TRUE Multi Material 3D Printing on the Prusa XL!
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- čas přidán 17. 05. 2024
- Trying multi material 3d printing finally! Flexible printing on the Prusa XL! 3D Printing Nerd Studios is POWERED BY PCBWAY ▶ 3d.pn/pcbway
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‘Joyful 3D printing’ has seemed like an oxymoron to me on so many occasions, but watching videos like this keeps my hope alive.
Your EVA guy.... you know what happened... Big filament got him! :D
Now, this is where the Prusa XL truly shines. There's no other alternative to this on the market right now.
You could do this with the Bambu lab and ams
@@gordodefuego as far as I'm concerned you can't do flexibles with the AMS.
@@elleryfg7853I’ve tried it with tpu from micro center, inland 95A. The hardness is firm enough that it does not bind when being fed, but only tried with small prints under 2~ hours. They don’t ’recommend’ it but totally possible!
@@gordodefuego You really can't.
Tried it with my AMS using micro centers inland 95A tpu, printed 75% of the roll so far in the ams with no issues… I’m only referencing my experience though and others may vary. It is not ‘recommended’ by the manufacturer but totally possible and others have too as well from a quick google search. Possible yes, recommend? No.
12:18 I converted my filament sensors to magnetic repelling or attracting instead of the springs used in the sensors. After the change its really easy to insert ninjaflex 85A through the PTFE tube. There is a prusa forum post called XL filament sensor mod for TPU. You should see it on the first page if there's any interest in doing this on your machine. I also did this to my mk4 nextruder filament sensor.
About the TPU "racing stripe": PrusaSlicer 2.7.2 alpha 2 might have fixed the material bleeding issue. It was a bug in the slicer. You should try the latest beta that just released.
Correct. You may be talking about the "Multi-material segmentation improvements" to prevent Prusa Slicer sporadical crashes on thin walls as well all spilled layers, which on rare occasions could produce artifacts on outer perimeters. I can't tell for sure but your assumption may be right and as you said this is fixed in PrusaSlicer 2.7.2-alpha2.
Michele Moramarco
Prusa Research
@@Prusa3DYes, that was what I was referring to. I'm not 100% sure it will affect this, but probably.
Usually Joel and his table makes other people looks so tiny. This printer now causes the same thing with Jeol. Such a massive printer
Joel, great showcase of multi-material printing! That was exactly my thought when I started to explore multi-material capabilities. Initially, it felt like I had just turned to the next chapter of 3D printing, but then I realised I had just opened a new magical book of endless opportunities. Also, the fact that materials do not stick together is incredibly handy when you want to create smooth surfaces using support.
I’ve been waiting for this one. This is the main reason I’d ever buy a new printer!
I absolutely LOVE my XL. It has run flawlessly without a single issue, prints beautifully, even better than my MK4, which was already amazing, and lets you do so much with multicolor and multi material... It is darn near perfect.
I want... hopefully they release an enclosure soon.
@@krollmond7544 We are working on it. There should be an update soon
@@Prusa3D🤯
Joel, the new studio looks great. I am excited to see what you can do with the XL, I also have the 5 headed monster and would like to see your results
Got the 5 head XL and other than a few growing pains, it has been great. I needed a stand for my target bow. Designed one with TPU where it touches the bow and PETG for the legs. It worked fantastic and now others want them made. Just changing the 3d model parameters and I can make one for any bow with 2 measurements!
I’d really like to see a print with a living hinge printed inside. Think of printing a model of the human skeleton hand but the joints are ninjaflex and the bones are petg. That would be mind blowing!
I found that pouring some IPA around a flexible print and letting it soak for just a bit makes it easier to release it from the build plate
We need to see complex multi color tpu prints with pla supports
Print a benchy and see if it floats with the EVA
Awesome video Joel. I have had great success on my XL when printing TPU with PLA supports. I used the dissolvable filament option in PrusaSlicer with 0.1mm offset. Prusa Support Chat was a great help with this idea.
Thank you for showing what the XL can do.
When I first saw Prusa XL being announced this flex and stiff material mixing idea was giving me same amounts joy as I can see you're experiencing when talking about this technique :) Great experiments, I share your enthusiasm!
It’s SUCH an amazing feeling once it’s printed!
Just started an petg/TPU print on my XL. The possibilities with this machine are great. Nice Video!
King of Prussia, PA? That's about 20 minutes from me.
So with TPU's you really don't need a heated bed. The cooler the bed the less it sticks. However if you print another material that needs to be on the bed you will need higher temps, I find using a bit of glue stick helps to act as a release agent.
Nice thing about TPU it supports a wide range of temperatures and likes to bond making it nice to combine with most materials.
I have had some projects where I needed the TPU to be supported. This creates a problem as most all filaments bond to it. I have found PVA as one of the best support materials for it since it can be washed away with warm water. Makes very clean surfaces.
I also printed a phone holder (for my car) where I used PETG for rigidity and TPU 80A as the surface. This helps to keep it from sliding and absorbs bumps.
This is awesome. I remember printing a PLA base for my steam deck, but I also didn’t want it touching the hard plastic. I ended up printing a single layer of TPU and molding it to the areas the deck would sit. Now with the XL, and what is being shown in the video. My god man. The future!! This is really cool and mind opening to new ideas. Great job!!
You know what’s wild Joel? I remember watching your very first 3D printing video (we got into the hobby more or less the same time) and now you’ve progressed to shooting is a full on warehouse! 😊 never in a million years did I see that happening at the time! Well done.
As for the XL, I’m glad to see that Prusa has seemingly ironed out the initial issues. With the onslaught of competitors coming out with cheaper machines, it’s good to see they can still compete from a technological standpoint point.
With the warped coaster you can heat it from the bottom on a printer bed at 70c for about 10 minutes with a weight on top. Temps vary depending on material used.
Welcome to Joel's Dungeon! 😉
I'm on version two of a custom phone case. I print 4mm in petg and the rest is tpu. The first one lasted a year and a half on test pritlnt settings. This one is on month 4 and solid as a brick.
I even made cutouts to access all the ports, sensors, buttons, stylus and mics on the phone.
To have the tpu and pla stick together you can use a dovetail joint in your modeling between the two material so they would physically stick together
RC tires and rims, printed as a single piece, would be awesome! No more foam center, just set the infill and walls for firmness.
For me PLA-TPU worked well on the XL. I designed a laptop stand for my office laptop with interlocking Flexible pads where the stand where the laptop sits.
I could print with the Recreus Filaflex on my XL, it was difficult to feed through the PTFE tube and I had to open the gear box on the extuder and feed it manually, Make sure Zoffset is correct and reduce speeds for the extremly flexible filaflex.
Another thing you could try on the PrusaSlicer is to play with the Print Settings> Multi Extruders. I use it to print infill parts and supports with old filament and the perimeter with the nice color new filaments
I'm looking forward to buying my 5 extruder Prusa XL and 5 3 kilo capable dryers and building a fridge sized cabinet with venting through the exterior wall for them in my basement.
you should do a video about some of your old 3d printers
One of the things I've been doing is using PLA for supporting PETG prints or visa-versa. You use the "soluble supports" profile but the two plastics just snap apart after they cool.
To make your warped coaster flat again just lay it down on bed heated to like 90 degrees and apply some pressure after it is soaked with heat then let it cooldown naturally with the bed 🙂 I was termoforming knee guards like this only that I was heating PETG and when it got soft I formed it on my knee 😅
I use my J1 IDEX to make replacement oil/gas caps with integrated gaskets. Typically use Polymaker ASA and Fiberlogy TPU. Works great when restoring old small engine tools like chainsaws, trimmers, etc. Just measure the diameter, depth and thread pitch. Adjust the X/Y compensation setting in your slicer to get the perfect thread fit. Have a couple going on 2 years old. Have fun!
Having multi-material capabilities is such a game changer for more than just multi-color/material prints. I used to just use a single color for everything because changing filament on my Ender 3 was such a pain in the arse, these days I have a BBL P1S w/ AMS which is nice for actually making prints with a bit of color variety but also the occational multi-color/material print. The one thing I have been missing is putting TPU in the AMS, there's plenty of parts I want to print in TPU that need supports and this would be perfect. I'll probably wait for an XL Mk2 and make a shelf for it so that I can actually fit it in my apartment lol
Love the new space. Much bigger than I expected.
With that much space, you should think about making a large-scale filament drier/storage unit.
EVA foam filament... you still have that stuff? Nice.
I'd try making something you can have fun throwing at people. Maybe a spiky golf ball?
Nerf darts....?
Awesome...pushing the envelope for 3D printing, again! :)
I love the tests you've run so far. I would love in the future to see more details about multi-material printing. One question in particular would be more detail on the compatibility of different materials, and whether there are tweaks that can be done in slicing to improve the situation, e.g. nudging the print temps a little higher so dissimilar materials bond better.
Another question I have is if and how to manage cooling settings in the slicer when there are different materials being put down for a layer. We already have slicer options to fine-tune cooling according to how large the print is, i.e. how long a given layer takes to print, but multi-material introduces all new issues around cooling rates depending on the cooling fan vs. ambient cooling while the print head is somewhere else, that sort of thing.
Curious to see if you get the Ataraxia Flex PLA to work. I couldn't in my P1P/S.
Joel I had some success printing TPU on my XL using the 'Prusa XL soft TPU cable clip to extruder ' upgrade found on Printables
Rigid Ink used to make a flexible PLA, it was fantastic. Rigid Ink suggested slowing down the print speeds & reducing the retracts, but I found I could print it with normal PLA settings, but I did have to use glue stick on my PEI build plate, just to get the prints off.
I wonder if you could use a sacrificial piece of PETG or PLA with the super rubbery TPU either glued of melted together, where the more ridged filament serves as a sort of "snake" to pull the TPU up through to the extruder.
Joel: regarding the "material bleeding" you experienced in the phone stand, this is an issue with mesh generation that I reported a few weeks ago and has recently been fixed in PrusaSlicer 2.7.2-alpha2. Happy multi material printing!
5:12 It's a true Joel Joy! 😄
Regarding flexibles….
Try this on the PEI: spray a thin layer of Natusan or J&J Mild care baby powder on the build plate and carefully wipe most of it off… print and after cooling, the flexible should come off the plate like a charm. I use it with TPE on my Mini and BL A1… Let me know if it works for you .. and with other materials…..
Remember Joel, there’s no Spool like an Old Spool!
I put à drop of IPA on the build plate to help release tpu. It goes under the print by capilarity and it goes from very hard to take out of the build plate to relatively easy. Hopes it helps
235c ive found to be a sweet spot for my anycubic kobra neo and ender 3 No fan speed is important. Bigger surface area helps when connecting too.
For the EVA foam, maybe a custom VR facial interface? (Depends on what it may off-gas! Some foams aren't suitable for this use.) The "bigscreen beyond" headset has shown that a custom facial interface [i.e., based off a face scan and shaped to the particular user,] can reduce pressure points and make a headset more comfortable, but they're not really available for other headsets; this feels like a niche that home 3d printing might be able to address. Colorfabb Varioshore might also be an option for this.
Did you adjust the idler tension on the Nextruder for TPU? Prusa recommends loosening both screws by 2 full turns.
I saw that, but I didn’t adjust.
We should have more specific info about idler tension for flexible filament on the Nextruder coming soon!
But you are correct, just like on the MK3/S/+ and MINI/+ extruders, having the correct idler tension is vital for success here.
Dominik
Prusa Research
On my XL i had the same issue with particularly soft filaments being bound in the PTFE tube, my issue was causd by the friction in the first filament sensor causing stretch inside the tube. Try removing the PTFE tube from the filament sensor and bypassing it then no additional parts are needed to print super soft filaments.
Something I’ve found that helps a bit with getting tpu off the build plate is to pour some IPA around the print to make a full puddle around it and letting it sit there for a bit before peeling the printed part off. Also you and you videos are awesome. Good luck with the finishing touches on your new place.
This is a great idea, and thank you!
A year ago i recall Cura having TPU interlocking features .. but i haven't seen that since. Have newer slicers abandoned that option?
I print a lot of flexible on textured PEI and have found that to remove it I can squirt some rubbing alcohol under it once I get a small part lifted it and it helps to make removal a lot easier.
Happy Friday and high five to you, Joel!
High five!
I would print a shirt piece for cosplay for emblems like redhood , batman, etc. or gauntlets with paths to insert lights / screens for kids
Joel, I just realized that the clan in Ready Player One is named the "High Five". Kudos for having such a rad tagline.
I've done some IDEX printing with TPU and PLA. I found the two didn't stick well at all without designing in some mechanical interlocking features. I really should try some TPU + PETG and maybe some other combos.
Saw someone blend TPU and PETG, it looked really good. I really want to see TPU with Nylon.
This is great. We're another step closer to having true replicators. If we're talking printable foam, then I'm thinking, custom fit pads for sports, helmets, and possibly custom Nerf-likes.
I make assistive tech with the Ataraxia Art. It bonds wonderfully with normal PLA from multiple brands.
Extellar has an EVA filament made from sugar cane they market as a TPU alternative. Worth checking out maybe. A but pricey though. I mean so is TPU...
That EVA Foam filament is interesting. I wonder how it would work in one of those print in place expanding swords. Hard outer shell but a soft inner "blade".
Remember, foam can be made from EVA, but all EVA is not foam.
Printing all the flexible things.
Great video.🎉
I am currently 3D printing fin cans for model rockets from TPU.
My PLA prints flew great. But cracked if it hits a hard surface, as PLA tends to do.
So I decided to test TPU after accidentally printing a PLA articulated model with TPU.
I now have the bouncy rocket.
Wait that works? That’s awesome!
Would "chilling the Flexable Filament make it stiff enough to feed? Put the filament in the fridge for an hour?
Someone else suggested it and I’ll have to try it.
Dammit, Joel! My pocketbook can't handle an XL! Stop it! 🤣
Setup a lemonade stand with all proceeds going towards an XL :)
I'm printing parts that use Flexible PLA for the perimeters and PLA+ as the Infill material and it works really well.
Ooh that’s good to hear! I’m going to try that!
Joel, would you buy a prusa XL? Im a hobbiest with many printers and want to multicolor print to go from hobby to side hustle
I did buy an XL :)
How well is the adhesion between them?
Man, wish I could get my hands on one of these. The multi tool head system seems to be reliable and I never even considered multi material. I was only thinking multi color before.
Dude same!
I was only thinking of the multi material, I think multi color is really wasteful
Hi. It would be interesting to print a table tennis racket. Multimaterial print with TPU playing surface.
Yeah, I got a 1/3rd roll of DuPont zytel 30% glass fiber left over, and I just can't bring myself to use it because it has been discontinued. But it is wonderful filament.
Okay. I am happy to see more positive feedback on the XL. Good job.
Now, in regards to the printing TPU and PETG on a smooth sheet. I've been printing TPU since my first Prusa MK1 "Original Prusa i3". I always use a cheap hairspray for both types. It is, IMHO, and many other pro printers to be one of the best release agents. I use Aqua Net, about 3 bucks.
Carry on.
Missed you at the Bay Area MAKER Faire last October. Maybe this coming event. We'll be there making kites.
Cheers
Hairspray as an interface layer is a great idea. I’ve done that on the mk3 but just don’t even think about it here!
I do a couple of light dustings, then every two to three prints, I do another coat.
The clean-up is easy. Warm water and dish soap.
12:02: A Harry Phonestand? It's missing the lightning on the top!
Regarding EVA Foam filament, does it foam out like the lightweight PLA? If so, maybe try an actual floating Benchy with it? Something that uses the foam of it to expand the volume to make something super lightweight, while printing a water tight shell of PET on the outside, for instance?
Thinking about the foam filament. I think of foam as a thermal insulator. Perhaps with the multi-filament printer you could print a koozie (beverage insulator) with your name and/or logo imprinted in the side(s).
Print the perfect packaging peanut with Eva foam! ;)
For the ultra-flexible filaments, the only thing I've had success with is to have the material on a good bearing-based spool holder on a shelf directly the printer, no reverse-bowden tube at all. Ultra-flexibles at 1.75mm are even more trouble, so 2.85mm is the way to go if it's down at the 65A level. The springiness of the filament does much the same job as a reverse bowden anyway.
I still need to dial in the MMU2 I bought but never deployed to trick it into using TPU. it can be done by modifying a PLA profile.
Found out that using a little bit of talk powder or baby powder on pei sheet with esun tpu or any flexible filament. Sticks great when its hot and just falls of when cooled down. Would like to hear your thoughts on it.😉
I successfully used PETG as a support interface for a complex PLA print. PLA and PETG will hardly stick together, so if you use PETG as the support interface (just 1 or 2 mm will work fine) for PLA, you can set the support gap from the print to 0, you won't have any filament drooping and the supports will still come off very easily. I suspect you could do the same the other way around, using PLA as a support interface for PETG.
Did this with Eryone PLA and PETG on a Bambu Lab A1, you should test it yourself and see what you think of it.
Storm Trooper Helmet - RIGHT THERE.
I have a small jewelry hammer with interchange heads, I've printed you heads for it and their great. Never mark things and really durable
can you do .2 nozel on one and a .4 on a different one?
the EV foam would make a good thermal insulator, so maybe a helmet on the Prusa XL with carbon fiber something or another for the outer shell, transparent for a visor, and that super soft stuff for the inside cushion. To make it Unique, shape it like a skull or monster or cartoon character or something.
I have 2 mk4's and had issues with printing esun 83a tpe reliably . Kept getting jammed in the extruder gear. The filament path doesn't seem to be constrained enough and even with slowing it way down, it would jump off the gear and get wrapped around the extruder motor gear.
Hi! I would recommend loosening the two spring-loaded idler screws on the top of the nextruder by 1-2 turns. That should help to prevent the TPE from sticking to the drive gear.
We should have more specific info about idler tension for flexible filament on the Nextruder coming soon!
Dominik
Prusa Research
@@Prusa3D I appreciate the advice but I’ve tried that and still had issues with the tpe getting stuck around the extruder gear. I’ve gone back to just printing anything tpe on one of my mk3s printers. It’s a shame that the nextruder is a step backwards for soft filament.
This is cool, but how do you think Co-Prints Chroma system will do with something like this? I backed the project back in December after watching your coverage on it, and got 2 kits that will do 8 filaments each. Really excited for them to start shipping in a few months. Prusa certainly has the advantage in being able to have multiple nozzle sizes as well. Which is honestly a big advantage. If only it wasn't $3500-$4000. Maybe I can justify it someday. lol
Yeeaaahhhh 😎‼️
Joel (or anyone) can you share the type of Recreus filament you used? Been looking for a super flexible filament. Thanks!
I’ll try to get that once back at the studio
@@3DPrintingNerd thanks Joel!
My recommendation for a printer that gives this experience without that cost is LNL tenlog D3 pro. It is an IDEX so it has two heads to do this sort of thing. For $550 it is the best bang for buck printer in general imo. 300x300x350 direct drive linear rails. I use it as a workhorse printer for flexibles.
7:42 Do you have a link for the video referenced here?
Wow, your workshop is bigger than my entire home xD
The best experiment I have done so far is using PETG as supports for PLA on my 5T XL.
That’s very much on my list.
Is the EVA foam filament different from regular EVA filament?
I *believe* so?
I just bought some flexible PLA… I tried a Benchy but it wound up a blobby boat… I have since dried the filament but haven’t had a chance to try again. I also couldn’t get anything to print after I got it all out of the machine (I also tried it in the AMS, which was a huge mistake); it turns out the filament remnant that my P1S would normally purge after cutting it, was completely stuck in the nozzle. Before all that I had tried to heat the nozzle up to 300° C to get any remnants to melt out of it, but nothing came out so I (mistakenly) assumed it was clear; it definitely was not! lol 😂
I’m definitely going to try again with it soon, but I have several more important projects to work on at the moment :)
Holy cow!
You have made prosthetic hands before, try inner “working” rigid and outer flexible ? Maybe a wearable gauntlet switching inside outside materials?
I love this idea!
To get a flexible print of the bed easily, drip some alcohol around then edges and it comes off after a few minutes without the risk of damaging the build plate.
That’s what others have said too!
EVA foam. Print miniatures of what cosplay would print. some armor, sword, helmet. Chest plate... And a half size sample or child size so it does not go to waste. Love to see that one. And hide some of that in case powers that be want to take it away. If it works help the guy get a KICKSTARTER.
Response to EVA question:
EVA foam helmet attachments 💯. Light weight, paintable, awesome workability to really stand-off a helmet. Or a cos-play weapon, like a dagger 🗡️.
@3D Printing Nerd
I’m wondering if this can be done on the Bambu A1 Mini Combo. That Prusa XL is super expensive
You can with PLA and PETG but Bambu says to not use flexibles with the AMS / AMS Lite. You can always try?
I love the idea of multi-material printing, especially for the types of print I do, I just want that technology to be a little more refined before I put the time and money into it. The more I print, the more I want the prints to be the hobby and not the printers.
As far pas the EVA filament us concerned, you really should collab with Bill Duran at Punished Props... The guy has literally written books on "foamsmithing". I look forward to what you guys could accomplish with such a rare material!
I am an A10T owner so insanely frustrated and disillusioned yet still aspiring MMUist, I have several models that would benefit greatly from a lil PLA here, some TPU there, maybe some petg in there too type of thing. Some day... until then dream of an affordable universal MMU and keep single materialing it along lol. Very nice machine, thanks!
A10T is the worse printer I own, came with a dead stepper, and the support st GeeeTech refused to answer my ticket even a single time😪
@@Fly_High_FPV I didn't have that issue, but something was wrong even after a new mixing chamber and thermistors. Some had success, I tried so hard even had my own geeetech rep and they sent me filament to be on a live stream about the A10T. Their engineers couldn't even figure the problem. Then I upgraded to a FB A10T newer marlin build, then sitting in a corner the last few years... spare crappy steppers if nothing else. I'm glaring at it now
@@jdizzforyou yup, more horror stories from Geetech owners....my buddy end up tearing it down and completely rebuilding from scratch to eliminate the proprietary cabling
Wondering if you could make a flexible helmet, with rigid internal support?
I would love to see the EVA foam filament printing something that would normally be made out of EVA foam. For example, cosplayers and furries use EVA foam to make costume head bases, but you can also 3d print those bases. The benefit is that 3d printed bases are easier to make and lighter, but more fragile as they don't have the impact absorption of foam and are brittle. So, I wonder if a foam-based filament could be the perfect middle ground.
I’m hopeful to test it with a cosplayer friend.
@@3DPrintingNerd Cool!