Baglama Saz - How to adjust bridge for intonation
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- čas přidán 31. 01. 2020
- This video shows how to adjust your bridge placement on the Baglama Saz so the intonation is correct and your notes are in tune throughout the frets.
The bridge is moveable and can get moved out of place by accident, or arrive on a new Baglama not properly placed.
Hit subscribe and the bell notification to see more tutorials in English on the Baglama Saz.
Background music from this video available here:
akrabu.bandcamp.com/album/scr...
#baglama #saz #bridge - Jak na to + styl
Without your Videos i'd literally not be able to learn this instrument, thank you so much for your work.
My bridge fell off and I thought I'd broken it ahaha
Thanks a lot for the video!!
To calculate the bridge position you should measure from the nut to the octave fret. Now use this lenght from the octave fret to the place where the bridge is supposed to be. You will need to do some adjustments since string thickness may be a factor but this is the simplest way i know.
I see you are tuned to A-G-D, which my Kisa Sap (Short Neck) has always been too. But I do see a lot of Kisa Sap's tuned up a minor third (C-Bb-F) but was a little scared to try to push my old strings up to that. I wondered if maybe there are slightly different scale lengths even within the "short neck" definition or maybe even different string gauge for this higher tuning? I would like to play along with the videos I'm seeing but just not sure if I want to push it...
Hey! I recently bought a saz but it didnt have a bridge. I bought a bridge and it didnt have any holes in them to indicate where the strings would be, could you make a tutorial on how to set up a saz/baglama bridge?
Hola ...como hacer un puente de hueso para el saz cuello largo mide el tiro 87-CM....cual son la medidas del puente ..gracias Maestro...
Thank you for doing those SAZ videos. It is so hard to find any information about this instrument in the internet (that it is not in Turkish). I have problem with tuning my instrument. Once I start to tune it the strings are breaking.. I bought saz strings and now I have only 4 on my saz. Could you tell me what am I doing wrong? Also, can I use different strings for my saz? Like guitar ones?
Thanks, and yes I know your pain, still break strings on occasion when trying different tunings i see in videos that don't bother to tell the string gauge or if they did, it was in Turkish so I couldn't understand it. It sounds to me like you are trying to Tune too high in pitch. Do you have short or long neck baglama? (count the frets if you are not sure) and let me know and I can tell you a safe tuning to start with. I wouldn't recommend guitar strings, they will most likely be too short and the tension could be considerably higher, which could warp or break the instrument. I can recommend you some cheaper strings, just depends on if you need Uzun Sap (long neck) or Kisa Sap (short neck) but found some very decent brands for under 5$ a set.
Happend to me too. Broke my 0.18 mm string 7 times on my uzun sap(long neck) -> has 23 frets I think, wait let me count… yep, think thats standard for uzun sap. So anyways went to the saz shop. Well the guy who runs it broke one too trying to fix it. My problem was that when tuning the newly straped string, shortly before it reaches the right frequency (C, don't know why but mine works on c on the three string bundle for turkish songs that have D on it… havend figured that out yet). He then got it, by wrapping the string twice not once more around the… hole? How do you call the position, where the string is inserted first? You know what I mean. So when you want to gamble once more, try to wrap the string twice; loose string -> create hook at one end -> insert whole string, only having hook sticking out -> one wrap -> insert whole string again -> whole wrap -> insert whole string again -> wrap -> through the hook -> onto whatever you use to plug and tune (-> I use the (forgot the turkish word for it) wierd wooden sticks with flat ends). hope this helps
The problem is that my frets are knocked out of position too. Does anyone sell a fret and bridge position chart?
Are you assuming the frets are in their correct position?
Only trouble with this is the frets are moveable too. How do you know you should adjust the bridge and not the position of the 17th fret? Obviously the bridge is more prone to moving...but with a new saz, especially an inexpensive one that a westerner like me buys over the internet, do I trust that the frets have been positioned well to start with? Also, it would be helpful to show a shot of the fretboard, straight on, so viewers could get a sense if their fret placement looks like yours.
I never had a problem with the fret placement on any of mine, so never had to adjust them. You could use a tuner to check the notes on each fret if you think it's an issue, but I still would set the bridge intonation first, and keep in mind the microtones not in western music can from different regions to what exact tuning they are set to.
HI, i really like your videos here :) Thank you for that! Im currently experimenting with my saz and i changed a bit the position of the frets so that i have more full tones. Now after, while i whould like to play with the traditional position of frets again and i couldnt find anything at all in the internet :/ I thought maybe you can help me with that cause you also really into play around with that instrument. So do you know the original order of tones and semitones etc. on the long neck saz from top to bottom ? Whould be Happy if you can help me out with that! Greetings from Germany
From what I have understand it varies from different parts of the world where the microtonal notes are tuned to. I would suggest just start the placement of the 12 western notes on the fretboard, using a tuner and from there go back to the microtonal notes... This is just a theory off the top of my head but I would imagine that would be the easiest approach.
Thank you for the videos, they´re great!!. One question regarding the strings at the bridge. Do I have to make a subtle incision in the bridge for the strings to stay firm? I ask this because as aI play they sliding one next to each other and almost get one iver the other. Thank you!!
It should have a smal groove already for the string, but if not, that could definitely cause it to slip and move. I would use a very small needle file and do very fine/small cuts and check, easy to remove material, putting it back if you cut too much is a problem
I've got a question, where did you buy this particular saz in the video?
found it used on Ebay, very cheap due to a crack on the body which was easy to fix.
Thanks for the video. My problem is that the lower octave of the triple course flattens quicker than the higher two. (The higher two are fine at the 17th fret but the lower is too flat). I need to be able to adjust this one string without affecting the others. A new set of strings helps a little but still is not perfect. Any ideas on how to fix this?
you need to adjust the bridge for that at an angle, it will fix the intonation for the strings that are off
I have a question. I don't have problems getting to intonate the octaves, but the problem lies in other notes on the neck sound really sour in comparison to other strings. If I play a fifth on the middle string to the low A string, it sounds out of tune despite the string is in tune and intonated for the octave on the 17 th fret. Is it impromper fret placement?
assuming you are not playing one of the microtone notes, then yes I would assume it's the fret placement
Good video, another question on the displacement of the bridge is: When is it a good time to replace the bridge? I noticed that you can buy bridge replacement and when the instrument is new the wooden bridge will slowly carve string dividends and you have to re-tune the instrument. So when is the bridge bad for replacement?
I wouldn't see any reason to replace a bridge unless it was damaged, lost or simply problematic from being cut too deep.
Wheter the the strings are sharp you shouldnt move the bridge
Hello,
Thank you for the video..
But.. my bağlama has no bridge at all .. I'm a beginner and I wonder if it's normal or I've just bought a fake instrument that doesn't work at all!
Normally it should have a bridge, without it he strings are just going to buzz against the neck and body. If you bought it used, it could be the bridge is just missing, as they are not glued into place and can easily come off (or be installed) if the strings are loose. You can send a photo of it to guitar.ramstein (at) gmail and I can probably tell you from there.
@@Guitar101Ramstein yeah.. I was struggling with it till I landed on your video.. i've made a 0.6 cm handmade bridge using Matchsticks lol
And it worked perfectly actually..
Thanks again you saved my instrument 👌👍
@@Cheveuluxe Good to hear I had to do the same for a type of Kamancheh / setar like instrument I got used on an ebay auction that was missing a bridge. Just notched out a piece of pine wood and it did the trick.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
You can hear that from the armonic with half touching the string.. they must be same... but from the begining the place of the bridge doesnt depends on frets... you chose your place before arrenging the frets.. right?
So lets go on.
The bridge is 1/5 , 1/4 or and gold point that means (1-1/1.618)/1.618
1 means the body longness replace it
But work on it too milimetric pay attention.
Paynattention too much on the point where the string breaks off the bridge .. be to milimetric.
And to adjust the frets as modal feelings and the instrument is original on its most folow my explanation..
Firsly take meter and see that the strings break off the bridge from.. from there u ll get the milimetric mesures. And the frets also see where the strings gets free on the frets..
And the down bridge too.
Never forget.
So the empty note if we say that its A se divede string in to 2 and we place the sharp A there the oktave we found right?
Dont forget milimetricly ..
So we divide string into 4 that gives us note D divide in to 3 that gives Note E .. thats the division of the hole string from down bridges left side ( because the string is free on the left neck side) to the up bridges left side it depends onthe angels of the bridges..lets continue = we found
A E D so if you divede A distance..( the hole string lets call it like eg. A/2 or else..
So let me go on
A/9 = B
B/9 =C#
C#/9=D#
D#/9=F
F/9=G
SHARP A/9 =sharp B
Sharp B/9= sharp C#
And also
FLAT Bb = C/8+C
E/9=F#
F#/9=G#
G#/9=SHARP Bb
Sharp Bb/9= sharpc
Sharp C/9 = sharp D
Are these clear?
Lets come to Bb2 and F#2
Just adjust them with your eyes withlut measuring for now .. push them at the distance they have eg.
Bb2 and the b distance
A bit far from the half just feel the notes tempereture how you like it..
I'm certain that you know the subjects, but I think your English translation and explanation are unclear. Could you consult an English speaking friend? Also, I don't know if your measurements are length or frequency, and whether you account for tempered tuning. No shame in having difficulty with translation. I have 0 Turkish.