UPGRADE Z-AXIS CNC 3018 to improve stability at low cost
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2019
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After upgrading the motor I noticed that the movements on the z-axis were not fluid and the z-axis itself was moving too much. I saw that the bearings were too short and the screw was free to swing in the hole. With little money I solved the problem definitively!
⭐ Link Linear Motion Ball Bearing: www.banggood.com/custlink/vDm...
⭐ Link Copper Nut for T8 Lead Screw: www.banggood.com/custlink/K3m...
⭐ Link cnc 3018:
- Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/vKD... (PROMO! )
- Gearbest: it.gearbest.com/cutting-tools...
- Amazon: amzn.to/2YHdh44
- Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/csDAlSE4
⭐Link Spindle Motor Machifit ER11 500W :
- Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/vKD...
- Amazon: amzn.to/2PahpW9
- Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/baSEgHXw
⭐ Link Gear Bearing Grease For 3D Printer CNC Part : www.banggood.com/custlink/mmD...
📹VIDEO Upgrade Spindle Motor: • UPGRADE CNC 3018 Spind...
📹 VIDEO CNC 3018 3 Axis Mini DIY CNC Router Unboxing, Assembly and Testing: • CNC 3018 3 Axis Mini D...
Support the Channel!!: paypal.me/pools/c/8e6KvlwLql - Zábava
Thanks Mr. Cosmo! I immediately ordered the larger bearings. 500 watt spindle was already on it's way.
Great video my man. I hope it continues to get the gazillions of views it deserves
Thanks a lot my friend! I work hard and try to improve more and more regardless of the views! Thanks!!
Great video, these machines are a bit of a learning curve and a lot of fun to mess around with and modify. I really like how you've managed to find a way to cheaply modify the stock z axis to get better results.
i had the same problem in my sainsmart 3018cnc. almost same. the screw was not moving but where the linear bearring are. i was also complemanting how to solve the issue. your video is a great help! Thank you.
in the end i wrote to sainsmart and they send me a free replacement
; )
I replaced mine with just the standard motor. I reamed out two brass tubes and it works much better
Just an observation... If you're going to lose some Z axis range with the longer bearings, why not lose it all on the lower end (have all the excess bearing come out of the bottom)? This would make sense if you ever decide to use a spoil board. You would lose some range by using a board, you might as well take advantage of it.
Thank you for this!
Thank you very much I changed my 3018 with long bearing it became better with more precision
I am happy for you!! Good job!
Thanks for this video. Got the longer bearings and it's made a big difference
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Excellent video, very well explained! Best regards
Thank you very much for this video.
Thank you so much!
Thank you very useful upgrade 🙏
Thanks for the comment!
Nice solution and I'm sure it is an improvement on the old situation but, I also think the 3018 was not built for a 500W spindle so it will always be a weak spot in my opinion. But, as I said, it is an improvement for sure!
It looks like your 3018 had 24mm linear bearings in the z-axis, which I agree is too small, but my machine came with two 17mm bearings per side for a 34mm total z-height. This seems way more stable than wiggle that you showed, but doesn't stick out the top either, causing a loss of 9mm vertical travel in a machine that already doesn't have a big z-range.. On my machine I can detect far more play from bend in the x-axis rails than from looseness in the z-axis mount.
Thank you so much for this helping and instructive video with all the details needed.
Thank you so much!
@@cosmochannelvideo What kind of filament did you use to print the spindle upgrade? PLA or ABS? Thank you.
@@joetke I used the pla + . if you look in my videos you will find the guide for the replacement of the spindle.
@@joetke czcams.com/video/yAwK0rdUusk/video.html
@@cosmochannelvideo Thank you! I watched that video before this one :)
Fantastic video
hello. the advantages are on the engravings on hard materials and for the finishing of the engraving. In addition, the engine speed remains constant even when the cutter removes a lot of material. The old engine suffered a lot from deep cuts. The only flaw is the higher weight that lowers the quality a bit in the small engravings.
Good job, I will do same procedure when I face same problem
I'm glad!
THANKS,VERY USEFULL
Thanks for the comment!
Hi great video do the new bearings get in the way of the travel up and down cheers
Thanks I did the upgrade! It came across my mind the is it normal that the stepper motor is holding up the entire z axis, would putting a stopper at the bottom of the threaded rod (where you put the copper ring)?
Thanks a lot for share, is this CNC machine able to worw with plastics, wood and metals?
I knew that the z axis support made from 3D printed was the weakest part just by looking at them on ebay and such but man...i didn't imagine it would be that wooblie. Jesus. That 3018 is really crappy. Nice fix/upgrade any way. Obrigado amigo.
all its intended for is entry level to get you used to g code and maintenance its not meant to make parts for your car. for what it is its excellent. you wanna spend several thousand you get better parts.
Any recomendations for a low vibration motor for a 3018 Pro CNC, please?
what about the default acceleration? have you tried to increased? also the default current for each stepper i think is 700ma, have you tried to increased?.
I recognize those cheapo linear bearings you took out, LOL. Now I can see why people build their own CNC: if it’s going to built in a garage, let it be my garage!
In short...that 3018 CNC is a waste of money. I build my own from scratch. :)
@@MCircuits Do you have a guide on your built? I figuring out I'll have to end up doing the same.
@Jeremy L Problably that was for @M Circuits =)
этим фрезером дерево?! молодец, а главное поучительно)
Did you print that yourself? I have 3x 3018 Pro Machines.. look nearly identical... but all my Z axis looks like a solid piece or maybe some injection molded plates with joints... but they are super strong... and do not have all the ribbing like your machine??? The black part that holds the motor, mine is gray, and not centered... it like wraps around and joins at the back side.. not like yours with the screw connections in the front... Mine is a few years old... well they all are... I am not sure how I ended up with 3 of them... but it think it had something to do with the first GRBL board getting fried ... then they sent me my original machine back.. and then another one... and then another one... I have lots of extra parts though... I am currently taking the appprox 12" x 10" X, Y axis and extending it to just over 24" x 24"... huge build area... coming soon... So what gives? why is your machine different? where did you buy? or did you make the black motor housing for an upgraded spindle motor?
Edit: I think after watching more closely, you have a different machine all together... My Frame is not the same type of aluminum, and the way your X -Axis is connected, is much different...
Sorry... I am interested to know if you have upgraded the motor though...
hi can you tell me to get the that holder for the new motor as i have bought the motor and tried other fitting but they are not very good
Do you have to get the 500w spindle a psu or can the board deal with it
I'm trying to order and replace the Z-Aches but I don't know which is the full discretion of this lead screw
I know that we call it T8 Lead screw, but there are many options with can you help me with that ?
Pitch 1mm Lead 1mm Pitch 2mm Lead 2mm Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm Pitch 2mm Lead 8mm
Which one the one that I need please ?
I have the 2418 one
What about metal 52mm holder ??
Me pasa lo mismo con los 3 ejes, veo que con esos rodamientos lineales lograste corregir el error
y digo yo no era mas facil imprimir una pieza de sujeccion para el motor con la altura de los rodamientos que trae la maquina por defecto?
thank you for showing this upgrade, do you thing this motor would be able to mill small aluminum parts? I plan on changing the Z axis on mine as the plastic printed parts are just not up to the job i think, going to rebuild it all in aluminum
if you are upgrading plan it thoroughly first dont make these mistakes and never cut corners like this.this is rigging at its finest
Yeah if you have this spindle and a better z axis, you still need to address the x axis. That is a bigger change, the linear guide rails are not that stiff and you might want to replace them or at least add a third, thicker rail.
@@LuLeBe I rebuilt a whole new CNC out of solid aluminum from 3/4 plate and a 2.2 kw spindle, its a whole new cnc
@@adrianharrison5208 sounds amazing! Didn't actually notice your comment was that old when I replied.
Can you give some details? Like, what guide rails, leadscrews/belts or so, built with just 3/4" aluminum or also some aluminum extrusion like the often seen 4080 parts? I'm in the middle of planning some upgrades to get my machine from about stock shapeoko stiffness to something much better, so I'd love to know more!
@@LuLeBe it has a few peices of extrusion left but they are only there for a platfornm for 15mm linear rails and 1604 ball screws to bolt too, also these few parts will be filled with epoxy granite.. the aluminum plate is acts as the frame now.. It also has an acorn cnc controll systeam that i will be sorting out tonight with 23mm steppers..
I have been asked to make a few youtube videos on the build so I may do that
hello, do you recommend this spindle? how is it compared to the stock motor that comes with the machine? I want a more quite machine, maybe this spindle can help
surely with the new engine I find it more powerful and excellent for small and precise cuts at high speed.
maquina e boa, sim vale a pena
@@cosmochannelvideo I know that English isn't your first language, so the translation is a bit off.
Engine = requires fuel (petrol, diesel, etc.)
Motor = electrical
When you are referring to the spindle, it is a motor not an engine.
Overall good videos, keep up the great work!
Thanks a lot for your comment. I understand English almost well but still have a lot of difficulty writing in English. I rely heavily on the translator. I am wrong not to reread the translation.
Instead of boring out the threads of the lead screw nut, would using an 8mm bore sleeve bearing work?
And pardon me for not mentioning, excellent video.
A bearing would be perfect! Only that it would be more complicated to assemble.
@@cosmochannelvideo ok vou tentar, obrigado
Are you just going to keep wiggling the dang thing or fix it?
boa tarde, pode me ajudar tenho cnc 3018 : na hora de gravar ela sobe o eixo z e faz desenho no ar, grato
Olá. antes de começar com a gravação você tem que trazer o eixo z perto do objeto a ser gravado. não deve passar uma folha de papel. A seguir, definir o ponto 0 dos eixos. Espero ter sido útil para ti.
@@cosmochannelvideo ola amigo eu faço isso porem quando ele inicia que chega no ponto de gravação ele sobe e faz o desenho no ar kkkkk
Olá, amigo. Nesta altura, acho que tens o eixo Z invertido. Tente subir com o software e veja se ele responde corretamente ao comando. Deixe-me saber
@@cosmochannelvideo ok vou tentar configurar
Wow, a big difference. I think I would be tempted to do a complete make over of the Z axis in aluminium, slightly more travel etc, and at the same time fit either fully supported SBS linear rails to the X axis frames or Hiwin linear rails…..cost is irrelevant. You could make this machine so much better with a few tweaks like that.....ask Myfordboy. At the same time I would also install another 4 axis controller and run on Mach3..... even a 4th axis is possible.....it has the potential to be upgraded hugely with a bit of craftiness.....why settle for less...….to put the cream on the cake, I see Taig has some 12mm ball screws for an update to their mill......that would be a huge step forward.
Surely. But at this point, shouldn't you buy a better one?
@@cosmochannelvideo Yes, that would be the logical thing before you invested in that particular 3018, but as it's so cheap initially and you already had one the upgrade to a better outcome is tempting. It also gives you a basis for some improvements if you're into that sort of thing. Some people like to tinker with machinery and a lot just depends on what you intend to do with it. Any serious machining and you would have to think of a solution for that situation before you indulged in a cheapie which even with an upgrade would not seriously perform like a more robust and powerful model......cost is a factor too if rebuild time is not. It's designed and built as a fully working model down to a cost which I think is a brilliant achievement.
@@cosmochannelvideo Does life really work that way though? If you can get the machine now, you can learn now. If you wait, life happens, events come along, emergencies take place, people need things, you spend the money, you wait to learn, you lose the interest. Nope. You want to do a thing? Start now. No excuses. The the moment it's possible. And then improve. That's the way life really works.
obrigado valeu
@@cosmochannelvideo My thoughts too
youd be better off finding a bearing the size of the ball screw instead of the home made bushing . it still has ledges that will catch. find a bearing and drill out a hole to fit it and press the bearing in
Hey bro. so i am having a problem with the 3018 regarding grblcontrol. In my carve it crashes halfway, do you have a alternative for this?
try this easel.inventables.com
Can I ask where you got the spindle mount from.. I've looked everywhere for one...
Hello! Here is the link from which I downloaded the drawing and then printed it in 3d: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2719169 here is the video on how to mount it czcams.com/video/yAwK0rdUusk/video.html
May I ask which spindle motor you have, it doesn't seem the original one?
I mounted a more powerful one. Watch this video czcams.com/video/yAwK0rdUusk/video.html
Can the original 3018 be used to make the 3d printed parts in aluminium?
You could do it but in various pieces taking forever! I advise you not to try! Greetings
Ciao cosmo. Ma io avrei bisogno di cambiare i cuscinetti dell'asse x. Quelli montanti su asse z che vanno a destra e a sinistra. Basta batterli fuori come quelli z?
Si
Hi.
Nice stuff, i also have this one. Printed big upgrade for this. The motor holder and some bearings stuff. But i have stock motor (silver color), you have some black one. Havent seen this.
EDIT: oh, you did motor upgrade. Nice, have to do this also.
I also bought longer Z profiles the 2 vertical ones, this to increase the space between the bed and the chuck itself. I have a wooden plate on bed and its thick and its very hard to change the bits.
Havent installed these yet, because im doing other things atm.
I want to try to make PCB with this one, there are tons of videos and ideas. Have to try. Specially drilling hundreds of holes is very nice with this CNC.
Good enough for hobby stuff.
Hi, there. Thanks for the comment. I use it for wood engravings and I feel very good. With some improvements you can achieve great results. Thank you!
e boa sim , vou fazer algumas mudanças no futuro ok
@@powertothebauer296 3000-12000r / min
you should replace the end nut with a kfl08
Than he will not lost a few inch ?
Your missing Roller bearings on the Z there should be 4 and only looks like you have just 2, and your also missing the bottom lead screw bushing part. my CNC came with all the parts your missing
your also missing the x axis bushings to
Correct, absolutely.
obrigado vou verificar isso e te falo
Guys i am interested in such a machine, but i would need a higher z-axis. Around 100-120mm instead of only 45mm. Is there a way to increase it and use it or should choose another model and if yes, do you have any recomendations for wood and soft alumium? Thanks in advance!
@@tamgaming9861 voce teria que aumentar a coluna do eixo z , coloque barra de aluminio maior ok
@@jsuaed-videos ah thanks for your answer. was a bit tricky to translate it :-) Do you think it has a disadvantage if i go higher for the stability or the precision of the cnc?
I must say I wouldn't hammer those linear bearings, the tiny ball bearings inside them can fall out, ruining the bearing. Press fit them every time. If you must hammer them, put a short length of the correct size rod inside them to prevent this happening.
You're right. When I did, I didn't think about it. Still great advice! Thank you!
Correct
Ok maybe i'm blind but were do you get the upgrade kit ?????
I bought the 2 pieces on banggood. In the description of the video there are the links of the products
why they not casting that spindle holder with some better material?
because it would cost too much...
Con aluminio. Podría ser reciclado.
Why use a flexible shaft coupler on the Z???? any downwards load, say from a flat end mill, and it will expand like a spring... also, you don't need the drilled out brass threaded insert, all that is doing is now transferring any eccentricity from there to the centre. You only need to fix a lead screw at 2 points, just look at the Z axis on an ender 3.
Replacing bearing reduced play but wasn't worth it. That is the only place it 'wobbled' on my cnc. Went from 1mm at the tip to about 0.5mm. Not worth the time and energy, looking at other options.
Where is the link for grease?
I forgot. I'm sorry. I added it in the description! Thank you!
z axis linaar rod is fine becouse its short ,but x axis rods should be linear rails so it stop wooble more. then z axis stuff other than 3d printed parts lol. try cut 0.2mm tip when it wobble more xD
Uh thank god my 3018 is much stiffer out of the box. You got me worried there for a second.
My dream is to buy it some day, to create and texperience
In a few days I'll make the video on the pro version that costs a few dollars in canoe... we'll see! Stay connected!
ela e boa sim,
@@cosmochannelvideo ok vou ver sim
ela e boa sim,
Useful. But you have just lost 10mm of travel on an axis thats already a tad short
I know. But to this day, I've never regretted that lost inch...
Those Z-bearings were broken. That was not a backlash problem which affects only the lead screw.
Its really sad that this defect so easily passes inspection
this is not a quality issue. Its how these cheap CNCs are made in China. I have one sitting in shelf for almost a year with similar issues. Out of the box Its completely useless until you spend another $300-$400 on upgrades to make it useable.
Anyone used this machine to cut 2mm carbon fiber panel?
I did once. All you need is a good milling cutter and you're good to go.
@@cosmochannelvideo You are awesome :)
@@cosmochannelvideo what setting did you use?
All those upgrades should of been done when the new spindle motor mount was made . But the you could not of had to make this video.
You are right. But initially I did not agree with all this movement .. Using the cnc I understood where the problem was.
Thankfully the latest version of the 3018 I received from Sainsmart has a totally different head and is rock solid...for now...
PS.. banggood = worst retailer ever and blatant IP thieves....caveat emptor...
Its only because you change the bearings...
Your videos are good but you have very less likes.. For which i felt a bit bad I suggest that you should add your voice or put text. Also try making a complete diy CNC mill atleast structural from scratch with good precesion rather tahn 3d printed parts, that will be a cool video
Thank you so much for your compliments and advice. I already have a project to add my own voice (in Italian) and subtitles in various languages. Thank you!
ok obrigado
upgrade for 3018 keep cables motors control board power supply aluminium. UPGRADE everything else xD
that 500W spindle motor with its fan will vibrate that Z gantry even with that upgrade and break your bit tips all the time even with just pcb milling. that z gantry design could not even handle a 550 dc motor. better design and print your own z gantry and downgrade to the smallest fanless spindle motor that can hold an ER11. the x and y design and materials used just lack the necessary rigidity to prevent a bigger motor from vibrating the whole set-up. any upgrades of the 3018s should include anchoring the T8 screws firmly to the gantry/body and not rely on the stepper motor bearings and coupler for stability.
Hahaha thats why i bought Mine entire metal structure machine ...never use plástic at CNC body structure we can see many wood structure CNC over internet and they Work Fine for a good time till you need remake some pieces ...but plástic should be avoided ...If you buy your First machine ITS ok for learning purposals but dont Go sny further
OMG!!! just freaking replace that 3D printed material with a stiffer one like thick acrylic.
it would be a great solution!
Better use a ball bearing!
You used 1 half of a backlash lead-screw nut twice. you could have used the other half on each occasion to actually get the benefit of them. secondly, the part you used was 3d printed for the bearings. you could have printed it with the right tolerances to begin with to have the original bearings fit with no play. thirdly, you haven't used a grub screw on the opposite side of the lead screws so it is naturally now going to "ellipse" as it navigates the x in the Z and Y axis. Just because it has less play at the end does not mean that is more accurate since you could have pre loaded the play and it would have been more accurate than the set up you upgraded it to.
To be frank, I think this is a fake. The 3018 comes with bearings. They never clank around like this. True, they have a tendency for the bearings to slip, but they are never like this.
Hello! The 3018 like all other desktop CNCs have linear bearings. Unfortunately, the quality of these bearings is poor. Placing a longer linear bearing decreases the linear play. But I don't understand what he means by fake ..
@@cosmochannelvideo Because when he shows the amount of play at the start, the bearings have been removed already. That is why it is clanking like that and has so much play. Sure, better quality parts always improve anything, but it is misleading to make it look like this is how they come from the suppliers.
"First". Before.
Thank you so much for the clarification! Unfortunately my english is bad !!!
Why did you have to start with that intro 😭😭😭
You definitely need to kill that soundtrack, totally annoying !!
Hice un video en ASMR :-)
,
Please stop wiggling that, please!
WHAT KIND OF A JOKE IS THIS MACHINE.. . THAT INITIAL SLOP IS RIDICULOUS!!! Even if it was only carrying a laser or printer that was sloppy
what, is your tongue broken?
No. I just don't speak much English and prefer to be quiet.😂
@@cosmochannelvideo Ironically plenty of people would complain that it was hard to understand if you did talk and English isn't your native language.
People are hard to please. :-P
Pain full video