upside down and check each pick up wheel systematically one by one using a wires from the controller.. Maybe as simple as gently bending them back to make contact/rub with the wheel back
Big thanks for your advice. What I didn't explain was the train actually 'rocked on two wheels at the point where it stalled. The points are very old! We have opted to adding pickups to the tender but we haven't given the train a good run yet. We've had to take a long break but back into it again. Love the feedback and thanks. Ernie and Louis
yea...no. not ripping up tracks and bending them.
Well, yes totally agree, we were experimenting and the track is old so not to worried about the damage it may do, but. . . . Thanks for your comment
Simple, change your point’s/switches to live frog and you won’t have that problem.
Which are much more expensive and difficult to install
These points are very old and we don't have the money to upgrade! But thanks for advice. We have opted to adding pickups to the tender but we haven't given the train a good run yet. We've had to take a long break but back into it again. Ernie and Louis
It seems to me that you have a problem with the pickups which is being shown up by the track.
Big thanks for your advice. What I didn't explain was the train actually 'rocked on two wheels at the point where it stalled. The points are very old! We have opted to adding pickups to the tender but we haven't given the train a good run yet. We've had to take a long break but back into it again. Love the feedback and thanks. Ernie and Louis
All that can be easily solved with "Power packs".
Thanks for tip. This local only has two pick ups each side and we like your idea of a powerpack. In the end we added some pickups to the tender. Cheers
Make your own live-frog points.
Your problem would be solved if you had feeder wire to the track and have the track actually on some sort of roadbed and nail in place
we have screwed the track down now and as you said the situation has improved. We are pushing the boundries by trying to power the whole layout from one power poin, see how it goes! Thanks for your reply :)