Volvo S60 V70 XC90 Heater core matrix replacement - left hand driving 2001-2009
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- PLEASE READ THE PINNED COMMENT. Put the cabin heater to maximum heat before starting. DON'T ROTATE the steering ! At 6:10 Steering shaft wing screw part #987281: torque 30 Nm (22 ft.lb). Always insert this screw with the head up as shown in the video with the steering wheel centered. It's important to tighten this bolt at the exact specified torque and make sure the steering wheel and front wheels DON'T ROTATE while they are not connected (lock the steering by removing the key). Otherwise it will damage the SAS clock spring sensor and throw an Anti-Skid message.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
******* IMPORTANT ***** READ BEFORE STARTING
BE SURE not to rotate the steering wheel while disconnected ! This will damage the Steering angle sensor (Anti-skid and or Airbag error messages)
TURN THE HEAT KNOB to FULL heat with the ignition ON. This moves a blend door linkage away from the heater core so you don't break it
You can fully pull down and out the steering column but be sure to mark it so it goes back at the exact same rotation
I inserted back the upper clip from the right side
Important: At 6:10 Steering shaft wing screw part #987281: torque 22ft-lbs (30 Nm). This is a safety bolt, tighten using a torque wrench and insert the bolt from above (nut at the bottom).
People had trouble inserting back the lower clip. FLATTEN the clips after removal, and don't bend the pipes too much. If the clips are not perfectly flat, they won't go back in there. Inside the engine bay remove the bolt and the metal plate at the firewall between the two coolant rubber hoses to the heater core, then inside the car look up and cut a zip tie at the two metal pipes: the metal pipes inside will then move easier away from the heater core. If the clip still doesn't go back in, the pipe end may not be flush with the heater core opening - it may be slightly rotated either vertically or horizontally. Keep the pipe pressed against the heater core while inserting the clip but make sure the pipe opening sits really flat with the hc opening (may try pushing it with a flat screw driver). I inserted back the upper clip from the right side. May also lube the seals with synthetic silicone grease.
At 28:50 don't cut that plastic piece, once disconnected push upwards the coupler - you can actually also pull it downwards and remove completely the steering shaft, however be sure to mark it first at the upper spline and to insert back at the same position, and also make sure the steering wheel and the front wheels don't rotate when it's sitting disconnected - you will damage the clock spring sensor and get an Anti-Skid message ($$)
You may try to just drain the coolant reservoir, instead of draining the entire coolant system. BE SURE to disconnect first the electrical connector at the sensor under the reservoir so you don't stretch the sensor wire (it will damage it), lift the reservoir (it may be stuck on the P/S reservoir), and drain it.
It is an awkward body position and may hurt your back/neck.
If you need to disconnect the rubber hoses at the firewall czcams.com/video/FNdgdMmiNvE/video.html If you want, you can disconnect one of these hoses, and blow air through the opening in the firewall: this will blow out coolant through the other hose and empty the heater core enough so it won't spill when you disconnect the metal pipes.
RIGHT HAND DRIVING CARS (UK, AU, etc), a piece of the dash and of the air filter box needs to be cut to remove the matrix. See this forum www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=94286 and pic www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/download/file.php?id=55010&t=1
I've had a huge struggle with getting the o-rings/tubes seated properly (discussed at 35:30). Tapping it with a hammer didn't work that well for me as I couldn't get enough clearance. What I ended up doing is balancing a big flathead screwdriver, covered the tip with some rubber (inner bicycle tire in my case), on the "notch" of the aluminium pipe and tapped the end of the flathead screwdriver. After 2 hours of trying to get them seated properly without avail, this did the trick within 3 minutes. As always, thanks for the great video Peppermint!
For anybody who is struggling to get those retainer clips back in place:
If your oring and hoses did not sit flush into the hole, those mfing clamps won't go in no matter how hard you force them in. I've done whole job in roughly two hours and wasted another two days trying to get those retainers back in. Do not try to grease any part of the core or orings. It won't work and from my experience, thin oil makes things worse. Flatten your pins as much as you can. I didn't have a silicone based lube and I couldn't find it anywhere in my country. I used strawberry flawored nivea chapstick on them instead. That stuff worked like a charm! Lubed everything, orings, pipes holes and those pins went in like i haven't wasted my two days! Also make sure to align hoses perfectly to the holes. Also, Thx for the creator of this video, I couldn't do it without this one.
Edit: I also didn't have to disconnect the steering wheel unit at all, though i bent some fins on the new core at least i didn't have to reassemble that part.
This made me post because of the brake switch explanation. Thank you so much for your help and taking the time to explain. Choosing to DIY these jobs, it can be a nightmare when you can't figure something simple out. People like you help maintain us being able to work on our own vehicle. Thank you!
Much appreciate the feedback!
I just finished getting the heater core back in. I did not have to remove the steering wheel bolt. That was a good thing because I was having trouble with it. The brake switch info was very important, and useful. I would never have gotten it off without this video. I did cut the lower lip of the heater core enclosure with a small die grinder and used a zip tie to hold back the heater core tubes.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video - very well done! I will be changing my heater core soon.
This was a huge help to getting this job done, many thanks for putting this out there! Everything was spot on, and your detailed brake switch info surely helped prevent me from breaking the mounting tabs - awesome! The only place I deviated was that I did not drain coolant. Instead I used 2 hose pinch pliers, clamped the heater hoses going into the car, removed the quick disconnect and the mounting plate on the firewall. This also has the added benefit of freeing up one end of the rigid aluminum tubing. I then cut the tie wrap that binds both tubes at the top so that when I removed the tubing from the heater core the tubes move about quite easily - no need to bend anything and they get right out of the way. The added info on removing the steering knuckle was also great to know in advance. REmoval was a snap - and not having that out of the way would have made removal and install a giant PITA. Nicely done!
Thanks for the trick without bending the metal tubes. I also recommend people read my comment with 'Please read' for more infos
Thanks so much Tim as your suggestion along with Peppermints video make the job relatively easy except for the confined working space from with the drivers floor well. Thanks again.
Excellent tips that I did not find on other channels.
Thanks for this. Worked perfectly. A couple of comments: the brake switch does not need to be disconnected; just duct tape over the switch to keep the lights off and tuck it out of the way. Also, one of the clips can be put in from the other side - much easier to access and won't affect anything. Took me an hour and a half in total.
Thanks for the tips!
I replaced mine today and I struggled for over two hours to get the damn pipe clips back in and it was just impossible to get them properly seated. Then I realized I had put on the o-rings dry, so I applied the absolute tiniest amount of grease and then they slipped right in and seated properly. The clips went in just as easy now. Ugh. Now I see you've actually mentioned it in the pinned comment :D
Before you run out and spend your $$$s to buy a new heater core (make sure you buy the correct model, there are two versions; blue thin and square-ish & brown Battlestar Galactica), first check to see if the two O-rings on the aluminum tubes that feed the core have not dried out and cracked from the heat over the 10-20 years since these models were produced. That's a $5 cost vs a $300. Other than using water only instead of coolant and living in a sub-zero climate, there is little that will cause these units to fail, though apparently one core model would separate its plastic side housing from the coil & fins (reported to have been corrected in new models).
Everything about this job is a pain in the ass, or your back. Before beginning, disconnect the battery so you don't get any codes. You'll have to remove the driver's seat to get your body in there, and with the seat out, it's best to remove the carpeting, (which requires removing the door sill, snaps out, and console, remove plastic retaining screw, side panels) cause stuff will spill. Note the direction the aluminum tube clips go in. Seating the tubes and getting the clips back in is one of the hardest aspects of the job. If the car doesn't start, you probably didn't set-up the brake kill switch mechanism correctly. Good luck!
Great video, especially the details on the brake unit. That saved me! For the heating core clips, I recommend using long reach 90 degree angled needle nose pliers. It gets in there perfectly and provides a great deal of leverage.
This is such a fantastic video thanks. Too bad it doesn't show at top of search results for V70 heater core. Instead you get Farpoint Farms video, which gives bad advice! About the clamping of supply hoses at the firewall: that is unnecessary, as these supply lines go over a "high point" in the system. Thus, unless the system is pressurized, no extra coolant will flow towards the heater core, when it is disconnected. You only need to clamp the hoses, if you intend to start the car, with the heater core out (ask me how I know!). Thanks for this excellent video, it is the best for clarity and detail.
Another advice is to spray the rubber o-rings with silicone lubricant so that it would become more easier to install the pipes.
Thank you for this very detailed DIY video. Besides torquing my into uncomfortable positions the instructions where spot on!
Excellent video. I will be referring back to it when I replace the heater core in my V70R. Thank you for contributing this knowledge.
Great video! Thank you! Good to know we don't have to cut the shroud for the heater core when removing it and replacing it! Makes this an easier task! Cheers!
Glad it helped!
Thanks a lot for detailed video. This is very useful. For the right-hand driven car, the pipes to the heater core stay on the same side (left side) but to remove the heater core, we have to remove from the driver side (right side).
Thanks for another awesome video.
Had to replace the o-rings on the heater core pipes today and found that in right-hand drive cars you need to remove the glove box to gain more access.
Removing and replacing the clips was the hardest part of the job and in total the job took about 4 hours.
Top tip: hammering the pipes back into place (so the o-rings were fully seated) didn't work ONLY levering them into position worked for me.
bigbluechopper im trying to do this job on my right hand drive s60 but after removing the glove box i find the dash is in the way .did you remove the dash . how did you get round this ?
@@charlieoscar2714 I did not have to remove the dash, but as part of removing the glove box some of the dash comes off with it.
Here are some photos of what it looked like:
u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=kZGtMUkZEgOjNoqQ6duFqAhuveeiD4BQjyQ7
@@bigbluechopper24 thanks.. the right bottom of the dash looks like it will prevent it from coming out . it must be super tight .im thinking of cutting that bottom bit of the dash off and making it super easy
@@charlieoscar2714 I think it should come out ok.
But I just replaced the o-rings and didn't replace the heater core.
@@bigbluechopper24 well the dash had to come off .. not good
Thanks so much Peppermint for this fantastic video plus Tim Hollands suggestion on removing the quick connects and firewall mounting plate to allow for ease of moving the connected pipes at the heater core. Between both of you, you make the job not really that difficult albeit its quite a confined space to work from within the drivers floor well. Kudos to both of you... great job guys!!
Thanks this is the best video on CZcams for replacing the heatercore
Thank you for this video! It made replacing the heatercore so easy. And yes, pulling the steering rod down a bit, made the core come out and go back in without putting stress on it. Also, you dont need to drain the fluid before disconnecting the pipes. The only fluid escaping will come from the core itself, not the pipes... Thanks again! 👍
Great feedback, thanks!
Just curious. You’re saying I don’t need to drain coolant from the engine bay the way he did? Thanx!
@@luddel4747 Yes, exactly. Just let the pressure from the system (open/close filler cap) before dismantling the core, and youll be fine. There might be some minimal leakage, but nothing you cant handle with a towel or something similar. Most of the coolant will drip from the core it self.
Huge thanks to you, saved me from buying a new heater core, my 2001 S60 started leaking through the seals of the heater core and didn`t know what to expect or to do for like 3 months. The whole carpet got stained from the coolant and my specific problem was that there was coolant on the side of the carpet, under the heater core, the pipes weren`t wet from coolant, but the spot where you point at 0:50 in the video was wet. Huge thanks to you again!
Glad it helped
Great video, good to know about the steering couple.
Great instructional video Peppermint, much appreciated. I didn't drain any coolant, the reservoir was about half full, the other half was in my drivers side floorboard. Once disconnected the amount of coolant draining was minimal, plastic bag in the floorboard did the trick
I used needle nosed vise grips to assist in reinstalling the clips.
Install the bottom clip opposite the way it came out, it's just easier. When reinstalling the brake light switch you'll have to move the pedal away from the switch bracket in order to clear the tabs.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the video. So helpful. One quick tip is if you're having trouble getting the tubes back in far enough to seat with the new o-rings put a little o-ring grease or bulb grease on them and they'll seat right in. Use a silicon based grease -- don't use a petroleum based grease as that will degrade the o-rings over time and possibly cause leaks.
Thanks for the tip Frank!
Excellent detail! I love the cat’s commentary too. Thank you so much!
Welcome
I've watched many of your vids, thank you.
Welcome!
Huge thanks, this video was perfect and saved a bunch of cash doing DIY.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this video, turned a P.i.t.a. job into an easy one!
Appreciate the feedback Rien
Great video, saved my day. Was not 100% sure the heat core was my problem as the flow seemed good when I flushed it through. Both Al-tubes at heat core were also hot BUT the side of heat core was cold,-good thing the check before replacement. A piece of wood and a plastic wedge between the break pedal and al-tubes was a good help when inserting the clips. //Emil, Gothenburg SE
Interesting detail. You mean the plastic side that is exposed under the pipes connections, was cold to the touch ?
Thank you so much for a great video and your honesty! Many thanks from Sweden!
Cheers!
Important: At 6:10 Steering shaft wing screw part #987281: torque 30 Nm (22 ft.lb). Always insert this screw with the head up as shown in the video with the steering wheel centered. This screw is a shear bolt that will snap in case of a crash so the steering column doesn't push the steering wheel towards the driver. So important to tighten it at the exact specified torque.
This is a perfect 9.9 out of ten! Very detailed descriptive! I just wonder about one thing, but that maybe because of the MJ of that model: I do own a 2005 MJ and only have to loosen a screw right under the lower right front to let drain out the radiator instead of "see nothing and break my hand" behind the manifold ;). This screw can be found here: If you stand in front of your car, go down on your knees and take a closer look under the right front where the splash shield shows a round whole. When you look inside you will see an Allen bolt inside there. Loosen this screw gently fo a few turns and the coolant will flow. You don't have to remove the screw completely. Wait until the desired amount of coolant has drained and then close it again.
True, we can bleed the radiator at the lower right radiator drain valve. Sometimes this plastic screw can break upon loosening it (perhaps because some garages would have tightened it too much). It needs tightened 'finger tight', being made of plastic it gets brittle with time, it can be fragile (some had the bad luck to break it, but it can be replaced). But the reason for going with the block valve drain was to drain only a part of the coolant, just enough to empty the reservoir. Cheers!
Used this video as instruction which made the heater core switch easy. Heat is back on! A tip on the bent clips is to use the old heater core as a "template to get the clip in correct form. Also used a hammer to lightly flatten the clip. Once the clip slides easily into the old heater core, go and use it on the replaced one to secure the tubes.
Its easier to try and fit the clip on the old once its out than laying under the steering wheel and trying to fit it 😅
Great video!
You explained the process of removing the heater core very well.
Another CZcamsr who did this job said that you don't have to drain the coolant from the block because the heater hoses sit quite high in the firewall. Therefore not much coolant will come out of the pipes when you disconnect them from the heater core.
Great tip with the steering coupler!
I am happy that replacing the heater core on these Volvo's is quite easy to do. With most other cars you have to disassemble the whole dashboard. This is a very good design from Volvo I think.
It is still very difficult to remove on right hand driving cars - basically they need to cut into the dashboard - I've put a link in the top comment. The older Volvo before 2000 had common issues with the heater core and they had to remove indeed the entire dash, there recent Behr cores are much more lasting (but hey can still clog usually from wrong coolant mixture)
@@Peppermint1 can these heatercores still going to leak?
You said that the o rings on the pipes can going to leak?
Thank you for the quick response.
@@anfahrt I see on cars from 2001-2002 very very small leaks at the o-rings. But not at the heater itself. I think it's not at all a concern, at least not if the unit is the original Behr
Disconnected the steering joint like you advised. Extended the steering wheel out as far as it would go. Wiggled the old core out without damage and reinstalled the new one. Might have bent a few fins but it slide in. Those clips are a pain in the ass. Reinstalled the the brake switch like you said 👍🏼👍🏼Perfect no damage. I'll post up pics of the tools that I used. Thanks for the help👍🏼👍🏼.
Great feedback, thanks
How did you get the clips in?
I wanted to say thank you so much for the help I’m working on my car and you’re my go to person on videos when it comes to working on my vehicle because you go into precise details which I had to have . After doing this job in that Position in that little bitty space for that long kind of thinking 🤔 if I want to do another job lol I got my steering shaft I’m doing and then I’m doing a tuneup. .
Very good detailed video.
swing the coupler and the core slips right out! thanks for your video.
Excellent, thanks for confirming
You did a great job. This is complete manual/ instruction. I helped me a lot. Thank You.
BTW, it is better to press and tie clutch pedal to get more space for operation.
Thanks for the info about the clutch pedal
Thank you Royale with cheese, for your explanation on removing the brake pedal switch.
Without it I may have damaged it, extremely helpful.
Glad it helped!
I just finished replacing my heater core thanks to your great video.
Hero's do exist and I have encountered one -Royale with cheese, Thank you Again.
Cheers!
Great video! Job done in 2hrs. Hardest part is getting the clips back in. Wedged a screw driver again tube to keep it in place while inserting clip. Thanks
Justin, glad it helped. If the clip flat and straight (it bends when it's being removed so it needs to be flatten and straighten back with a pliers), and if the pipe is fully pushed into the heater core, the clip will slide in very easily, basically just pushing it with two fingers.
I am totally stuck right ow trying to get the lower clip back on. The tube just won’t go in far enough even hitting it with a hammer. I sure hope this works when I finally get it in there. 😝
Great video!!
Bro I wanna say thank you man. I follow every thing step by step. I even did the same errors that you did as well lol. I should have watched the video before anything but yeah man you an your cat are Good it worked out I did mine as well just yesterday man I have a Volvo S80 an the core was cracked you are my new mechanic now lol
I'm happy you got it fixed and it helped!
Realy nicely Explained Video. Good job mate. 100% (y)
Great clear video tutorial, great knowledge 😁 Your cat is also very knowledgeable 😼
Thanks! 😊
Hello. Thank you for the video and it helped alot. But there is a very important thing you dont mention. When you demount the steering rack or pole, its very important to secure the steering wheel, so it doesnt move, so if you move it, like i did there is something that breaks inside the steering wheel that causes a srs airbag fault. Now that part have to be changed aswell. This will happen on all cars, so please secure the steering wheel before taking it apart. Otherwise the video was a big help but those clips on the pipes arre really hard to get out and put in again. I gave up after using the wrong o rings. My mechanic did the rest and told me that i messed up with airbag thingy that broke. Thank you again for the Video.
Very true. I've actually mentioned this in another video about the steering coupler, but forgot to mention it in this video. It's the Steering angle sensor SAS that gets damaged if the steering is turned while disconnected. I'm adding this point in the pinned comment.
@@Peppermint1 Thank you, i wish i saw the that video before i did this :) but thank you for taking it to your attension.
Good video very good explanation thanks 👍
Thank you so much , really it’s helpful
I am a technician but I am just following all the steps what you did was quite right
By the way you should be automotive teacher
I appreciate your patient and thanks again
Hope you gonna make other videos too
Cheers
Thank u so much!!! You make my day God bless u
Welcome
Really good video
Thanks perfect explanation
Thank's for this video. I have problem to put again this pipes, they are very stiff. Position under steering wheel is very uncomfortable. I hope tomorrow I'll finish this. I broke one of arm of flaps during taking out heater core.
Hi, have a look at the comment bellow, from CZcams member Tim Holland, it will help with the pipes. As for the climate control arm, I think it can be replaced - indeed it needs a bit of attention to have the heating to the max so as to move the arm away when disconnecting the pipes
Great video, thank you!!!!
Thanks for excellent video!!!
👍👍
Thank you thank you thank you. This video gave me the confidence to fix it myself. I got it done but inserting those clips back is the second layer of hell. Just a word of caution. Also, putting silicone grease on the o ring makes inserting the pipes a little easier. And helps it seal too. Also, I bent one of the pipes and felt one give so I'm hoping I didn't mess up the other connection. Fingers crossed :0. Thanks again!
Oh also, I just changed my o rings and not the heater core. So I didnt end up taking the brake sensor and steering column out.
And I drained the coolant through the radiator petcock instead of that other location. It worked just fine and I didnt get much coolant coming out of the heater core.
RadioactvPanda - why do you say not to put silicone grease on silicone o rings? Is it better to use petroleum grease on the silicone o rings?
@@stevemccooleq I would imagine it would degrade the Silicone o ring. But I'm not sure. That's just my intuition! I would say petroleum grease on Silicone is probably fine? But do what you're most comfortable with doing. I'm no expert by any means.
Hello! Thank you so much for this video! I do that an I don't understand very good english!
Cheers! Also read the comment section, for helpful tips
Dear Peppermint, thank you for your perfect videos! I have an European S60 D5 from 2006 and already some time the heating is very weak. As the motor sometimes never achieved the proper working temperature and the hose going to the front cooler was warm almost since starting the car my first choice was the thermostat. Indeed the termostat was faulty and now the cooler works properly and the engine heats up quickly. However the heating didn't improve. Now when I touch the two heater hoses going into the car (with heating on max and fans high), one is very hot and the second is mildly warm. This leads me to belief that the heater core is clogged and I should go ahead and replace it. Do you think this logic is correct? Thank you again for all the info you are sharing and for your great work!
Thanks for the help! A trick I use is to drain coolant then fill with water. Then spills are not such an issue.
Great tip!
Trouble getting the tubes in and seating the inner clip? This worked for me: Silicone lube firstly. Then use a pair of pliers (i used a Leatherman actually) with blunt edges. Open it slightly. Then use it to push on the ”lip” of the metal pipe by using both hands while lying on your back. This method finally made it ”click” in place after hours of hammering, pushing and swearing.
PS. I did not drain any coolant. Just drained it slow from the pipe in a tray.
Thank you for the video. I just managed to replace the heater core of my 2005 Volvo S60 thanks to this video. I unintentionally bent the fins a little while installing the new heater core, but in the end it works fine. Unfortunately, I broke one of the arms you showed at 3:26. The heater is not blowing hot air when the arm is broken. But AC works fine. I glued the broken arm with a super glue, it works for now but I'm not sure it will last long. How can I find the part number of the arm? Is it sold separately?
Others had the same issue with the arm, I would try at a breakers/junkyard or ask on a Volvo forum such as www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=187aae7b3cd89663e5a2334b3e6888f7 if the part can be purchased
Mine is leaking so I'm about to change it by myself. Thanks for explanation and pro-tips! Any solution to clean up this messy fluid from the carpet?
edit: the job is done. Thanks for creating such a detailed video.
Did you change just the seals or the whole core? Thanx
Thank's for the video. So About brake pedal switch, just need to remove the connector from the place or need to disconnect it fully?
I don't remember, try first with the connector alone. If you undo the switch, very important to do the correct procedure czcams.com/video/mDkV6LW9xAc/video.html
That crappy liquid drain plug, it's pretty easy to break, be careful guys. I broke my, so I have to drain the whole cooler
At 28:50 don't cut that plastic piece. See what happens at 30:30 into the video, then pause and go watch first this other video that shows how to push up or even completely remove that steering coupler (important to have the front wheels sitting straight and don't turn the steering wheel) to easily pull out the heater core without any obstruction at all czcams.com/video/atgnxtHoao8/video.html
Do i need to do it whit Cold engine or i can just drive to workshop and get on whit it?
I’d love to watch how the pipes were seated in the core after being bent out of the way and clips were removed and replaced
Great video. Does this procedure apply to a 2002 V40?
i'm also wondering that. When looking at pictures of a replasment heatexchanger for my 2002 v40 the heater connections seem to be placed on the flat side of the core instead of the end like in this video.
Hi Peppermint, changing the heater core did it fix your heating problem? I have the same problem with heating in my Volvo, once is getting colder outside, barely blows warm air. Thank you
Hi Denis, it did not fix the heating problem. In the end, I managed to get good cabin heat by doing like in the video link below. Here's my explanation on this. Using cheaper coolants or mixing coolants with tap water - of even just 'flushing' the cooling system with a garden hose - will get tap water into the system. Tap water will cause limestone deposits inside the cooling system which will block some smaller coolant passages: this will cause poor coolant flow inside the heater core. Just keep in mind that other reasons for poor cabin heating can be old thermostat or climate module flaps being broken or out of calibration (Vida can do this calibration). czcams.com/video/69ymGTqHxRw/video.html
@@Peppermint1 My 2001 V70 T5 still had the original Volvo brand heater core installed, so it was more than 20 years old. It was not leaking, but dirty inside. It was not producing enough warm air to heat the cabin on cold days. Changing it to the one from Swedish Car Parts completely fixed the cold air problem.
Additionally, I agree with other viewers that this video is the best and most informative of all of the ones currently on CZcams. Thank you Peppermint!
8:58 Yeah, sure... XD
Appreciate the video! TYVM!
if leaking coolant under the chase .. about half way down under the drivers side car.. is this likely to be the heater core ?
Often times that's water extracted when the A/C is running.
Would this work for a S40?
Hi, while replacing the heater, I broke this aluminium arm regulating heater flaps. I will try to fox it or buy a new one but can you give some advicse how to set it up correctly? If I set up both sides on the controler panel to the same settings, can I just set thew left arm same as the right one?
Try asking on forums. I remember someone had the same issue, perhaps they could help with the position of the arm www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=65f0748d42010591984c5b1ccf7ff1b2
👏👏👏👍👍👍
How the hell did you get the clips back in???? Really wish that part was illustrated. I'm stuck on that part now. Still overall good tutorial.
Lay down the clips on a table - you will notice they are not longer flat, they have bent when removed. They need to be perfectly flat, so try to tap gently to bring them flat again. Also, when inserting the clips, the metal pipes may not be pushed all the way in - they may be missing just a little distance: if this happens the clip won't go in. 35:45 Try smearing a little silicone grease on the small rubber seals on the pipe - this will help the pipe move all the way in - be sure to use only silicone grease. Also good to make sure the pipe opening comes 'flat' with the heater opening, so the two holes don't make an angle with each other. Finally, the upper clip is inserted from the right, and the lower one from the left.
Hey I have a v50 and it been leaking coolant in passenger front seat from how can I fix it
S60 and V50 are pretty different, maybe try a Volvo forum www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=25
These heater cores don't break inside, but get clogged from using tap water or wrong coolant. Before replacing one, try flushing the cooling system like here czcams.com/video/69ymGTqHxRw/video.html
At 30:35 into the video, you can pull down completely the steering column shaft, see this video czcams.com/video/atgnxtHoao8/video.html
Can someone please explain how they got the upper hose clip in? Both hands? 90 degrees pliers? Wedged a screwdriver?
I think I mention in the video at some point, the upper hose clip I put it back in the opposite direction it was originally placed. The clips slide in easily be hand or pushing with a flat screw driver, as long as they are perfectly flat - we need to flatten them properly before placing them back because they get 'twisted' when removed. If the clip is even slightly not flat, it won't go back in there. The other trick is to make sure the hose is fully pushed in - I Like to add a little silicone grease on the seal to have it slide easier (not regular grease).
Also, best position to get into the space, kneeling outside of the car, on you back, or take out the front seat?
@@Peppermint1 Thank you
Good question, I try to remember, not on your back, perhaps with knees outside the car trying to reach - not easy for shorter persons. Hopefully others could give their advice on this
I used a dull slotted flat head screwdriver to push the lower pipe into the heater core. If you use a regular screwdriver, it could damage the pipe lip. I used the flat side of a large racket to hold the pipe in place while I place the clipped in place. FYI, the 2001 V70XC the control arms are underneath the plastic house, thus both clips can be place in any direction.
How do you reinstalll the upper clip?
At 35:10 you see the upper clip was inserted from the right side
Why are the heater cores of Volvos failing?
On 2001 and up models they don't fail, but can get filled with sludge from wrong coolant. They also trap air inside, see this video czcams.com/video/U56hwzayrw0/video.html
The O-Rings get had as a rock and they can also fail causing a leak.
Possible lack of cooling system maintaince and using the wrong coolant. My 99 S80 has 150k it started leaking so I purchased the kit. After R&R the core I noticed the O-Rings were hard as a rock and had a crack in one. Even the blower box was dry. I guess I would say for PM pop in a couple new O-Rings every 50k
I got the bolt out of the Steering column but now my steering column will not come off of the bottom part and it won’t rotate up
First, make sure the steering wheel stays CENTERED and won't rotate (remove the ignition key) and keep the wheels parallel, so as to connect them back in the same position. For the coupler, try just to push the steering shaft upwards, it should slide 'towards the steering wheel' and make enough place to bring out the cabin heater. You may also bring the shaft&coupler down and out completely, but you need to mark it precisely to put it back at the exact same rotation - there are splines on the steering shaft so mark precisely on both the shaft and the rest of the assembly behind the steering wheel
Thank you
I got it done and back together this was not a fun job really tigh space .
@@tonyaburnside1037 True, quite difficult body posture
Man the brake light switch part was 90 minutes lol
Agree, way to long. I've since tried to make things more straight to the point
A better explanation of the brake switch removal czcams.com/video/mDkV6LW9xAc/video.html
BEFORE STARTING - PUT THE HEAT TO FULLEST, ON BOTH SIDES - or you WILL brake one ot the arms, getting the core out!!!!! czcams.com/video/pZvIawfHrcw/video.html
I can change these in less then ten minutes and not take apart all this stuff so simple
I can't get the clips in for shit. It's like the orings are too big because it won't seat. Orings from dealer
I talk about this in the video. Two reasons: try putting a little silicone (very little) on the o-rings so they slide better it there: if the pipe is not fully seated the clips won't go in there. Some have removed the o-rings from the pipe and placed them inside the core, then slid the pipe in place but careful not to damage the o-ring. The other reason is the clips may be bent: straighten them perfectly flat if they are bent.
Would it hurt the performance of the way heater core not to have the o rings? I can see the o ring always and im having a very hard time with the clips
@@hs6232 You will have a big leak...
English please.
I've added english subtitles - see the CC button at the right lower corner at the video. It may take a few days for the setting to start working