How to change the washer on a traditional ball valve after water was seen running from the overflow pipe outside the house from the header tank located in the loft.
Thank you. Before i cam across this video, I nearly bought a replacement kit. I managed to get the replacement washer for only R10 for two. Saved a lot of money.
Best video on the subject, so we'll done. Should we check to see that after water draw off and then replenish the level, the float cuts off the water supply before the water surface reaches the valve body? Should be ok but if the arm is bent a little during maintenance etc, it may be riding high. Best to be sure I think.
You should check the water level immediately after you have done the repair and done a trial flush. On mine I had to remove the ball and its shaft and bend it around 1/2 inch to get the fill level where it needed to be, about half an inch below the overflow outlet.
I'm struggling with taking off the screw on the end of the valve. Years of water/mineral deposits have jammed it and I don't want to twist and break anything.
Tricky one that. I think I’d buy a complete new fitting from somewhere I could return it if I didn’t need it (like Screwfix or Toolstation) and then have a go at unscrewing the end of the valve. I’ve done it by putting the solid end in a vice and using mole grips on the other end - but you’re right, it could ruin the valve and then you’d have to replace the entire fitting.
If you use a mole wrench and a stilsons you can hold one whilst rotating the other counterclockwise in situ. I'll bet you can't break it. It will unsrcew. Have faith!
An explanation that's so simple so easy to follow. Spot on.
Thank you. Before i cam across this video, I nearly bought a replacement kit. I managed to get the replacement washer for only R10 for two. Saved a lot of money.
Best video on the subject, so we'll done.
Should we check to see that after water draw off and then replenish the level, the float cuts off the water supply before the water surface reaches the valve body?
Should be ok but if the arm is bent a little during maintenance etc, it may be riding high.
Best to be sure I think.
You should check the water level immediately after you have done the repair and done a trial flush. On mine I had to remove the ball and its shaft and bend it around 1/2 inch to get the fill level where it needed to be, about half an inch below the overflow outlet.
Thanks
Very helpful instruction, but it didn't stop the flow of water. Looks like I need a complete replacement kit😢
I'm struggling with taking off the screw on the end of the valve. Years of water/mineral deposits have jammed it and I don't want to twist and break anything.
Tricky one that. I think I’d buy a complete new fitting from somewhere I could return it if I didn’t need it (like Screwfix or Toolstation) and then have a go at unscrewing the end of the valve. I’ve done it by putting the solid end in a vice and using mole grips on the other end - but you’re right, it could ruin the valve and then you’d have to replace the entire fitting.
If you use a mole wrench and a stilsons you can hold one whilst rotating the other counterclockwise in situ. I'll bet you can't break it. It will unsrcew. Have faith!
@@seagull104 you're right that's exactly what I did a few months back. Didn't break and I fixed the valve. Thanks.
@@seagull104 Wrench / spanner?.