How to repair a part 1 ballcock, standard brass ball valve. Overflow running?
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- The old standard ballcock that can be repaired so cheaply and stop that overflow. Save money on your water bill, this job is so easy and cheap to do.
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Just seen a nasty comment stating 'bloody awful video'. Like to see these people post their own videos. At the end of the day your a plumber by trade not a TV presenter, trying to help the average punter with little or no DIY knowledge to either help fix an issue, or try and save a few bob by doing it themselves! Keep up the good work Derek!
Thanks alan, I quite often get these sorts of comments. I usually delete them but have now decided to leave them posted, so everyone can see the sort of people out there. Thanks for your lovely comments which helps keep me spurring on, rather than wondering whether to pack it all in.
Your videos are very useful and easy to follow. Thanks for posting.
You are welcome!
Thank you for posting this! You've convinced me to buy a new valve.
+Ian B . No problem.
Thanks for this video, I’ve just repaired my ball valve with your help!
You're welcome!
Excellent video thanks and got me well sorted when I changed the piston only to find little improvement. Therefore your complete disassembly was very useful. I would have found a video showing extraction of the assembly from the tank helpful. Granted, it is hardly complicated BUT I wanted to do it so it all went back together without leaking. I was not helped by the fact that the main nut would not undo from the valve body and I had to undo the rising main from the threaded inlet pipe. When everything was free the nut came off when the valve housing was put in a vice. I was pleased to not that a pair of mole grips was sufficient to undo all the large nuts. Thanks also go to a 1972 Reader's Digest Repair Manual - great publication. And you guessed it - no new assembly purchased! Of interesting note was the fact that taking everything apart and refitting the lever arm and split pin when you could see what you were doing was a big plus.
Glad you sorted ok.
Thanks for the helpful video. Today bought a ball valve repair kit for £2.95 from Screwfix and managed to fix my loft tank's float valve.
No problem, pleased you fixed it ok.
This fellas a diamond, absolutely.
Thanks Kevin.
Great video. Works for me. Well done!
No problem
Thanks, in these times of lock down, this video has helped (Y)
No problem.
No worries if you think of any I have not covered let me know.
Regards
al.
Okay sir. Regars fr indonesia
Good knowledge sir 👌
hi al great video. keep them coming. thanks
Thanks for the video.
James
No problem.
Thanks for the knowledge !!
Any time
Nice and clear good commentary as well
No problem Trevor.
great video thanks
Great video info will follow up 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, your video helped me :-)
No problem.
Al.
many thanks another job completed
No problem.
i
I have the brass version,any idea what causes a noisy refill? water pressure maybe?
Pressure too high. You can also get a silent fill valve.
Hello and thank you so much for posting this video and your clear explanation. It has been very helpful to me.
I have the same system as you are showing here in my toilet, but it was fitted to take water supply from a indoor water tank. I have since got rid of the water tank and the water supply is now directly from the mains. I was told I need to change my toilet system so that it can cope with the mains water pressure as my current system is for a lower water pressure supply as it is from a storage tank. My question is:
1) can I change to valves of the existing system so that it can takes the higher pressure water supply from the mains or I need to change the whole system, like what you are showing on your video ?
2) in speaking to a plumber over the phone, he told me that I have a very old system and that the valves are no longer available on sales. Is this correct and if not,
3) is there a special name or how can I go about buying the necessary valves and washers and finally,
4) are the valves for the mains water supply and the water tank supply the same size in diameter or they are different in diameter ? This is because I still have the ballcock system taken off from the mains storage tank, but it looks smaller in diameter than my existing toilet tank ballcock system.
Any help and clarifications you could give is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Hello Fortre, you only need to change the ballcock in your wc cistern to a high pressure valve. In fact you could take the valve out and just change the seating to a high pressure seat. You do not need to change the whole system.High pressure valves are available at any plumbers store. They are called brass ballcocks part 2. The diameter of all mains pipe work and valves is 15 mm.
Thank you for your advise and clarification. I will go round to a plumber supplier this coming weekend to get the parts although I suspect I will have problems undoing the water corroded limescale deposits and rust on the connection nut that is attached to the ball cock system, Wish me luck. :)
Great! Just what I needed!
Glad I could help!
@@dereton33 Everything went fine. After watching your video I decided to buy a complete new valve, since that was only just over £4 compared to £1.50 for a repair kit and the original was pretty corroded after 40 years. Fitting only took about ten minutes with another ten minutes spent trying to bend the arm to lower the ball - managed it with two ring spanners in the end. Thanks again! Now have you done a video for replacing a syphon bomb in a double trap syphonic toilet I wonder. I must look at your other videos...
Great vid. Was going to replace the whole valve. I might have a go at repairing now. How does one identify if its a low or high pressure valve?
Take a look at the size of the seating, they are usually high.
@@dereton33 Thank you!
Great video, thanks. I couldn't get new washers, so I had to buy the whole new arm assembly! Such a waste! Tfs 👍🏻
The throwaway society today.
@@dereton33 That's just it, sadly! Oh well... 😒
followed this but the inside of my valve was a brass piston and the washers in the kit were too big!?
Excellent, thank you. Turns out I was missing the fibre washer. Would've thought it would have been supplied with the new part.
Should have been.
Maybe it joined the other debris in my workshop. Thanks again.
Hi there, is it possible to adjust the ballcock on one of these so it stops filling the cistern sooner? I have a minor over-flow problem.
Yes.
Nice one mate, saved me calling a plumber out, ;)
Mark G No problem. Al.
Much appreciated!
No problem.
I’ve replaced the whole ball valve unit in my water tank, but the supply pipe feeding unit was leaking, I’ve stopped the leak using ptfe tape.
Is there a washer in the feeding pipe I should have changed? Will the ptfe tape be ok as no leak now.
There is a fibre washer but the PTFE tape will be fine.
Hello again deretoen33 - I was not able to loosen the end where the water comes into the pressure valve. But I was told that because I have a combination gas boiler even when my toilet cistern was fed from the indoor water tank before, the valve in it should be a high pressure one. Is this correct ?
Also, I was able to loosen the opposite end as I wanted to change the washer in the (usually) white plunger as currently there was a slight leak and the water would flow into the overflow pipe in the cistern if it is not flushed for more than 8 hours. But when I open the end, I saw a black end (of the supposely white piston ?) and it is bigger in diameter than the replacement one that I have bought for a 15mm size.
Before I start to take off the pin to release the arm of the float and take out the piston, I wanted ti check with you first whether does this piston comes in different size diameter ? Mine seems to be either 3/4inch or 1 inch diameter. Is it possible or do I have to take it out completely to check ?
Your kind clarifications greatly appreciated. Many thanks for your time and advise.
These plastic valves can come in all sorts of sizes, would be better if you could renew the complete valve.
ok. Thanks for your advise. I was also thinking that, that may be the best course of action. Now only hope the plumber can be bothered to or can take off the old ballcock system from the mains water inlet pipe as they seem to be fused together after so many years untouched as I would like to fit a new part 2 brass system instead of the modern plastic ones.
dereton33 - Just curious - I managed to take out the piston from the existing ballvalve and it is a brass piston. My quesiton is then, how do I replace the washer in the piston as there is no exit anywhere except the slit where the arm of the plastic float ball is attached to ? Do I use this slit to put a new washer in side ways and then try to rotate the waher so that is is facing forward in the piston ?
I would have posted a picture of the piston here if only I know how
Thank you so much💯💯
You're welcome!
Hi @0:53 any ideas how to remove this screw top end when it just doesn't want to budge? What type of grips did you use. Trying to remove my one but it's near impossible. Any adjustable wrenches I use just can't grip the screw top as it's circular and the ridges are very small.
You will need a pair of footprints to undo it. Also a tap around the outside of it with a small toffee hammer will help shake it loose.
@@dereton33 thanks for the advice got it loose in the end and had to use a counter wretch to prevent me applying too much pressure to the whole fitting. I'm going to get the washer and I think I'll be good 👍
My arm is sticky and often not coming back up when the water level comes up. What should I do? Disassemble? Grease? Change piston?
Grease it .
Could you just rotate the rubber washer the other way round instead of replacing it?
H Nur Yes you can, but the washer can be a bit compressed with no give in it, which is why it is still best to replace it. Al.
This one didn't work out for me - I think what happened is that as I'm in a hard water area, I ought to have cleaned off debris around the split pin before crimping and attempting to remove. I ended up with bits broken off the pin on either side of the hinge (i.e. it's mangled) and I still couldn't manage to remove it. Given all the new (and better looking part 2) would cost, I'm not sure this is worth it for your average DIYer - spend a tenner and save yourself time and hassle! ;-)
Sorry to hear that
Just installed one of these in my toilet cistern, does not give me enough water??? Did you say valve for the roof tank?? Looks like I will have to take this back for a refund, was sold to me for the toilet cistern??
Sounds like your cistern is fed from the roof tank in which case you will need a low pressure one.
Nah, I have a combination boiler...
Ok. Try a medium red seating in the valve.
You said you can fix it to avoid having to replace it with a part 2 valve. Why would anyone want to avoid that?
stoduk Repair/maintenance kit for a type 1 is £2. To replace with a decent type 2 £10+. My valve is over 40 years old and still working well. I just replaced the washers etc and gave it a clean and lubrication. It'll still be going when I'm not around.
Little slip of the tongue in calling the split pin a 'circlip', but commonsense vid. Personally I always buy a nice new complete valve. All the fiddling about with the guts and wondering which part was the problem is eliminated by spending a fiver at Screwfix for a nice shiny brand new one in the knowledge that every part is perfect, then simply taking the old one off and putting the new one in its place. Much easier job and at that kind of price why wouldn't you?
I agree John.
Fu