FIRST Row Of Tile On Walls....how to do it
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2017
- Here is an EASY way to set your 1st row and the rest going up your wall, then lastly the FIRST row is set. I explain why this method works SOOOO easy.
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StarrTile annoying music! Had to mute!
Tiling a composite shower pan would be even easier you wouldn't need to really worry too much about running short at the bottom
@MegaSkilla l)
I'm back, found this video and i understand the board, but I'm overly confused.. buddy who owns flooring company says start on bottom row.. but you mentioned it's antiquated nowadays...
Another thing you can do is use levels. I'm a tile contractor as well and I have 2,4,5,6 and 8 foot levels I use as ledger boards. As long as you clean them well after using, they work great and are very easy to secure to the wall
Love the fact that you explained it twice, and told those who got it, to click off now.... clearly you care that the information is being received by the viewer.
I can’t tell you enough how appreciative we are for all the work you do in sharing these videos with us. I look forward to your videos in action.
I listened to your explanation a few times and it makes sense. I've never tiled before but now I have a lot more confidence to tackle this DIY job based on this video. So thank you for solving my biggest impediment. Trying to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit correctly against the sloping floor.
Agreed
I mostly so completly bathroom remodeling here in NewYork. I always use boards and start from second tile up. Laser level all around and then i use 1.5/8 metal track with 2/4 inserted inside. The best method ever. I taught lots of tiler how to do that. Bob i really hope all this time you waste of youtube pays you off somehow. I cannot imagine my self video taping my jobs 😂😂😂
I’m thinking about taking out my fiberglass shower, and tile the enclosure including ceiling, watching your videos has given me more courage to try this and do it right, Thank you!
ceilings scare me, i havent done one yet. I would need all the knowledge first hand
This explanation was so easy to understand. Nobody has ever broken it dow this simply. I LOVE how you always give the real LYFE practical reason for why you’re doing what you’re doing. You’re not just like “well my instructor said X so I’ll do that forever without questioning.” Or some guys “paragraph 9 subsection Q of rule 8675309 clearly states you must hop on your left foot while rubbing your tummy and patting your head. Don’t question it. Just do it.”
I went to set my first row last night after setting the pebble floor in pan. I had a level line set but once thinset was troweled couldn’t use it for reference. The ledger makes perfect sense, I’ve watched a lot of your vids, thanks for all the Pro tips, honestly mean that. I aborted first row until I could research topic better and am glad I did, it was getting super aggravating.
Great video , just layed a new shower floor with round penny size tiles. It is not perfect, and this video solved my problem. Now I can proceed with my wall tile. Thanks for taking your time to do these videos.
Actually come back and rewatch these videos over and over of yours and your calm voice and your methodical explanations are always spot on and quite enjoyable to one who enjoys expert professionality.
You’re the Holmes on Homes Tile-Guy!!!
I always use a ledger board. The other good reason is when your going to carry the same tile to the outside of the shower. I get my dimensions for the first row outside the shower and use the top of that tile to carry my line into the shower area. Works out great. Nice explanation Bob.
Thank You
I found myself looking for answers and confirmation with the correct steps to take with my own bath remodel today. I picked up the phone and called the man himself. Mr. Doyle is a true gentleman, he took the time to answered all my questions in great detail, and even through in a history lesson for good measure!
Keep up all the great videos, we learn a lot from them!!
Thank you!
Doug
Thanks so much for your videos! Why are the supposed "experts" watching your videos and then criticizing you? Some people just love to criticize everyone. I appreciate you and your humble attitude. Please, totally ignore the negative people.
You just critiqued people that criticise. 😂 . It's the way nowadays. All you people, blah blah blah. It's a kind of self serving therapy I guess. Imagine a world where the opposite happened and mostly, only positive reinforcement happened.
I have watched ton of videos about wall tile and this was simple and informative. Thank you. Now to my daughter's bathroom shower wall.
To cut in the bottom row simply place a 4mm plastic packer on the floor at the ends where the tile bottom corners will sit . Then position the tile upside down on the packers and mark tight to the under side corners of the above tile. When the tile is cut you have a 2mm spacing plus 2mm gap for silicone where it meets the floor.
You can play around with different size packers for different grout widths.
I think your video was clear. I pitched a fit on my tile job years ago, wanting a perfect whole tile starting at the bottom. What a trainwreck! I had to fix with a giant grout line, then tore it out and put a 1 inch tile in place of it at the bottom. It looked horrible until last week when I tore out my entire bathroom to remodel, and get it right! I am a female DIY, and all of these videos are very helpful. Thank you.
thats so hot
By the way your videos are supper helpful. It gives us homeowners to know how things should be done and give us some tools when dealing with contractors.
wow bob simply amazing been doing it wrong all my life thank for taking the time to make this vid I live in Marietta myself I know your bust as hell but I need a good tile guy to help us with all our reno projects we work from buckhead to east cobb
I swear by ledger boards, I use them all the time. The way you explained it is exactly the way I do it. Been doing it for 12 years.
Hi Ed. I have a sloped shower pan five feet long, schluter. This probably wouldn't work because the sides would end up being tilted ? Any suggestions?
john m
@@jmack619 It will work, just means the tile at the front will be little bigger than at the back. That is if your drain is at the front instead of in the center. If you're using a large tile, you probably wouldn't even notice.
@@edwardhofer2429 Thank you Edward. The linear drain is at one end, so the Schluter pan has about 1 1/4 " slope , over 5 feet.
Used your ledger board recommendation on a DIY rental bathroom rehab. Everything worked well with measurements and pre planning. I screwed myself trying to make the cuts and transition from the tub well to the wall tile outside the tub/shower. My advice, get the proper tools before you start. It makes things much easier. Thanks for the help. Planning on another bathroom rehab later this year. Attempting a one-of-kind niche this time around.
Starr Tile: I'm from metro Atlanta and am always a little more excited to come across a tile video from where I learned the trade!
I admire your cleanliness and overall ambition to be better, constantly learn, and pass along that experience to other tile contractors that are also continually trying to better themselves!
That being said, I have a copy suggestions/pointers:
1. If you are screwing a baseboard 🙄 into the wall to be level in a shower you need to come to terms or acknowledge the fact that you are less than perfect or mediocre at mudding a shower floor or preparing a shower floor. Under no circumstances should you have to rely on a piece of wood to be level when you should be fully capable of doing so with concrete, shower floor mud, etc.
Raw shower floor, prep, preslope, mudding, and setting the shower floor is definitely a tedious process! But if you didn't know that going into this trade, you were misinformed. Tile installation/custom bathrooms, commercial projects require the installer to be very good at math, geometry, and a whole lot of knowledge gained from experience.
If you are truly the best at what you do and carry a great sense of pride, you should never rely on this method. Take more time on your shower floor, figure out your layout ahead of time and consider all factors and possible problems.
This is what separates the actual "best" tile company installers/owners from the rest.
Pride in your work, a willingness to constantly learn and adapt, and knowing problems you most likely will go through from experience CANNOT be understated.
Unless that is the straightest framing known to man, you should also address that before you apply your final waterproof barrier.
These kind of things will help you on the higher end jobs who will know just how good you are. And trust me, I would not start out with screwing baseboard into a wall. Always try to be better with mudding and preparing, as I always am too!
Other than that, great video! And thank God in heaven you are not one of these schluter shower warriors who talk a bunch of game after watching a few videos and think they can do what most of us watching this kind of video does!
P.S. can you please send some good BBQ, fried chicken, or seafood up here to Minnesota????
I will send you some barbecue if you guys stop voting for lunatic, liberal freaking Democrats into political office!
Your explanation was clear and through. Not too hard to follow. It's just like doing a floating floor with how you turn the tiles over to measure.
Props to you for giving credit.
I’ve watched a lot of tile videos and seems to me the 2 best come out of GA. You and the other guy you mentioned in the video.
Thanks for taking the time to make these. They are really helpful.
A little tip when installing those accent tiles that come on fabric: get them cut to the length you want then lay them on a tile or something flat and grout them with thinset then take a brush and wipe the grooves and put a fan on it to dry it. It locks them in place and prevents the morter from pushing through.
Thank you! This makes sense to me. I'm going to use the ledger, but I'll add the level ing clips behind it so when the ledger comes off I can use them to prevent lippage along the bottom row.
I am just getting ready to tile a shower that looks almost exactly the same size and configuration of the one in this video and will be using 12x24 LFT for the first time. This video was a HUGE help and will make my job much less intimidating. Thanks Bob!
You're most welcome ;-)
Hardi plank split in half is the best ledger board I've found to use it's very straight it'll hold a huge load and it's the perfect thickness , enough to catch the tile but doesn't protrude out past the tile that helps for a few reasons . 👌
I accidentally tied a noose around my neck while that music was playing - thank god for pause buttons to regain my composure...
This is the first video I watched that helped my actually understand the process, thanks a lot!
Dude, I'm so glad I found your videos! When the shower in my house started leaking I dreaded the unknowns of expense and effort to repair. Doing exploratory demo, I found that the builders of this 1999 single floor home in Mesa, AZ didn't use any waterproofing behind the cultured marble panels that lined the three shower walls (fourth side a glass door, the curb a pre-formed cultured marble piece w/no sealant). Behind that, the drywall (green board, no cement board) was rotted out almost three feet up, and between the piss-poor installation and the aging of the adhesive they didn't use enough of, the panels were only held up by friction. Digging further in, I found that there was no liner, pan, or other water sealing under the mortar bed or around the drain. It was poured straight on the concrete slab, damn the consequences! So when the caulk with a ten to twelve year service life reached 17 years, no surprise that water went everywhere. Financially, the threat of days of contractor labor and material costs was overwhelming, having recently lost my day job, jumping into doing what had always been a hobby as a new business venture, my budget is so tight it makes starving college students seem like such frivolous, wanton spenders. At least, this being Arizona, it dried right out once we stopped using it.
Now that I've seen how you handle the mistakes you come across on the job, I've got a realistic appreciation for the scope of what I should do within the context of the project. I'm planning to do about 80% myself, doing everything from demo of the old mortar bed to building a new curb, installing a liner and drain, pouring the new mortar bed, building in new walls (custom niches!) with proper board and fasteners, and waterproofing w/redgard and higher quality caulk. The actual laying of tile I'm thinking of saving for a pro because that's where the smallest mistakes are most visible and where experienced hands guided by a sharp eye can shine. Several of the neighbors are tradespeople (there's an electrician, pipefitter, HVAC tech, and a specialized concrete engineer all on my block), and they've all got one guy who they've always hired for tiling in of their own houses. Thanks in huge part to what you've shared, I have confidence not only that I can do it, but that I will do it right and well within a tolerable budget. That's not a small thing!
Thank you for the explanation! I understand now. I asked what this was before on another video but then found this! Thank you again!
If you have a niche you'll want to lay your tile out on the floor first, use your spacers to know exact grout lines, then mark that on a straight edge. Centre your grout lines around the niche and this determines where the ledger board goes.
Made sense to me....I am carpenter but have laid tile this way since first day....just made sense to use ledger board from previous construction knowledge
Thank you very much for your time and help
You have a blessing day
Felipe from El Paso tx
I've used 1x2 aluminum used in screen rooms with good results. was able to reuse it a few times as well. dead straight and stiff.
Thanks for this. I did this on my own and thought it was an amateur hack until I saw this vid. I just used it again as I didn’t trust my baseboards as a guide. I don’t know if there is an official ledger board tool, but I found mdf baseboard works great as it seems to usually have a better edge as it’s manufactured.
Upside down and backwards. (Or, inside-out.)
This is very helpful. Thanks!
Don't worry too much about repeating yourself in your videos. Sometimes people need to her it several times to make it stick! Great vidos. Very helpful.
Thanks---------------------------------------------------------------------
I did not understand what you were trying to say. I understand the concept just thought your delivery was confusing. Since I appreciate your effort for carving out time to try and help us learn I subscribed. Don't be offended, was just being honest.
Eliyyah Silva I think it might have helped if he actually did it while explaining it. Or at least use an actual 12” tile as an example. Using a cut 6” tile didn’t make any sense at all in trying to tell you what to do with 12” tile. I didn’t understand a thing either.
This was presented clearly, start to finish in a manner this DIY'er can not only feell confidnece that ihis is something that can be done!
Most helpful to this newbie. Thanks. How would you use leveling clips on the bottom of the row of LFT that sits on the ledger?
Thanks man this is the video I was looking for!
I know you have to get a TON of comments that critique your techniques. They critique your workmanship, your methods etc. All I gotta say about that is..fuck em! (sry about the language..bad habit)
Thank you for taking Valuable time out of your day to break down and record and edit and upload etc your techniques. Because, although they may be second nature to you now, I feel like you sometimes think “I wish I could’ve watched some guy on a video showing me how to do this” before you record your videos.
It prob took a few rough runs before you got a technique down, and watching a video may possibly have cut those “rough runs” down a few, so thank you for helping cut at least a few fails out of my (and I bet quite a few others) projects, and I hope the bastards don’t get you down...sometimes we should keep our thought to ourselves.
This might’ve been one of those times, with my rambling ways lol.
Either way, Thank You...✌🏼
Let me tell you, I have watched a huge number of videos on tiles. I learn mostly from reading the comments. Most of what I do not like is how all the tile jobs are done under perfect conditions. I like these videos because he is for real. He may not have learned from someone, he may not follow the books, but he is a real guy on real jobs. Real.world application is much different than guidelines in a book. It burns me up the way guys throw hissy fits when something is not done to the letter of the law. Methods change, materials change, and the skills of the average pro change. People do ot want.to pay for a guy to spend any extra time on a job that will be torn out in 5 years.
Ledger board is so smart much easier at the end to get your angle so smart you are I started do that a few years ago great job 👍
We have been using this method for years now. After using this method i would never go back to starting off any floor.
RIGHT! Me too
Also stops you working on a floor that’s just been tiled...
Insightful. Love your background music choice
The bottom row in my shower was killing my OCD with the slope. After seeing your video, the light bulb went off. Thank you
LOL... you explained it just fine. Good Video.
Explanation was perfect. My ADD was a problem! 😂
Great video and great music too!!
Man, you make it look too easy. Makes me wonder why my contractor keeps fucking shit up.
allow me, when someone is a real expert they always make it look so easy!
dude trust me it's not easy tile is very unforgiving especially when it comes to tub and shower surrounds get your first run off just a tiny tiny bit and your screwed and if the walls aren't nice and flat and you don't hold your trowel just right you'll be in a living nightmare before you realize it. I've been installing tile and flooring for 15 years you either have the nitch for it or you don't
A perfectly flat setting bed is really good to start tile of of as well.
Great video as always put have to agree with some comments stop the music would rather have you explaining what your doing
You call it "music"?
This is very helpful. Good job. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing the video man thanks for this experience
Excellent Bob.
Extremely helpful
Old school when we drypacked the pan start with the ledger board and set all three walls. When you come back to set row one you don't have to cut each to fit, just run each tile long to the pan. Then drypack the pan then set tiles in the pan. This way you don't have to special cut each row one wall tile to fit.
All very helpful and answering many questions. Thx.
Thanks for providing a visual after your explanation. You explained it very well, however, the visual made everything sink in.
So you added the 1/4 " to the cut marks you made to accommodate for groute line? Thanks for the great information 👍
Very helpful! Made perfect sense! Thanks!
Another great video thank you for the info
Hi, thank you for your videos. Though I am stuck on a few things...
Do you fill the void between floor tile and Durock with anything ? If not, when grouting would the grout not go straight through gap. Also do you caulk where wall tile meets floor? do you leave a gap to accommodate?
Sorry if i have missed the advice on previous videos...
Thanks again. Andy
The void gets tile up to the liner, all tile is grouted...you could caulk where gap is but Redgard is painted in there also so a bit redundant. Once floor tile is set it's grouted and wall tile set....not sure I answered your question, thought it was clear on the video.
czcams.com/video/cNLaNE2h9H8/video.html
That video might help...
THX. I have a question that is sort of unrelated.
I am doing a 9 x 5 bathroom. I had to deal with warped joists, cut out joists, joists that did NOT sit on the center wall and moved as you walked and alternate crowns.
I clamped and glued/screwed the joists over the center wall to make them steady. I sistered the butchered joists and while at it added another to the inside - getting my 1/4 inch per foot at the same time.
Then because of threshold to the next room - I sunk the 3/4 inch plywood in between the joists onto the sistered joists that OI has sloped - giving me a terribly strong floor and no increase in threshold to the next room.
It is nicely sloped to a 48-inch drain. It is terribly uneven over the short-haul but right on the money over the long haul.
I planned to put a finishing layer of 3/4 plywood over it all.
Can I use thin-set over the lower level to support the upper 3/4 inch plywood in those short-haul imperfections?? My thought was to spread the thin-set, and then screw down the upper layer til its level, starting in the middle. I'm ONLY looking for 1/8 - 3/16 fill.
THX again.
Thanks for the vid!!! Good job... done some tile... i will use this next time i do some!!! This is pretty cool
I have a pile of old, out of level spirit levels and unistrut on my van, all different lengths. I use these as my battens (ledger board) which i simply sit on top of bits of timber, brick, anything that's laying around. Use a laser level to get them level and I'm off. try not to use timber as its more often than not bent! Been doing it this way for 30 years and its my quick preferred method to get going. Also here in the UK, not sure if you have them in the us, are 'tile batten stands', same method as mine more or less, just purpose made. Bit pricey though I think.
Good advice, thanks !
Thanks Bob.
This video was done for a shower, correct? Do you need to take 1/4" off the bottom row tile when installing for a tub surround? It seems like for a tub I should leave space for the length of the whole tile at the bottom + grout lines? Thanks, your channel is so helpful!
you doing the explanation just right.... thanks for take the time to do it..i am doing my shower..
What type of thinset are you using over the redguard? Can you use a modified or must you use an unmodified? I know Schluter says you must use unmodified over their water proof membranes.
3rd wensday of every month this guy answers your questions live.
Wednesday
3rd Sun at 6pm est...
But I missed last Sunday so it'll be this Sunday the 28th
Thank you! Perfect explanation!
Like your videos a lot. New subscriber here. Suuuuurrrrr don’t miss Atlanta traffic that you have to put up with though! Drove me insane. ( Roshell , GA )
THANKS!
I’ve never understood the ledger till now, thank you for the vid
Now you are professional!
I usually use the factory edge of 3/4” MDF material. Tends to run more true than natural species. And for an added bonus any ThinSet that happens to come in contact with it does not stick and peel the redguard.
Do you need to consider using a ledger board on a shower pan wall tile install? Seems the shower pan is level.
Never trust a pan! There'll be something that throws your level and bugs you 9 times out of 10
gr8 tip - one of many !
Thanks! Just what I needed
So, do you cut to the inside of the line taking the blade thickness to allow for joints. I think that's what I'm seeing.
Seems like he is not marking the grout thickness on the tile.
Great video! When you are done with the bottom row do you grout or caulk the joint where the tile meets the floor? Thanks!
Grout...caulk
ONLY
if,,NEEDED
Now I understand why you start from the board up and how. Thank you!
You explained it very well.
Thank you.....first timer doing a kitchen backsplash and the counter top isn't level...I wasn't sure how to overcome that and now I know.... ledger board.
VERY helpful. Thank you!
Hi thank you for the video you explained yourself well. It looks very easy that with a straight line. I just have one question the bottom of the tile where it meets the floor does grout go in that seem or do you use caulk ?
There should be a slight gap, about 1/8'' at the bottom...using shims or spacers...then it gets grouted in.
Maybe you could set your video camera on a halogen light stand because I'm getting dizzy watching you! Also music is a loud but your You Tube is awesome and I really appreciate all the insight you have shown us. I've just learned about the ledger. Great Call!!!
So smart. You are a boss!.
nice. i would like to learn this trade
You have flip the tile vertically not horizontally for cuts on bottom......otherwise left side becomes right side or vice versa....you want the left side of tile to remain left side of tile for cuts....after 35yrs in construction I hear ya about explaining stuff, so much easier to do it.....stuff that's self explanatory to me isn't to someone new.....I forget how long I've been doin this and next guy is fresh......layout and principles are same for almost every trade just different materials and applicarions......I am finish carpenter turned into tile, stucco, drywall, roof, concrete, etc guy
Good point I was thinking the same thing! I guess the only reason why you flip the tile is that it's easier to make your marks on the back of the tile instead of the front. Newbee here.
@@deaneng8540 you flip the tile so you can mark it accurately......in construction the less you have to measure the better.....so trades always find ways not to measure if they can....the less I pull out my tape the better off I am,
Wow! OK sir you are the BOSS. Knew it when I saw your first video. Subscribed right away. Really good stuff. Thank you.
Thanks!
Thank you sir.
Question. If the other way of measuring and cutting the bottom took an hour and a half but you could tile the entire day, doesn’t that save more time than using the ledger board and then letting the above layer dry then having to tile the bottom layer?
I think the point is that you can't continue tiling much past the first row when you start with it, because it will need to cure enough to not budge if bumped (Remember this is going to be your reference for the rest of the tile job).
It's a tradeoff between being able to knock out most of the work sooner, or put in a short workday in the middle of the job, then return to knock out the remaining later. Either way, you still have to split up the job over at least a few days, but most beginners or DIYers will likely appreciate the psychological boost and reward seeing quick early progress.
An added bonus is that (speaking from my own DIY experiences) it's nice to get more progress before having to make yet another run to the store to get more _________, so one will often have a more complete shopping list by the time the next parts run happens...
Great video. Can I use a ledger board to install 2 x 6 subway tile? Thanks
Yes
Would this be the same technique used for prefabricated shower pans ? Or just for custom showers , reason being prefab shower bases already have a straight edge on them , wouldn’t making sure the pan is level suffice ? Thus allowing me to start my first row on the very bottom .
Yes if your prefab pan is level which it should be in your floor is level which it should be then there's no sense in doing a ledger board
Well explained!
I need to tile a bathtub enclosure. There is NO single right angle there (old building), and the tub is not level either. I believe I can successfully tackle the job, using the ledger board method. The tile is 6"x6", and I am going to stagger it, so the pattern will be busy enough to keep anybody's attention away from the not-so-level bottom of the first row, and hopefully away from interesting cuts in the corners. Wish me luck, this is my first tiling job.
The layout is one of the most important parts of tiling process. Measure height and width of the space and figure out before hand where the tile will be. Shift left and right or up and down so you end up with the biggest possible cuts top and bottom and left and right. Tiny slivers of tile are very unappealing. You may not be able to start with a full tile at the bottom and end with a full at the top. But a half tile top and bottom (just example) once adjusted will look great.
Nice... Method and explanation. How about an installation of 3X6 subway wall tile where the bottom course is a tile base mold and the change is floor level is 3/4" over 4'. I would imagine you would let the base mold course follow the floor level. Then would you take out the entire 3/4" over the 2nd course OR would you take out a 1/8" per course over the next 6 courses (1/8 X 6 = 3/4)? Yes, its a lot of work to take it out over 6 courses but would it produce a better-looking installation?