HOW TO: PIN THE CRANK-SUPERCHARGED LS (NO MORE SLIP = MORE BOOST AND HP) FULL RESULTS
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- HOW TO FIX SLIPPING CRANK ON SUPERCHARGED MOTOR. PIN CRANK. CHECK OUT THIS HOW TO VIDEO ON PINNING THE CRANK ON A SUPERCHARGED LS MOTOR (WORKS ANY MANY OTHER ENGINE APPLICATIONS). DRIVING THE BLOWER PUTS STRAIN ON THE PRESS-FIT DAMPER. TO MUCH DRAG AND THE DAMPER SPINS ON THE CRANK. THIS VIDEO SHOWS HOW TO CURE IT AND WHAT HAPPENS TO BOOST AND POWER WHEN YOU DO. CHECK IT OUT.
Hats off to the hardest working man that makes it look easy. Making power is like second nature to you Richard
Wish I had pinned the crank on my old 6.0L Silverado! It slipped the pulley on the crank! Fell off when I was driving one day. Luckily no damage, other than the destroyed pulled. Two weeks later the new crank pulley exploded!
my balancer wobbled off my 5.3 and ruined both the crank and balancer. never re use tty bolts. pinned the crank and all is good
You'd think gm would fix it. Mine slipped on my bone stock C5. I wind up pinning every LS I get now
Thanks Richard. That seems odd that there are no keyways like a 53 235. The billet crank for my blown I6 292 that Crower made me has 2 keyways and that's just for my little 6-71. Love your videos.
Would like to see a video of your 292!
I’m just waiting for someone to say you need to rebalance the bottom end. 😮 🍿 🤪
Reuse the old TTY bolt and give it 5 ugga ugga’s! Sounds easy!
Yeah , na . Pulled one down for lifters , they'd done that on cam install.
Took a fully charged snap on 1/2 and was contemplating heating it when it finally came out like a wobbly sausage.
Stretched the bolt thread to 2.25 but didn't mess with it. Just pulled the entire thread out the nose of the crank instead 😂
Really like the PD blower content.
Interesting, some people say to put rtv on the crank pin to prevent oil from seeping out?
Badass torque curve.
reusing a crank bolt and torqueing it to 3 ugga duggas.... nice
The balancer on my stock 02 Z06 came loose, then the balancer on my 6.0 7875 swapped GN came loose...so now I bought the jig and I drill and pin the balancer on every swap I've worked on. Also anyone who has experienced the issue I recommend they pin when they install a replacement balancer, even a stock engine. If the loose/spinning balancer took off even .001 worth of material from the crank then it will hold worse than stock. It's also really difficult to achieve the factory torque spec with home tools and without removing the starter to install a flywheel stop.
All right I have not even watch the video yet but from the title I'm getting the impression that the keyway on the crank pulley is causing the superchargers not to spool up I don't know if I'm right I don't know if I'm wrong but I got a gut feeling what is going to happen when I hit play here at 2 seconds
didnt realize how easy that is, or at least looked. thanks for the info !!
The idea is very basic. But I can tell you first hand that if the crankshaft is forged that it takes A LOT of drilling. A very slow process.
A FORGED CRANK PROBABLY ALREADY HAS KEY WAY
@@richardholdener1727Hi Richard!Correct, they do, and the ATI damper has the key-way to match. But I still pinned mine in addition to the key. I've been hurt before 🤣🤣🤣
Also even if a forged crank has a key way a stock damper does not
Very simple, very cool!
Can't defer how to line up the in the future has to be on to line up Dauls
has to line up every install after you pin
this makes me nervous I have been trying to chase down a squeal at wot for about 5-6 years wonder if its the crank, and balancer has gone to the parts bin in the sky
I didn't expect the damper isn't keyed on these, a new one for me. Still though, there must be a torque spec?
37 FT/LBS, then an additional 140 degrees. (Of clockwise rotation)
They didn't designe the front pulley assy. to transmit the 30 odd Hp to drive a supercharger
@@gothicpagan.666 they did on the LSA, but the accessory drive belt is a vibrational dampener, not a balancer, like a Gen 1 or 2 smallblock. I wouldn't be surprised if the blower eats more power than that.
its a lot more than 30 hp
@@gothicpagan.666 the accessories on a ls1 f body is about 35hp based on 1/4 mile mph testing by hotrod. The tvs on the C7 ZR1 alone uses 110hp. This blower is probably using close to 80hp to drive.
Ummm, if the crank pulley spins on the crankshaft it will loosen the bolt. How many seconds can the crank pulley slip on the crank before they friction weld together?
we were getting there
Do you always use an impact to torque the bolt down on your demo's? What setting did you use on the Milwaukee?
3 GOING ON-4 COMING OFF
How easy is it to reinstall pin/balancer on crankshaft after removing it. Is re aligning the holes difficult?
NO PROB
What would be the process for replacing a balancer after you have already pinned the crank?
LINE IT UP WITH THE PIN AND RE INSTALL OR RE PIN IN ANOTHER SPOT
For keyed applications like a Big Block Chevy or Small Block Chevy, do you recommend this (pinning) over a 2nd Key?
DUAL KEYS BUT THAT HAS TO BE DONE TO THE CRANK BEFORE INSTALL
@@richardholdener1727 thank you for taking the time to reply!!
ATI sells a good fixture to do it the other direction and you can install slotted dampeners, without making a custom matched crank and dampener pair like this.
You can also dual pin it 180 degree apart
we have run those as well when running an ati damper on a stock crank
Problem solved, now just need to find one of these blowers
Check the stsv owners group on Facebook. I sold my extra one for cheap. I miss my stsv too lol sold it a few months ago
Hello Richard
After watching the video halfway through nine out of 10 people would just tighten the belt they would ignore the squealing noise and think that is just something that is not important because when you tighten the belt it goes away harmonic balancers do a job that was designed from the factory it was never designed to run a supercharger using that particular part
Does installing a pin to the crankshaft throws the balance off? Has anyone ever noticed a vibration or maybe bearing wear a lot sooner?
The difference between the original weight of the material removed and the weight of the pin itself would be minimal, plus the pin is very close to the crank's centreline. I would think it's a non-issue for this type of application.
NO ISSUE
Which bolt did you use after the install is it a special one ???
That’s longer ?
stock bolt or arp
Where you get that tool for pinning the crank Rich??
TORQSTORM
@Richard Holdener What about the 3.8L supercharger you tested on this engine (eaton m90). Do you think it was loosing power due to crank slippage.
Especially since it was already being over-spun to begin with
maybe
So was pulley slippage the issue with the 6.0 and caddy blower?
no sir-we pinned it
@@richardholdener1727 ok. Are you going to try to figure out what happened?
When is an ATI super damper necessary richard?..
I like them for a variety of reasons-but not sure on necessary point
What if you have a key instead??
FACTORY CRANKS DON'T HAVE THOSE-BUT AFTER MARKET CRANKS DO-ATI HAS A PIN KIT FOR RUNNING A KEYED DAMPER ON A STOCK CRANK
Some people are content if their pulley and crank are keyed. Mine were keyed and I still drilled and pinned 180° from the key. Fyi it is much more difficult to drill a forged crank but still doable, just takes longer.
Lil 283 getting it
Do you just use one pin? Can you drill 2 pins the jig has 2 holes?
YES YOU CAN
Personally I blame John Woodworth
Isn't the damper supposed to spin? I mean it's circular with a belt groove in it, it makes sense that it's supposed to spin.
Lol cant tell if trolling or not
@@e36blur FR it's a clever troll comment.
Damn...... he's good
I cant believe they don't put a key in at GM.
You know what's worse than a neutral balance damper that drives a powersteering pump not pinned or keyed? Mazda mzr has smooth bore crank and cam sprockets... Ya, I know.
Friction fit baby.
Press fits (no keys) are better at transmitting torque. Only key it if you have to have it clocked in a specific way.
@@2lotusman851 I'd like to hear about the physics behind why a press fit is "better" at transmitting torque.
Especially considering this video blatantly proves the opposite.
Press fit slipped, pin fixed it.
@@2lotusman851 friction fit needs a friction washer to work at these loads. You key a washer to the bolt face with a carbide or diamond surface. The infinite adjustment is nice and is used on one kind of Mod motor, I can't remember if it's Romeo or Windsor, and for the lower loads of a camshaft it usually works. Friction drives are designed to slip in overload condition to save parts from breaking and are not reliable for shock loaded setups that must remain 100% timed. Shear pins are a better idea here, where it disables the equipment instead of allowing it to continue operating in a failure state.
Keyways are high stress and make the base structure weaker. That's how a backfire with a blower can shear the nose off the crank. If the blower pulley would slip for a second during overload, that problem is gone.
Driving flats are usually easier to machine on both ends, think coyote oil pump, don't create a stress focus and are actually stronger for high radial thickness and high hardness material. If you need strong and accurate timed drives, you use splines. A single key is used on cam drives, damper drives and the like because it can be done in a single step on a mill without any R&D. It's cheap, it works but it's far from the best.
The pinned pulley with a serpentine belt isn't a big deal, the belt can slip if overload occurs. It's also really cheap and easy to do. The Ls9, Lt4 and lt5 facrory supercharged engines have keyed dampeners. GM realised when you try to drive 100hp through a belt somethings got to change.
Personally I blame squirrels
Had a big Hawk in the back yard yesterday! No squirrels to be found!
@@randallmason9687 😳
Yeah, but was it Hudson Hawk?
In before someone starts crying about reusing the bolt....
well, it's a TTY, so yeah.
You saw how Richard did it, lol, Milwaukee cordless impact, and several ugga duggas.
@@jamesgeorge4874 LMAO murican way
they are infinitely reusable
They are torque to freedom bolts